The Plan for the Last 22 Days

Term officially ends on 31st May, and it's possible I'll go home to Singapore after that due in part to popular request (yes Jaesson, you are the sum of the "popular requests").

Whatever the case, it's certain that I only have 22 days left in Edinburgh before I get evicted from my dorm. I have been thinking about how to occupy my time in those precious 22 days - thinking very hard indeed, oh yeesss.

So as it stands, I've more or less exhausted the 'tourist attractions' in Edinburgh - those I'm interested in anyway - and I don't think I want to visit the remainder which don't appeal to me like erh...the Edinburgh Dungeons (tacky, anyone?) Travelling out of Scotland is an option, but frankly I'm getting tired of planning trips, spending hours checking out the cheapest flights, sleeping in crappy hostels and eating equally blah food to save on a couple of Euros :( Yes, I'm spoilt that way.

Don't get me wrong, I loved my spring break, I loved my random day trips and I like exploring new places in general. But sometimes I privately wonder if I'm shortchanging my experience because I don't have enough money and time to fully take in and enjoy a place.

And then there was that whole pseudo-nihilistic moment in Madrid, which was...well a bit of a dampener.

But! In any case, I have made it my unofficial mission in the next 22 days to try and know Edinburgh beyond Frommers, Lonely Planet and Rough Guides.

I want to get into all those kooky stores I've seen on the way to school, but never had the chance to look in.

I want to sample those funky boutique cafes I've heard about, but never got around to visiting. I want to stop hanging around Nicolson Street/the Royal Mile/Princes Street and explore those little side roads and neighbourhoods I've yet to set foot in.

I want to try and glimpse a real, living culture (whatever that may be) as opposed to The 'Culture' with a capital C - the officially managed kind you find in Castles, Churches and yes, as much as I like them, public museums.

Coming from Singapore, I think the curse of settling down too comfortably in a place is that you think about it in two ways: (a) you've lived there all your life, you know everything there is to know about it, or (b) you're going to be there for the rest of your life, you'll eventually get down to checking out this place, or that place...and you never do eventually.

So in the end, you live in a place, but you never step beyond your comfort zone to truly know it inside-out. And I guess that is an ironic result of having to live there - because it's 'home,' you can never see it as something new, shiny and exotic to explore. These qualities all get projected outward, to far distant lands you have yet to encounter...

I am determined to redress this mentality in the time I still have here! So watch out Edinburgh, Jeanne's coming for you.

Recalling Spain. Caution: Long-winded Meditation on Travelling included

This is a much overdue update about my short 5 day trip to Spain. Well, I have to be honest and say that it doesn’t particularly stand out as one of my favourite getaways for several reasons:

• I was on painkillers throughout most of the trip because of my tooth problems, so that was a natural dampener
• I spent one cold night sleeping on the floor of the airport, after being told ‘vamos’ repeatedly by an irate café owner
• The attractions were just alright in my estimation. In particular, Madrid turned out to be pretty disappointing –don’t stone me please, but I think it’s boring! 
• I had heard a lot about street crime in Madrid, so I was on the look-out constantly for my belongings which did breed a certain amount of stress when in crowds
• Poor weather in Barcelona, poorer bunk mates in the hostel!

At the same time, I will admit that having only briefly sampled two places – Madrid and Barcelona – it is perhaps unfair of me to make any conclusive statements about Spain in general.

I actually want to add on to that last sentence, at the risk of overanalyzing a holiday; it is precisely this inability to know a place and a culture that has been bothering me for a while now. No doubt travelling can and does ‘broaden your horizons’ – I firmly believe it is an endeavour with the potential to enlighten, enrich and transform.

Yet at the same time, how far does the business of travelling obfuscate a locality by reducing it to a fixed set of stereotypes? Tourism is after all, about the careful management of a place– if a place lacks any exotic appeal, some must be manufactured. If the destination is however, too ‘different,’ this difference must be attenuated so that it does not alienate the tourist.

So when I say I’ve been somewhere, was I really there? Or was I simply re-enacting a particular vision of the place promulgated by travel literature?

As an independent traveler, did I really have full autonomy over my own holiday, or did I choose from sanctioned routes already chosen for me?

What then, is the purpose of travelling if I wind up consuming and then, perpetuating these same myths about places?

I blame Madrid for foisting these uncomfortable thoughts upon me – but really, what else can you do whilst chilling in the Plaza de Oriente? Your mind invariably wanders, and stumbles upon these awkward questions when you’re supposed to be enjoying an afternoon siesta!

So did I end up knowing Spain and Spaniards any better? Perhaps, perhaps not.

In my mind, there are further implications of this not all of which I really want to discuss. This is something I will have to continue thinking about. For the rest of this review however, I will limit myself to the qualification that I ‘did’ Spain the way it’s spoken about and visualized from the outside – sangria, flamenco, tapas. You name it.

So recognizing that commercial tourism celebrates the creation of showpieces, I will confine myself to judging it by its same self-generated tropes:

The Land of Paella and Sangria

Yes. Paella does feature on a lot of menus in Spanish restaurants. We had our first Paella in a Madrid pub. I personally have never thought Paella inspired fireworks, and I hold firm to this view after we sampled the dish in Madrid – it was decent, but not particularly memorable.

However, we did have Paella again in a Barcelona restaurant managed by Chinese – this time we opted for Black Paella (Arros Negre), which is a variation cooked in squid ink.

