Food Finds: Curry in a Mosque & Desserts at a Bohemian Cafe

I find it a little surprising that I managed to spend 4 hours in the library today finishing some readings for my Medieval History course. This harkens back to term time, during that dreaded 4-hour interval between my classes. I mostly passed the time cloistered up in the library because the winter weather killed any desire to venture out.

I sandwiched two eating trips between my 4-hour reading marathon. I'm determined to put to the test my current bland perception of food in the UK (outside of London). I'm happy to say that a possible conversion *might* be underway...but we'll see what the following days /weeks bring!

In the meantime, very happy to have sussed out two, relatively inexpensive food stops just a stone's throw away from campus.

First up was lunch at The Mosque Kitchen.

Yes it is literally a mosque, and you can't miss the towering minaret if you're walking along or around Potterow. Don't feel intimidated or uncomfortable if you're not there to worship; just head to the back of the compound and you'll find a cavernous tented dining area. There is a menu of halal curries, kebabs and vegetarian dishes for as low as 3 quid which is really a bargain in Edinburgh.

I ordered a chicken curry rice for 3 pound 50. You get a pretty substantial mound of steaming, fragrant basmati rice and a generous dollop of chicken curry. This meal also lasted me all the way to dinner-time, and even then I was still a little full - they aren't stingy with the rice.

As for the gravy, it is quite mild - spice fans may be disappointed. However the chicken meat is moist, juicy and satisfying. It is also possible to combine the meat with other side dishes I believe, and still fork out about 5 pounds which is relatively good value.

Of course you have to realize that the plastic cutlery, self-service and no-frills dining (outdoor seating, communal tables, plastic chairs) also contribute to the low price. But nevertheless still worth a trip I feel, if you want decent, reasonably-priced food. They also have a vegetarian menu for those interested.

Cheap and good - it's no wonder I saw so many students patronizing the place. But they weren't the only ones either!

So do come down sometime if you're on the look-out for budget-friendly and healthy-sized portions. All your money also goes straight to the Mosque and its various religious/community activities. Doesn't that make you feel good?

Balanced my savoury encounter at the Mosque Kitchen for something sweeter and lighter at The Forest which online 'zines like The Skinny had been raving about. The Forest is located along Bristo Square.

This is certainly one of the most unusual places I've stepped into. The cafe is a dingy-looking but kooky hideaway full of mismatched, second-hand tables and chairs. Food-wise, I just ordered a fruitjuice and brownie (still full of curry) which was not fantastic. The brownie was a bit hard and sweet in a very cloying sort of way. However their regular dishes might be better - they do a wide range of vegetarian meals.

What stands out about this place though, is really...the place itself. The Forest is a non-profit set-up run by volunteers - which might explain the average food. It not only houses a cafe at the back with a stage for live gigs, but also a surprising amount of space in the front, encompassing two whole rooms - one seems to be an extension of the cafe with an assortment of squashy little sofas huddled around small tables. The other room is currently an empty, white-washed space which appears to have multiple uses based on the owner's whims - workshops and exhibitions have been held at The Forest before so I'm assuming that's what the extra space is utilized as.

There are also plenty of random flyers stuck up on the walls advertising everything, including flats for rent. The Forest also seems to have a very liberal policy toward supporting local musicians - any band wishing to play at The Forest can just call ahead to book. Aspiring artists are also allowed to sell their CDs and distribute promotional material to the crowd. A list of gigs for the week is written on a chalkboard within the cafe area. Apart from live bands however the programme also includes other things like film screenings, and the rather unusual sounding "drunken" jazz/opera.

The people themselves also give The Forest a rather eccentric, quirky vibe. Sitting in the cafe, I got the distinct air of being temporally displaced to an earlier era as androgynous hippy-like characters sporting guitars sailed in and were greeted by effusive hugs from the smiling staff. The music was momentarily paused as a proud member of staff announced that 'David,' who had just arrived, had successfully completed his final year exams - news that was greeted by loud applause from the cafe-goers.

You get a very laidback, chilled out vibe at The Forest - anything seems to go here. Just sit back, relax in their poofy sofas, and enjoy the (rather loud) music. You could probably vegetate there for hours, and never feel pressured to leave or order anything. Definitely worth checking out just for the unusual atmosphere.

The Plan for the Last 22 Days

Term officially ends on 31st May, and it's possible I'll go home to Singapore after that due in part to popular request (yes Jaesson, you are the sum of the "popular requests").

Whatever the case, it's certain that I only have 22 days left in Edinburgh before I get evicted from my dorm. I have been thinking about how to occupy my time in those precious 22 days - thinking very hard indeed, oh yeesss.

So as it stands, I've more or less exhausted the 'tourist attractions' in Edinburgh - those I'm interested in anyway - and I don't think I want to visit the remainder which don't appeal to me like erh...the Edinburgh Dungeons (tacky, anyone?) Travelling out of Scotland is an option, but frankly I'm getting tired of planning trips, spending hours checking out the cheapest flights, sleeping in crappy hostels and eating equally blah food to save on a couple of Euros :( Yes, I'm spoilt that way.

Don't get me wrong, I loved my spring break, I loved my random day trips and I like exploring new places in general. But sometimes I privately wonder if I'm shortchanging my experience because I don't have enough money and time to fully take in and enjoy a place.

And then there was that whole pseudo-nihilistic moment in Madrid, which was...well a bit of a dampener.

But! In any case, I have made it my unofficial mission in the next 22 days to try and know Edinburgh beyond Frommers, Lonely Planet and Rough Guides.

I want to get into all those kooky stores I've seen on the way to school, but never had the chance to look in.

I want to sample those funky boutique cafes I've heard about, but never got around to visiting. I want to stop hanging around Nicolson Street/the Royal Mile/Princes Street and explore those little side roads and neighbourhoods I've yet to set foot in.

I want to try and glimpse a real, living culture (whatever that may be) as opposed to The 'Culture' with a capital C - the officially managed kind you find in Castles, Churches and yes, as much as I like them, public museums.

Coming from Singapore, I think the curse of settling down too comfortably in a place is that you think about it in two ways: (a) you've lived there all your life, you know everything there is to know about it, or (b) you're going to be there for the rest of your life, you'll eventually get down to checking out this place, or that place...and you never do eventually.

