Observing the Scottish Parliament

So I open with a question that I've been nursing ever since my first glimpse of the Scottish Parliament building. In this day and age when anything seems to go, what makes a piece of architecture 'good' or 'bad'? How does a building ascend the unassailable ranks of the 'avant-garde,' and avoid being relegated to the plain -ugh-?

The Scottish parliament building has been beleaguered by criticisms ever since it was first unveiled in 2004. Coming to Edinburgh, I've learnt that locals have conferred upon the building a whole constellation of dubious titles. One city guide memorably called it a '400 million pound eyesore.' Ouch! Well I'll let you be the judge:

Admittedly this is one of the nicer glamour shots I managed to find online. If you look closer, you'll notice that rows of bamboo poles line the entrance, the roof and some of the windows- one of the Parliament's more bizzare features. Part of Catalan architect, Enric Miralles' vision to integrate the building with its surroundings, such that it appears to 'grow out of the land'?

In spite of the generally hostile public reception, I was interested to know that the Scottish Parliament has been feted within the architectural community. It's even received several awards! Definitely a structure that has polarized opinion.

Whatever your views on the building are, the Scottish Parliament is a visitor's attraction in its own right. And after popping by yesterday, I would strongly recommend you go not just to gawp at the soaring heights of Miralle's imagination (detractors would say insanity), but to experience what the Parliament itself houses. It's worth remembering that this monumental project is first and foremost, a triumphant symbol of Scottish home rule. The year 1997 saw Westminster agreeing to the creation of a devolved Scottish parliament - the first of its kind since Scotland's union with England in 1707. And today, anybody today can walk into Miralle's building and watch the Scottish Parliament in action, as I did two days ago.

I arrived at the premises around 10.30am and easily got a free timed ticket into the Parliament's debating chamber. I soon learnt that Thursday is the best day to visit as that's when the Parliament is in full session. You can also catch them on Wednesdays as well, but the chamber only meets for half a day then - more importantly, you'll also miss one of the most exciting parts of the parliamentary session (which I'm coming to.)

The public gallery in the debating chamber was relatively empty when I first arrived. The speakers present were debating the issue of community justice centres, from what I could catch. However closer to around 11.30am, swarms of people poured into the gallery, including a whole gaggle of school children. The sudden influx of people was explained when the Presiding Officer announced promptly at 11.40am, the start of Question and Answer time!

My timed ticket expired at 11.40am but it seemed no one was enforcing this. I consequently ended up staying till around just after 12pm, which was great because I managed to catch a little of the First Minister's Question Time - undeniably one of the most entertaining spectacles of the week. It's identical to the Prime Minister's Question Time in the House of Commons: members of parliament take turns to pose questions to the First Minister, Alex Salmond of the Scottish National Party, whilst simultaneously inserting a catty comment or two about his administration. The resulting dialogue is a lively spar with both sides jousting with clever barbs and witty retorts.


MP: ...So that said, my question to the First Minister is: Is he ignorant, or was he lying?

Presiding Officer: We will not have accusations of lying in this Chamber. I ask that you withdraw your statement, sir.

MP: Alright, I'll withdraw that but substitute it with something else. Was the First Minister ignorant... or was he economical with the truth?

Haha somehow that stuck.

If you are interested in gaining entry into the chamber to catch the First Minister's Question Time, it is advisable to book your gallery ticket ahead as it is very popular with the public. Alternatively, parliamentary proceedings are screened in various locations within the building itself. So if you can't get a ticket, you can watch the action on the medium its most suited for: a plasma screen TV.

Finally I have to say that the staff at the Scottish Parliament are one of the friendliest and most helpful I have encountered. They will take the initiative to approach you without prior prompting - whether it be to enquire if you need assistance, or to inform you that they have spare gallery tickets for Question Time. Magnificient people. I was very impressed.

Contentious appearance notwithstanding, I'd say the real debate and fireworks lie inside Miralle's creation itself. So definitely, make the Parliament one of your stops in Edinburgh.

A Taste of the Modern: Dean Gallery and Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Scottish National Modern Art Gallery - taken from the landscape lawn

So with my visit to the Dean and Modern art gallery last friday, I can now proudly say that I have visited all 5 gallery complexes under the National Galleries of Scotland!

