A Little Belated...Back Home in Singapore

Well I'm back home in Singapore! It's been almost a month since I returned to the balmy weather back home; and yes, it has been almost a month since I last blogged! It's such a cliche to say this, but time really flies.

So I thought I'd give a quick update about my life since you last heard from me. After all, I have nothing else to do while waiting for my hair to dry before I go to bed (hehe)

1. Volunteering at AWARE: You might recall that I was quite affected by the AWARE saga some time in May. I followed the controversy surrounding this local NGO while in Edinburgh through twitter, facebook and the We-are-AWARE site, to the point where it almost became an obsession. I was elated with the outcome of the leadership tussle within the organization. I did feel (as with many other Singaporeans) that the triumph of the "old guard" was quite a watershed in civil society.

Since coming back, I've signed up as a volunteer with AWARE. I've been helping out now and then with their ongoing Needs Assessment survey amongst members - many of whom have only joined in the last few months as a result of the much hyped-up controversy.

I was happy to attend the Open Space forum held the first weekend after I got back. I met really nice, articulate and smart ladies from all walks of life who discussed pertinent concerns facing Singaporean women today. I also had the opportunity to meet several 'veteran' members of AWARE, some of whom were vocal supporters in the We-are-AWARE camp during the April/May saga - it was rather strange to actually meet the people I'd been hearing so much about from all the media reports; ultimately however, I found them really pleasant and down-to-earth, especially Dana Lam, the current President of AWARE :)

Tomorrow, I'm heading out to Little India as part of a small informal tour organized by AWARE. We're hoping to gain some insight into the lives of migrant workers in Singapore. I'm also supposed to write a short article about the trip itself - really excited!


2. More about AWARE: Transcribing the EGM Part of my volunteer stint at AWARE involves transcribing the taped proceedings of the Extraordinary General Meeting (EGM), held on May 2nd. This was the pivotal meeting which saw the new exco being dealt a shattering blow of no confidence by AWARE members. I was just looking back at my previous posts which bemoaned my inability to attend the EGM in person - how uncanny that I'm now actually able to experience the meeting in all its vividness, its passion, its drama - albeit retrogressively and through film.

In any case it's been an great experience, never mind the occasional mundanity of re-listening to parts of the audio over and over again to catch an indistinct word. I've discovered so many brilliant speeches by AWARE members made during the EGM which were not captured or reported by the news. I'm hoping to complete the transcript by the end of July.


3. Interning at a TV Production Company: It was really quite a stroke of luck that I nabbed this internship. I arrived back in Singapore thinking I might possibly bum away the holidays after being rejected for an internship in Venice. However within a week of my return I suddenly got a call from a local TV company offering me a post as a research intern for the summer. Thanks to NUS Museums for forwarding my resume and contact details! This really was quite a shot out of the blue.

I'm really glad I accepted the job. I've only been working about 3 weeks thus far, but so far it's been a very good experience. I'm currently attached to a documentary project due for release on National Day 2009. The research I've been conducting has been challenging, and is pushing me a fair bit - in a good way though. There have been frustrating moments when I've encountered plenty of dead-ends. However, I find that I'm learning more each day - not just about TV production companies, but also about Singapore itself given how its a documentary about Singapore history. I find increasingly that there are many things about a seemingly familiar locality (even one I call "home" by default) which are new, novel and indeed, very fascinating.

In the past two weeks, I've been asked to do research on a now largely-forgotten sea sporting event which saw seafarers from as far as the Riau Islands and Indonesian archipelago converging in the harbour every year. I've discovered Chinese fire-walking ceremonies in Singapore, and the existence of a tiny South-western island called Pulau Sudong which was once populated by a thriving kampong village - it was completely cleared in the 1980s and is now a live-firing range. Can you believe that? And best of all, I've had the opportunity to view rare archival film footage as part of my job - it is amazing to see such images of ordinary people going about their day-to-day affairs captured in vivid colour and stored for posterity's sake. I'm really excited about this project and I can't wait to see the final product!


4. Scribbling: In between I have also been occupying myself with what I think of as short scribbling stints. I'm back as one of the senior editors for my faculty's journal, which I'm hoping will be launched in the first semester of the new school term (August). Apart from my editorial duties, I've also recently signed up as a volunteer at the NUS Museums. I'm supposed to pen reviews of their latest exhibitions for their online newsletter.

I've just viewed a great exhibit which is actually on-going at the Museum. It showcases the work of 4 students from the Architecture faculty. The exhibit explores how each student/artist has conceptualized an iconic local landmark - the Singapore river. I thought it was really good stuff. In particular, I enjoyed the installation which interpreted the river aurally, through a combination of oral clips and music. I need to sit down over the weekend and start penning this review so I can meet the deadline! Eek.

Right, hair is dry. Am off to bed because it's really late and I need to be in school early tomorrow for some faculty event. Am meeting some freshmen for a kind of Q&A session about school life! Should be exciting :) Talk to you all soon.

Goodbye Edinburgh

Will be leaving for the airport in about 6 hours time. Still wondering if I ought to get some sleep now, or to just stay up so I'll be able to doze off on the plane.

Spent a quiet evening having dinner, before heading off quite spontaneously to Holyrood Park. Walked along the Salisbury Craigs, and watched the sunset. It was simply breath-taking. Afterwards, I lay on the grass for a while just soaking in the cool evening air. Eventually, I pulled myself away and headed back to Pollock Halls.

A fitting end to an amazing exchange. I will really miss Edinburgh - 'tis a wonderful city.

This will probably be my last entry in Edinburgh. Next time you hear from me, I'll be on the other side of the world in Singapore.

Three years ago when I was a freshman at NUS, I never imagined I would actually make it all the way up North to Scotland. But it happened, and I'm glad it did.

Thanks to all who've been following and leaving comments on this blog. I hope you enjoyed reading about my journey in these past 5 months. See you all soon.

Finding Gary

A short note on something else I did this morning, which I didn't mention in the previous post.

I walked toward the general direction of Princes Street around 11am today. I had gone to Tescos to buy some breakfast for Gary (see earlier post) - just some fruit granola bars and orange juice. Nothing fancy.

He had said he would be begging along North Bridge Road this morning. As I made my way through the crush of people however, I saw no sign of him. Stood for a while at the juction of Princes Street, looking around me. However I didn't spot a huddled figure with a bruised left eye anywhere. Gave up and walked back toward George Square in search of some breakfast for myself thinking I would find him later, or give the food away to some other homeless person.

It is a strange feeling. I usually scan the area around Princes Street for a familiar landmark or an interesting shop. This is the first time I've gone there with my eyes fixed somewhere near the ground, searching out an actual person.

Strangely enough as I was walking back, didn't see any homeless people along the Nicolson Street stretch (there usually are). Didn't even see the Big Issue guy outside Tescos. Maybe the heat got to all of them.

I still have the granola bars. I might drink the juice later.

Pre-Departure Notes...Random Thoughts while Walking Around

Am done packing and cleaning out my room!

Most of my neighbours have left already. There are sparse crowds in the dining room these days. Pollock halls is quieter than ever before. It's strange to know that at this moment, I might be the only one left in my corridor.

The sun was unbearably strong today. I never thought I would say this, but the weather was hot enough to beat me back indoors by 2pm!

However, found time to say farewell to some familiar spots in Edinburgh before making a hasty retreat back to Pollock halls - I walked around Nicolson Street, George Square, the Meadows ...and even the school library! (printed out some last minute documents) And as I did my rounds this clear summer day, I couldn't help but picture a shadow of myself in January, bundled up in my thick winter parka, gingerly treading across these now all-too-familiar roads.

Did some last minute souvenir shopping at the Farmer's Market, and along Clerk street. Ever since that disastrous afternoon where I window shopped for souvenirs along the Royal Mile and bought practically nothing, I have decided never to set foot inside another tartan-swathed, bagpipe-bellowing shop ever again. And looking at the crowds thronging the Royal Mile this morning, I think I was wise to steer clear of Heritage of Scotland today.

At the Farmer's market, I picked up some lovely hand-made chocolate products for my former boss. Also purchased a pack of buttery short-bread made in Langholm by a smiling old lady for my research supervisor at NUS. My final stop was at Anteaques to pick up some loose tea (the Edinburgh Blue Lady!), which I managed to get in a nice red tea caddy at 50% off - score!

