So I open with a question that I've been nursing ever since my first glimpse of the Scottish Parliament building. In this day and age when anything seems to go, what makes a piece of architecture 'good' or 'bad'? How does a building ascend the unassailable ranks of the 'avant-garde,' and avoid being relegated to the plain -ugh-?
The Scottish parliament building has been beleaguered by criticisms ever since it was first unveiled in 2004. Coming to Edinburgh, I've learnt that locals have conferred upon the building a whole constellation of dubious titles. One city guide memorably called it a '400 million pound eyesore.' Ouch! Well I'll let you be the judge:
Admittedly this is one of the nicer glamour shots I managed to find online. If you look closer, you'll notice that rows of bamboo poles line the entrance, the roof and some of the windows- one of the Parliament's more bizzare features. Part of Catalan architect, Enric Miralles' vision to integrate the building with its surroundings, such that it appears to 'grow out of the land'?
In spite of the generally hostile public reception, I was interested to know that the Scottish Parliament has been feted within the architectural community. It's even received several awards! Definitely a structure that has polarized opinion.
Whatever your views on the building are, the Scottish Parliament is a visitor's attraction in its own right. And after popping by yesterday, I would strongly recommend you go not just to gawp at the soaring heights of Miralle's imagination (detractors would say insanity), but to experience what the Parliament itself houses. It's worth remembering that this monumental project is first and foremost, a triumphant symbol of Scottish home rule. The year 1997 saw Westminster agreeing to the creation of a devolved Scottish parliament - the first of its kind since Scotland's union with England in 1707. And today, anybody today can walk into Miralle's building and watch the Scottish Parliament in action, as I did two days ago.
I arrived at the premises around 10.30am and easily got a free timed ticket into the Parliament's debating chamber. I soon learnt that Thursday is the best day to visit as that's when the Parliament is in full session. You can also catch them on Wednesdays as well, but the chamber only meets for half a day then - more importantly, you'll also miss one of the most exciting parts of the parliamentary session (which I'm coming to.)
The public gallery in the debating chamber was relatively empty when I first arrived. The speakers present were debating the issue of community justice centres, from what I could catch. However closer to around 11.30am, swarms of people poured into the gallery, including a whole gaggle of school children. The sudden influx of people was explained when the Presiding Officer announced promptly at 11.40am, the start of Question and Answer time!
My timed ticket expired at 11.40am but it seemed no one was enforcing this. I consequently ended up staying till around just after 12pm, which was great because I managed to catch a little of the First Minister's Question Time - undeniably one of the most entertaining spectacles of the week. It's identical to the Prime Minister's Question Time in the House of Commons: members of parliament take turns to pose questions to the First Minister, Alex Salmond of the Scottish National Party, whilst simultaneously inserting a catty comment or two about his administration. The resulting dialogue is a lively spar with both sides jousting with clever barbs and witty retorts.
MP: ...So that said, my question to the First Minister is: Is he ignorant, or was he lying?
Presiding Officer: We will not have accusations of lying in this Chamber. I ask that you withdraw your statement, sir.
MP: Alright, I'll withdraw that but substitute it with something else. Was the First Minister ignorant... or was he economical with the truth?
Haha somehow that stuck.
If you are interested in gaining entry into the chamber to catch the First Minister's Question Time, it is advisable to book your gallery ticket ahead as it is very popular with the public. Alternatively, parliamentary proceedings are screened in various locations within the building itself. So if you can't get a ticket, you can watch the action on the medium its most suited for: a plasma screen TV.
Finally I have to say that the staff at the Scottish Parliament are one of the friendliest and most helpful I have encountered. They will take the initiative to approach you without prior prompting - whether it be to enquire if you need assistance, or to inform you that they have spare gallery tickets for Question Time. Magnificient people. I was very impressed.
Contentious appearance notwithstanding, I'd say the real debate and fireworks lie inside Miralle's creation itself. So definitely, make the Parliament one of your stops in Edinburgh.
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