The Dean and Modern art gallery are located all the way Northwest in Dean Village (see earlier post). The surroundings are quite beautiful - both galleries are set in the midst of parkland. The Modern art gallery itself has an interesting landscaped lawn, which is full of sinuous curves and water features - you can walk on it yourself and get a mild dizzy high while standing at the peak of the landscaped mound which overlooks the entire lawn.

Sadly, I wish the experience inside the modern art gallery had been as inspiring as its exteriors. I must qualify first that I like and support how museums and galleries are gradually evolving away from their 19th-century image as unassailable temples of reason, perpetuating linear narratives of cultural progress. At the same time, this is no excuse for a movement into post-modern chaos! Or should I say, a generally poor organization of the collection.

My main gripes with the Modern art gallery were that it included no ready floor plan (none I could see) to help orientation within the gallery space, and also poor labelling of the works - descriptions should never be repeated (or appear repetitive) even if they pertain to the same artist!

In general, I came out of the gallery feeling as if I hadn't really learnt or benefitted much as there was too little of the right information, and a weak sense of narrative coherence suggested between the different exhibits in the permanent collection.

The highlight for me though, was finally getting to see in person the handiwork of the infamous Damien Hirst. Frankly speaking, I was not impressed by some of Hirst's works. Call me ignorant or unappreciative of contemporary art, but I don't think an enlarged periodic table should be taking up so much space in an art gallery. Its significance (to me) seems to be drawn from the fact that it once hung in Hirst's restaurant, rather than from any intrinsic artistic or cultural value. It did not draw or engage me into any deeper kind of contemplation either.

Some works of Hirst which I did like however, included "Trinity: Pharmacology, Physiology, Pathology" which is a contemporary and rather playful take on a medieval triptych. I also quite liked his sculpture, "Wretched War" which was disturbing, but nevertheless compelled a powerful emotive response. From what I gather based on the exhibited works, some themes Hirst repeatedly engages is the tenuous interface between life and death, and an observation of the quasi-devotional significance society places on drugs and medicines (reflected best I thought, in "Trinity") At the same time, I don't think he deserves to have so many rooms devoted to him, compared to the other individual artists who were featured. Neither do I think that these fascinating ideas are best explored through animals suspended in vitrine. That's my opinion anyway.

The Dean gallery next door was a better experience for me. If you do go there I would recommend heading straight up to the current exhibition featuring '4 Scottish artists.'

In particular, I enjoyed viewing the small but fascinationg collection of works attributed to John Bellany. They make the Gallery well worth a trip. Check out his interpretation of the Crucifixion scene in 'Allegory.' It is a provoking work that fuses Christological imagery with scenes of realism drawn from Bellany's own experience growing up in a rural fishing community. Really quite something altogether.

Alright have to scoot off now world - ta ta!

Edinburgh's Best Kept Secret: Water of Leith Walkway

The wonderful thing about Edinburgh is that it's a city you can never truly exhaust. Beyond the obvious attractions, it holds many surprises if you give it a chance. Always keep your eyes peeled for the discreet detours. And don't be afraid to jump down the rabbit-hole - you might just land up in your own little wonderland.



I went off to Dean Village last Friday, to make my long-awaited trip to the Modern Art gallery. Dean Village is roughly 20 minutes by foot from the City centre. Start from Princes Street, and head North-west; you'll segue nicely from the impenetrable mass of shoppers to rows of sweet, well-tended residences which sit snugly along Belford Road. It's a nice place by itself to stroll around.

The museum lies somewhere down Belford Road, but what's inside it is a subject for another time. As you cross the road to enter the museum grounds, you might notice a sign by the side of the road:

Head down the wooden flight of stairs which lead to the Water of Leith Walkway. I have a feeling you won't regret it.

You'll find yourself on a little pathway right next to the river. Trees on either side of the Water of Leith enclose you in a quiet, contemplative world where the only sounds are the footfalls of the occassional jogger - muffled by the soft, mossy ground - and of course, the whimisical bubbling of the water as it makes its way down the river bed. It's picturesque, enchanting and a wonderful place to just wander along and get away from it all.