I like the fact that these gifts were purchased from places which I discovered, and from producers/retailers whom I was able to chat with personally; they all consequently have some kind of interesting 'back story' behind them, which I think is pretty neat.

Pleased with my buys. I just hope they survive the trip back home - the shortbread in particular looks crumbly.

On another note, Summer's really kicking in here in Edinburgh. As I've mentioned, the weather's become 'festive' (ie: hot), and there are bus-loads of tourists coming into the city. Buskers and street stalls have started to appear along the Royal Mile since April, and have practically mushroomed in number this month. And today, I even witnessed the Orange Walk - a procession commemorating the victory of the Protestant William of Orange over King James II in the 17th-century. A woman I spoke to noted derisively that this walk is considered sectarian, and not everyone likes it - have since learnt that the Orange procession also occurs in Northern Ireland, and has been greeted with abuse in some Catholic neighbourhoods.

However sectarian or not, I have to admit it was somewhat exciting to witness the military bands marching in all the way from the Meadows. A great sense of occasion in the air, though I suppose the cause celebrated is rather contentious.

Have about 10 more hours till I leave for the airport. I'm starting to feel a little nostalgic and unwilling to leave. At the same time, I'm pleased with myself for having made it through 5 months on my own :)

It's amazing how much the city has changed since that cold dark wintery night when I teethered precariously along Waverley Bridge to find a cab. And I'm sure in some small way, I've changed along with it.

Second Last Day in Edinburgh

Is it possible to feel so much in just one day?

At 11am, I was making my way to South Queensferry, riding high on a fresh, crisp morning breeze; I was totally psyched and excited about my mini day-trip to Inchcolm Island.

On Inchcolm Island, I found myself surrounded in a oasis of peace and quiet. I ate my packed lunch whilst lounging on a field overlooking the Firth of Forth. A colony of gulls circled the rock-face in front of me.

The late afternoon saw me falling deeper into a state of lazy indolence as the glare of the sun got stronger. I hitched a ride from a very kind stranger to Dalmeny station, where I waited for the 3.50pm train back to Waverley. It was a surreal feeling, waiting alone along a hot, dusty railroad which shimmered weirdly under the sun's rays. The tracks seemed to go on for forever, before dissolving into a pool of searing light (almost mirage-like) at the horizon.

By 5pm, I was gratefully nursing a cup of freshly brewed tea at Anteaques with buttered scones on the side. I drank out of delicate china, and stirred sugar into my tea with an ornate silver tea-spoon. I was surrounded by the strains of opera, and a low murmur of voices, punctuated by the occasional clink of tea cups.

At 7pm, I was changed, refreshed and ready to head out again.

At 7.30pm I found myself in a warm, cosy den at the Waverley Bar where I attended the monthly session of Guid Crack - a local story-telling club. I was delighted and utterly charmed by the various stories told that evening: a little old lady recalled an amazing voyage she undertook across Scandinavia in the days after World war 2 - her memories foraging for food while on the road, and sleeping under the stars were recounted with palpable excitement, as evinced in the tremor of her voice and the animated light in her eyes. Fables from Greenland and Iceland were also told with gusto by the other story-tellers of the night, while everyone joined in to sing Ally Bally, a popular Scottish lullaby.

By 9pm, I was making my way to Cartlon Hill determined to catch the sunset. I felt an inexplicable surge of adrenaline as I ran across Market Street, spying the silhouette of the Scott Monument framed against an already ochre sky. Strangely enough, I felt as if I were rushing desperately against time - racing toward the hill while it was still light...and also perhaps, a response to my impending departure? In any case, I ran up Carlton Hill just to see the sun sink gracefully behind the distant mountains - possibly the last sunset I would ever see in Edinburgh.

As I made my way down Carlton Hill, I bumped into a new visitor to Edinburgh from Thailand. Joe has been in the UK for 2 weeks, and just arrived in Edinburgh today. I chatted with him a little about Singapore art, studying History in NUS and understanding the Scottish accent. I also advised him on how to find Portobello Beach, and gave suggestions about what he could do tomorrow - it is gratifying to know that after 5 months, I'm able to generally guide newcomers to the city. And not too long ago, I was in Joe's position, wondering whether there were any subways in Edinburgh.

At 10pm, I had a rather saddening encounter with Gary, a homeless person who begs along North Bridge road. A cash offering resulted in a long conversation where he relayed his problems to me including a recent attack by a hammer-wielding punk. He's been on the streets for 10 years which I was shocked by. Squatted next to him while chatting, and received quizzical looks from passer-bys; I cannot imagine being the target of such gazes every day for ten years. Gary notes that he's embarassed and has lost all self-confidence, but simply doesn't know how to get out of it.

It is sobering to think that the couple of pounds I spend so easily on a meal makes a world of a difference to people like Gary. He couldn't stop shaking my hand after I offered him money, and that was what initiated the whole conversation. I think he was really desperate to talk to someone and to prove (in his words) that he's a 'good man' who wants to get off the streets, but isn't able to/sure how to. And the worst part is, (and he's uncomfortably right) most well-to-do Edinburghers don't care about people like him.

I'll admit it's hard, but next time you see a homeless person (there are quite a few here), do try talking to them. Every little bit of concern helps.

Surprising Finds Closer to Home...

So after venturing to neighbourhoods/districts further afield earlier this week, I decided to take things easy today. Did a bit more packing, and took a stroll through South Clerk and Clerk Street.

This is the road I've been taking for months now to school, and I've seen it so often that I'm almost sick of it. Yet despite always being in a rush to get to my lectures (late-riser that I am), I've frequently been surprised by the appearance of 'new' shops along this seemingly all-too-familiar route - it's enough for me to slow down and take a closer look.

Of course these stores aren't new. They've been there all along, but are generally overlooked as I walk briskly past them, head down. However every now and then, some of them suddenly come to light thanks to a casual glimpse or head-turn at just the right moment.

My walk today also surfaced more outlets which have managed to remain hidden for a whole 5 months...

1. Engine Shed Cafe, St Leonard's Lane

Okay fine, so this isn't on Clerk Street but it is situated along St Leonard's road which is just parallel to the former! This is also an alternative route I take to school - favoured, because there are less traffic lights and vehicles, and the road is downward sloping (hehe). At the same time, I've always thought it was a bit of a quiet street with not all that much going on for it.

Took a sidestreet today, and found myself on St Leonard's lane. Walked a little further and found The Engine Shed Cafe.


The second floor houses a cheerful little cafe, which used to be linked to a now demolished railway station (hence the industrial-sounding name). It's a large and airy space with high ceilings, and plenty of windows which flood the place with natural sunlight. The Engine shed cafe offers fuss-free self service dining, canteen style - the menu is written on a blackboard next to the serving counter and includes a host of organic and vegetarian dishes including Moroccan vegetable stew with cous-cous, and home-made hommus dips with oatcakes.

One interesting feature about the Engine Shed Cafe is its commitment to hiring staff with learning difficulties. The cafe aims to train and empower these individuals by giving them work experience, and equipping them with practical and transferable skills. I think it's a good concept, and I would encourage you to come with an open mind, plenty of patience and a big smile for the staff!

I had a large bowl of carrot and coconut soup with a fresh roll - an unusual combination but tasted quite good. To top it off, I ordered a chocolate cake which was really nice! They have quite a selection of sweet treats on the counter including raspberry flapjacks and carrot cakes, some of which are vegan-friendly.

In general, you can come here for nice, healthy and simple meals at reasonable prices (paid 3.50pounds for the entire thing). There's also a bakery on the first floor, which produces a selection of breads, some of which are suitable for yeast or wheat free diets. And finally, the Engine Shed also sells a range of tofus and oatcakes! Mm, vegetarian food has never sounded so good.

2. The Himalaya: Charity Shop and Cafe
South Clerk Street

So this ranks as one of the more unusual charity shops I've seen thus far. You're immediately hit by the cloying smell of incense the moment you enter. The front of the store stocks a host of exotic-looking products including Buddhist prayer beads, hand-made jewelry from Tibet, fine silk scarves and Indian-style cushion covers.