So in the end, you live in a place, but you never step beyond your comfort zone to truly know it inside-out. And I guess that is an ironic result of having to live there - because it's 'home,' you can never see it as something new, shiny and exotic to explore. These qualities all get projected outward, to far distant lands you have yet to encounter...

I am determined to redress this mentality in the time I still have here! So watch out Edinburgh, Jeanne's coming for you.

Best View of Edinburgh: Carlton Hill

Went up Carlton Hill yesterday for the first time. The hill lies East of Princes Street and is an extremely easy climb - perhaps climb isn't the best word actually. It's an easy walk up. Carlton Hill is very user-friendly and accessible. There are stairs which easily aid your ascent up the hill. Once you're up, you'll get what I feel is the best (free) view of Edinburgh. The 'viewing' space is also definitely better than Arthur's seat as its flat ground - no fears of being blown off a precipice. And there are plenty of interesting structures on the Hill itself to keep you occupied once you've had your fill of the Edinburgh cityscape.

But apart from the view, Carlton Hill also makes an interesting entry-point to the subject of the Scottish Enlightenment. Briefly, the Scottish Enlightenment was a movement in the 18th-century, which saw Scotland produce a staggering number of intellectuals from various fields including the sciences, philosophy, economics and literature.

But back to the present. Today, Carlton Hill is the site of a couple of interesting monuments attesting to the Scottish Enlightenment. At the foot of the hill for instance, you can pay homage to one of the stalwarts of the period:

David Hume's statue lies somewhere along the Royal Mile, but I had no idea he was buried within the city centre until yesterday. The tomb itself is quite pretty - its a simple round structure, and you can go in and pay your respects to this distinguished individual.

At the top of Carlton Hill itself, there are several kooky looking structures which appear to have been transplanted straight from Athens:


This thing on the right is a monument to Dugald Stewart whom I've learnt was another philosopher who worked during the Enlightenment era. The monument was actually modelled upon the Choragic Monument near the Acropolis, hence its rather classical appearance. This allows it to fit in perfectly with the other Greek-inspired structures including the rather imposing National Monument:

It has the mysterious appearance of being unfinished - was it based on the Parthenon in Athens? Who knows...In any case, it's quite magnificent, and you'll always see people happily scrambling up its monumental looking steps for photographs.

In all, Carlton Hill is a nice place to stretch your legs, and get a great view of Edinburgh. On the last point, I would say better than the one you get from Arthur's seat, because you can see more starkly the boundary between the Old Town and the New Town from the vantage point at Carlton Hill.

However perhaps because it is so easily accessible, the hill does seem to be in need of a clean up - closer examination of the ground reveals lots of cigarette butts and beer bottles. Evidence of the activities which go on at night I suppose.

But go in the day and I assure you the only rowdiness you'll find are from Italian and Japanese tourists all jostling to get the best shot of the cityscape.

Fruitmarket Gallery: Making Contemporary Art "Accessible"

Exhilarated after completing my History of Art paper this morning, I decided to take a walk around town, which included a visit to the Writer's Museum, and the Fruitmarket Gallery which I absolutely adored.

But first, the Writer's Museum. It's one of the surprise gems you'll find down one of the Royal Mile's many closes. The museum is located just down Lady Stairs Close, and is tucked within the stately 17th-century Stair House - a refurbished period residence which still retains some original fixtures including a 'trick stair'! Not telling you what it is - go see for yourself! Suffice to say that it was a primitive sort of burglar alarm!


The museum is dedicated to the 3 writers who have been principally associated with Scottish literature - no not J.K. Rowling. Rather, the dazzling trio are Robert Burns the 'Caledonian Bard,' Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.

The museum houses memorabilia pertaining to the three writers. There are hand-written letters to publishers, first editions of their books with annotations in the margins, and a fine collection of their personal belongings. In particular, someone must've had a magpie complex as far as Stevenson was concerned! The museum has everything right down to a lock of his hair, his walking stick, his boots and the mahogany bed stand which stood at the foot of the bed he was born in! Interestingly enough, it also acquired a cabinet which once stood in Stevenson's bedroom, and was crafted by none other than the infamous Deacon Brodie - the inspiration behind Stevenson's Dr Jekyll and My Hyde.

I'd recommend this museum for huge fans of the writers. Otherwise it's an interesting stop for all those keen to know a little more about the giants in Scottish literary history. However I would say that the museum contributes quite a bit to the whole quasi-deification of these writers - particularly Burns and Scott. No doubt there are strong arguments for their contributions to Scottish literature (and beyond), however I can't help but wonder if its a case of too much hype, especially after seeing Burn's profile plastered on everything from pub windows to T-shirts in Edinburgh.

It is also interesting to note the museum's pointed silence on the less-than-positive reviews Scott gained after his death - including charges that he had essentially manufactured an overly sentimentalized, sugar-coated view of Scotland for the world. I don't think the museum is bound to agree with these criticisms, but it is strange that they did not even address them as an undeniable (if unfortunate) part of his legacy.

Following which, I pressed onward to the Fruitmarket Gallery on Market Street. I've been meaning to go for some time, and since I was in the vicinity - why not!

The Fruitmarket Gallery is a contemporary art space which espouses a rather ambitious philosophy on its website:

"The Fruitmarket Gallery aims to make contemporary art accessible, without compromising art or under-estimating audiences. The Gallery presents world-class, thought-provoking and challenging art made by both Scottish and international artists in an environment that is welcoming, engaging, informative and always free."

Does it match up?

Currently, the Fruitmarket Gallery is housing an exhibition of selected photography and film by Irish artist, Willie Doherty. The main highlights are the two films on the lower level: "Ghost Story" (2007) which was premiered at the Venice Biennale; and "Buried" (2009) which was specially made for this exhibition.

Of the two, I preferred "Ghost Story," even though "Buried" is a good work in its own right. My take on "Ghost Story" is that it's a mesmerizing journey through the individual and shared memory of violence in Northern Ireland. The film cleverly defers confrontation with any actual 'ghosts,' although you get the sense that the narrator is haunted by the inexorable knowledge of bloodshed and pain which saturates the landscape. The build-up of suspense and fear is masterful, accentuated by a chillingly dispassionate voice-over. The voice-over in turn, profoundly impacts the viewer's engagement with the visuals. Indeed, at certain points of the film, I was led to feel that I could indeed see 'ghosts.' Scary!