I have to be perfectly honest and say I was doubtful about whether Chinese people could ‘do’ Spanish food, but the Black Paella turned out excellent and better than anything else I had tasted thus far. So this was really a case of me eating my words.



Sangria is readily available in all the bars, pubs and restaurants, and you can get a whole pitcher if you want. Of course quality, taste and even fizziness differs from place to place, so there’s obviously no consistent recipe stuck to.

As I found out while on my medication, it is a bit tricky if you try ordering anything non-alcoholic in Spanish pubs - or anything vegetarian for that matter. However, try asking for cerveza sin alcohol (beer without alcohol) and hope they have it. It tastes exactly like normal beer.

If you’re vegetarian, good luck negotiating the Spaniards’ love affair with meat. And watch the ham.

Tapas



If I could explain Tapas to a friend back home, I would say it’s a cross between Chinese dim sum and bar food. From what I understand, tapas refer collectively to a selection of appetizers served in small portions, usually shared amongst a group of friends.

And most importantly as I found out, tapas is strictly served at bars and pubs. Don’t waltz into a café or restaurant asking for a tapas menu unless you want to attract stares. And as with alcohol purchased at the bar, it is not unusual to eat tapas standing up and walking around.

So I would say it is simple, fuss-free food in an informal context. For that reason, don’t think or expect tapas to be a ‘cuisine.’ A modest plate of olives, mini sandwiches, potato salad or meatballs can alone constitute tapas. At the same time, croquettas, calamari, and slices of Iberian ham usually feature on the tapas list. Of these, I would recommend trying Iberian ham as it is pretty unique to Spain and has an excellent flavor.

Other than that, do your tapas crawl, but bear in mind the context that it is usually consumed in – tapas in general, are deemed secondary accompaniments to drinking and socializing in Spain.

The Flamenco

We’ve all heard about this dramatic dance of passion. How does it stack up?

Well, a lot of Flamenco in Spain is staged for tourists, there’s no two-ways about that. Cover charges into Flamenco clubs can consequently be pretty expensive.

When in Barcelona, we had the opportunity to attend a Flamenco and Opera performance (literally entitled Flamenco y Opera). For about 30 euros, you literally get a fusion of everything quintessentially ‘Spanish’ in the performing arts – flamenco of course, and also a rendition of the celebrated Habanera from Carmen (yes, you know which one), in addition to singing accompanied by that famous Spanish guitar.

I don’t know enough about opera to comment, and frankly it intimidates me sometimes. In any case, I was most struck by the Flamenco dancers. The choreography for the show was designed for either the male or female to take centre-stage at any one time; they did not dance together that much as a result. This produced mixed reactions – my friends had hoped to see them dance more often as a couple. However I was enthralled by the individual dances, and in particular, how much passion and strength the female dancer exhibited singularly. She was sensual without coming across as a sex object – a rare combination today I feel. She exuded power, confidence and dignity – all without the help of a man. Bravisimmo!

Sunshine and Beaches

Spain is no doubt warmer than where I’m currently at. But no, it’s not all sun and fun. There are beaches in Barcelona which are excellent for surfing, however not everyday’s a perfect beach day. Always go prepared for dreary, wet weather especially in spring time.

While wet weather plans are essential in Barcelona, you might need similar ones in Madrid – not to escape the rain, but rather, the dry, oppressive heat. Madrid is known for its art museums, so I suggest you head right down to either The Prado or the Reina Sofia (if you like modern art) on those unbearably hot afternoons.

Gaudi in Barcelona

Barcelona tourism has a lot to thank Antonio Gaudi for. His inventive and often surreal architectural creations are the city’s main draws, and I believe Barcelona is one of the few places where a construction site is considered a local symbol. Gaudi’s unfinished Sagrada Familia attracts millions, and I will admit that the exterior is astounding to behold. However I had doubts about paying 13 euros to view the interior which I understand, after reading online reviews, is mostly covered in scaffolding.


Apart from the Sagrada Familia, there are plenty of other Gaudi creations in Barcelona. They are beautiful no doubt, but I feel they are overpriced. Park Guell is one of the few that are free to enter, and I do recommend you go there to get a sampling of Gaudi’s genius.


However the park is sadly marred by the tons of buskers and street vendors who converge on its walkways, taking advantage of the high visitor traffic.

A bit of a disappointment not because the park is deficient aesthetically. I would however put it down to way too much pre-visitation hype, which Barcelona tourism invariably encourages.


In a nutshell: I would recommend that unless you are a big fan of nightlife, do not linger in Madrid. It did not excite me, and we found ourselves running out of things to do and see by the end of the first day.

Barcelona is more interesting in comparison, though I personally feel that the cult of Gaudi (not Gaudi himself) is overrated.

The food I had in Spain did not blow my mind, although you might as well try it when there. Between the so-called ‘Spanish’ culutral activities of Flamenco and bullfighting, I would recommend the former not simply because I enjoyed it, but also because I personally think bullfighting is cruel! So there you go. That’s how I ‘did’ Spain.

Updates from my room

Am recovering from a rather tiring trip to Spain, and a painful dental procedure which I went for yesterday to clean out the gum area around an infected wisdom tooth. The post-procedure pain has largely ebbed thankfully, although there is still slight discomfort in the tooth area, and swelling around my jaw area. Hopefully that will subside in the days to come.