I've since learnt that the walk way extends for quite a distance, and leads all the way to Leith. I only walked a smidgen of it on Friday, before making a detour to get back home before dark. If I could, I would definitely go back again and attempt to cover the entire length of the walkway!

So if ever you need some respite from city life (not that Edinburgh's stressful actually), head straight to the water. Just stand there and take all the time you need to soak it in. You'll be charmed.

The Highlands (Day 3)

I have to say that this day was generally uneventful compared to the previous two. However it was certainly insightful as it taught me the true extent of just how erratic the weather in Scotland is - as if I hadn't already gotten a hint of that in the past 9 weeks!

Behold our first view of Urquhart Castle and the Loch Ness at 9.15am on 8th March.

Horrible horrible weather. It was the first time I've experienced hail in Scotland. The castle looked like a very sad fortress in a giant churning vat of tar.

Because of the rather violent weather, we waited 10 minutes in the car for the visitor centre to open at 9.30am. After that short interval of 15 minutes, we emerged from our cars and revisited Urquhart castle and the Loch at the exact same photo point. And look how it had changed:

The hail had gratefully let up. Sunlight peeked out from behind the clouds and washed over Urquhart castle, which now stood prettily poised for that perfect postcard shot! And the Loch itself - if there really is a monster living beneath its depths, I understand why. It makes a beautiful home with its sparkling deep-blue waters which just seem to stretch out forever into the horizon.

We could've stayed longer in the carpark taking shots of Urquhart and the Loch from afar. But eventually we went into the visitor centre, paid our 6 pound fee which got us admission inside the castle itself.

This is a place designed specifically for tourists in mind, you can be sure of that. The gift shop is the first place you're led into. It is stocked with every imaginable thing including shocking pink Urquhart lollipops, picture books dedicated to Highland Cows and tapestries depicting fair maidens and chivalric knights. While inside the marvellously-stocked shop, we were led into a miniature theatrette where we enjoyed a polished 8-minute film, styled as a 'historical re-enactment' of the Castle's checkered past. At the end of the film, the screen rolled up slowly in the still-darkened theatrette. This was followed by what must be the most predictable move ever designed for impact: the curtains behind the screen dramatically pulled themselves apart with flourish revealing...Urquhart Castle itself in the distance!

It's really quite tacky and groan-inducing, but I must say the castle did look quite splendid from inside the theatrette, basking rather smugly in the sun.

The management of the Castle must have some formidable 'weather' button to ensure tourists get the best possible views of Urquhart when those curtains part. Because just as we entered the castle itself to poke around, the glorious sun vanished and was replaced by slushy snow and howling gusts of winds. What a drastic turnaround! Spent a wet, teeth-chattering one hour walking around the castle grounds before being beaten back into the gift shop. And just 5 minutes after we entered the warmth of the adjoining cafeteria, the sun came out again just as a new wave of tourists filtered out from the theatrette. Coincidence? I think not!

Anyway, back to Urquhart Castle itself. Perhaps the term castle is a misnomer. It should really be called Urquhart ruins because the original castle was more or less blown up by its own inhabitants several centuries back - a useful nugget of information from the 8 minute film!

The ruins themselves are about as exciting as ruins can get I suppose. There are spots signposted as former chambers or chapels which are literally just foundational stones, which gaze up vacuously into the sky because there's no longer any ceiling. You can get some nice views of the Loch up-and-close by climbing up this former gate tower in Urquhart (at least I think it was a tower), but the castle/ruins itself is nothing that big to shout about. It's the kind of place you'd go to simply because its right on the banks of the Loch Ness, and signposted as an 'attraction' in its own right.

View of the Ness from the tower

After Urquhart, we headed up toward Inverness the capital of the highlands! It's a rather non-descript looking city and we more or less drove past it en route to the Cairngorms national park, our next would-be-attraction for the day. I say that because we once again experienced the temperamental power of Highland weather there. The park was blanketed in snow which continued to fall thick and fast. So much for the rich, green landscape featured in Martin's guidebook - we got a blinding white deal even on the cusp of Spring! I didn't take any pictures because i) we didn't want to leave the car except for a mad dash to the nearest cafe for hot chocolate and warm spiced wine and ii) there wasn't all that much to take pictures of anyway except for snow-capped ski mountains which I already had my fill of on the first day. A bit of a disappointment! But that's life for you.