So I was generally impressed by the Doherty exhibition. What was also welcoming, was the room on the second floor featuring a short 13-minute filmed interview with Doherty as he explains the motivations behind his works. The room also contains various books pertaining to Doherty's film projects, thus providing various interpretive 'tools' for the visitor. To me, this certainly lived up to the Fruitmarket Gallery's stated aim of making contemporary art 'accessible' as opposed to alienating (as it often is). Cheers to that! To their credit, I did come out of the gallery knowing more about Willie Doherty and his creative response to the contemporary problems in Northern Ireland.

So top on my recommendations list this week: The Fruitmarket Gallery! And definitely check out "Ghost Story" if you can! It is truly chilling.

Observing the Scottish Parliament

So I open with a question that I've been nursing ever since my first glimpse of the Scottish Parliament building. In this day and age when anything seems to go, what makes a piece of architecture 'good' or 'bad'? How does a building ascend the unassailable ranks of the 'avant-garde,' and avoid being relegated to the plain -ugh-?

The Scottish parliament building has been beleaguered by criticisms ever since it was first unveiled in 2004. Coming to Edinburgh, I've learnt that locals have conferred upon the building a whole constellation of dubious titles. One city guide memorably called it a '400 million pound eyesore.' Ouch! Well I'll let you be the judge:

Admittedly this is one of the nicer glamour shots I managed to find online. If you look closer, you'll notice that rows of bamboo poles line the entrance, the roof and some of the windows- one of the Parliament's more bizzare features. Part of Catalan architect, Enric Miralles' vision to integrate the building with its surroundings, such that it appears to 'grow out of the land'?

In spite of the generally hostile public reception, I was interested to know that the Scottish Parliament has been feted within the architectural community. It's even received several awards! Definitely a structure that has polarized opinion.

Whatever your views on the building are, the Scottish Parliament is a visitor's attraction in its own right. And after popping by yesterday, I would strongly recommend you go not just to gawp at the soaring heights of Miralle's imagination (detractors would say insanity), but to experience what the Parliament itself houses. It's worth remembering that this monumental project is first and foremost, a triumphant symbol of Scottish home rule. The year 1997 saw Westminster agreeing to the creation of a devolved Scottish parliament - the first of its kind since Scotland's union with England in 1707. And today, anybody today can walk into Miralle's building and watch the Scottish Parliament in action, as I did two days ago.

I arrived at the premises around 10.30am and easily got a free timed ticket into the Parliament's debating chamber. I soon learnt that Thursday is the best day to visit as that's when the Parliament is in full session. You can also catch them on Wednesdays as well, but the chamber only meets for half a day then - more importantly, you'll also miss one of the most exciting parts of the parliamentary session (which I'm coming to.)

The public gallery in the debating chamber was relatively empty when I first arrived. The speakers present were debating the issue of community justice centres, from what I could catch. However closer to around 11.30am, swarms of people poured into the gallery, including a whole gaggle of school children. The sudden influx of people was explained when the Presiding Officer announced promptly at 11.40am, the start of Question and Answer time!

My timed ticket expired at 11.40am but it seemed no one was enforcing this. I consequently ended up staying till around just after 12pm, which was great because I managed to catch a little of the First Minister's Question Time - undeniably one of the most entertaining spectacles of the week. It's identical to the Prime Minister's Question Time in the House of Commons: members of parliament take turns to pose questions to the First Minister, Alex Salmond of the Scottish National Party, whilst simultaneously inserting a catty comment or two about his administration. The resulting dialogue is a lively spar with both sides jousting with clever barbs and witty retorts.


MP: ...So that said, my question to the First Minister is: Is he ignorant, or was he lying?

Presiding Officer: We will not have accusations of lying in this Chamber. I ask that you withdraw your statement, sir.

MP: Alright, I'll withdraw that but substitute it with something else. Was the First Minister ignorant... or was he economical with the truth?

Haha somehow that stuck.

If you are interested in gaining entry into the chamber to catch the First Minister's Question Time, it is advisable to book your gallery ticket ahead as it is very popular with the public. Alternatively, parliamentary proceedings are screened in various locations within the building itself. So if you can't get a ticket, you can watch the action on the medium its most suited for: a plasma screen TV.

Finally I have to say that the staff at the Scottish Parliament are one of the friendliest and most helpful I have encountered. They will take the initiative to approach you without prior prompting - whether it be to enquire if you need assistance, or to inform you that they have spare gallery tickets for Question Time. Magnificient people. I was very impressed.

Contentious appearance notwithstanding, I'd say the real debate and fireworks lie inside Miralle's creation itself. So definitely, make the Parliament one of your stops in Edinburgh.

A Taste of the Modern: Dean Gallery and Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Scottish National Modern Art Gallery - taken from the landscape lawn

So with my visit to the Dean and Modern art gallery last friday, I can now proudly say that I have visited all 5 gallery complexes under the National Galleries of Scotland!

The Dean and Modern art gallery are located all the way Northwest in Dean Village (see earlier post). The surroundings are quite beautiful - both galleries are set in the midst of parkland. The Modern art gallery itself has an interesting landscaped lawn, which is full of sinuous curves and water features - you can walk on it yourself and get a mild dizzy high while standing at the peak of the landscaped mound which overlooks the entire lawn.

Sadly, I wish the experience inside the modern art gallery had been as inspiring as its exteriors. I must qualify first that I like and support how museums and galleries are gradually evolving away from their 19th-century image as unassailable temples of reason, perpetuating linear narratives of cultural progress. At the same time, this is no excuse for a movement into post-modern chaos! Or should I say, a generally poor organization of the collection.

My main gripes with the Modern art gallery were that it included no ready floor plan (none I could see) to help orientation within the gallery space, and also poor labelling of the works - descriptions should never be repeated (or appear repetitive) even if they pertain to the same artist!

In general, I came out of the gallery feeling as if I hadn't really learnt or benefitted much as there was too little of the right information, and a weak sense of narrative coherence suggested between the different exhibits in the permanent collection.

The highlight for me though, was finally getting to see in person the handiwork of the infamous Damien Hirst. Frankly speaking, I was not impressed by some of Hirst's works. Call me ignorant or unappreciative of contemporary art, but I don't think an enlarged periodic table should be taking up so much space in an art gallery. Its significance (to me) seems to be drawn from the fact that it once hung in Hirst's restaurant, rather than from any intrinsic artistic or cultural value. It did not draw or engage me into any deeper kind of contemplation either.