I am in the midst of completing a take-home essay examination for my Scottish Literature module. It is going well, albeit rather slowly, because my room (and laptop) provides ample sources of distraction - blogging happens to be one of them. At the moment, I am hooked on following the AWARE saga in Singapore - it feels so good to be connected to going-ons back home via the internet!

For more information about the saga, this has been the website I visit most regularly for updates: http://www.we-are-aware.sg Check it out if you have time. The case itself is interesting in its own right, but beyond that, it also provides intriguing insight into the state of contemporary civil society in Singapore. I am excited to see the amount of lively debate and intelligent comments the case has brought about - well, not to say that there haven't been un-intelligent responses but those are generally inevitable.

I will be following the press releases after May 2 (slated date of the Extraordinary General meeting) with much enthusiasm! My only regret is that I cannot be in Singapore to catch the proceedings in person - there is, however, an online petition which we can sign to show moral support for the old AWARE. It really is extraordinary how overseas Singaporeans can continue to follow and participate in happenings back home nowadays.

Other than that, I am glad to finally settle back down in my room. Not to say that Spain wasn't fun (although we did have awful room-mates in the hostel), but it is comforting to be back in familiar surroundings. It doesn't hurt also to be back in a place where the people speak English - Huishan, you were so right when you spoke about linguistic capital when travelling. Simply understanding and being understood can make such a big difference to your confidence levels, especially in places where the people aren't exactly famed for their patience, manners or tolerance toward foreigners (I'm speaking generally here).

Well back to work then. More updates soon!

A London Diary

I couldn't do it for France and forget all about London. So here it is! The highs and the lows of London:

Five Best Experiences in London

1. Shopping with Mum

Retail therapy is a great opportunity for mother-daughter bonding. I enjoyed walking around the major shopping belts with my mum, and just getting a glimpse of daily life on the busy arteries of London's major streets.


We picked up most of our buys along Oxford Street, however I really liked wandering around these two places in particular: Neal's Yard (above) and Camden Lock. The former is a little square tucked away from the main road. The place is a violent riot of colours when you enter, with young Londoners milling about and sitting on the public benches. It's a pleasure to walk around this rather bohemian area. Grab a bite while you're at it - there is a fun selection of cafes within the yard serving a mixture of cuisines.

I think the Camden Town area is a must for anyone with a remote interest in fashion and shopping. Camden Market (Buck Street) is similar to Bugis Village with its loud flashy signage and youthful fashion, but Camden Lock Market appealed to me more. It sits prettily near Regent's Canal (pictured above), and houses a wide assortment of merchandise encompassing prints, clothes, accessories, furniture, and of course, an international spread of street food. The canal is also lined with a host of trendy F&B outlets ranging from cavernous pubs to mod-looking Japanese restaurants. I imagine the place would be very vibrant in the evening.

2. Getting Cultured for the Price of Nothing


The cityscape of London is nowhere as picturesque as Paris or even some parts of Edinburgh. However, it is unparalleled in the sheer number of cultural institutions which are free and accessible to all. As Stephanie says, there's always something to do in London, and you can be entertained for close to nothing on a lazy weekend.

Free galleries and museums abound in London, including big-wigs like the British Museum (pictured above) and the Natural History Museum. A tip if you're racking your brains for souvenirs in London: forget the Union Jack fridge magnets and 'I LOVE LONDON' tee-shirts - I apologize if this sounds snobbish, but my philosophy is that apart from edibles, cheap souvenirs always wind up as tacky dust-collectors or ill-fitting Pajamas. Save the earth's resources (and your own) and invest in good gifts which the receiver is more likely to appreciate. If you concur, I'd suggest heading straight for the museum giftshops/bookstores. The merchandise I've seen is excellent, and usually encompasses more than in-house publications. The Natural History Museum in particular is great if you're shopping for kids - all sorts of knick-knacks, which are not only delightful but educational. You can't argue with that! I also liked the photography books which the Natural History giftstore had - excellent quality photographs of wildlife in artsy, coffee table-ish books. Of course, these gifts are admittedly a little pricey - not for those relatives you secretly don't like too much!

But giftstores aside, my favourite museum was the Victoria and Albert (V&A) pictured below. It is quite a gem, and I really enjoyed sampling their vast and eclectic collection which included rooms dedicated to fashion, textiles and theatre amongst other things. There was even a special exhibition on Hats going on when I visited, complete with museum staff walking around in the most outlandish and hilarious hats ever! Spent a fun and engaging time there. And yes, the giftstore is heaven-on-earth.


3. Tea for Two


I like supermarket shopping with my boyfriend, and I think he would've gone wild in Harrods. The selection is impeccable, ranging from antique furniture to quality groceries. The food halls in particular are gorgeously decorated, and the teas and chocolates are popular gift items.

But while you're in one of these ultra posh departmental stores, rest your shopping-weary legs in one of their ubiquitous tea-rooms and give yourself a treat. Apart from their fragrant brews, don't miss the famous macaroons at Laduree Cafe in Harrods. The Fountain restaurant in Fortnum and Mason also serves up an excellent plate of scones complete with jam and clotted cream (pictured below). For myself, I ordered the Sticky Date Toffee pudding which was excellent, although I think Marmalade Pantry's version is actually as good.

