Despite its relatively small size, Edinburgh is commonly referred to as a global and cosmopolitan city. Curious to know more, I spent my morning yesterday searching online for information on the ethnic composition of Scotland's capital. The most recent population census I could find was dated in 2001, which listed the largest non-White ethnic minorities as Chinese, Indian and Pakistani. Click here to find out a little more.
However my little internet search also threw up scores of news articles in more recent years dealing with the phenomenal influx of Polish migrants into Scotland. It seems immigration numbers have been on the rise ever since Poland joined the EU in 2004.
Even if you're not keeping up with the news, you can definitely feel the Polish presence in Edinburgh, and it's contentious place with (some) Scots - whether it be through the parodic portrayals of Polish migrants at comedy clubs, or the offhand remarks made in guidebooks about nice Polish delis springing up in Leith despite general 'complaints' about immigrants. Skimming through some of these articles yesterday helped confirm and clarify my vague sense of there being a sizeable migrant community viewed in ambivalent terms by the locals.
Some articles I bookmarked can be found here and here. In particular, I like reading the comments posted in response to the articles - even though some of them are not the most coherent or PC, they give a sense of the opinion on the ground which is usually at variance with what's officially reported.
Something intriguing I notice is the frequent distinction drawn between industrious and hardworking Poles, and the 'lazy,' 'idle' Scots who won't do menial jobs - how far are these stereotypes true though? Are they fair and useful distinctions to make, and on what basis do they rest?
So after getting my fill of news, I headed down on impulse to Leith Walk that same afternoon - not for window shopping this time, but to try and find first-hand evidence of the Polish community in Edinburgh. I've previously mentioned how the numerous ethnic eateries in Leith really express Edinburgh's diverse population - so with that in mind, I revisited the area keeping a curious eye out for a specifically Polish presence.
Stepping out of bus 14 on Leith Walk, it didn't take me long to bump into my first few Polish outposts in Edinburgh. Polish supermarkets like Polski Smak and Deli Polonia are not particularly large, but are nevertheless quite visible along the stretch. Had fun poking around both stores (though Deli Polonia is larger and has more things to see) - the sheer range of imported products really makes you feel like you've been transplanted to Warsaw or something. It's almost jarring to realize that Marks and Spencer - bastion of quintessential British-ness - is a mere 15-minute walk away.
I enjoyed just checking out the foodstuff in Deli Polonia - everything from the vats of pickled gherkins, to the sausages to the packets of ready-made pierogi (traditional Slavic dumplings) was quite novel. I broke in my virgin Polish palette with a gigantic poppy-seed roll, purchased at the Deli for just 0.75pence. Not quite my favourite snack I think, but interesting to try.
Ended up with a late lunch at Bigos on Leith walk - named after the national dish of Poland! This was my first time trying Polish food, so I don't have any way of judging if the dishes were 'good,' 'bad' or '(in)authentic.' However it was certainly quite cheap (7 pounds, 2 courses). It was not exactly filling, the main ingredient in both courses being vegetables, however the meal was quite tasty and satisfying. The service was also friendly and exceedingly polite, despite the rather alarming-looking bear skin rug on the wall.
I had a vegetable soup for starters which was nice and warm - perfect, as the weather outside was stormy.
And I also ordered Bigos (a cabbage stew) for my main. The menu advertises this as a sauerkraut stew with various meats mixed in with red wine. However it's really more cabbage than anything else - I was definitely expecting more meat than what was on the plate. However, I generally like sauerkraut, so not too many complaints there. It was pretty tasty as well.
Bigos is a nice, cosy place to curl up over a hot meal. They do other 'traditional' Polish dishes as well, in addition to a large selection of more generic pizzas and snacks.
I'm glad I made the trip down to Leith. Food's always a nice introduction to a different culture, whilst keeping you happy, filled and nourished. It was also nice to glimpse hints of a kind of community spirit in the stores I visited - apart from the food, stacks of free magazines in Polish sit next to the counter of Deli Polonia, presumbly aimed at Polish migrants. Store-owners also chat freely with their customers in Polish, whilst handing them fresh rolls of artisan breads - normal Scottish bread is an abomination to them apparently.
It would certainly be interesting to probe the migrant experience in Edinburgh more deeply. The articles I read about qualified Polish economists and accountants taking up jobs as chamber-maids and chippie shop assistants in Scotland disturbed me a little. It also seems to bear uncomfortable parallels with the situation of some migrant labourers in Singapore.
Perhaps I ought to take a more active interest in migrant welfare and issues when I get home. In the meantime, this has given me a new perspective of Edinburgh; it's not just a 'Scottish' city, but one that is becoming increasingly diverse, and struggling to negotiate that diversity.
On a more personal note, this is a timely reminder for myself that Edinburgh's not just a place for me to enjoy indiscriminately (a temptation when on exchange, very guilty as charged). It's also a society with its own set of problems, and I should at least try and acquaint myself with them having lived here for half a year.
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