Some works of Hirst which I did like however, included "Trinity: Pharmacology, Physiology, Pathology" which is a contemporary and rather playful take on a medieval triptych. I also quite liked his sculpture, "Wretched War" which was disturbing, but nevertheless compelled a powerful emotive response. From what I gather based on the exhibited works, some themes Hirst repeatedly engages is the tenuous interface between life and death, and an observation of the quasi-devotional significance society places on drugs and medicines (reflected best I thought, in "Trinity") At the same time, I don't think he deserves to have so many rooms devoted to him, compared to the other individual artists who were featured. Neither do I think that these fascinating ideas are best explored through animals suspended in vitrine. That's my opinion anyway.

The Dean gallery next door was a better experience for me. If you do go there I would recommend heading straight up to the current exhibition featuring '4 Scottish artists.'

In particular, I enjoyed viewing the small but fascinationg collection of works attributed to John Bellany. They make the Gallery well worth a trip. Check out his interpretation of the Crucifixion scene in 'Allegory.' It is a provoking work that fuses Christological imagery with scenes of realism drawn from Bellany's own experience growing up in a rural fishing community. Really quite something altogether.

Alright have to scoot off now world - ta ta!

Things to Sink Your Teeth Into (Quite Literally)

1. Sink your Teeth into...Dental Care in Edinburgh

So if you're coming to Edinburgh and planning to hang around for a bit like myself, do the right thing and get registered for healthcare services.

This might be quite intuitive for some, but coming from Singapore where I'm used to waltzing into the 24-hour clinic at Clementi and expecting next-to-immediate attention, this was a minor (okay, a major) annoyance.

Getting registered at your nearest GP or dentist at the earliest possible date saves you precious waiting time when you have an emergency.

If you're a future student coming to the University of Edinburgh, make the Richard Verney Health Centre on campus one of your first stops - persist and double-check if the counter staff say registering is unnecessary (as they did to me in January). It is necessary as I found out 4 months later.

On the bright side, not registering in this case isn't such a big deal - they'll simply ask you to come about half an hour before your appointment to fill in your details. However, what's a bummer is if you're in need of dental care - the University does not have any dental services on campus so you'll have to scout around for the nearest dental clinic near you.

So the long and short of it was that I experienced major tooth-achage in my wisdom tooth on the eve of my Spain trip. I survived the holiday taking Ibruprofen and gargling with salt water. By the time I returned to Edinburgh it had subsided but I thought it would be a good idea to get it checked out just in case. So I called up the nearest dental clinic, which promptly informed me that I would have to be registered. Shockingly, the earliest appointment they could arrange was in a month's time, unless my case constituted an 'emergency' (ie: serious pain)

However she kindly directed me to Chalmers Dental Centre on 3 Chalmers Street (near Tollcross), which is a clinic for individuals who are not registered with any dental practice, and who might need immediate attention.

If you do end up making a visit to Chalmers Dental Centre, here are some things to note:

i. Go as early as you can. I arrived at the clinic around 10.20am and filled in some forms about my medical history. Half an hour later, I was attended to by a nurse who recorded my symptoms and assessed my situation, before referring me to one of the clinic's dentists. The wait-time in between the nurse and the dentist was at least an hour. It's first come first served, so obviously the earlier you go, the further in front of the line you'll be. And yes, the clinic is busy.

ii. Service: Once you finally get to meet the dentist, the service is generally friendly and professional. I felt like I was in fairly safe hands during the entire procedure - though that might've been helped by the anaesthetic injections which numbed me to any pain!

The gum area around my wisdom tooth was cleaned to prevent further incidences of local infection. Some anti-bacterial gel was also applied to the affected area. The entire procedure cost just 6 pounds.

iii. Patient after-care: Another difference between the UK and Singapore is that medicine is not dispensed within the clinics. The doctor will give you a prescription, but you have to make a trip to the nearest pharmacy in order to pick up the required medication. Again this can be a bummer.

Perhaps this separation of the clinic and pharmacy explains why patient after-care is slightly lacking. For one, I wish the dentist had prescribed me some good pain-killers. The pain after the anaesthetic wore out was truly terrible (I hadn't expected it) and even the ibruprofen I had didn't help. It largely ebbed by the next morning although the area remained sore and tender.

The dentist handed me a slip of paper with the name of an anti-bacterial gel (corsodyl), but no explicit instructions were given on how to use it. So clarify all doubts before leaving the clinic to ensure you have as much information as possible. The pharmacist will be able to answer your questions but obviously having treated you, the dentist would be better-placed and more well-informed about your situation.

2. Sink your Teeth into...A Tasty Tandoori Treat

So a week later, my tooth has fully healed. No more gnashing of teeth, it's time to celebrate with a proper meal!

I headed down to Kebab Mahal on Nicolson Square, a small sit-down restaurant specializing in traditional Tandoori dishes. Kebab Mahal's been around for about 20 years now, so that's something you have to respect. The menu is also entirely halal.


I ordered a Shish Kebab which came with a side of salad (mainly onions as pictured), and a slice of naan. The naan was not particularly memorable, however the meat was excellent. Cubes of juicy, flavourful beef coated in a bright red sauce - I don't exactly know what the sauce consisted of but it does make your tongue tingle quite literally. And it is rather intense I must say! Order a lassi (cold yoghurt-based drink) to temper the spice.

All in all, a satisfying meal can be had for 3 pounds. Go if you want a zing unattainable from the comparatively (dare I say?) bland flavours of English food - this is sure to whet your appetite! Although note the closure of the restaurant on Fridays from noon to 1pm for afternoon prayers.

Edinburgh's Best Kept Secret: Water of Leith Walkway

The wonderful thing about Edinburgh is that it's a city you can never truly exhaust. Beyond the obvious attractions, it holds many surprises if you give it a chance. Always keep your eyes peeled for the discreet detours. And don't be afraid to jump down the rabbit-hole - you might just land up in your own little wonderland.



I went off to Dean Village last Friday, to make my long-awaited trip to the Modern Art gallery. Dean Village is roughly 20 minutes by foot from the City centre. Start from Princes Street, and head North-west; you'll segue nicely from the impenetrable mass of shoppers to rows of sweet, well-tended residences which sit snugly along Belford Road. It's a nice place by itself to stroll around.