But this is not just a place to pick up quirky Asian curios. The Himalaya also appears to be quite a socially and politically conscious enterprise. According to a sign in the shop, the proceeds go toward a variety of charitable causes which help children in the Himalayan region. The shop also features photographs of the Dalai Lama, and sells a variety of 'Free Tibet' t-shirts.

There's also a cosy sort of cafe round the back, and a basement space where various activities are held including yoga and massage workshops. An interesting place definitely worth checking out!

3. Anteaques, Clerk Street

So there are a handful of stores in Edinburgh which specialize in unusual product pairings. Elvis Shakespeare along Leith walk is one, selling second-hand music and books. And now I've found Anteaques which is closer to home!

It looks utterly quaint. A shop that combines teas and antique furniture/curios! I'm already intrigued.

Sadly, Anteaques only opens on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays! (more intriguing) So I haven't managed to go in and have a look around yet. Will pop by tomorrow or the day after, time-willing!


By way of personal reflection, my various new 'discoveries' along the one road in Edinburgh I should be most familiar with has been enlightening. It just goes to show that you can live in a place for a fairly long time, and still be surprised by something new everday. If anything, these past few weeks have taught me to really get off my bum and get out there, and start exploring what's around me.

It's this kind of energy and curiousity which I hope I'll bring back to Singapore. Admittedly, most of my time since growing up has been spent in school, at home or in nearby recreational areas with friends like the mall or the cinema. School holidays usually see me going abroad for vacation with the family; hanging out in the same-ish shopping / eating / drinking districts with friends or just chilling at home. So I guess I can't say confidently that I really know Singapore inside-out.

Edinburgh is about 1/3 the size of Singapore, and I've only just begun to scratch beneath the surface in the past few weeks - and I have to admit, it's only happened because of the amount of free time I have now, and the force with which I'm pushing myself to see things before I leave. And even then, I'm still encountering new things everyday, even in places which I think I've seen enough of.

It really leads me to wonder: at what point does Time stop being an important factor when deciding how well you 'know' a place? Living in Singapore for 21 years, but having a mere fraction of the energy I have now to explore, how much have I left undiscovered in the place I call 'home'?

An Indoorsy Wednesday: Auction Houses and Dance Studios

Did a weird assortment of things on Wednesday, jumping from place to place. Headed off to Broughton Place on a bit of a whim, to catch my first ever art auction!

After that, poked around Valvona and Crolla along Elm Row, a 70-odd year institution set up by Italian immigrants; apparently, this food emporium was so successful that it became the first port of call for waves of other Italian immigrants in the early 20th-century. Today, you can go in and marvel at the floor-to-ceiling shelves which are stocked with an international array of food products, in addition to a tasty looking cheese-counter and wine section! Bought some prettily-packaged tea leaves for my teachers back home - I think a soothing brew will be what they need when pouring over our research papers.

After that, I hopped down for some takeaway fish and chips at the Montgomery fish bar (very friendly and very loud Italian cook; pretty good fish!); went for a dance class at Grassmarket and ended the day with a nice dinner at Pinsheng's place where we had home-cooked food (though I got lazy and just brought some wine :P) and a very intense game of Monopoly where everyone except Jules went spectacularly bankrupt.

Some of the above proved to be rather interesting indoorsy places to wile the time away - wish I had known about them earlier, especially during the winter season! They would have been nice alternatives to staying cooped up in the library or my room, facebooking incessantly. So if ever you're stuck in Edinburgh on a cold, wintery day wondering what to do, you can consider getting yourself down to these places for some nice, indoorsy activities!

1. Lyon and Turnbull, 33 Broughton Place

Okay so this might not be to everyone's taste, but I scoured the web on Tuesday night and realized there was an auction occuring in Edinburgh on Wednesday - I had to go! I've never been to an auction before despite spending a whole week discussing and studying the Art market in my art history class. In addition, the auction in question featured fine jewelry and silver! xD (cue nerdy grin)

Best of all, I called ahead on Wednesday morning, and the friendly lady I spoke to informed me that anyone could come down for the auction even if they weren't intending to buy anything. With those reassurances, I felt emboldened to make my way down to the very sophisticated sounding Lyon and Turnbull, Scotland's oldest firm of auctioneers and appraisers.

Lyon and Turnbull is situated in a nice neoclassical building along a quiet street. The salesroom is the first thing you'll see when you get inside, and it's true that anyone can just walk in, no questions asked. So that I did, feeling rather excited as I took my place between rather genteel-looking ladies of leisure. Some interesting observations I made during my first auction:

1. Seating: There are plush-looking seats arranged in the centre of the room for visitors, but I was surprised to see quite a few people sitting right at the back of the salesroom on the steps! I wondered why they were doing that, until the auction got underway.

There are some benefits to sitting on the steps: from your place at the back of the room, you can observe everyone else and see clearly who's placing the bids - from what I noticed, the auctioning process is extremely rapid. Call me silly but I was expecting bidders to wave their auction cards wildly like they sometimes do in those Hollywood movies. However from what I saw, bidders tend to communicate with the auctioneer using fairly subtle gestures - a slight nod of the head or a discrete flick of the wrist combined with eye contact. It was sometimes hard to see who was bidding from where I sat, and almost impossible to tell if someone on the steps was placing a bid unless I craned my neck right around. So yes, sitting at the back on the stairs - smart move if you want to observe the proceedings better.

2. The Noise: I realize that a lot goes on in an auction, apart from the sale itself. In the salesroom for instance, staff from Lyon and Turnbull are stationed at two rows of tables which flank the sitting area. They are constantly on the phone with clients, giving them real-time updates on the auction, information on the latest bids placed and also placing bids on their behalf. An antique Jewish wedding ring in particular, saw an exciting bidding war waged between 4 phone bidders communicating through their representatives at L&T. The lot, estimated at 1500 - 2000 pounds on the catalogue, was eventually sold for a whooping 15 000pounds to one of the four very persistent bidders! And we never got to find out who it was >.<

Apart from the phone business, there are also quite a few people who mill around checking out the lots, which are displayed on either side of the salesroom - here, another revelation: they don't physically bring the lots up onstage during the auction. If you want to view the items or obtain more information about them, you should either attend a viewing session prior to the auction, or consult the catalogue. Nevertheless, some people will roam around the salesroom just before the auction starts. In addition, there's also a viewing gallery on the second floor which overlooks the salesroom. On Wednesday, the gallery featured several paintings about to be auctioned off at a later date. Consequently, there were a handful of viewers walking about on the second floor, with the occasional curious individual peering over the balustrade to look at us.

So as you can tell, there's a lot of clatter and chatter going on at any one time during an auction. People frequently stand up to move about as well. This makes it rather lively, and there are always interesting observations to be made! Glad I went down for a look see. You can view upcoming auctions at Lyon and Turnbull here!

2. Dance Base, 14 - 16 Grassmarket

This place touts itself as Scotland's National Centre for Dance, and has an amazing line-up of dance programmes. I'm most impressed by their daily selection of 'drop-in' classes - basically, you just turn up on the day itself half an hour before the class you're interested in; make payment, change into comfortable attire and just dance! There's no need for bookings or reservations. Consequently, it's a great way to sample a whole range of classes on offer, with no obligation to continue.

Wednesday's line-up included Ballet for Lunch, Ceilidh dancing, Contact Improvisation, Free-style Contemporary, Hip Hop for Beginners and Pilates! Each class also has a difficulty level assigned to it, so you can make an informed choice based on your fitness levels and how much dance experience you have.

I opted for the Gentle Jazz class (5 pounds, student concession) at 5pm, which is graded at Level 1 (easy-peasy!) and thus suitable for beginners. Really fun stuff! The class was taken by a young-ish lady named Grainne who was so nice and enthusiastic. It wasn't a very popular class - just a handful of people in a huge studio, so it was quite nerve-wracking knowing that I wouldn't be able to hide my mistakes behind a whole crowd of other people! However Grainne was very patient and encouraging, which helped mitigate the self-consciousness. All in all, a good afternoon with little nuggets of jazz set to the soundtrack of Hairspray! Enjoyed it quite a bit! :)

I really recommend going down for a class on those days where you've got nothing else to do except sit at home and mooch around. It's a fun and healthy form of exercise; you get to meet new people; and the selection of classes is quite wide so there's definitely something for everyone, whether you're young, old, a newbie, or a seasoned dancer. Check out their drop-in programme here! The classes have been organized in various categories for easy browsing and selection.

