Saturday's Food Picks

Edinburgh has been called Scotland's Larder, and in the past few weeks I'm beginning to see why. Here are some tasty treats I sampled today.

1. Returning to the Farmer's Market with Fel this afternoon, I got my hands on a Buffalo Burger. For 3 pounds you get a sizzling patty fresh off the grill. You also have a choice of sauces and relishes, to spice up the burger. It was good - much better than my ostrich burger the last time! Fel had a stoats porridge with belgium chocolate and hazelnut, which was also very nice and comforting.

The market was a lot busier this afternoon compared to last week, when I went in the morning - more people out of bed I imagine! A nice buzz in the air as we strolled through the various stalls. Along the way, we sampled some 'Tablets,' or home-made sweets which were quite delicious - I'm thinking of going back next week to buy some as presents for friends in Singapore.

2. Amazing Rhubarb Tart at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe! I have tried rhubarb pie before, but was never particularly a fan of it. This little gem however, has got me converted.


The tart comes with a small bowl of creme fraiche with ginger stems (pictured above). It's an optional accompaniment that costs just a pound more - however it sounded so unusual, that I just had to try it. And I'm quite glad I did...the crystallized blocks of ginger and creme fraiche actually go well together. Even better, it pairs very well with the rhubarb tart! Yumminess. Washed it down with a nice hot pot of Cranberry and Orange tea.

Have also heard that the Fruitmarket Gallery cafe serves the best brownies in Edinburgh. Shall definitely check it out if I suddenly get struck by a chocolate craving.

Another Secret: Edinburgh Farmer's Market

In London, street markets selling anything from antiques to clothing to agricultural produce are almost de rigeur. The Portobello and Camden markets are famous tourist pit-stops in their own right, and see thronging crowds on weekends.

So that got me thinking: surely Edinburgh must have some markets of its own?

A quick search on google earlier this week threw up the Edinburgh Farmer's Market which occurs (impressively), every Saturday from 9am - 2pm. Local farmers converge at Castle Terrace, under the imposing shadow of the Edinburgh castle selling nothing but the freshest and finest specimens of Scottish produce.

Forcing myself out of bed at 9am (early for me), I took a brisk walk to the Castle Terrace. Upon arrival, I spied a row of cheerful umbrella-ed stalls, each bearing the name of the farmer/producer and the wares on sale.

This is an excellent place to pick up fresh groceries whilst ensuring your money goes right back to local producers. Some products you can get at the market include organic beers, free-range eggs, fruits and veges, artisan breads and chocolates, honey, a selection of meats, and even fresh seafood from the Isle of Arran. The stallholders are lovely, and there's a great camaraderie between them and the regulars who come armed with large grocery bags and little shopping trolleys.

The market is not very large, but you can just take your time to browse and soak in the atmosphere. A tip: come on an empty stomach. There's tons of food available at the market, and most of it is freshly cooked or prepared in front of you.

I picked up an Ostrich meat burger, simply because it sounded so exotic! Not too bad but a bit dry and not as juicy as I thought. I would recommend you try out the Aberdeen Angus Burger if it's available, simply because it looked and smelt so good. If however, you're still inclined toward the unconventional, try the Buffalo meat burger. It's whipped up personally by a rather photogenic young farmer from West Fife - who says farmers have to look old and weather-beaten? Hehe.

Also finally managed to try Stoats Porridge! The mobile Stoats Porridge Bar sets up shop at the Farmer's Market, and by the looks of it, is a smash hit with visitors. They do porridge with a variety of toppings, ranging from just plain brown sugar, to a selection of choice fruits and maple syrup. The most popular recipe is the 'Cranachan' which is porridge accompanied by honey, single cream, toasted sweet oats and topped with fresh Scottish raspberries.

The Cranachan, 3 pounds

This is pure comfort food - warm, humble and totally homely. Something your granny would've served you in bed on those cold dreary days.

So whether you're a foodie, or into supporting local farmers, or just curious, I recommend you definitely check out the farmer's market on a Saturday. Go early before all the good stuff is gone, grab a tasty burger, a soup or a rhubarb pie, and munch slowly as you do your rounds. It's worth waking up a little early for!

Leith Walk and Broughton Street: Soul Food

Walked around the edge of the New Town today, focusing on Broughton Street and Leith Walk. So many things to see! So many things to talk about. It makes sense however, to start with an issue of primal concern: Food.