4. Picnicing in Hyde Park

Strictly a good-weather activity. When I returned to London after my sojourn in France, Stephanie and I spontaneously decided to have a picnic in Hyde Park! The park itself is lovely, especially when the sun's out. Also, there are usually a variety of interesting characters who will keep you occupied; these include inquisitive squirrels who will eat out of your hand, and the occassional break-dancing troupe which decides to debut their moves on the green - yes, we experienced both when picnicing there. What did I tell you about free entertainment in London?

5. Eating Out in London


This gets a mention simply because it was such a welcome change from 3 months of dining hall food. English food is nothing to shout about, and I would say that it is cetainly overwhelmed by the sheer diversity of international cuisines all jostling for your attention in London. The choice is really quite staggering. Chinese, Indian and Italian food are obvious finds, but there's also Malaysian, Eastern European and Korean food to suit even the most selective of tastebuds. Of course whether or not the food meets up to your expectations is a different matter, but the variety itself is a good and promising start! Thanks to Mum, Dad, Suresh and Stephanie for treating my tastebuds to Dimsum, U-don, Kimchi soup, Chinese Roast duck, Portuguese-style chicken, Tea cakes and Thali amongst other things! And of course, who could forget that excellent grilled sea bass in the Italian restaurant - thanks for letting me pinch off your plate daddy!

Not-too-good Experiences in London

1. Tower of London

Expensive and not all that exciting for me. However, redeemed by the Yeoman Warden tours which are exceedingly entertaining.

2. The Metro

Generally quite efficient when its working, however we experienced many line closures when there, especially over the weekend. Always set off earlier for your destination lest you wind up stranded in a station where service has been interrupted or delayed suddenly.

3. Football Fans

Loud, noisy, boorish and generally drunk. They sing annoying songs as well. Avoid them at all costs.

4. The Crush of People

Found in all Tube stations at peak hour, and on Sundays along Oxford Street. The crowds are massive, pushy and jostling. London is definitely a city that lives on the fast (and hectic) lane, and they aren't very tolerant of tourists who mill around aimlessly on the streets obstructing pedestrian flow. Avoid standing on the wrong side of escalators lest you receive rude glances from impatient office workers rushing to work - you'll be reminded in no uncertain terms to keep to the right.

Remembering France

In a nutshell:

Five Best Experiences in France

1. Walking along the Seine



One of the most surprising discoveries I made in Paris: Life seems to move as slowly as the sinuous Seine. After coming from London which is hectic to put it very mildly, I expected Parisians to live life equally fast and furious.


The city-scape is clearly one that befits a modern metropolis, yet the pace of life (as I experienced it) was pleasantly mellow. Walking along the banks of the river Seine captures this perfectly: the boulevards are wide, breezy and lined with trees; elderly couples stroll casually in front of you, arms linked like bashful school children; artists peddle their wares by the river-side unobtrusively; and Parisiens sip coffee from the shaded recesses of roadside cafes simply watching the world go by.


We had just 3 days in Paris which is clearly not enough to clearly see everything. Before coming I had steeled myself for a rushed whistle-stop tour of the city's main sights - but Paris has the effect of enveloping you with its charm, causing you to slow down and literally, smell the roses. And that we did. Quite a lot, with red wine and cheese in hand. Is this the famed French joie de vivre kicking in? Paris ended up one of the most relaxing and enjoyable trips ever.

2. Visiting the Eiffel Tower at Night

The Eiffel Tower is not over-rated in my book - though it is undeniably a converging point for trigger-happy tourists and shady looking salespeople jingling Eiffel Tower keychains in your face. We didn't manage to go up the tower, but no matter - it is simply gorgeous to behold from any angle at night when it's lit up. Watch out for the hourly light show when the tower literally sparkles for five minutes. The best part about it is the split second you experience when everyone's too stunned to take any pictures. Then you hear a collective sigh of delight rising from the snaking queue waiting to take the elevator up the tower. It's really quite amazing.

Then a second later all the cameras are raised again, in a frenzy of flashes. But hey, the Tower's still the brightest star of them all.

3. Parcs et jardins

Parks and gardens are sacred grounds of pilgrimage for weary travellers. Spring is an excellent time to visit any of them as the flowers are in full bloom, and the weather is generally perfect for afternoon picnics on the grass. My favourite gardens are the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris, and the Cimiez Monastery Park in Nice. The latter in particular (pictured above), not only has beautifully tended rose-beds, but it also commands sweeping views of Nice - one of the best I dare say.

4. Overnight train ride to Nice

After hearing nightmarish stories of sleeper berths in trains having nothing more than 'mattressed planks,' I was understandably apprehensive about sleeping in a couchette during our 10 hour train journey from Paris to Nice. However, the couchettes proved extremely comfortable and were thoughtfully supplied with individual blankets, eyemasks, ear plugs, mineral water and breath-mints.

Apart from the comfortable bed however, the best part of the journey was waking up early (around 6.30am) and watching the sun rise over the French provencal landscape, and glittering over the Rivera coastline. You share this experience with other bleary-eyed and hushed travellers, lined up in the narrow corridor of the train. Quite remarkable.

5. Nice

Nice is beautiful! It is blessed with more charisma than it's stately counterpart, Paris, and is also (surprisingly) far less touristy. Don't get me wrong - there are tons of tourists milling about the beaches, but evidence of locals pandering to the tourist dollar are generally minimal. Nice is also much more affordable than Paris, and that might explain why the locals also seem friendlier. However like Paris (or perhaps, even more so), the pace of life is exceedingly slow and relaxed. An excellent place for serious relaxation.