So after a quick drive around the Cairngorms and getting our tyres stuck in the snow more than once, we made a hasty exit home-bound, with several stops and snow fights along the way. We stopped briefly in Perth along the way to look for dinner.

I mention Perth only to give a word of advice: never go there on a Sunday night. Or perhaps, never go to Perth at all. It was literally a ghost town when we went. The kind of street scene you expect after an army of zombies have invaded and infected everyone. Nothing was open at 5.30pm except Pizza Hut, and to cap it off, there were a couple of yobbish-looking people who extorted a grand total of 1 quid from one of us.

Given the slim pickings at Perth, we headed back to Edinburgh for our posh dinner. Found ourselves at the All Bar One on George Street, which proved much more satisfactory and happifying. It was so good to finally get some warm food!

Thus we ended our Highlands trip over a hearty meal and a bottle of white wine. Cheers to us for making it that far! I couldn't have asked for a better road trip (except for the weather I guess).

The Highlands (Day 2)

I'm going to break out of my attempt to be objective and say that the Isle of Skye was absolutely amazing. In terms of the natural landscape, it is breath-taking and unsurpassed by anything else I have ever seen.

On the flipside, the weather is horribly erratic. The guidebooks weren't lying when they said Skye is the place you can experience all four seasons in just one day. We encountered an extremely disappointing start to the second day of our highlands trip, as Skye greeted us with lashing winds and torrential rainfall. However, the sun miraculously came out by mid-day and dispelled the clouds. The pervasive mist parted and we were treated to some of the most stunning scenery ever.

1. The Quiraing

A series of rock slips, containing rather bizarre land formations - welcome to The Quiraing. We had originally wanted to hike around this area, however, the rain and the wind kind of ruined this for us. Nevertheless, we managed to drive uphill - I'm not exactly sure where though. We got out of the car braving some of the scariest winds I have ever encountered in Scotland and clambered to the edge of the plateau we were on to get a sight of what lay below us.



You'd think that photography offers a straight-forward snapshot of life, but it really doesn't (well maybe just my camera). The frustrating thing is that it can never fully capture reality, but only proffer a hazy suggestion of what it is - quite literally here, as the pictures are quite foggy.

But in any case, that's my point - only a suggestion or glimmer of reality. And I suppose the same thing applies for language and art. There are natural limits to expression and representation, and I find that even more salient now as I try to describe the scene from The Quiraing. Someone jokingly remarked that it reminded her of The Land before Time. A humourous comparison certainly, but true on so many levels. It was an almost primordial, transcendental landscape we'd chanced upon. Save for the wind and the rain, there was also a remarkable and yawning quiet in the air which seemed to just go on for miles and miles. It seemed like nothing could have dared interrupted it. The scene was majestic and just utterly grand. There are no other words for it.

2. Faerie Glen


Faerie Glen lies somewhere off the village of Uig. If The Quiraing is commanding and almost regal, then Faerie Glen is its absolutely charming and dare I say, cute sibling. The rain had stopped by the time we reached the Glen, so we took the opportunity to stretch our legs and go for a little hike up the numerous, conical hills which dot the Glen landscape. The Glen offered a pretty easy walk - it wasn't as flat as the online guides claimed, but it was certainly manageable and very enjoyable. This is coming from someone who usually does not like hiking and most physical activity! But I was literally hopping from place to place in Faery Glen, and scrambling to get over the next hill...and the next...and the next...




Good times. Slipped quite a bit in the mud, and ended up with a sore arm the next morning (while breaking my fall). But for this, I'd say worth 10 slips in the mud and torn jeans - which incidentally, one in our party suffered. Again I stress with some hints of regret: come to Scotland with good, sturdy shoes, and then pray for dry weather.

3.The Old Man of Storr

From Faerie Glen, we doubled back to Staffin and headed down toward the direction of Portree to catch a glimpse of this famous rock pinnacle. Something worth mentioning along the way was the beautiful Staffin Bay. I hadn't expected it to look so lovely but it did. Sadly didn't get my camera out on time, and it was obscured by roadside trees in a matter of seconds, but definitely an image that will stay with me for some time.


A picture of The Storr, a series of rocky hills, as taken from inside the car. The Old man of Storr is the sharp-ish looking outcrop on the extreme right of the picture!