There are tons of ethnic food restaurants along Leith Walk including Bangladeshi, Polish, Cantonese, Punjabi and Italian eateries. Take your pick. Broughton street also plays host to a wide range of pubs, cafes and delis including Artisan Roast, which I hear has one of the best coffees in town, and Urban Angel, which is apparently the place for brunch in the New Town.

I was intending to head down to The Fish Bar at Montgomery Street which reportedly has one of the best fish & chips in Edinburgh - you do not argue with the recommendation of a cab driver. Eventually however, I took a tiny detour off Broughton Street to Barony Street, after spying this:



The Broughton Deli and Cafe is tucked away in a quiet corner. Press clippings are pasted on the window, and practically ooze praise for the deli's selection of crepes and freshly made foods. There was however, another motivation to enter: the nice lady I'd met yesterday at the Red Door Gallery mentioned that she worked here part-time, and urged me to come. "It's really as organic as you can get!" She gushed whilst handing me my Local's Guide to Edinburgh.

So since it was right in front of me - why not?

The deli has a take-away and sit-down menu. In addition to sandwiches and soups, they do sweet and savoury crepes. The latter are stuffed with a selection of deli fillings which look really mouth-watering. In the end, I decided to get something sweet, and settled for one of their freshly baked cakes. A Victorian Sponge with Strawberries and Vanilla cream it was.

I wish I had taken a picture of the cake before I tucked into it, because it was simply the most amazing strawberry cake I've ever had! Sweet strawberries with a little bit of a sharp tanginess to balance out the slight heaviness of the cream. And the cake itself was good - light and fluffy. Perfect dessert to go with a pot of hot tea!

The cafe's sitting area is quite small so you might want to come early to grab a place. It's a cheerful set-up overall - a bright, airy room with high ceilings and smallish tables covered in red polka-dotted table cloths. The atmosphere is matched by friendly and chirpy service. Great for an afternoon out with your girlfriends. I highly recommend!


If on the otherhand, you're on the look out for groceries, consider popping into Real Foods along Broughton Street. They are a supermarket specializing in organic, fair-trade and vegetarian foods, in addition to other products.


It's nice to just browse through the shelves even if you aren't sure of what to buy. They do a lot of organic chocolate including a large shelf of colourfully wrapped slabs from Green & Blacks. Mmmm. I was also very intrigued by their 'Nomato' Ketchup which is ketchup made without tomatoes!

Real Foods also stocks non-edibles including eco-friendly washing liquids, and an extensive selection of Burt's Bees products which I was so pleased to see! I don't really recall seeing any stores in Singapore which have the Burt's Bees range...I've only ever managed to find the lip balm, but perhaps I wasn't looking hard enough...

So to wrap up, I shall slyly throw in another pick, but this one is related not to food, but quite a different primal urge.


How refreshing to see a sex shop which doesn't alienate women but welcomes them with scented votive candles to boot. Organic Pleasures is dedicated solely to women and their, ah, orgasmic needs! Heehee. It's not hidden away by tinted windows, nor is it plastered with sleazy images. The interior of the shop is tasteful and refined, almost a little muted. Anybody can freely walk in and the first thing you'll see are rather innocuous bath products including baby massage oils (for new mothers). They also sell corsets, lingerie, accessories like silk scarves and slips, and a line of female sex toys.

What is most intriguing however, is their shop's philosophy which affirms a dedication to providing good "eco-luxe" products which are "totally organic" and "non-toxic." I had no idea such products could be toxic or in any way dangerous. And I also had no idea that the whole 'organic' craze in shopping had spread right up to erotic shops! Well, you learn something new everyday I suppose.

If you've ever been curious about what lurks within the depths of those shady XXX shops which seem dominated by men or conjoined couples, Organic Pleasures will be a nice change. You can browse openly and freely, without furtively looking over your shoulder. The staff are also friendly and quietly unobtrusive. Makes for an entertaining browse!

Food Finds: Curry in a Mosque & Desserts at a Bohemian Cafe

I find it a little surprising that I managed to spend 4 hours in the library today finishing some readings for my Medieval History course. This harkens back to term time, during that dreaded 4-hour interval between my classes. I mostly passed the time cloistered up in the library because the winter weather killed any desire to venture out.