The museum lies somewhere down Belford Road, but what's inside it is a subject for another time. As you cross the road to enter the museum grounds, you might notice a sign by the side of the road:

Head down the wooden flight of stairs which lead to the Water of Leith Walkway. I have a feeling you won't regret it.

You'll find yourself on a little pathway right next to the river. Trees on either side of the Water of Leith enclose you in a quiet, contemplative world where the only sounds are the footfalls of the occassional jogger - muffled by the soft, mossy ground - and of course, the whimisical bubbling of the water as it makes its way down the river bed. It's picturesque, enchanting and a wonderful place to just wander along and get away from it all.

I've since learnt that the walk way extends for quite a distance, and leads all the way to Leith. I only walked a smidgen of it on Friday, before making a detour to get back home before dark. If I could, I would definitely go back again and attempt to cover the entire length of the walkway!

So if ever you need some respite from city life (not that Edinburgh's stressful actually), head straight to the water. Just stand there and take all the time you need to soak it in. You'll be charmed.

A Giddy Start to March: Scaling Arthur's Seat

It rises majestically into the horizon - strong, silent, formidable. It's a mecca for hikers, climbers and other sports enthusiasts. It's a breathtaking taste of romantic highland landscape right smack in the middle in Edinburgh.

Arthur's Seat is the crown jewel of Holyrood park. Its the highest point of a cluster of now dormant volcanic hills, and a popular spot to visit if you want the privilege of exercising or walking your dog, whilst enjoying the 'View' with a capital V. For us (long-term) tourists, scaling Arthur's seat is also a rite-of-passage of sorts, and reaching the peak brings with it an inevitable sense of accomplishment, sweetened by unparalleled views of the city.

So having been assured by Arthur's-seat-veteran, Luke, that the hill is indeed easily scalable, I embarked with some friends for my own journey up to the peak on a cloudy Sunday morning. Some impressions:

1. The Climb: There are a variety of ways to scale the hill, some of which are quite challenging (requiring you to literally climb using all-fours), and some of which are more suitable for the less-athletic. Falling miserably into the latter category, we took what was supposedly the most gentle ascent up to the peak which lasted for about an hour.


The route was not insurmountable, but not a cake walk either (for me anyway). I cautiously encountered rocky and slippery footpaths, in addition to exceedingly strong winds when closer to the top. I learnt after some mild heart-attack inducing moments that small, crab-like steps are the way to go when descending the peak. If you're going up in winter, wear a coat or a pair of jeans which you don't mind getting dirty - Pei xin and I overcame the steeper parts by simply sitting down and carefully lowering ourselves till we got a good foothold. Good shoes with grip are a must. Curse my Keds!


2. The View

The view accompanying the climb up to (and down from) Arthur's seat makes the journey well worth it. Along the way we sighted:


A picturesque Loch. I forget the name sadly.



Luxuriant and verdant stretches of field which just entice you to lie on them - and indeed one in our party tumbled down the hills literally (and voluntarily), happily cushioned by the incredibly thick and soft grass.


Rugged landscapes which are truly impressive especially when bathed in the mid-day sun; the light throws into breathtaking relief all their dramatic crags and contours. Definitely try to go up on a sunny day. You'll get so much more out of it.



And of course, a bird's eye view of the city which stretches all the way to the Firth of Forth. Careful you don't get swept away when taking that perfect shot though. The winds are scarily strong right at the peak.


Descended and left Arthur's Seat close to noon-time. I'm glad I went up (finally), but I don't think I'll do it again. Just a little too much excitement and activity for a self-confessed couch-potato with a fear of heights. But for all who don't mind a spot of hiking, leave your dainty shoes behind and go for it!

Lost and Found in the New Town: An Afternoon in Pictures

Decided to take a walk on Monday afternoon around the New Town in Edinburgh. I didn't have any destination, but I thought I would try and pass the famed George Street. Well, famed for different reasons. It's named after an English monarch for one. It was also designed as the city's main thoroughfare till Princes Street claimed that position. But for most of my schoolmates, George Street is simply known for the posh clubs along the stretch.

And so it was at George Street that I began my rather modest walk in the heart of New Town.

The street itself is nothing exceptional, save for the monument to James Clerk Maxwell, a Scottish physicist. Maxwell presides at the head of George's Street, and I've since learnt that this monument was only unveiled in November last year.

An interesting fact about Edinburgh is that you can't walk 50 steps without bumping into a statue of one of the city's many illustrous sons (sadly, haven't seen any daughters yet). A local mentioned this once, which I think is fairly true: you don't see relatively many statues commemorating great generals, founding fathers or political figures - ie: those in the big, grand equestrian mould! There are however, a prolific number of intellectual and cultural figures immortalized including Sir Walter Scott, John Knox, David Hume and Adam Smith. Make of this what you will.

Incidentally, if you look carefully at Maxwell's feet, you'll see his dog Toby as well! Apparently Maxwell was famed for talking to Toby about his scientific theories.



Ah. Whynot. An apt name for a place where the beautiful people go to drink, make merry and toss restraint out of the window. Why not indeed? One of the clubs I keep hearing about but have yet to check out.



Walking further, I entered St Andrews Square Garden and encountered this magnificent column. It is truly quite a sight, if only because of its immense height which makes it visible all the way from the head of George Street. It's a tribute to Henry Dundas, the first Viscount Melville who died some 200 years back. Check out the inscription at the base of the column.



The name might make you do a double-take. Yes, Robert Stevenson was the grandfather of the other more famous individual who shared his name - Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde fame!



Hung around at the Gardens for a while, snapping photos and people-watching. And then I was off to ...nowhere in particular. Along my journey, I transited at:



The nicely-paved Multrees Walks which is a boulevard of fashion. It has a quiet, genteel air about it unlike the animated buzz along Princes Street. Multrees is cool, trendy, and luxuriating in boutique outlets, counting Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton as permanent residents.



Don't be fooled by its non-descript and somewhat underwhelming appearance. The Stand, on York Street, is one of Scotland's premier stand-up comedy clubs. Have been meaning to go for ages. With tickets starting as low as 2 pounds ('Red Raw' beginners' nights), why not?


Whilst looking for Queen's Street, I accidently chanced upon this narrow sideroad which opened up into a small but charming little square, known as Findlay Court. It was sandwiched between two buildings, one of which I assumed to be a red-bricked church.