Nice is understandably famous for its beach and coastline - it is the capital of the Rivera after all. I won't dispute that too much - the Baie des Angeles is a must-see. Don't be put off by the high noon-time sun; that's the absolute best time in my opinion, to stroll down the famed Promenades des Anglais to see the beach in full swing and in full colour. Morning and evening strolls by the beach work fine too, but you won't get the full flavour of the place - the rollerbladers have retired their skates, the chattering local boys who cheekily flirt with you in broken Mandarin have disappeared, the bronzed sun-bathers have rolled up their beach mats, and the circus-like buzz along the promenade which swirls merrily around you has faded along with the evening sun.

But apart from the Promenade, Vieux Nice is also another must-see. The old quarter of the city, it is filled with little, narrow streets and brightly painted buildings which are festooned with laundry strung on sagging clothes lines. Unlike the Baie des Angeles, I'd recommend the opposite for Vieux Nice: of course, you must go for the colourful flower market on Cours Saleya, and sample Nicois cuisine in the more bustling Rue Saint Francois de Paul; however, I think the most charming parts of Vieux Nice lie in the quiet backroads which are mainly residential areas free of shops peddling bikinis. These are great places to get lost in.

Check out some of the churches in Vieux Nice as well. The church at the end of Rue de Jesus has a stunning baroque interior which will enthrall you for quite a while. And this is coming from someone who is close to exhausting her appetite for churches in Europe.

Worst Experiences in France

Nothing's perfect though my holiday in France came pretty darn close. Here are some little things which prevented me from coining this an absolute 5-star holiday.

1. Parisiens

It's not entirely true that the French refuse to speak English - most will know some basic words/phrases which helps communication quite a bit. But then most stereotypes have some basis in fact. The Parisiens I encountered were not the warmest of people, especially the service staff. They can come across as rather aloof and stand-offish. Bad and unclear French can be met with impatient eye-rolls. Service with a smile is not exactly a popular philosophy here.

On the bright side, I notice that the standards of English in Nice were much better. But more importantly, the locals were also far friendlier down in the South. A nice elderly gentleman struck up a conversation with me in Nice and was patient enough to listen as I tried to form sentences in my extremely poor French!

2. Crowd management at the Lourve

Poor. Over an hour's waiting time which encompassed the queue for entry into the Lourve lobby and another separate queue for admission tickets within the lobby itself manned by a grand total of one frazzled looking lady. I should add that I don't mind waiting for popular attractions, but I have seen much more efficient crowd management where you actually feel like you're moving at a regular and consistent speed even though there are thousands of people in front of you.

Signage and information brochures were ambiguous, leading us to think that admission prices would be free for under-26s on certain evenings, when this actually only applied to EU citizens.

Flash photography is rampant even though this is technically prohibited and should be since it is destructive for the paintings. Understandably, the size of the Lourve makes this hard to police but I have to say that in the Vatican museum which is positively sprawling, even the part-time guides will tell you off if they see you snapping away with your flash on though it's not really their business. The Sistine chapel itself has security guards who literally shout at you from their podium to keep quiet and stop taking pictures.

Not so with the Mona Lisa. Everyone takes photos with their flash on. There wasn't even a custodian in the room to manage or discipline the crowd. What is up with that?

3. Notre-Dame

Nice cathedral - nicer on the outside. The inside is a literal market-place. I hated it. While I am guilty of taking (non-flash) pictures inside cathedrals sometimes, I think basic decorum should be observed when a service or mass is in progress - which it was when we entered Notre-Dame. That means, give your camera a break or at the very least turn off the flash so it won't be so distracting. That sadly didn't happen inside the Church which is clearly, massively popular with trigger-happy tourists. If I remember correctly, even the gift shop's merchandise encroached quite a far bit into the worship space, which is seriously tacky.

There needs to be more stern policing done. Sacre-Coeur was a much better experience - large signs and guards at the entrance remind you to not take photos, and to observe silence when walking around the church. A dress code is also enforced at Sacre-Coeur which is fair.

4. Versailles

25 Euros for a day passport into the Gardens, Chateau and Marie Antoinette's apartments. But our friends showed their student IDs and got in for free even though they weren't EU citizens. The unfairness of it all!

But in any case, I think I might have reached my saturation point as far as castles and palaces are concerned. Or perhaps I just wasn't very impressed by Versailles itself. The so-called Fountain Musical performance in the Versailles gardens was over-rated. I don't think you should label something a 'performance' or a 'show' unless it has some discernable entertainment value. Turning on the water simultaneously in all the fountains is not exactly entertaining after the first 2 minutes. I expected at the very least, jets of water, leaping in sync with the Baroque music for the 8 euro admission fee into the gardens itself. No such luck.

France in Quick Retrospect

I'm currently in Stephanie's apartment in London, after my 7 day break in France. The itinery encompassed 3 days in Paris, and 3 days down South in Nice. A rather modest schedule but this turned out to be one of the best holidays I've ever had and I'm really glad I went. More detailed post coming soon - hopefully when I get back to Edinburgh.

But in the meantime, my heart pines for France and (strangely enough) pain au chocolat!

Quick Quips: Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon

Took a short guided day trip to Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon on Tuesday. As with all guided tours, it was unfortunately very rushed, very touch-and-go and left at best, rather fleeting memories. So I suppose I ought to try and record down some brief impressions before they fade!