I sandwiched two eating trips between my 4-hour reading marathon. I'm determined to put to the test my current bland perception of food in the UK (outside of London). I'm happy to say that a possible conversion *might* be underway...but we'll see what the following days /weeks bring!

In the meantime, very happy to have sussed out two, relatively inexpensive food stops just a stone's throw away from campus.

First up was lunch at The Mosque Kitchen.

Yes it is literally a mosque, and you can't miss the towering minaret if you're walking along or around Potterow. Don't feel intimidated or uncomfortable if you're not there to worship; just head to the back of the compound and you'll find a cavernous tented dining area. There is a menu of halal curries, kebabs and vegetarian dishes for as low as 3 quid which is really a bargain in Edinburgh.

I ordered a chicken curry rice for 3 pound 50. You get a pretty substantial mound of steaming, fragrant basmati rice and a generous dollop of chicken curry. This meal also lasted me all the way to dinner-time, and even then I was still a little full - they aren't stingy with the rice.

As for the gravy, it is quite mild - spice fans may be disappointed. However the chicken meat is moist, juicy and satisfying. It is also possible to combine the meat with other side dishes I believe, and still fork out about 5 pounds which is relatively good value.

Of course you have to realize that the plastic cutlery, self-service and no-frills dining (outdoor seating, communal tables, plastic chairs) also contribute to the low price. But nevertheless still worth a trip I feel, if you want decent, reasonably-priced food. They also have a vegetarian menu for those interested.

Cheap and good - it's no wonder I saw so many students patronizing the place. But they weren't the only ones either!

So do come down sometime if you're on the look-out for budget-friendly and healthy-sized portions. All your money also goes straight to the Mosque and its various religious/community activities. Doesn't that make you feel good?

Balanced my savoury encounter at the Mosque Kitchen for something sweeter and lighter at The Forest which online 'zines like The Skinny had been raving about. The Forest is located along Bristo Square.

This is certainly one of the most unusual places I've stepped into. The cafe is a dingy-looking but kooky hideaway full of mismatched, second-hand tables and chairs. Food-wise, I just ordered a fruitjuice and brownie (still full of curry) which was not fantastic. The brownie was a bit hard and sweet in a very cloying sort of way. However their regular dishes might be better - they do a wide range of vegetarian meals.

What stands out about this place though, is really...the place itself. The Forest is a non-profit set-up run by volunteers - which might explain the average food. It not only houses a cafe at the back with a stage for live gigs, but also a surprising amount of space in the front, encompassing two whole rooms - one seems to be an extension of the cafe with an assortment of squashy little sofas huddled around small tables. The other room is currently an empty, white-washed space which appears to have multiple uses based on the owner's whims - workshops and exhibitions have been held at The Forest before so I'm assuming that's what the extra space is utilized as.

There are also plenty of random flyers stuck up on the walls advertising everything, including flats for rent. The Forest also seems to have a very liberal policy toward supporting local musicians - any band wishing to play at The Forest can just call ahead to book. Aspiring artists are also allowed to sell their CDs and distribute promotional material to the crowd. A list of gigs for the week is written on a chalkboard within the cafe area. Apart from live bands however the programme also includes other things like film screenings, and the rather unusual sounding "drunken" jazz/opera.

The people themselves also give The Forest a rather eccentric, quirky vibe. Sitting in the cafe, I got the distinct air of being temporally displaced to an earlier era as androgynous hippy-like characters sporting guitars sailed in and were greeted by effusive hugs from the smiling staff. The music was momentarily paused as a proud member of staff announced that 'David,' who had just arrived, had successfully completed his final year exams - news that was greeted by loud applause from the cafe-goers.

You get a very laidback, chilled out vibe at The Forest - anything seems to go here. Just sit back, relax in their poofy sofas, and enjoy the (rather loud) music. You could probably vegetate there for hours, and never feel pressured to leave or order anything. Definitely worth checking out just for the unusual atmosphere.

Things to Sink Your Teeth Into (Quite Literally)

1. Sink your Teeth into...Dental Care in Edinburgh

So if you're coming to Edinburgh and planning to hang around for a bit like myself, do the right thing and get registered for healthcare services.