It was only after I exited the courtyard that I realized the 'church' was in fact the Scottish National Portrait Gallery! It has a really venerable and intricate facade, complete with gothic arches and fancy niches filled with sculptures. The inner foyer is just as lovely, affirming the resemblance to a lavish cathedral. The balustrades are adorned with this amazing fresco-like artwork, which depicts some kind of procession. The second-floor walls have painted murals on them, while the stairways contain lovely arched, stained-glass windows. The pictures below do no justice to the gallery at all!




Do you spy the unmistakeable likeness of Queen Victoria in the stained glass?

Gorgeous. Something else I love about the gallery is its colours - everything from the striking red sandstone facade, to the unusual but lovely pairing of warm, pinkish-rose walls and green (bordering on teal) carpeted floors. And the portrait collection itself is really quite fascinating. I never thought portraiture could be all that interesting, but I think I have changed my mind especially after browsing the more contemporary works on the 2nd floor. The My favourite work was titled Three Oncologists:

Strange, surreal. It's almost hypnotic. I love the play on light in this picture, and how it makes the figures look almost spectral. Do go visit the gallery if you can, but before April 2009. The gallery will be shut from then till 2011 as it undergoes renovation...though why they want to refurbish such an amazing building I do not know. Sigh.

And so that's how I accidently found myself on Queen Street, within the plush interior of one of the prettiest galleries I've ever encountered. Certainly a visit which was well worth the walk, even though I hadn't intended to stumble across it. But that lends the experience a spontaneous beauty itself I suppose.

The gallery marked a fitting endpoint to my rather long, rambly walk and now (since I'm tired), a close to this equally long, rambly post. Thanks for walking with me :)

Of Flowers and Peppermint Tea

A sign that the seasons are a-changing.

Chanced upon Princes Street Gardens today, and was greeted by a lovely sight: the gardens in bloom!




Quite a riot of colours. I'm looking forward to Spring weather.

A quiet and generally uneventful day. But I think the sight of flowers after 3 weeks of dreary weather was somewhat rousing and I might even say...inspiring?

So continuing the resolution I made yesterday (yes I will blog about it soon), I made a conscious decision this afternoon to choose against my natural instincts. The results whilst not dramatic, did beget pleasing results.

So instead of heading back to the Library to polish up my Art history essay, I decided to linger on indefinitely at the Gardens and Princes Street.

And instead of finding some nice heated indoor venue to have my lunch, I decided for once to sit out amidst the lovely flowers with book in hand, whilst slowly savouring my bacon and egg croissant.

Eschewing my natural honing instincts to window shop at Zara, Topshop and H&M, I wandered down one of the sideroads and ended up at a cosy Italian cafe - a warm hamlet filled with the smell of coffee. I sat there in a somewhat sleepy daze, overlooking the crowd down on Princes Street, with Jazz notes happily muffling the sound of the street bustle.

Suspending disbelief, I finally got down to ordering a Peppermint flavoured tea, which I have always predicted would taste of toothpaste. It wasn't as bad as I thought, and proved a satisfying accompaniment to my read.


Well. Not to idealize the day. You know I hate people who romanticize. The sun, having gloriously illuminated the Gardens when I was snapping photos, suddenly decided to retreat behind ominous looking clouds halfway through my croissant.

The book I was reading turned out to be incredibly racist (Prester John, John Buchanan. O.M.G.) and had an appalling ending involving sloppy praise for 'the white man's burden.'

And halfway through my peppermint tea, I began to be tempted by the frothy mug of Hot Chocolate my neighbour was having.

But definitely I would say, one of my better and more restful weekday afternoons so far.

The Real Mary King's Close

A couple years back when on holiday, I chatted with a member of my tour group who happened to be a fairly well-travelled student. A first-year at Oxford, she had just visited Auschwitz, and spoke about it with an almost unnatural enthusiasm. She pronounced it 'very cool,' and said I absolutely had to go there. I found it mildly disturbing that she spoke of an ex concentration camp with the air of one describing a ride on Space Mountain.

But I guess everyone feels an innate and inexplicable draw toward the dark and macabre. Murder, torture, insanity - all repulsive and all consequently fascinating. You have to wonder why the tourism of death continues to draw millions. Everyone likes gazing at the blacker side of life when its sealed up in a glass exhibition case. Sometimes its contents continue to evoke shock, pathos and the sense that a real atrocity has happened. I'm thinking of things like the human hair exhibit in the Washington D.C. Holocaust museum (I believe there's a similar one in Auschwitz), or the bones and soiled rags lying littered across the killing fields of Cheong Ek. In other cases, perhaps the horror is somehow more palatable, or its been so far removed it's simply been domesticated into...just another Disneyland?

So it was in Edinburgh's own street of death - the now subterranean Mary King's Close, which has gained infamy for its association with the devastating plague in Edinburgh. But somehow we don't think of one of the worst plagues in European history as on par with more recent cases of human genocide, do we?** Interesting thing to think about.



A 'close' refers to an extremely narrow lane, which usually has residences on either side. Mary King's I am told, was one of the more popular closes off the Royal Mile in the 17th-century - now the main thoroughfare in Edinburgh. The requisite myth goes, that when the residents of Mary King'swere infected with the Plague during the 16th-century, the entire close was walled up to prevent the pestilence from spreading and the sad residents...well, left to die either of plague or starvation. Is there any truth in that? Who knows?

In any case, the close is now sealed off and lies underneath the City Chambers. And I suppose the contrast between the rather posh Royal Mile government building and the gritty close which lies underneath it is something the management has latched upon. Discover the 'hidden' and dark side of Edinburgh as it were! (For 9 pounds)

Trying to look scared but failing.

So come Saturday, we set off for a one-hour guided tour of the famed Mary King's, which has apparently featured on Britain's Most Haunted. It's apparently also a popular spot for psychics and mediums to commune with the restless dead, but you wouldn't really sense that from the brochure which looked campy enough. Incidentally, it featured pictures of guides dressed up in what I presumed was medieval-esque garb...although I really doubt all 17th-century men went around in lavish plumed hats!