Of Wontons and Brownies

4 months of repetitive dining hall food has put me on a rampage across Edinburgh to find good grub, savoury snacks and delectable desserts at student-friendly prices. Here are a couple more comments on eats around the city.

1. The Lee On, 3 - 5 Bruntsfield Place

After visiting Chop Chop I knew I had to come here if only to compare the Chinese cuisine! At the same time, I also wanted to test an online review I'd come across before which bemoaned the sorry state of East Asian cuisine in Edinburgh.

The Lee On has apparently been serving Cantonese-style dishes for 40 years now! That's a mark of amazing longevity, and I had the opportunity to check this place out on Tuesday.

The shopfront is a distinctive red, with a series of port-holes revealing Chinese-style lanterns hanging from the ceiling inside. An English-language menu displayed on the window also serves to entice hungry travellers inside.

Surprisingly, the main dining area in the restaurant is situated all the way down in the basement. It's a little subterranean network of rooms, all of which are well lit and neatly furnished with (what else?) cheerful red table cloths. I dined in a room which included two other French men sipping red wine, and a group of Scottish regulars discussing Britain's Got Talent over vegetable spring roll starters.

After being handed a menu written in Chinese, I requested to see the English one which had been displayed on the storefront - I already had my eye on a particular dish, and wasn't sure what it would be called in Mandarin. However after some hesitation, the Chinese waitress admitted that the two menus are actually different - apparently the Chinese menu contains dishes aimed at a specifically Chinese clientale. Some of these options are not available on the English menu. This was quite interesting and I told her I would consult both menus before deciding!

Strangely enough however, the dishes on the Chinese menu appeared the pricier of the two. I had expected the reverse to be true, but oh well.

In the end, I submitted to my craving for comfort food and ordered a wonton noodle soup off the Chinese menu. The noodle dishes on the English menu appeared limited, and were mostly of the fried 'chow mein' variety - didn't see any soupy options sadly.


First off this is some pricey noodle dish - the stated price in the menu was about 8pounds if I remember correctly. You can get the same dish for a fraction of that in Singapore - though admittedly not in a restaurant setting. However that said, these wonton noodles were good - about as close as you can get to the ones back home. Nice springy noodles with a good 'bite,' fresh leafy vegetables (yum! The right kind as well.) and best of all, delectable won tons with silky smooth skins. And to Lee On's credit, there were a lot of wontons - I counted at least eight of those pork, chive and mushroom dumplings. It's nice to see a restaurant that doesn't sting on the good stuff!

Other little things made my experience at Lee On a pretty good one: firstly, I was immediately handed a huge pot of Chinese tea the minute I sat down. This turned out to be complimentary, which I felt was pretty generous seeing how I was a solo diner. Strangely enough, I did not notice any pots on the neighbouring tables - hmm.

Secondly, got a pleasant surprise when I received the hand-written bill. For some reason they had knocked off a whole 1.50pound from the meal. I'm not sure why. In any case, I wasn't complaining at all. Perhaps they liked me hehehe.

I think it helps to converse with the predominantly Chinese staff in Mandarin - even inexpertly, like myself. I have a feeling it helps break down barriers and open some doors, if you know what I mean.

One downside about dining in Lee On - as mentioned earlier, most of the seating area is located in the basement. Throughout my meal, I heard thundering footsteps on the wooden staircase as waitresses zipped back and forth, welcoming new guests and showing them down to the tables. A little distracting - definitely not the right place for a quiet date. But otherwise, was pleased overall with The Lee On. The noodles at least have gotten my stamp of approval!

2. Back yet Again! Brownies at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe

The chocolate craving finally hit as I knew it would someday. So it was off to the Fruitmarket Gallery to sample their brownies this afternoon!

It's not the best brownie I've had, but it is still good. The brownie has a thick, slightly crunchy crust ontop, and the rest of it has a chewy, almost fudgy texture. It's my personal preference for brownies to be more moist, however I really enjoyed this one all the same! Nevertheless I think it's hard to top the Fruitmarket cafe's rhubarb tart - it ranks as one of the best sweet treats I've had in a long while!

In any case, after three good experiences here this month, two of which pertained to their lip-smacking desserts, I have nothing but praise for the Fruitmarket gallery. Come here to view the art, browse the bookshop, or just head straight to the cafe for cakes or lunch - their meals look great as well. I'm tempted by the crayfish and avocado salad, and the Seafood platter! Mmmm. So much good food, so little time.

Pre-departure Mundanities: Packing

With just 4 days left in Edinburgh, I decided I ought to start on some packing today. Have gotten along pretty well - have packed about half my clothes (the clean ones). The other half will go through laundry before making their way into my suitcase.

In the meantime have also accumulated a massive amount of used paper which I shall chuck in the recycle bin tomorrow. I don't have a habit of keeping old brochures and lecture notes haha.

Am experiencing a distinct sense of deja vu as I pack. It wasn't too long ago that I was folding the same clothes and placing them in my suitcase back in Singapore.

A mild sense of poignancy as I look through some of my earlier "pre-departure" blog entries in January.

This too, is another pre-departure note I suppose. Only now, I'm preparing to go back home :)

Trip down Morningside: Visiting the Hermitage of Braid and Blackford Hill

Was exceedingly proud of myself today for several reasons:

1. Without the aid of a map, I found my way to Morningside - a fairly posh neighbourhood in Edinburgh which lies outside the boundaries of my city map. Furthermore, I also managed to get directions to the Hermitage of Braid, which lies even further south!

It's in times like these when I really appreciate Edinburghers. They are (with little exception) friendly to the fault, and are ever willing to help strangers on the street. Thanks to the man on Leven street who kindly asked if I needed directions (I must've looked quite lost), and to the lady at the bus stop who actually went onboard a bus to ask the driver what the quickest way to the Hermitage was! Bless her.

Also had a good experience when I digressed and found myself in Christ Church; the friendly warden informed me that the church was closed but turned on the lights in the main nave, so I could see the altar better - and it was indeed, quite a pretty church. I think he would've even let me have had a go at the pipe organ, only I vigorously assured him that I couldn't play a tune to save my life.

2. Managed to successfully reach the summit of Blackford Hill, which is located within the Hermitage itself. It was not a particularly hard climb, however I'm pleased that I reached the top anyway and all on my own two feet!

The summit of Blackford Hill...sadly, that figure off in the distance isn't me (yet. Haha)


Blackford hill is really great - the top of the hill is quite a flat, grassy plateau, save for a large-ish rocky outcrop from which you can get excellent views of Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Craigs and the general city scape. In addition to that, you can enjoy sweet views of the Hermitage itself, which is I think, the most awesome part of the deal because it's simply beautiful. Finally, the Craigmillar Park golf course is also right next to the Hermitage, and you can see the sprawling expanse of the course from the top of Blackford Hill as well.


Arthur's Seat...taken just before I ascended the summit.


View from the summit of Blackford Hill

Really stupendous. You could stay for hours at the summit taking everything in. Once you get bored, there are still plenty of wide open grassy spaces at the top of the hill where you can lounge or entertain yourself. I saw large, extended families walking their dogs at the top of the hill, before settling down for a serious game of football. I imagine you could also pull up a bit of grass and have a picnic with friends.

Best part about Blackford hill is that it's generally quiet and peaceful - not too many people come up here, and those that do are mainly young families or dog-walkers on a placid, leisurely stroll. I didn't see the camera-clickers (apart from myself haha), or scary fitness freaks who crawl the sides of Arthur's Seat.

Blackford hill is highly recommended. The easiest way to ascend it is via the side where the Royal Observatory is situated. There are some wooden, rickety steps which should help you up the first stretch. After that, it's generally quite a gentle walk up - enjoy!

3. Finding and exploring the Hermitage, period. Thanks once again to the guidebook I picked up at the Red Door gallery - it's such a petite read, but it's utterly invaluable! I would have never known about the Hermitage otherwise.