This might be quite intuitive for some, but coming from Singapore where I'm used to waltzing into the 24-hour clinic at Clementi and expecting next-to-immediate attention, this was a minor (okay, a major) annoyance.

Getting registered at your nearest GP or dentist at the earliest possible date saves you precious waiting time when you have an emergency.

If you're a future student coming to the University of Edinburgh, make the Richard Verney Health Centre on campus one of your first stops - persist and double-check if the counter staff say registering is unnecessary (as they did to me in January). It is necessary as I found out 4 months later.

On the bright side, not registering in this case isn't such a big deal - they'll simply ask you to come about half an hour before your appointment to fill in your details. However, what's a bummer is if you're in need of dental care - the University does not have any dental services on campus so you'll have to scout around for the nearest dental clinic near you.

So the long and short of it was that I experienced major tooth-achage in my wisdom tooth on the eve of my Spain trip. I survived the holiday taking Ibruprofen and gargling with salt water. By the time I returned to Edinburgh it had subsided but I thought it would be a good idea to get it checked out just in case. So I called up the nearest dental clinic, which promptly informed me that I would have to be registered. Shockingly, the earliest appointment they could arrange was in a month's time, unless my case constituted an 'emergency' (ie: serious pain)

However she kindly directed me to Chalmers Dental Centre on 3 Chalmers Street (near Tollcross), which is a clinic for individuals who are not registered with any dental practice, and who might need immediate attention.

If you do end up making a visit to Chalmers Dental Centre, here are some things to note:

i. Go as early as you can. I arrived at the clinic around 10.20am and filled in some forms about my medical history. Half an hour later, I was attended to by a nurse who recorded my symptoms and assessed my situation, before referring me to one of the clinic's dentists. The wait-time in between the nurse and the dentist was at least an hour. It's first come first served, so obviously the earlier you go, the further in front of the line you'll be. And yes, the clinic is busy.

ii. Service: Once you finally get to meet the dentist, the service is generally friendly and professional. I felt like I was in fairly safe hands during the entire procedure - though that might've been helped by the anaesthetic injections which numbed me to any pain!

The gum area around my wisdom tooth was cleaned to prevent further incidences of local infection. Some anti-bacterial gel was also applied to the affected area. The entire procedure cost just 6 pounds.

iii. Patient after-care: Another difference between the UK and Singapore is that medicine is not dispensed within the clinics. The doctor will give you a prescription, but you have to make a trip to the nearest pharmacy in order to pick up the required medication. Again this can be a bummer.

Perhaps this separation of the clinic and pharmacy explains why patient after-care is slightly lacking. For one, I wish the dentist had prescribed me some good pain-killers. The pain after the anaesthetic wore out was truly terrible (I hadn't expected it) and even the ibruprofen I had didn't help. It largely ebbed by the next morning although the area remained sore and tender.

The dentist handed me a slip of paper with the name of an anti-bacterial gel (corsodyl), but no explicit instructions were given on how to use it. So clarify all doubts before leaving the clinic to ensure you have as much information as possible. The pharmacist will be able to answer your questions but obviously having treated you, the dentist would be better-placed and more well-informed about your situation.

2. Sink your Teeth into...A Tasty Tandoori Treat

So a week later, my tooth has fully healed. No more gnashing of teeth, it's time to celebrate with a proper meal!

I headed down to Kebab Mahal on Nicolson Square, a small sit-down restaurant specializing in traditional Tandoori dishes. Kebab Mahal's been around for about 20 years now, so that's something you have to respect. The menu is also entirely halal.


I ordered a Shish Kebab which came with a side of salad (mainly onions as pictured), and a slice of naan. The naan was not particularly memorable, however the meat was excellent. Cubes of juicy, flavourful beef coated in a bright red sauce - I don't exactly know what the sauce consisted of but it does make your tongue tingle quite literally. And it is rather intense I must say! Order a lassi (cold yoghurt-based drink) to temper the spice.

All in all, a satisfying meal can be had for 3 pounds. Go if you want a zing unattainable from the comparatively (dare I say?) bland flavours of English food - this is sure to whet your appetite! Although note the closure of the restaurant on Fridays from noon to 1pm for afternoon prayers.

Back to the Rice Bowl

Returning exhausted from Newcastle yesterday, I succumbed and decided to treat myself to my first Chinese meal in Scotland. I'd been tempted by the smell of Roasted duck when walking through Newcastle's Chinatown, and my Asian palate simply had to be satisfied.