1. Oxford

Oxford is really quite a pretty city. If I have the opportunity, I would love to come back here and wander around myself.

We toured Christ Church chapel, which was where several scenes from Harry Potter were filmed. The Great Hall was pretty cool, but positively swamped with camera-armed tourists. Squeezing past them was not very fun at all. The walk around the campus itself was far more pleasant; the architecture is really quite pleasing to the eye. I liked the library (pictured above) quite a bit!



Apart from the university, the city itself is also lovely in its own right, save for the giant tour buses which trawl the streets. But hey, you can't have everything can you?

2. Stratford-upon-Avon

More famously known as the birthplace and residence of the Bard. Shakespeare references abound in this little town, including the 'As you like it' cafe, and the 'Iago' jewelry shop. Otherwise, the town is somewhat dull. However I must say that the main street which houses Shakespeare's house has been quite beautifully refurbished with trendy shops and bistros housed within quaint, white-washed Tudor facades. No doubt deliberately made picture-perfect for the postcards!


Even prettier however, was Anne Hathaway's cottage - birthplace of Shakespeare's wife! The house is well-restored and is simply gorgeous to behold, especially the gardens! I'd upload a picture but I'm lazy and blogger is lagging, so I'll do it another time! :P

Another interesting feature about Stratford-upon-Avon were the spontaneous performances of Shakespeare's plays (excerpts) which occured within the birthplace compound and spilt out onto the streets. Actresses togged in period garb re-enacted scenes from A Midsummer Night's Dream as tourists munching on baguettes watched on from the 'Food of Love' cafe. It's really a kind of heaven (if somewhat tacky) for die-hard Shakespeare enthusiasts.

Have to go off now. See you sometime soon world!

Brief Thoughts from London

London is sprawling, noisy and - by the look of my clothes - rather polluted. Nevertheless I can see why it's often heralded the Metropolis of the world. It's been a fun 9 days here with my family and I've loved it! Will be leaving tomorrow for France. A little sad, but not quite - will be back again on the 16th with Stephanie. Girl, if you're reading this, you gotta show me a good time ;)

The Highlands in Colour

After rummaging through my luggage, it turns out that I did bring my memory card reader!

So in no particular order, some photographic highlights from my second Highlands trip:

1. Hamish, the Highland Cow: My first hairy cow upclose and personal! He's so swishy looking.

2. The Lowlands: I think this was taken somewhere around Stirling. The lowland landscape is gently undulating and full of rolling green hills. Picture perfect!

3. The Highlands: Past the Highland faultline and we're in a completely different country altogether.

The highlands are wild, untamed and dramatic. Breath-taking to behold even from inside an airconditioned coach.

But nothing's ever just 'pretty' in the highlands. It's deadly. Ben Nevis is just 1/8 the size of Mount Everest, but has claimed more lives.

I'm no mountaineer but I can say that stepping out of the coach itself can already kill the unsuspecting - it's Spring but the winds are still as crazy as ever! They can literally blow you off a cliff if you're not careful.

4. The Five Sisters: These 5 mountain peaks formed one of the most picturesque moments of our trip.

5. Eilean Donan Castle: Highlander was filmed here! It's a small castle but it looked stunning against the sunset.

6. Isle of Skye, Lealt Falls: I rest my case, Skye is looking fine. Took a familiar route, however made a detour to Lealt Falls which I hadn't been to the last time. Joined a group of English geologists and admired this great crashing waterfall.



7. The White Heather: Charming B&B in Kyleakin which we put up in for the night. Lovely view from our room!



8. Creelers Seafood Restaurant, Broadford, Isle of Skye: I had the most amazing scallops in this joint. Quiet, unassuming family-run business which will make your tastebuds go wild.
9. The Culloden Battlefield: Did I mention our guide was a Scot and hates the English with a passion? It's a no-brainer therefore that we ended up here.

The Culloden Battle was the beginning of the end of Highland culture. This is the field where the highland clans were slaughtered by the British army. There is an excellent museum on-site which contributes overall to an extremely poignant experience. Descendents of the ill-fated Highlanders still come here to mourn.

10. The Hermitage: Our final stop just before heading back to Edinburgh, and in many ways, the icing on the cake. The little hut-like structure on the left was a former opium-den. It's been converted into a gorgeous viewing gallery. Glass doors open up, offering a fantastic view of the waterfall below.

11. The Waterfall: Voila voila.

On the Road: The Highlands once more

I'm currently in a delightful Bed and Breakfast outfit called The White Heather. It's close to sub-zero temperatures in Kyleakin, on the Isle of Skye but today was absolutely awesome! I'm mentally kicking myself for not bringing along my SD card reader because by the looks of it, I'm going to have a massive amount of pictures after my 3 week Easter break - 114 pictures today and I think that's modest compared to my dad who has amassed over a thousand images since Wednesday!

Am on a 3-day Scottish highlands tour with my family. The route covered by the tour bus is almost identical to the one I took about 3 weeks ago with my own friends, however, now that the snow has melted (somewhat), and the Spring colours are emerging, I'm discovering a vastly different landscape. It doesn't hurt that today was an absolutely gorgeous day contrary to the more wintry scenes we encountered the last time. Now it's all clear blue skies and bright sunshine - one of the rare 47 days in a year when the summit of Ben Nevis is actually visible!