Apart from Blackford Hill, the Hermitage boasts a lovely walking trail through the woods. The pathway hugs the river closely, and if you're lucky, you'll spy dogs happily jumping into the (shallow) water, enthusiastically investigating the rocks on the river bed. On Blackford Hill itself, keep your eyes peeled for various colourful birds and even the occassional elusive brown hare! Furthermore, I thought I spied several white ponies off in the distance...but I can't be sure. You be the judge:

So in all, another great nature and walking spot discovered this week. Most pleased with myself :)

By the Sea: Newhaven Quay and Portobello Beach

We had gorgeous weather yesterday: it was bright if a little cloudy in the morning, but by mid-day the sun had emerged, blazing hot. I've been really pleased with the weather in the past couple of days, and yesterday was really tops. With golden rays of sun streaming in merrily through my otherwise dreary room, I decided I absolutely had to hit the beach.

When I first arrived in early January, 'beach' and 'Scotland' seemed polar opposites and never the twain shall meet. However I have found out that Scotland has its fair share of lovely beaches - my Scottish Lit teacher insists vigorously that the sands of Morar are pure white and absolutely stunning. Sadly, a trip back to the Highlands seems doubtful, so I had to be content with beaches nearer to home...hence, after some quick googling, I decided I would be off to the east of Edinburgh, to Portobello Beach!

1. But not before a small diversion...to Newhaven Quay

One thing I'd forgotten about public buses is that they tend to come less frequently on Sundays compared to weekdays. So sadly, I arrived at the bus-stop only to realize that the next bus to Portobello would come in a very tedious-sounding 40 minutes! In the end, I opted for an earlier bus to Newhaven, (small village next to Leith) thinking I would make my way down to Portobello from there later in the day.

The bus dropped me off somewhere near Newhaven Quay - it was just a short walk up the street. The quay is quite small, with a few good, raised steps and benches facing it. I think it's a nice place to have a sandwich or to sip a coffee whilst gazing at the boats which rock lazily in the water.

I've learnt that Newhaven used to see better days as a bustling port and shipbuilding centre. However it's pretty quiet these days, as I observed when I went - or perhaps that's just Newhaven on a Sunday afternoon?

In any case, I really liked the lighthouse which stands at the edge of the quay - it was built in 1869, and has since fallen into disrepair. I don't think the lighthouse is in use now, but it still remains - evocative of better days in this maritime village perhaps? In any case, a pretty and somewhat romantic feature to contemplate.

Took a stroll along the promenade which is connected to the Quay area. Very nice walk, as long as you don't mind getting a bit wind-swept. It was a clear day so I could see all the way across the Firth of Forth. I think I could even make out the outlines of mountains far off in the distance!

At the same time, it was also somewhat surreal to be flanked on either side by completely different-looking structures - tiny, homely villages across the Firth of Forth toward the left, and modern waterfront condominiums on my immediate right. The latter in particular, would not look out of place at all in Singapore!


Finally made my way to Ocean Terminal shopping centre at Leith. Took a short break before wandering off to find a bus to Portobello...

2. Finally! Arriving at the Beach

Portobello gives out an entirely different vibe from Newhaven. Like the latter, it is also located on the coast of the Firth of Forth. However unlike Newhaven, Portobello gives the impression of a fashionable early 20th-century seaside resort - the kind of place the 'middle classes' would escape to over the weekend for a little bit of sun and sand. There are quaint looking signs along Portobello High Street which direct visitors to the Beach and other leisure facilities in the vicinity.


The beach itself is quite nice. Obviously the Firth of Forth does not have the incomparable beauty of the sparkling Riveria, or its glitzy waterfront glamour. However, I was very impressed by the cleanliness of Portobello despite the number of families with young children running around...some people were even having a barbeque on the beach! Nevertheless, didn't encounter any noticeable debris or rubbish while walking around on the sand - truly remarkable.

And that's one thing Portobello has which the fancy plages in Nice don't - bountiful amounts of lovely, soft tan-coloured sand. Nice's beaches are rocky and generally not very nice to walk or lie on, especially when the pebbles are heated up by the noon-time sun (ouch!) Portobello however, is perfect for a leisurely seaside stroll. You can kick of your shoes and walk about freely, feeling the sand run through your toes...as mentioned earlier, the beach is quite clean so little worries that you'll step on a broken beer bottle or the like.

There are also plenty of benches and rocky ledges along the promenade where you can sit down with an ice-cream or takeaway fish 'n chips (there are eateries along the beach), and just soak in the sun. Really enjoyed just sitting by the beach, reading my book and listening to the sound of the incoming tide. Ah, bliss!

Perfect place to rest, relax and recharge yourself. The beach is popular with families but it's not excessively crowded (well, not yet perhaps). Take a walk down the promenade to find the quieter stretches along the beach. But crowded or not, I'm glad I finally found some sun, sand and surf in Scotland!

Weather Update

Okay, so the weather in Scotland has officially confounded me. Just last week I was moaning about how it would never get warm, but it looks like I'll have to eat my words yet again.

Temperatures in the past few days have climbed to around 16 to 17 degrees celsius. For the first time since I got here, I've been able to walk around in just a light cardigan and not get cold spasms! And for the first time two days ago, I began to crave ice cream.

It's just sad that the weather got so nice just when I'm about to leave :(

Thoughts on Cultural Generalizations

Attended a small party the other week, and left feeling just mildly disturbed. Shall not go into details, but suffice to say I was slightly unsettled by the cultural stereotypes some people I met held about Asia in general. I should qualify that these are all lovely and pleasant people, some of whom are my friends. The "stereotypes" in question were also not ones which were particularly offensive or insulting. However, they do reflect some degree of misinformation or ignorance which I had not expected.

At the same time, couldn't help but be amused by some remarks raised during the little party. These included questions about whether Chinese men are really short ("I hear that whenever they find someone in China who's really tall, they force them to join the basketball team immediately!"), and if Chinese people eat their meals on the floor.

To the first, I assured her that they are not as short as she thinks they are. She was really surprised when I said that 1.70-ish meters is quite average for Singaporean men, and it is not considered exceptionally tall. I also suggested that there might be regional differences in height and build within China itself, and in overseas Chinese communities.

To the second, a post-grad American student in Japanese linguistics noted that it is Japanese people who eat sitting on the floor. However whilst I realize that it is a tradition in Japan to eat sitting down on tatami mats, I was a little uneasy that the party in question (mostly European) might go away with the idea that Japanese people always eat sitting down. I've been to Japan on several occasions and from memory, the restaurants/cafes I visited all had tables, chairs, and Western cutlery depending on the food served.

I feel sometimes there is a tendency to highlight exotic, Orientalized (and frankly, somewhat dated) cultural differences, whilst ignoring the similarities which bind people today. Similarities tend to be taken as the exception, rather than a very real and current product of the increasing interconnectivity between metropolitan communities.

At the same time, I don't think that similarities should simply be explained away using terms like "westernization" or "western hegemony" (as was also the case that night). Such labels can be helpful but only to a certain extent - to me it feels that after a while, they just become simplistic shorthands for complex cultural processes.

Nevertheless no matter how strange I find questions like "do you eat sitting on the floor" etc, it is still interesting to see what kind of images the world has of Asia and Singapore. Furthermore it's worth reminding myself that these questions show a willingness to know more about another culture. They can consequently be good openings for dialogue and greater understanding. I can only hope that I will be able to convey my opinions lucidly and fairly as a representative of that culture, and that the other party is willing to listen with an open mind - sadly not always the case as I realized that night. But that's another story for another time.

Saturday's Food Picks

Edinburgh has been called Scotland's Larder, and in the past few weeks I'm beginning to see why. Here are some tasty treats I sampled today.

1. Returning to the Farmer's Market with Fel this afternoon, I got my hands on a Buffalo Burger. For 3 pounds you get a sizzling patty fresh off the grill. You also have a choice of sauces and relishes, to spice up the burger. It was good - much better than my ostrich burger the last time! Fel had a stoats porridge with belgium chocolate and hazelnut, which was also very nice and comforting.

The market was a lot busier this afternoon compared to last week, when I went in the morning - more people out of bed I imagine! A nice buzz in the air as we strolled through the various stalls. Along the way, we sampled some 'Tablets,' or home-made sweets which were quite delicious - I'm thinking of going back next week to buy some as presents for friends in Singapore.