Edinburgh doesn't have a Chinatown (not that I'm aware of), so I headed off for the next best thing - Kampong Ah Lee on Nicholson Street.

I swear for the past 4 weeks, this place has been calling out to me, with its bright red facde, and the newspaper clippings plastered proudly across the store front. The reviews did seem pretty promising, however sue me for saying this, but I'm dubious whenever I hear Western food writers who have never lived in the region praising Malaysian/Singaporean food as 'authentic.' Perhaps I'm a snob that way.

But in any case, my conversion started the minute I entered the humble premises of Kampong Ah Lee. Some surefire signs you're in good company? The clientale is Asian, the music is Jay Chou and the decoration is kitschy miniature Petronas Twin Towers. A bonus if general atmosphere is homely and unpretentious - loud talking, people using fingers to eat chicken wings etc.

The menu is quite extensive covering a whole gamut of dishes, including the usual suspects like Nasi Lemak, Laksa and Hor Fan. However, here I must express some regret that they also had Singaporean noodles on the menu. What on earth are these mysterious Singaporean noodles?? I saw them everywhere in New York's Chinatown but have yet to figure out what they are. Apparently some exotic concoction involving bee hoon, curry and other random spices, which can be found everywhere else except Singapore.

Price-wise, all dishes are about 6 pounds upward. It's definitely not cheap compared to their equivalents back home, but that's life abroad I suppose.

Because I had a craving for salted fish, I placed my order for the pork and salted fish rice dish with a young-ish Chinese waiter who spoke with a delightful Scottish accent, and then switched to Cantonese when behind the counter with his mother.

Sadly I didn't take a picture of the food because I was so hungry that I just tucked in the moment it arrived steaming hot on the table. However, for 5.80pounds you get a massive mound of Thai rice which is slightly disproportionate to the amount of meat and veg you get. But I'm not complaining - I finished practically all of it. In addition to pork and salted fish, the meal for some reason, was also accompanied by chicken and beef slices. The entire thing was garnished with sliced onions and green peppers, and rounded off with a generous topping of gravy.

It was in a word, shiok. I suppose it is hard to go wrong with pork, salted fish and rice, but in any case I enjoyed it. It wasn't fantastic but it was good enough to satisfy my craving for Asian food. The pork even had those fatty bits which are just mmmmmmmmmmmm....

Go when you get hit by that insatiable craving of good ol' home-cooked food! Throw in a bubble-tea as well for instance gratification.

Gastronomia

Eating out is a rare experience for one so accustomed to regular meals in Pollock halls. Whilst breakfasts and lunches are generally dreary affairs (the menu never changes), I have to admit that the dinners are quite a different story altogether. Behold a dinner from 2 weeks ago:



You can see how popular the salad bar is with me from my rather sparsely-filled plate in the right corner. Love the apple crumble with fresh cream though!

But hot and ready Pollock dinners aside, I would feel profoundly ashamed if I'd never ventured beyond the dining hall during my 8 weeks here! So here are photographs of my (modest) gastronomic experiences over the past 2 days.

Sunday: Pub Grub @ The Royal McGregor

Hosted friends from France last weekend. To satisfy their curiousity for strange Scottish food (ie: Haggis), we headed over to the Royal Mile in search of 'traditional' fare and ended up at the Royal McGregor.

The Royal McGregor advertises itself as one of the best pubs for Haggis. I don't know how true that is, but I have to say the Haggis dish was more than satisfactory. And now, the evidence!


This has got to be the prettiest Haggis I've ever seen. If you're not looking closely, it might pass off as a dessert. Well, that's actually layers of Haggis, Tatties (potatoes) and Neeps (Turnips) surrounded in a sea of gravy infused with rosemary. It tasted as good as it looks, and I liked how the rosemary offset the richness of the Haggis. Should've gotten a beer to wash it down.



A steak and ale pie. I was a little surprised to find the 'steak and ale' divorced completely from the 'pie' - the pastry itself actually sits ontop of the meat stuff below. Bizzare. Other than that, a nice, warm and hearty dish. Beef had a strong, pungent taste. A bit chewy and tough, but otherwise I enjoyed it.