The tour itself was really quite entertaining although our guide (a 'medieval aristocratic woman') had this annoying habit of leading us into darkened rooms and turning around suddenly and going 'BOO!' We got a look around the various tenements (these little connected rooms) on Mary King's including the oldest preserved house on the stretch - literally held up by various sturdy-looking poles. We walked up the close itself which is really not all that long a street, but it is extremely steep with wide grooves on either side - presumably meant for people to dump their sewage in those days before flushable toilets were invented! I think the main attraction for me however was the guide and the very interesting stories she regaled us with throughout the tour - to put it very crudely, ghost stories if you will. But don't you remember how those used to enthrall us when we were kids? That really made the tour if I may say, because visually it's mostly just a lot of similar-looking darkened rooms with 'mood' lighting (flickering lights and not-so-discreet exit signs haha). Seeing the actual close itself was kind of cool though.

I also found the historical bits of the story quite engaging. The 'tour narrative' focuses primarily on 3 things: i) witch-hunts, ii) the plague, iii) ghosts. Number iii is a given, but I was quite impressed with the 'plague' section which was in essence, my Medieval history lecture on the Black Death condensed! Well nice to know there's some substance there.

My parents might be going on this tour (based on my review haha), so I won't spoil it all for them if they do opt for it, but suffice to say there were some rather creepy moments one of which I'm not sure was entirely staged. Great fun if you go with a bunch of friends. You can take turns scaring each other. The atmosphere (and the cold) certainly lends itself to that.

Overall, it was certainly quite interesting. Not sure if it was entirely worth 9 pounds. Edinburgh castle was about 10pounds, and it offered about a whole day's worth of sight-seeing as opposed to just 1 hour. But it was an experience nevertheless.

**An interesting fact which I cannot help slipping in! Excuse my bookwormishness. The plague in Europe was actually blamed on the Jews at one point of time. Paranoid medieval folk in some quarters believed in a 'Jewish conspiracy' and thought resident Jews had poisoned the wells and were thus responsible for the plague. This resulted in a way of anti-semitism across certain parts of Europe, at times involving the expulsion of Jews from the city, or at its worst, mob killings.

Valentine's Day: Lingering by Leith...

I think I can say with some confidence now that I have conquered Edinburgh length-wise.

Woke up to a leisurely Saturday morning and headed off with a bunch of friends to celebrate our own version of Valentine's day away from home. We had the somewhat brilliant but crazy plan of walking all the way to Leith, the Northernmost district of Edinburgh. The coastline of Leith hugs the Firth of Forth, which sounded dreamy to me. I love being near water bodies whether they be rivers, lakes and oceans. And besides, there's something inherently romantic about standing at the border where land simply dissolves into water, and opens up into an expansive, sun-streaked horizon.

At the same time however, the romantic Firth was a good 1.5 hour walk away from Pollock, which is way down South. And in addition to making our pilgrimage to Leith, we also embarked on a 2 hour 'scenic' stroll while there, covering Leith Walk, Commercial Street, the Harbour and Bernard Street, before hopping down to Ocean's terminal for some window shopping. So having been on my feet for the past 6 hours, I'm still undecided whether today's walkaton is something to be proud of, or something I'll look back on tomorrow (with aching feet) and go "what on earth..."

But nevertheless, it was Valentine's Day and such a special occasion does merit special activities.

Highlights of the day (apart from the gruelling walk):

1. A Good Lunch - Finally!

After weeks of sneaking out bread from the Pollock dining hall for lunch, it was amazing to finally have a good sit-down meal which I could actually eat with fork and spoon. Small luxuries which are never appreciated till you have to be content with cold rolls stuffed with leftover scrambled eggs from breakfast!

You might think I'm making it out to be worse than it sounds. However I dare say, you'd feel the same if you'd been eating the same thing for 5 whole weeks. And I must confess, I really like my food. I don't (and certainly can't) demand high standards for every meal, but I feel that in an ideal world, eating should be an experience, not a mere matter of subsistence.

Well, no gourmet food today obviously. I know my limits fiscally. But I did take great pleasure in treating myself to a hot meal of meatball linguine, followed by a decadent and sinfully delicious chocolate fudge cake treat topped with condensed milk, syrup and vanilla ice cream. The photo does not do it justice at all.


Best ever. And all for the grand price of 5 pounds 40 pence. We Pollockers rejoiced.

2. Views of the Firth of Forth

We tried to spy the Royal Yacht Britannia from the 2nd floor viewing platform at Ocean's Terminal. The angle was somewhat disappointing given how half the ship was obscured, but nevertheless I was able to gaze upon the vast expanse of the Firth which was somewhat calming and restful.





Am unsure what that strange red contraption is, but it looked a lot more interesting than the Royal Yacht which kind of just sits there. I also wonder about the buildings on the other side of the Firth. Who lives there? What do they do? Would I be able to go visit?

3. Sights around the Water of Leith

The rather unimaginatively named Water of Leith is a river which flows through Leith and opens up into the Firth of Forth. This charming river is surrounded by these rather spacious, cobblestone walkways which reminded me a little of Clarke Quay back home in Singapore. There are also interesting, eyecatching structures on the river banks which made for quite a pleasant sight and subsequent camwhoring - a tendency, Simona claims, is endemic amongst girls and Asians.


Walking past the Water of Leith earlier in the day...


Returning to the River sometime later as the sun was setting


All in all, a quiet and picturesque place. I would love to come back one day when the weather is less cloudy, and to just soak up the atmosphere around the Water of Leith. However next time I think I'll give my feet a break and hop on the nearest bus!

4. Impromptu Poetry Session

Valentine's Day excuses a lot of things, including amateurs bursting out into moments of poetic inspiration while walking along the coast. Well, somewhat inspired anyway - we had a little poetry contest amongst ourselves, following a predetermined literary template set by Felyna which went as such:

I am __________,
You are ________,
_____________ end
_____________ my friend.

(Rules: poem has to include the word "sea")

My on-the-spot nautical-inspired contribution, which I am somewhat embarassed to type out:

"I am the sailor/You are the harbour/And just as the sea has no end,/So too, my journey to you, my friend."

Hilarious. I would never dare say this to anyone in all seriousness.



So that concludes my eventful day. Will spend tomorrow working on my essay - one of my two essays sadly - and giving my limbs a break from all the walking hours I've accumulated this week. In the meantime, Happy Valentine's Day y'all!

Musings about Museums

Yet another post today in an attempt to archive a backlog of events and activities since last weekend!

Well as everyone might know, I absolutely love going to museums... with the possible exception of those dedicated to war or military history. So you must humour me now while I do the mandatory gushing.