2. Amazing Rhubarb Tart at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe! I have tried rhubarb pie before, but was never particularly a fan of it. This little gem however, has got me converted.


The tart comes with a small bowl of creme fraiche with ginger stems (pictured above). It's an optional accompaniment that costs just a pound more - however it sounded so unusual, that I just had to try it. And I'm quite glad I did...the crystallized blocks of ginger and creme fraiche actually go well together. Even better, it pairs very well with the rhubarb tart! Yumminess. Washed it down with a nice hot pot of Cranberry and Orange tea.

Have also heard that the Fruitmarket Gallery cafe serves the best brownies in Edinburgh. Shall definitely check it out if I suddenly get struck by a chocolate craving.

Friday's Find: The Union Canal

Another one of Edinburgh's "secrets," tucked away in a quiet corner at Fountainbridge. I made my way down to the Union canal yesterday afternoon after watching a French thriller at the Filmhouse ("Mark of an Angel," by Safy Nebbou. Hm. A little disappointing). Started my canal walk at Edinburgh Quay, and walked down the canal for about half an hour before doubling back home via Polwarth.

The canal is a little marred by the graffiti along the walkway, but I think it still ranks as one of my favourite 'nature retreats' right up there with the Water of Leith. The canal walkway is generally quiet and peaceful, making it a great place to spend a hot, lazy Sunday afternoon. And in spite of the graffiti, the scenery is quite picturesque - at some points, I felt like I was wandering down a rustic village road!

The canal pathway is popular with cyclists which can be a bit annoying if you're a pedestrian - the road is quite narrow at certain points, so always take care you don't get knocked down by an over-zealous cyclist.

If you're up for it, consider a spot of rowing! There's a boathouse situated along the canal, and you can rent a boat there on Sundays. On that note, I noticed that the canal is also frequented by students in the University's boating society and other younger students (around 12 years old) who seem to be in some canoeing society/ course. Fun times.

I didn't finish the entire route, but I'm told that the canal terminates at the Falkirk wheel. So if you're up for it, grab a bike (or boat) one day and whiz down the entire length!! xD

Going Northern Chinese: Chop Chop

Never mind the slightly cheesy name. .Chop Chop on Morrison Street was voted the Best Chinese Restaurant in Scotland (2008). With credentials like that, I would be crazy to give it a miss especially when I'm currently pining for good Asian cuisine. So having finished my exams, I decided to treat myself to a Chinese lunch at Chop Chop!

They do business lunches which go at a very, very reasonable 5.50pound. For that amount, you get a bowl of noodles, two side dishes and a serving of their famous dumplings which are distributed throughout Sainsbury's.


So I've posted two pictures to be fair. The first is a shot of my 2 side dishes (beansprouts, fried potato things) and egg noodle soup. The second picture features the dumplings which came halfway through my meal after I had already plowed through the noodles - hence their rather messy and unphotogenic state.

Well there is no comparison to the Chinese food you get in Singapore. But then again, I really have no right to be a food snob and pontificate about Chinese food in Scotland! After all, I'm sure my friends from mainland China have their own grouses about Sze Chuan and Shanghainese food in Singapore (and indeed, some have expressed them). Likewise, I was surprised when I discovered that "Japanese" food in Singapore is pretty different from the kind you actually get in Japan. So hey, I'm probably not even the best person to judge Chinese/Asian food because the versions we get in Singapore are not necessarily "authentic" either.

So I'll restrict myself to saying that all things considered, Chop Chop serves decent and acceptable Chinese fare. At the same time, don't expect it to be the same as Chinese food you get in Singapore (or China). In all, be prepared for differences and go with an open mind!

The noodles were not too bad in terms of their texture and feel - I really do like my noodles in general. The dish came with a very generous sprinkling of vegetables including diced capsicums (unusual) and Chinese parsley. I wish they had been more generous with the soup though. The egg itself formed a fluffy layer ontop of the noodles and it had some mirin in it I believe - it's done in the style you get when you order Katsu-don from a Japanese restaurant. This was a little odd to me initially. But whatever - Asian is Asian, and I'll accept anything after 5 months of sausages and stews at Pollock halls!

As for the fried dumplings (pork with chives), they were okay. I've had better, but at least the skin was crispy and not soggy. The filling was quite acceptable I felt. The dumplings also came with condiments including vinegar, chilli and garlic...although I must say that it's more common for me and my friends to douse our dumplings in vinegar with strips of ginseng rather than garlic.

The side dishes were so-so in my estimation. The bean sprouts were okay if a little sweet, but the fried potato things (I'm not even sure what they were) were just weird. More like...oily, deep fried crisps. I didn't like it too much. I really cannot think of an equivalent dish back home in Crystal Jade or any other of my favourite Chinese restaurants. Plus it didn't even taste too good, or go with the noodles and dumplings.

On the bright side, had a good experience with the service at Chop Chop. The very earnest waiter advised me on the correct proportions which go into making the perfect dumpling dipping sauce (1 part vinegar, 2 parts soy sauce, garlic, chilli). Again I have to admit that the Chinese food snob in me reared its head - I know how I like my dipping sauce, duh. But the waiter was so friendly that I felt kind of bad for thinking that.

Upon chatting with him, I found out that my waiter hails from Lithuania! Possibly the second Lithuanian I've come across in my life actually! He reckons that there are probably only 100 other Lithuanians in Edinburgh, which is quite a small number. I told him that he should consider himself special which he agreed with in a mock-serious tone. Haha.

So overall I think Chop Chop is good value for above-average Chinese food in Scotland. Time-willing, I will sample the Chinese restaurant on Bruntsfield place as a form of comparison! Now that one has been there for about 40 years I'm told! Sounds promising indeed...my chinese palette always seeks out greener pastures...mmm...

Escaping the City: My Favourite Nature Spots

Was feeling rather depressed on Wednesday after revising for my History paper. This involved reading about a variety of delightful topics including the 14th-century Plague, witchcraft, heresy and failed peasant rebellions.

To get into a more optimistic mood, I took a trip to the Northern part of town, intending to revisit the Water of Leith walkway and possibly making a stop at the Royal Botanical Gardens. Was glad I took a time-out from medieval doom and gloom. Had a very relaxing and enjoying afternoon, getting "in touch" with nature. It's quite amazing to know that these beauty spots in Edinburgh are just a stone's throw away from the main city centre - fairly accessible.

Some highlights of my afternoon:

1. Water of Leith: Dean Village to Stockbridge

An instance where my first impressions were right: the Water of Leith is gorgeous and totally worth a walk. I entered the walkway via Belford Road at Dean village and took the direction toward Leith. Didn't complete the entire route though - I exited somewhere along Saunders Street in Stockbridge.

Nevertheless, it was a very pleasant walk - almost...rejuvenating I would say? The route is peaceful and scenic, leading you past the banks of the River, and up through pathways which are bordered by picturesque residences and interesting structures here and there. Perfect for a contemplative afternoon or when you just need some peace to sort out your thoughts.




Other people gravitate to the Water of Leith as well - joggers, cyclists...and even a man in a business suit who had escaped to the river for a quiet lunch, whilst admiring the fauna along the river bank. He looked so pleased and content munching on his sandwich, that I couldn't help but smile myself.

Altogether a lovely place. There are some benches along the walkway (though not a whole lot) - perfect to sit down, rest your feet and just indulge in a bit of quiet 'me' time.

2. Lunch at Herbies of Edinburgh

Felt a bit peckish after my walk, and randomly headed for the nicest looking place I could find. This turned out to be Herbie of Edinburgh situated along Northwest Circus Place (New Town). Herbie combines a small cafe with a food store selling a variety of attractive produce including olive oils, meats (Iberian ham!), bread, jams and other preserves. It's delicious even to look at.

I ordered a rare roast beef with harissa mayonnaise wrap, priced at 4.95 pounds. The portion isn't very big although it comes with a decent sized salad. However it does taste really good - the beef is thinly sliced and extremely tender. So tender it melts in your mouth. The harissa mayonnaise complements it well.

Nice place to have a bite to eat with your girlfriends, or your mum. The service is polite, if not exactly warm. A tad uppity perhaps.