I will get around to uploading photos once I have the chance to do so - but in the absence of images, I can only gush rather incoherently. Absolutely, absolutely breath-taking scenery. Simply s.p.e.c.t.a.c.u.l.a.r. I'm so glad I'm back here!!!

And dinner gets a special mention here. If you ever find yourself in the Isle of Skye, pop by Creeler's Restaurant in the town of Broadford for seafood. We had scallops, lobsters, monk fish and seafood gumbo - the food is orgasmic and is coupled by faultless service in a cosy and intimate setting. And best of all, the food served is made using fresh local produce from the Island itself! Yum. 

Alright, will go bathe and get some rest. Tomorrow, we tour Skye and I can't wait! I just hope the forecast for 'liquid sunshine' doesn't actually materialize though :( Will keep my fingers crossed for good weather!   

Spring Vacation

Easter Break Vacation:

28th March - 31st March: In the Highlands with family

1st April - 9th April: London with family

10th April - 12th April: Paris

13th April - 16th April: Nice

16th April - 19th April: London with Stephanie!!!!

19th April - 22th April: Edinburgh

22th April - 24th April: Madrid

24th April - 27th April: Barcelona

27th April: Back again to Edinburgh for exams

When the fun Really begins

Tomorrow is the last day of school.

My suitcase is open and ready to be packed.

I drop off my hostel keys by Saturday.

My parents arrived in Edinburgh yesterday (yay!)

And there are 9 weeks of holidays till the end of term (with 3 exams in between).

O.M.G Let the fun begin.

When Irish eyes are smiling: Dublin (230309 - 240309)

Evening scene of the River Liffey


Dublin! What can I say?

It has it's lovely spots here and there as all destinations surely do if you look hard enough, but in general I was not impressed. Stone me for saying this, but as a short 2-day tourist destination, I seriously think Singapore would be more interesting.

Let's get the bad stuff out of the way so I don't dwell on it excessively and unnecessarily for the rest of the post. The weather was wintery in the thick of March. The city is horribly expensive (Normal cheese-and-ham sandwich for 4 euros. Minimum). There are some pretty buildings here and there, but the whole does not surpass its parts in general - unless you have an undying passion for bullet-ridden building facades. After oo-ing and aah-ing over the Millenium and Tyne Bridge in Newcastle, seeing the Liffey river and the ha'penny bridge was quite underwhelming. The main thoroughfare in Dublin, O'Connell Street, is nothing compared to its equivalents in Edinburgh, although I have to say the Millenium Spire was quite cool and worth a good long gape.

Sadly, the Dubliners whom I encountered on the streets were none too helpful, and were prone to push and shove, and ignore our questions regarding road directions. City-living perhaps; everyone looked like they were in a rush. Though thankfully the people who did matter, including the customs officer and tour guide, were friendly to the fault.

In terms of night-life, I suppose we picked a bad day going on a Monday/Tuesday but I did expect more people out and about after sunset, instead of the sparse crowds we encountered.

Now the good stuff. If you do go to Dublin, here's what I'd recommend you do, Jeanne-style!


1. Irish Dancing Night, Arlington Hotel

It's your own mini River Dance. I strongly recommend you head down to the Arlington Hotel at 10pm, whichever night you're in Dublin to catch the free Irish dancing. You can grab dinner here, or simply do what we did, which was to order a drink each and watch the show unfold.

I'm told by Felyna that the act isn't as professional as the original River Dance, but it should make an entertaining, half-hour slice of Irish culture :) Gotta give it up to the dancers - 30 solid minutes of feet-stomping, prancing, leaping and twirling! And all seemingly done without a sweat.

2. Chester Beatty Library, Dublin Castle


Entry into the Castle itself is 3.50 euros (student rate) - it's more of a stately house than a castle, and a very exquisitely funished one at that. However, the real gem within the grounds is the Chester Beatty library, named after a prolific (prolifically rich as well) book and manuscript collector who amassed an astounding amount of material. This collection includes the largest set of Qurans outside of the Middle East, fragments of the Pauline letters, and beautiful scrolls depicting scenes from Murasaki Shikibu's Tale of Genji.

Chester Beatty's amazing collection is housed within the Library, and is on display for free - I might add this is rare in Dublin where you pay through your nose for most things. This cultural treasure trove is definitely worth a look.

3. Beauty Spots: Trinity College campus and St Patrick's Cathedral


I want to be a student at Trinity after viewing the campus! You enter the gates, into a seriously gorgeous oasis of calm right smack in the middle of town. There are neatly manicured lawns dotted with the most beautiful selection of trees ever and elegant buildings including the pretty structure you see in the picture above, built specially to give the campus 'a touch of class.' As if it didn't already have enough!



Sadly the lawns are off-limits to everyone and you could be thrown out by security if you're found on it. So beautiful. So inaccessible. But it makes a good photo-op. And sometimes that's all that matters...in a sad, ironic way.

Another really pretty place is St Patrick's Cathedral. Specifically the gardens outside of St Pat's which are exquisite especially since the flowers are now in bloom.




Didn't manage to go into the Cathedral because of limited time, but I imagine it would be fairly nice as well!

4. Pub Grub: Beef and Guinness Stew

Trust me that after a cold, wet day, nothing beats sitting down to a pipping hot bowl of stew; and this Irish beef stew which I had in the Temple Bar area was absolutely amazing and homely. They don't skimp on the beef, which is incidentally very tender and juicy. Mmm. Treat yourself a little for a meal like this - so worth it.