This dish is named Crofter's Chicken and it's fab. To be more precise, the whisky cream sauce is great. We mopped it up with the chicken, potatoes and carrots...whatever was left on the plate! I didn't exactly taste the 'whisky' in it, or perhaps that might simply be a problem with my palate. But whatever it was, this was some sauce.

The chicken itself is a breast stuffed with bacon and haggis. It was alright. I don't think the stuffing actually added anything to the dish, but all the more Haggis to satisfy our strange-Scottish-cuisine craving.

And because this is the 21st-century, even avowedly 'traditional' Scottish pubs have gone high-tech with the internet! Check them out here http://home.freeuk.net/royalmcgregor/index.html

Monday: Chocolate Soup



Hunter Square is a spot near the Royal Mile where emo kids hang out and just generally be emo. Chocolate Soup faces the Square directly, and with its glass storefront, it's the perfect place to hang out and watch the colourful denizens of Hunter Square in action over a Hot Chocolate.

I'd heard a lot about the sinfully rich 'meals'/beverages at Chocolate Soup, and had been wanting to go for the longest time. So I finally decided to indulge myself on a lazy Monday afternoon.


So evidently they get absolutely Zero marks for presentation and originality - I seriously contemplated whether I should put up what looks like a bland and unappetizing protein shake on my blog. But they get image-space simply because oh my oh my what a concoction it was. This is a Banana Split Latte, and it is part of their dessert cocktail selection which also includes 'Tiramisu and 'Strawberry Sundae.' To give you an idea of what it's like, think of a moist banana chocolate cake. Now think about it in a liquified form and chilled.

Quite heavenly. And this is from someone who abhors Chocolate milk - or any flavoured milk for that matter. I thought it would take me a while to get through my cocktail, because too much chocolate tends to get cloying. However I gulped down about half of this mixture in a matter of seconds, and had to ration the rest. Read my book and took small sips in between. Mmmm, small pleasures in life.

Drop by if you get sick of your usual Starbucks or coffee joint. Chocolate Soup does a wide variety of hot drinks as well, but I'd recommend a chilled drink simply because it tends to be less overpowering. Alternatively, consider a drink with fruits in it, which I imagine would add a light balance to the 'heaviness' of melted chocolate!

So that sums up my rather modest gastronomical adventure since Sunday. I must profess myself to be quite, quite satisfied. When food cravings compel me to venture out of the Pollock again, you can be sure I'll blog about it!

Chinese New Year: A Gastronomical Experience in Photos

School work has started to pile up, so I forsee that my blog entries in the next week will be fairly brief. But I wanted to make a mention of this before it slipped my mind completely.


Yes, in the thick of an Edinburgh winter, some of us gathered together on chu yi for a pseudo Chinese New Year reunion dinner!

And for some reason, I was assigned to prepare the vegetables even though I have absolutely no experience in Chinese cooking (or any cooking for that matter). But thanks to helpful, idiot-proof recipes online, I dare say the final result didn't turn out half bad.

Consulting hand-written instructions


The Bok Choy from the Aihua Chinese supermarket turning out very nice and green


The finished product - yay!

In all, it was a really delicious dinner. The steamed rice was a refreshing welcome to the rather hard grains we get in Pollock - poor, poor excuse for rice!! And of course, Chinese greens a nice balance to the fried bacon and eggs I've been accustomed to ever since arrival here. So apart from my oyster sauce veg, here's what was on the menu that night:

1. Felyna's Vegetable (or "Stone") Soup



2. Felyna's Onion Omelette

Sweet, tangy perfection. I like!

3. Iris' Tang Cu Pai Gu (vinegared pork ribs)

Apparently a Shanghainese recipe, and my absolute favourite of the night! I have to confess I gobbled up quite a few of those ribs.



4. PS's Roast Chicken

Only 2.50pounds for many chicken thighs of delight!


5. Chee May's Fish with Chilli Sauce

Red hot spicy love.

and

6. Kenneth's Brussel Sprouts



I really liked this. And coming from someone who usually hates brussel sprouts, that's a compliment.

Ended the night feeling extremely bloated, happy and nourished. Sadly, no gambling or daidee for me after the CNY meal - it was back to work, and that's exactly where I remain 3 days later. Sigh.

Well, will run now. Need to catch some sleep. In the meantime, gong xi fa cai everyone!