3. Inverleith Park


Found myself within Inverleith park after lunch. In particular, I was very taken by the lake, and its rather largish and charming population of pure white swans. Beautiful to look at really.

The lake is situated at the trough of a large gently sloping field - I loved this! It's the perfect place to lie down (because you're on a comfortable incline) and just relax. Also, you get a good view of the New Town skyline and the adjacent sports field which, on the day I went, was being used by a men's rugby team for practice. Fantastic place to just unwind with a cold drink in hand.

4. Royal Botanic Gardens

The botanic gardens are situated just next to Inverleith park. It's really pretty and I do recommend you make the trip down. In particular, I liked the 'themed' gardens within the park. I saw one dedicated to alpine flora and fauna, and another to Chinese plant varieties which was quite interesting. The gardens are beautifully landscaped and are a pleasure to behold.
The Alpine garden

The Chinese Garden

The gardens seem to be popular with families and young children, in addition to people around my age. Quite a few visitors opted to lounge around on the grass taking advantage of the sun, and tempting the occassional squirrel with a few well-chosen nuts.

Overall had a great afternoon. The walk was just what I needed to balance out half a day's worth of intensive revision, coupled with ghastly images of Plague victims. I do recommend you go to these places if you're looking for a quick escape away from civilization - this is about as close as you can get to nature within the city centre itself.

A Week of Farewells and My Advice for Visiting Students

Term's officially winding up the following Sunday. A lot people are starting to leave (or have left). Attended various farewell "get-togethers" in the past week with a sense of poignancy.

Dinner at Patricia's flat just before she went back home to Germany, 21st May

Celebrating Chee May's birthday at Kampong Ah Lee, 2 days before she flew to Holland! 18th May.

At Marianne's farewell cocktail party, held at Under The Stairs, 18th May. Zipped here right after cutting Chee May's cake!

Sending Martin off at Vodka Revolution, 16th May. Don't ask about all the empty shot glasses.

As for myself, I'm leaving Edinburgh for Singapore in 8 days. I'm feeling rather ambivalent about the whole thing. On one hand, the prospect of flying off so soon is scary, and I'm starting to wonder if I should've extended my stay just a little longer...

On the other hand, my philosophy has always been that all good things must and should come to an end. They cannot continue indefinitely, if not they wind up becoming draggy and routinized.

I'm also looking forward to see the people (and food) back home, and I'm keen to spend my summer break catching up with friends and re-acquainting myself with the sunny island I call home!

At this juncture, it's inevitable that I'll reflect on my exchange and start to analyze it from start to end. I'm really not the kind of person who will rhapsodize and say that my exchange was fantastic and that there was nothing about it I would change. I really genuinely enjoyed it, but at the same time, it's inevitable that there are several "I-should've-done-that's" and "I-wish-I-had's" at this stage. Several issues come into mind:

1) Choosing a Residence: If you're coming to Edinburgh for exchange, unless you're here in your first semester, I would personally advise against staying in Pollock halls. It's hard to meet people when they're mostly shut up in their rooms - most of the time, I don't see my neighbours, I just hear them (or their music).

Also consider that as a new student arriving in the second semester, it's harder to break into cliques which have already formed in the beginning of the year. Not that people here are unfriendly, but they are less likely to go all out to know you when they have already settled down in their own social groups.

I wish I had opted for a flat because I think the level of interaction would've been better. I would rather know a small handful of flatmates really well and intimately, rather than have many acquaintances in Pollock who are of the "hi," "bye," variety.

One good thing about Pollock halls is the meal plan but consider if you really value eating convenience over and above community and socializing. I was lucky to be with other Singaporean students in Pollock whom I had known beforehand, but if you don't know anyone think about it - what good is a meal plan if you're eating your meals alone in the cafeteria?

As a point of comparison, I went for a 5-week summer programme in Yale last year. The layout of the dorm was excellent as it had a common space on each floor for socializing, and the bedrooms were all organized around the common room - I got to know my 5 dorm-mates there way better in 5 weeks than I have most of neighbours for 5 months here.

So my advice is: opt for the flats. It's cheaper, the location will probably be better, and you'll have a better chance of forging closer friendships.

2) When to come: Well this is less clear-cut for me. One problem about coming in the second semester is that you arrive in the thick of winter. And being so far North, winter lasts for an unusually long time in Edinburgh. This makes going out and exploring the city a bit of a drag - during term time, I spent most of the free periods I had in between classes shut up indoors or going to places I was familiar with. Getting lost in a strange neighbourhood in the wintery cold is not an inviting prospect.

In fact, it's only recently (after Spring break) that I've been really out and about Edinburgh, and discovering all its fascinating nooks and crannies - it's not an exaggeration to say that the weather is a huge deciding factor when venturing out.

At the same time however, coming in the second semester means you get to experience a three-week long spring break, and in my case, 2 examinations spread out over 5 weeks. This is an impossible luxury in Singaporean universities where term time is hectic to put it very mildly.

I would think that most of my fellow students from Singapore would be extremely keen to incorporate some continental tour when on exchange in the UK. If so, it's a good idea to come in the second semester - you have loads more free time on your hands once lessons end in late March. And spring (I feel) is really the nicest time to travel - not too hot, not too cold and flowers will be in bloom. Just perfect :)

But if you have the option, you might want to consider a full-year exchange...although you might have a lot of catching up to do once you're back. The average workload per semester here is the equivalent of 3 courses. Back in NUS, it's 5 and some people choose to do 6 or 7. So bridging this discrepancy might be an issue, especially if you want to graduate on time.

3) Surviving and Enjoying Winter: However even if you do come in the winter like me, I'd advise you not to coop yourself indoors too much even though it's tempting to!

At the same time, I don't encourage you to put yourself at the mercy of the elements in the spirit of 'fun' - especially if you're more used to tropical climes and need time to adjust. In retrospect, I find it a little funny that my friends and I decided to do a whole bunch of outdoorsy things in the bitter cold of January - including the visit to Edinburgh castle, trekking in Roslin and walking around Glasgow.

It's tempting to get the exciting things out of the way as soon as possible, to make time for...other exciting things outside of Scotland/the UK. But after coming close to frostbite in several of our little winter 'jaunts' (Dunfermline and Roslin come to mind), I'd say it's not a bad idea to slow things down. Shift the more outdoor-oriented activities to spring-time - there's really no rush...unless you're talking about winter sports and snow fights.

But apart from that, you might want to use winter to check out nice cafes, pubs, shops, galleries and other indoorsy, chill-out spots. How about visiting a heated outdoor pool for instance? Or curling up in the filmhouse's small, intimate theatres for a good indie flick? Sampling a hot soup at Henderson's little vegetarian empire over at Hanover Street? Sprawling on the gigantic bed at the Brass Monkey pub with a beer in hand? Checking out various live music venues in town?

There are possibilities even in winter - don't let the weather restrict you too much. And at the same time, don't fight it; work with it and plan appropriate activities/ itineries to get the most out of your time.

Okay I hope I don't sound naggy! Will upload more thoughts about leaving and my exchange experience when they come to me!

DONE!

I'm finally done with all my exams!!! I'm so happy and relieved that it's over :)

Other students celebrated today by throwing flour at each other outside the examination hall.

It feels nice to have no commitments or projects on the horizon. Not that I was extremely preoccupied with exams in the past 2 weeks, but they were certainly a niggling worry at the back of my mind. I'm free, free, free!!

Took a rather long walk today to relax and "de-examinify" myself - walked to Lothian Road; caught a film at the filmhouse; had my first Northern Chinese meal here at Morrison Street; strolled down the Union Canal; had a fruit smoothie at Bruntsfield; got lost at Marchmount; got myself back to Pollock 6 hours later! An exhausting end to my day.

Shall consider grabbing dinner (my feet still hurt), and will offload a backlog of blog entries after that. See you world.

Breakin' Conventions, 190509

Took a break from revision and went for Breakin' Convention last night - described by the organizers as an 'international festival of hip hop dance theatre,' Breakin' Convention sees 6 different hip-hop acts touring the UK this month - half are comprised of local performers, and the other 3 are international ones hailing from France, South Korea and the US.

