On the flipside, the weather is horribly erratic. The guidebooks weren't lying when they said Skye is the place you can experience all four seasons in just one day. We encountered an extremely disappointing start to the second day of our highlands trip, as Skye greeted us with lashing winds and torrential rainfall. However, the sun miraculously came out by mid-day and dispelled the clouds. The pervasive mist parted and we were treated to some of the most stunning scenery ever.
1. The Quiraing
A series of rock slips, containing rather bizarre land formations - welcome to The Quiraing. We had originally wanted to hike around this area, however, the rain and the wind kind of ruined this for us. Nevertheless, we managed to drive uphill - I'm not exactly sure where though. We got out of the car braving some of the scariest winds I have ever encountered in Scotland and clambered to the edge of the plateau we were on to get a sight of what lay below us.
You'd think that photography offers a straight-forward snapshot of life, but it really doesn't (well maybe just my camera). The frustrating thing is that it can never fully capture reality, but only proffer a hazy suggestion of what it is - quite literally here, as the pictures are quite foggy.
But in any case, that's my point - only a suggestion or glimmer of reality. And I suppose the same thing applies for language and art. There are natural limits to expression and representation, and I find that even more salient now as I try to describe the scene from The Quiraing. Someone jokingly remarked that it reminded her of The Land before Time. A humourous comparison certainly, but true on so many levels. It was an almost primordial, transcendental landscape we'd chanced upon. Save for the wind and the rain, there was also a remarkable and yawning quiet in the air which seemed to just go on for miles and miles. It seemed like nothing could have dared interrupted it. The scene was majestic and just utterly grand. There are no other words for it.
2. Faerie Glen
Faerie Glen lies somewhere off the village of Uig. If The Quiraing is commanding and almost regal, then Faerie Glen is its absolutely charming and dare I say, cute sibling. The rain had stopped by the time we reached the Glen, so we took the opportunity to stretch our legs and go for a little hike up the numerous, conical hills which dot the Glen landscape. The Glen offered a pretty easy walk - it wasn't as flat as the online guides claimed, but it was certainly manageable and very enjoyable. This is coming from someone who usually does not like hiking and most physical activity! But I was literally hopping from place to place in Faery Glen, and scrambling to get over the next hill...and the next...and the next...
Good times. Slipped quite a bit in the mud, and ended up with a sore arm the next morning (while breaking my fall). But for this, I'd say worth 10 slips in the mud and torn jeans - which incidentally, one in our party suffered. Again I stress with some hints of regret: come to Scotland with good, sturdy shoes, and then pray for dry weather.
3.The Old Man of Storr
From Faerie Glen, we doubled back to Staffin and headed down toward the direction of Portree to catch a glimpse of this famous rock pinnacle. Something worth mentioning along the way was the beautiful Staffin Bay. I hadn't expected it to look so lovely but it did. Sadly didn't get my camera out on time, and it was obscured by roadside trees in a matter of seconds, but definitely an image that will stay with me for some time.
A picture of The Storr, a series of rocky hills, as taken from inside the car. The Old man of Storr is the sharp-ish looking outcrop on the extreme right of the picture!
We parked and walked through a forest path to get to the base of the Storr. The forest was really pretty. It is exactly the kind of forest you'd imagine an Enid Blyton story would be set in. Perhaps I ought to thank the rain, because it left the forest with a very enchanting and misty quality; I almost expected wood nymphs to pop up someplace!
For the hiking-averse, you'll be pleased to know that the Storr forest is extremely user-friendly. The path is broad and very clearly defined. It's also pretty flat, and easy to walk. Once you exit the forest however, its an ascending path all the way up to the Old Man of Storr, with several loose rocks littering the way. Again, sturdy shoes are paramount.
Vertigo hit me halfway up the climb, so I stopped and took a rest while the others went up. Enjoyed really really nice views of the forest and rocky path down below, and the sea just beyond. Like the scene at the Quiraing, it was shot through with an almost unnatural stillness and calm. The sun was out by this time, so it was quite comfortable just sitting there enjoying the view.
Eventually descended. We packed back into the car and headed off for our accommodation in Broadford.
Technically the end of our 'day,' however I must make special mention of the Broadford Youth Hostel - IT WAS A MARVELOUS EXPERIENCE. There was WARM water, a spacious and clean kitchen, a reception which was open up till 10.30pm, a comfy lounge with squashy arm chairs and clean beds with no lumps. And the thing I was most impressed by was the DOUBLE CURTAIN PARTITIONING in the shower stalls! That means our clothes and bath towel were protected and kept dry while we showered! Also, even though we were not there long enough to enjoy it, the hostel was set just by the coast with nice views of the sea. I highly recommend this place to anyone stopping by the Trotternish peninsula in the Isle of Skye. Do not underestimate the difference of a good and comfortable hostel with regular heating!
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