We parked and walked through a forest path to get to the base of the Storr. The forest was really pretty. It is exactly the kind of forest you'd imagine an Enid Blyton story would be set in. Perhaps I ought to thank the rain, because it left the forest with a very enchanting and misty quality; I almost expected wood nymphs to pop up someplace!



For the hiking-averse, you'll be pleased to know that the Storr forest is extremely user-friendly. The path is broad and very clearly defined. It's also pretty flat, and easy to walk. Once you exit the forest however, its an ascending path all the way up to the Old Man of Storr, with several loose rocks littering the way. Again, sturdy shoes are paramount.

Vertigo hit me halfway up the climb, so I stopped and took a rest while the others went up. Enjoyed really really nice views of the forest and rocky path down below, and the sea just beyond. Like the scene at the Quiraing, it was shot through with an almost unnatural stillness and calm. The sun was out by this time, so it was quite comfortable just sitting there enjoying the view.


Eventually descended. We packed back into the car and headed off for our accommodation in Broadford.

Technically the end of our 'day,' however I must make special mention of the Broadford Youth Hostel - IT WAS A MARVELOUS EXPERIENCE. There was WARM water, a spacious and clean kitchen, a reception which was open up till 10.30pm, a comfy lounge with squashy arm chairs and clean beds with no lumps. And the thing I was most impressed by was the DOUBLE CURTAIN PARTITIONING in the shower stalls! That means our clothes and bath towel were protected and kept dry while we showered! Also, even though we were not there long enough to enjoy it, the hostel was set just by the coast with nice views of the sea. I highly recommend this place to anyone stopping by the Trotternish peninsula in the Isle of Skye. Do not underestimate the difference of a good and comfortable hostel with regular heating!

The Highlands (Day 1)

Blogging about my Highlands trip in retrospect is pretty hard, because I have to suppress the urge to gush about it in rather sentimentalized terms, whilst utilizing alarming-looking CAPITAL LETTERS WITH NO BREAKS AND EXCITED PUNCTUATION!!!!! However I shall try going about this chronologically so I don't miss anything out, and yes, as a historian-in-the-making I always endeavour to be as truthful and objective as possible.

So here goes - March 6 2009, Day 1 of my Highlands trip!

Driving past:

The Falkirk Wheel - Stirling - Loch Lomond in the Trossachs - Glen Coe

So after a slight delay when picking up the cars in the morning, we set off from Edinburgh about an hour later than projected. Nevertheless, hail the GPS system we had decided to rent. It got us to our first destination without frustrating detours and aimless wandering, and served us exceedingly well over the next 3 days. When in doubt, always always always get the GPS.

1. Falkirk Wheel

Our first stop for the day.

Now, I know I said that I would try to be truthful, but everyone knows that complete objectivity is impossible. Nevertheless, I'll do the next best thing and alert you to my personal biases and prejudices so you know where I'm coming from. I am an Arts student interested in pretty landscapes, casual walks, galleries and cultural monuments. I went along to the Falkirk wheel after having heard inspired comments like "marvel of Scottish engineering," and "you will just go there and stare at it in awe." So I went expecting to nothing short of floored.



This is the Falkirk wheel. It is a rotating boat lift. The most objective assessment I can give in a word is: Yawn. I'd recommend it only if you're an engineer, or it's along the way. And if you go, don't linger.

To counter this rather bland appraisal, I should say that some of my friends thought the wheel was very interesting and 'cool.' I suppose it is indeed an engineering feat though I'm not sure how exactly to appreciate it. So there you go - two sides of the story. Decide for yourself.

2. Stirling Castle, Stirling


Now this is something worth going for. Make the drive uphill to Stirling castle. You'll be greeted by a statue of Robert the Bruce, one of Scotland's most famous kings on the castle esplanade. The castle is not as big as Edinburgh castle, and parts of it are sadly under renovation and will continue to be for quite some time. Nevertheless, go if only for the magnificent panaromic landscape you'll enjoy from the castle rock. Unlike the busy cityscape you spy from Edinburgh castle, Stirling offers much more greenery and large expanses of countrified scenes. Admittedly not as breath-taking compared to other sights later on in my trip (won't jump the gun here!), but very pleasing and relaxing.