A good museum or gallery can have me for the entire day, and even some of the more minor ones can keep me entertained for at least a couple of hours. I like the feeling of contemplative silence in (most) museums ie: those without children. And yes, as odd as it sounds, I adore dusty old things, and even more so what museums can do to them; I think its really fascinating how an unremarkable bit of pottery can be transformed into an object of sacerdoctal reverence when placed in a glass case. It's suddenly furnished with say, a thousand years' worth of history and significance...and in the course of finding that out, you too, develop a new way of looking and thinking about it.

So in my first couple of weeks here, the National Museum of Scotland and the National Galleries were no-brainers on my list of places to visit - and I do highly recommend them, not simply because they're both free, but because the collections are quite excellent. I especially liked the Madonna and Child pieces by Raphael in the Galleries' permanent collection, and I'm sure you will too! I'm no art conoisseur but hey - who can resist a bright palatte?

This past week however saw trips to museums dedicated to rather odd and somewhat unconventional subjects which I want to spend some time describing. First up on Sunday was the Museum of Childhood.


One of the first museums dedicated to the subject of childhood. I'm quite embarassed to say that I've been meaning to go to similar museums in Singapore including the MINT Museum of Toys for the longest time but I just never got down to doing it. Perhaps it was the S$15 admission fee at MINT which always put me off. But in any case, Edinburgh marks the first time I've stepped into a museum which houses the paraphernalia of childhood, and nothing else. It's been highly recommended by several guidebooks I've come across, so when Fel suggested we take a trip down to the Royal Mile to check it out - why not?


Some things I liked:

The first gallery you walk into when you enter the museum provides a historical overview of childhood (in Britain) which is really quite informative. There are sections devoted to things like feeding, play and education, and how attitudes to these sorts of things which we now consider integral to a child's welfare have changed quite remarkably since the 18th-century. However I was disappointed with how all this rather fascinating information was presented through cluttered and long descriptive labels which were (horrors) not even at eye level...some of them hovered somewhere around the hip. Good content, poor display. A pity really.

But moving on to other good things. I think it's a sign that I'm getting old when I experience moments of nostalgia in this sort of museum.


I saw the exact same set of Beatrix Potter books which I used to own as a child! Peter Rabbit, The Tailor of Glouscester...ah familiar names, familiar characters. Now I wonder whatever happened to my own set of Beatrix Potter books?

I might add that it is rather strange to see objects from your own life being encased in a museum exhibit.



And finally this does deserve a bit of a special mention. It's a 'board' game (even though its printed on paper) which is dubiously termed the 'Reward of Merit.' As you might have guessed from the title , it's an absolutely didactic Victorian game which both amused and appalled me with the little boxes players have to travel through en route to the final box termed (you guessed it) 'The Reward of Merit'! Box 24 is entitled 'The Truant,' and woe betide you if you happen to land there, because apparently "you justly merit woe, pay one, and to the Dungeon go." And of course to hammer the lesson in, players may not be released from the "Dungeon" till another player ends up there. You would of course be safer landing up in a box like number 4 entitled "The Gardener." However you'd have to put up with rather revolting little rhymes which go something like "plant what is good, root out what is bad / Then you'll become a charming lad!"

I think in all, a very quaint little place - and I don't mean that in a belittling sense. It's definitely not the kind of museum with sophisticated displays, fancy lighting or plush carpets. It's somewhat messy, with an oddball collection ranging from luncheon meat cans to the report card of an 8-year-old Victorian schoolboy. But it is after all a museum about childhood, and it is quite consciously targeted at children (and their frazzled parents), with little activity corners complete with dress-up stations and puppets. So in that sense, it is certainly not intimidating. If you're the type that scoffs museums as elitist and inacessible, try this one on a free Sunday afternoon!


Visited quite a different type of museum the very next day. I didn't bring my camera along, but I suppose that's just as well - it's not a museum you should step into just before tucking into a meal! I'm talking about the Surgeons' Hall Museum, which is conveniently housed within the esteemed Royal College of Surgeons on Nicolson Street! It's 3 pounds admission, and for that, you get to tour 3 very fascinating galleries, the highlight being William Playfair's Pathology museum which is home to a whole range of anatomical specimens dating back to the 18th C - all perfectly preserved and on public display. They've got everything including preserved human hearts, brains, bones (some with bullet holes still intact), eyeballs, muscles and even a jar of tapeworms and other parasites which might reside within your body. Highly recommended if you're a biology/medical student, my younger brother, or just someone with a morbid fascination with human anatomy.

The other two sections of the museum include one dedicated to the history of dentistry and the history of surgical developments and the college in Edinburgh itself. There's currently a special exhibition on sports, exercise and wellness which is frankly quite underwhelming compared to the rest of the museum. However, there's a nifty device there which allows you to try your hand at key-hole surgery - quite a test in dexterity and coordination!

Like the childhood museum, you can easily cover this in about an hour and a half...it's not that big at all. But definitely worth the 3 pounds if only to satisfy my rather perverse curiousity for the afternoon.

Other museums and galleries which I still want to visit:

1. Talbot Rice gallery
2. The People's Story
3. Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Mondy evening at Teviot Underground: Night of Laughter!

All smiles just outside the Teviot Underground

Went for a comedy show two nights ago for 3 quid. Watched a group of 4 guys who improvise onstage, ala 'Whose Line is it Anyway?' Absolutely hilarious! Plenty of laughs and happy faces around the campus bar at the Teviot Underground :)

I took quite a few videos of the Improvements (as they call themselves), but unfortunately the sound quality turned out pretty bad because they weren't using mics. But here's one anyway! See if you can make it out - this is the sketch when each of them adopted a different persona and dispensed 'advice' to members of the audience who just yelled out their various 'problems' spontaneously from the crowd. Most bizzare problem award goes to the man who claimed he was in love with a chair.

Sadly I didn't manage to catch that particular sketch on film, but the following clip sees the same personas addressing the problems of i) a flatmate watching porn in the living room and ii) (from a very enthusiastic girl at the next table) pre-mature ejaculation. I love the airy-fairy French philosopher character who claims that pre-mature ejaculation is a 'good prediction of the future,' but my favourite is the 3rd persona on the extreme left - check out his killer impression of a weedy but sexually-repressed geek! Completing the trio is the macho male persona in the middle.

Apparently the Improvements perform every Friday night at the student run Bedlam theatre just around the corner. Will catch them for future laughs!