I went mainly because it sounded like it might be interesting - hip hop theatre? That's something new. You don't often see popping and locking in such classy, formal settings. I had to see it for myself.

Pre-performance entertainment occured in the foyer, and included an open stage for local breakdancers to show off their moves. Really entertaining, especially after boys in the audience as young as 8 or 9 joined in the fun!





Presenting El Diaz - one of the break-dancers entertaining the floor before the show started. He's really fit.


Performer and emcee Tony Thrills taking the stage just before the show started proper. He's really good.

A kid getting in on the action. He couldn't have been older than 11!

The show started promptly at 7.30pm, and was emceed by artistic director, Jonzi D and one of the performers, Tony Thrills of Random Aspekts. Overall impressions of the show: wasn't impressed with a couple of the acts, but was totally and stupendously floored by some. Ultimately however, the stereotypes I had involving baggy man-shirts and flashy bling were completely smashed and I came out with a greater appreciation of how versatile hip hop as a dance form can be.

Even if I didn't like all the performances, I have to say it was a very carefully chosen line-up which demonstrated a great diversity of styles. The local act which stood out was Random Aspekts, and its highly entertaining and equally charged dance narrative which was an instant crowd-pleaser. Sin Cru delivered a rather confusing but nevertheless, bold experimental attempt to marry hip hop with modern/contemporary dance and live dialogue - it was hip hop gone avant-garde, and judging by the giggles from the audience, not everyone 'got it' (have to admit, I was a bit at sea too). Nevertheless, Sin Cru received very loud applause at the end. I did not expect to see acts interpreting hip hop as a 'serious' art form, so this was certainly very novel.

The surprises continued as the international acts dominated the second half of the performance. I was a little disappointed with the group from the States, however the other two made the 13 pound ticket worth it.

Salah from France is a.m.a.z.i.n.g. His performance was essentially a combination of stand-up comedy, mime and dance, which drew both laughter and gasps of amazement from the audience. He adopts a persona called 'Gluby' for his performance - some kind of child who talks in a high-pitched voice and banters with the audience. It's highly amusing, but also serves to heighten the impact (or shock) when he suddenly breaks out into dance at various parts of his comic routine.

This is an excerpt from my favourite part of his performance: he's dancing with a tissue (seriously). And no, the video was not sped up at certain parts - he really has incredible movement and body control.

The other big highlight of the night was MyoSung, a troop of dancers all the way from South Korea. Theirs was the longest performance, but was the most impressive in my opinion. The choreography was tight and top-notch - imagine break-dancing infused with elements of ballet and Irish river-dancing, set against a soundtrack which includes John Lenon's "Imagine" and a string-plucked version of Pachelbel's Canon. It was sheer eclectic brilliance, and the dancing itself was phenomenal - hats off to the lads from South Korea! They got a well-deserved standing ovation.

Here's just a small sample of their opening dance - incidently, the Kim Il Jung lookalike (complete with bad hair) in the clip is Mr Zino Seol, their choreographer.

A fantastic evening of entertainment, and one which really showed me the breadth and range of Hip hop onstage. Kudos to Breakin' Convention for really...well...breaking conventions.

Migrant Issues in Edinburgh: A Polish Encounter

One surprise I've had coming to Edinburgh is that I haven't encountered as many Scottish students as I thought I would. If anything, most of my classmates and the people I bump into in Pollock Halls (judging by their accents) are English. There is also a fairly sizeable international population, with many students hailing from Asia.

Despite its relatively small size, Edinburgh is commonly referred to as a global and cosmopolitan city. Curious to know more, I spent my morning yesterday searching online for information on the ethnic composition of Scotland's capital. The most recent population census I could find was dated in 2001, which listed the largest non-White ethnic minorities as Chinese, Indian and Pakistani. Click here to find out a little more.

However my little internet search also threw up scores of news articles in more recent years dealing with the phenomenal influx of Polish migrants into Scotland. It seems immigration numbers have been on the rise ever since Poland joined the EU in 2004.

Even if you're not keeping up with the news, you can definitely feel the Polish presence in Edinburgh, and it's contentious place with (some) Scots - whether it be through the parodic portrayals of Polish migrants at comedy clubs, or the offhand remarks made in guidebooks about nice Polish delis springing up in Leith despite general 'complaints' about immigrants. Skimming through some of these articles yesterday helped confirm and clarify my vague sense of there being a sizeable migrant community viewed in ambivalent terms by the locals.

Some articles I bookmarked can be found here and here. In particular, I like reading the comments posted in response to the articles - even though some of them are not the most coherent or PC, they give a sense of the opinion on the ground which is usually at variance with what's officially reported.

Something intriguing I notice is the frequent distinction drawn between industrious and hardworking Poles, and the 'lazy,' 'idle' Scots who won't do menial jobs - how far are these stereotypes true though? Are they fair and useful distinctions to make, and on what basis do they rest?

So after getting my fill of news, I headed down on impulse to Leith Walk that same afternoon - not for window shopping this time, but to try and find first-hand evidence of the Polish community in Edinburgh. I've previously mentioned how the numerous ethnic eateries in Leith really express Edinburgh's diverse population - so with that in mind, I revisited the area keeping a curious eye out for a specifically Polish presence.

Stepping out of bus 14 on Leith Walk, it didn't take me long to bump into my first few Polish outposts in Edinburgh. Polish supermarkets like Polski Smak and Deli Polonia are not particularly large, but are nevertheless quite visible along the stretch. Had fun poking around both stores (though Deli Polonia is larger and has more things to see) - the sheer range of imported products really makes you feel like you've been transplanted to Warsaw or something. It's almost jarring to realize that Marks and Spencer - bastion of quintessential British-ness - is a mere 15-minute walk away.

I enjoyed just checking out the foodstuff in Deli Polonia - everything from the vats of pickled gherkins, to the sausages to the packets of ready-made pierogi (traditional Slavic dumplings) was quite novel. I broke in my virgin Polish palette with a gigantic poppy-seed roll, purchased at the Deli for just 0.75pence. Not quite my favourite snack I think, but interesting to try.

Ended up with a late lunch at Bigos on Leith walk - named after the national dish of Poland! This was my first time trying Polish food, so I don't have any way of judging if the dishes were 'good,' 'bad' or '(in)authentic.' However it was certainly quite cheap (7 pounds, 2 courses). It was not exactly filling, the main ingredient in both courses being vegetables, however the meal was quite tasty and satisfying. The service was also friendly and exceedingly polite, despite the rather alarming-looking bear skin rug on the wall.

I had a vegetable soup for starters which was nice and warm - perfect, as the weather outside was stormy.


And I also ordered Bigos (a cabbage stew) for my main. The menu advertises this as a sauerkraut stew with various meats mixed in with red wine. However it's really more cabbage than anything else - I was definitely expecting more meat than what was on the plate. However, I generally like sauerkraut, so not too many complaints there. It was pretty tasty as well.


Bigos is a nice, cosy place to curl up over a hot meal. They do other 'traditional' Polish dishes as well, in addition to a large selection of more generic pizzas and snacks.

I'm glad I made the trip down to Leith. Food's always a nice introduction to a different culture, whilst keeping you happy, filled and nourished. It was also nice to glimpse hints of a kind of community spirit in the stores I visited - apart from the food, stacks of free magazines in Polish sit next to the counter of Deli Polonia, presumbly aimed at Polish migrants. Store-owners also chat freely with their customers in Polish, whilst handing them fresh rolls of artisan breads - normal Scottish bread is an abomination to them apparently.

It would certainly be interesting to probe the migrant experience in Edinburgh more deeply. The articles I read about qualified Polish economists and accountants taking up jobs as chamber-maids and chippie shop assistants in Scotland disturbed me a little. It also seems to bear uncomfortable parallels with the situation of some migrant labourers in Singapore.

Perhaps I ought to take a more active interest in migrant welfare and issues when I get home. In the meantime, this has given me a new perspective of Edinburgh; it's not just a 'Scottish' city, but one that is becoming increasingly diverse, and struggling to negotiate that diversity.

On a more personal note, this is a timely reminder for myself that Edinburgh's not just a place for me to enjoy indiscriminately (a temptation when on exchange, very guilty as charged). It's also a society with its own set of problems, and I should at least try and acquaint myself with them having lived here for half a year.