Other than the awesome views, there are lots of little nooks and crannies within the castle which you can check out. My favourite was the Chapel simply because it looked warm, inviting and was bedecked with lovely wall tapestries.



I wish we could've spent more time in Stirling, but we had to leave after an hour to make it in time for our next destination...

3. Tarbet, Loch Lomond


Would have easily been the highlight of the day if not for the weather. You might have discerned this already from the picture, but we were unfortunate enough to pick an overcast day for our cruise down Loch Lomond, supposedly one of the most beautiful lochs in Scotland.

But clouds and drizzle aside, it's definitely possible to see why Loch Lomond is said to surpass even its more well-known sister, the Loch Ness. The loch is ringed by picturesque hills clothed in a canopy of trees - a scene I imagine would look strikingly vivid on a sunny day, with bursts of colour along the banks, and patches of golden sunlight illuminating the waters of the Loch.




As it was however, the weather put quite a damper on our plans. The Loch was misty and the grey colour of iron when we sailed through it. Nevertheless, definitely glad to have gone on the cruise. We got a dimmed version of the Loch's beauty, but it was pretty nevertheless. The weather actually gave it a rather enigmatic and picturesque cast. I'd go back again if I could and watch the sun rise over the Loch.



4. En Route to Glen Coe

Headed off to our accommodation in Glen coe - Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban was filmed around this area though I don't think we passed through the exact site where Harry, Ron and Hermione gallavanted.

The landscape we drove through was absolutely surreal. There were wild, precipitous mountains, capped in layers of pure white snow. At some points I felt I was passing through an unearthly moonscape. We didn't exactly get out to look around since it was obviously very cold, but driving through this other-worldly space was definitely a memorable part of the first day for me. Now that's the kind of thing that really makes you stop and stare in awe. Sadly I only managed to take pictures from inside the car while we were moving - they really do not capture the vast, almost deathly beauty of the mountains.




An awesome conclusion to our Friday drive. We spent the night at the Glen Coe Independent Hostel which is located in the very small, sleepy town of - you guessed it - Glen coe. I frankly don't have much to say about the place except that it was cold and the showers didn't come with hot water. However I slept extremely soundly helped no doubt by the celebratory beer we had for dinner that night - a fitting and bubbly end to our first eventful day, and a toast to the days ahead.

A Night of Laughter at The Stand

Was greatly entertained last night at The Stand, on York Street. For 4 pounds, I entered a cosy and unpretentious lair where I enjoyed 2 hours worth of solid comedy. And I'm talking about the kind that induces serious damage in the form of side-splitting and jaw-aching laughter. It was really good and I honestly wished it could have gone on longer!

The acts rotate every night, but last night's performance saw a group of actors performing a series of short sketches one after another. I loved the hysterically improbable scenarios enacted onstage. Some gems included,

Gary, the smallest paedophile in the world ("Ah Teacher we meet again...on the battlefield of the age of consent!")

The murderous mother who feeds her son the evidence of her crimes - literally. ("Mum?! Is that a corpse in my sandwich??" ... "Oh no dear, that's a panini.")

The sanctimonious radio programme for home-schooled Scottish children ("Children, we're going to learn about Love today and its opposite - Gonorrhea.")

The nostalgic local who believes 'nothing ever changes' in his home town ("Jesus Christ, you knocked over a kid!!" ..."Oh no, there's always been a dead kid on this part of the road...")


And the Cow and Farmer who are embroiled in a highly unusual business transaction ("Farmer, I have come to collect on my debt. This debt of milk must be paid in human semen.")

Absolutely fantastic. I'd highly recommend this to anyone who isn't offended by the occasional (okay, quite frequent) dirty, nudge-wink kind of joke. It's so worth your money and time. Just be sure to go early so you can grab seats.

Verdict: GO FOR IT.

Down the Closes

A random activity anyone can do in Edinburgh.


Place yourself anywhere along the Royal Mile.

Look around you.





Now look closer.







For some strange reason, I'm reminded of how J.K. Rowling described Harry Potter's first encounter of the Leaky Cauldron. 'Slide' is the word she used, and how appropriate it is. Your eyes are indeed tempted to slide between the loud and fancy storefronts, ignoring the non-descript pub in between. But it's there nevertheless - a quiet, unassuming portal to another world.

