By the Sea: Newhaven Quay and Portobello Beach

We had gorgeous weather yesterday: it was bright if a little cloudy in the morning, but by mid-day the sun had emerged, blazing hot. I've been really pleased with the weather in the past couple of days, and yesterday was really tops. With golden rays of sun streaming in merrily through my otherwise dreary room, I decided I absolutely had to hit the beach.

When I first arrived in early January, 'beach' and 'Scotland' seemed polar opposites and never the twain shall meet. However I have found out that Scotland has its fair share of lovely beaches - my Scottish Lit teacher insists vigorously that the sands of Morar are pure white and absolutely stunning. Sadly, a trip back to the Highlands seems doubtful, so I had to be content with beaches nearer to home...hence, after some quick googling, I decided I would be off to the east of Edinburgh, to Portobello Beach!

1. But not before a small diversion...to Newhaven Quay

One thing I'd forgotten about public buses is that they tend to come less frequently on Sundays compared to weekdays. So sadly, I arrived at the bus-stop only to realize that the next bus to Portobello would come in a very tedious-sounding 40 minutes! In the end, I opted for an earlier bus to Newhaven, (small village next to Leith) thinking I would make my way down to Portobello from there later in the day.

The bus dropped me off somewhere near Newhaven Quay - it was just a short walk up the street. The quay is quite small, with a few good, raised steps and benches facing it. I think it's a nice place to have a sandwich or to sip a coffee whilst gazing at the boats which rock lazily in the water.

I've learnt that Newhaven used to see better days as a bustling port and shipbuilding centre. However it's pretty quiet these days, as I observed when I went - or perhaps that's just Newhaven on a Sunday afternoon?

In any case, I really liked the lighthouse which stands at the edge of the quay - it was built in 1869, and has since fallen into disrepair. I don't think the lighthouse is in use now, but it still remains - evocative of better days in this maritime village perhaps? In any case, a pretty and somewhat romantic feature to contemplate.

Took a stroll along the promenade which is connected to the Quay area. Very nice walk, as long as you don't mind getting a bit wind-swept. It was a clear day so I could see all the way across the Firth of Forth. I think I could even make out the outlines of mountains far off in the distance!

At the same time, it was also somewhat surreal to be flanked on either side by completely different-looking structures - tiny, homely villages across the Firth of Forth toward the left, and modern waterfront condominiums on my immediate right. The latter in particular, would not look out of place at all in Singapore!


Finally made my way to Ocean Terminal shopping centre at Leith. Took a short break before wandering off to find a bus to Portobello...

2. Finally! Arriving at the Beach

Portobello gives out an entirely different vibe from Newhaven. Like the latter, it is also located on the coast of the Firth of Forth. However unlike Newhaven, Portobello gives the impression of a fashionable early 20th-century seaside resort - the kind of place the 'middle classes' would escape to over the weekend for a little bit of sun and sand. There are quaint looking signs along Portobello High Street which direct visitors to the Beach and other leisure facilities in the vicinity.


The beach itself is quite nice. Obviously the Firth of Forth does not have the incomparable beauty of the sparkling Riveria, or its glitzy waterfront glamour. However, I was very impressed by the cleanliness of Portobello despite the number of families with young children running around...some people were even having a barbeque on the beach! Nevertheless, didn't encounter any noticeable debris or rubbish while walking around on the sand - truly remarkable.

And that's one thing Portobello has which the fancy plages in Nice don't - bountiful amounts of lovely, soft tan-coloured sand. Nice's beaches are rocky and generally not very nice to walk or lie on, especially when the pebbles are heated up by the noon-time sun (ouch!) Portobello however, is perfect for a leisurely seaside stroll. You can kick of your shoes and walk about freely, feeling the sand run through your toes...as mentioned earlier, the beach is quite clean so little worries that you'll step on a broken beer bottle or the like.

There are also plenty of benches and rocky ledges along the promenade where you can sit down with an ice-cream or takeaway fish 'n chips (there are eateries along the beach), and just soak in the sun. Really enjoyed just sitting by the beach, reading my book and listening to the sound of the incoming tide. Ah, bliss!

Perfect place to rest, relax and recharge yourself. The beach is popular with families but it's not excessively crowded (well, not yet perhaps). Take a walk down the promenade to find the quieter stretches along the beach. But crowded or not, I'm glad I finally found some sun, sand and surf in Scotland!