These narrow, little alleyways are leftovers of the Royal Mile's medieval past. They are literally everywhere on the Royal Mile, sandwiched in between various tartan and souvenier shops. They are generally overlooked by busy pedestrians and tourists headed for more photogenic sights at Edinburgh Castle or the Holyroodplace Palace. But they are there nevertheless, silent archways suspended in time. And every now and then, someone abruptly turns and vanishes into them.

In a bid to satisfy my curiousity, I decided to take a few turns myself down the closes on Monday afternoon. No close leads to the same place, but most of the ones I took transported me into tranquil courtyards and peaceful residential areas - all rather different worlds from the busy trunk street I had just exited.






I won't lie and promise that you'll find anything special or particularly exciting. But the point is not to go with expectations. Rather, relish the sense of the unknown as you roam down the winding and claustrophobic lanes. Realize with a start, that you're walking down roads taken by people 500 years ago and which are literally soaked in history. Ponder on some of the more enigmatic names you'll see - what exactly went on at Fleshmarket's Close? Did the world really seem to end at the World's End Close? Who was 'Dunbar' and why did he have a Close named after him?

Above all, just embrace the feeling of being happily lost. Suspend the need to follow any clear route, and abandon attempts to find yourself on a map - you'll probably search in vain anyway.

And if you're lucky, you just might find yourself somewhere special when you emerge into the light. If you're not, that's fine. You can still take a chance on the next lane which presents itself to you :)

A Giddy Start to March: Scaling Arthur's Seat

It rises majestically into the horizon - strong, silent, formidable. It's a mecca for hikers, climbers and other sports enthusiasts. It's a breathtaking taste of romantic highland landscape right smack in the middle in Edinburgh.

Arthur's Seat is the crown jewel of Holyrood park. Its the highest point of a cluster of now dormant volcanic hills, and a popular spot to visit if you want the privilege of exercising or walking your dog, whilst enjoying the 'View' with a capital V. For us (long-term) tourists, scaling Arthur's seat is also a rite-of-passage of sorts, and reaching the peak brings with it an inevitable sense of accomplishment, sweetened by unparalleled views of the city.

So having been assured by Arthur's-seat-veteran, Luke, that the hill is indeed easily scalable, I embarked with some friends for my own journey up to the peak on a cloudy Sunday morning. Some impressions:

1. The Climb: There are a variety of ways to scale the hill, some of which are quite challenging (requiring you to literally climb using all-fours), and some of which are more suitable for the less-athletic. Falling miserably into the latter category, we took what was supposedly the most gentle ascent up to the peak which lasted for about an hour.


The route was not insurmountable, but not a cake walk either (for me anyway). I cautiously encountered rocky and slippery footpaths, in addition to exceedingly strong winds when closer to the top. I learnt after some mild heart-attack inducing moments that small, crab-like steps are the way to go when descending the peak. If you're going up in winter, wear a coat or a pair of jeans which you don't mind getting dirty - Pei xin and I overcame the steeper parts by simply sitting down and carefully lowering ourselves till we got a good foothold. Good shoes with grip are a must. Curse my Keds!


2. The View

The view accompanying the climb up to (and down from) Arthur's seat makes the journey well worth it. Along the way we sighted:


A picturesque Loch. I forget the name sadly.



Luxuriant and verdant stretches of field which just entice you to lie on them - and indeed one in our party tumbled down the hills literally (and voluntarily), happily cushioned by the incredibly thick and soft grass.


Rugged landscapes which are truly impressive especially when bathed in the mid-day sun; the light throws into breathtaking relief all their dramatic crags and contours. Definitely try to go up on a sunny day. You'll get so much more out of it.



And of course, a bird's eye view of the city which stretches all the way to the Firth of Forth. Careful you don't get swept away when taking that perfect shot though. The winds are scarily strong right at the peak.


Descended and left Arthur's Seat close to noon-time. I'm glad I went up (finally), but I don't think I'll do it again. Just a little too much excitement and activity for a self-confessed couch-potato with a fear of heights. But for all who don't mind a spot of hiking, leave your dainty shoes behind and go for it!