Looking happy!

So in all, I'm glad I went to Ireland, and that I can say I've been to Ireland (and again, sometimes that's all that matters in a sad-ironic way). Nevertheless, I won't go back again and I wouldn't recommend it in gushing tones. If you have a choice, come to Edinburgh.

Newcastle: MY Top Pick of the Week!

I decided on a particularly dull Thursday afternoon to take a spontaneous day trip somewhere over the weekend. My only stipulations were that it had to be near, accessible and, in the favourite words of my Art History teacher, "cheap as chips." My decision was somewhat arbitrary - I looked at googlemaps and just chose the Northern-most English city, closest to Edinburgh which didn't sound boring or dangerous.

And so Newcastle it was!

Newcastle is just 1.5hrs away from Edinburgh, and you can get single tickets for as low as £5.60. I packed up chocolates and a very pixellated and low-resolution map which I had found online, and went to catch the 7.30am train out of Waverly station.

As the train approached Newcastle, I spied rows upon rows of uninspired looking maroon houses all with the same ugly chimeney fixture. My heart sank, and I thought 'Oh God, I've arrived in the heartlands of the Industrial Revolution.'

But thankfully, in this case, my first impressions were almost immediately squashed. Gone are the greasy shipyards and grimy factories belching smoke - the once declining industrial town has undergone a cultural renaissance, and Newcastle has emerged feverishly H.I.P.!



Newcastle has a little bit of everything. Grainger Town, the historic heart of Newcastle, is full of regal old-world buildings. It also houses Grey Street, which was apparently voted by Radio Four listeners as their favourite street in England.


It's certainly very elegant, flanked on either side by stately looking architecture, leading up a gentle curve to the imposing Grey Monument, commemorating Charles Grey, the second Earl Grey - yes, the tea is named after him!

Crowds gathered at the base of Grey Monument listening to a guy with pink hair championing a Socialist Revolution

And once you've had your taste of old-world charm, go soak up the breezy, ultra-stylish vibe that positively throbs through the Quayside. It's an amazing place!

I cannot stress it enough, Newcastle makes a fantastic citybreak within the UK. Perhaps The Times wasn't too off the mark when it described Newcastle as the 'New Capital of Britain.' It's got everything I imagine a topclass city would have. Here were some of the highlights of my day:

1. Zipping through the Bridges along the Quayside

My absolute favourite part of the day. You must go to the Quayside and stroll along the banks of the River Tyne. Check out the public art on either side of the River; best of all, stand and admire the renowned bridges which dot the River Tyne.

There's the Tyne Bridge:


And of course, the quintessential symbol of the new Newcastle...the Gateshead Millenium Bridge!


It's supposed to look like a giant eyelid apparently. An interesting piece of architecture to marvel at! Walk along the bridge to get excellent views of the city and the River Tyne.

2. Walking around Grainger Town: Grey Street, and the Grey Monument

Mentioned above already. It was the street I used to orientate myself when in Newcastle. The tourist information point also lies somewhere off Grey Street, through this lovely Central Arcade:

If only shopping centers were all this beautiful!

3. Art Venues

There's no doubt about it - Newcastle's cultural scene is exploding. There are a vast array of art galleries, most of which are FREE which is excellent. When at the Quayside, I sampled the BALTIC Gallery which houses a rotating collection of modern art, and popped into the Sage Gatehead - a premier venue for musical performances.
The Sage Gateshead complex

Check out the Sage even if you aren't attending a concert there. It's an intriguing structure, characterized by curves, glass and stainless steel. The interior is as impressive as the outside, with a large concourse offering a good view of the River Tyne. It's not a conventionally pretty building, but I think in this day and age, structures with the ability to surprise, shock and provoke discourse/thought are way more interesting that those which simply look "nice." Art should not provoke a bland, monolithic response - it should challenge!

(I like the Scottish Parliament building for the same reason, even though it's been decried by some as a blight on the landscape haha.)




Make the BALTIC gallery a must-see on your trip to Newcastle. Even if you can't appreciate modern art, head up to the 5th floor viewing gallery of this converted flour mill to get excellent views of the Quayside. The exhibits constantly rotate, so you'll always be in for a surprise when you visit. When I went, there was a themed exhibition about 'Conflict and Peace.' Very interesting pieces there, which included several cinematic works. I also really liked the gallery's eco-friendly policies - they encourage you to return exhibit brochures and leaflets to the counter, where they are then reissued to new visitors to save on paper. The ecowarrior in me approves wholeheartedly!

4. The Angel of the North

The Angel of the North stands, a faceless sentinel over the adjacent freeway, silently overlooking the scores of vehicles which trickle into the nearby Gateshead.

You have to head about 20 minutes out of the Newcastle City center to see this, but I really recommend it. Not for nothing is the Angel of the North deemed one of the 'Icons' of England. Its an immense piece of public art/sculpture with an inherent 'wow' factor due to its sheer size.


The width of the Angel's wings make it wider than the Statue of Liberty is tall. Truly impressive. Worth the detour and 3.20pound return bus fare!

5. Away from the Maddening Crowd

If the shopping crowds along Northumberland Street start to make you edgy, skip on down to Blackfriars, a literal oasis of calm in the middle of the city.



It's not really a park or garden, but a little courtyard bound by the walls of an old monastic building. It's a really tranquil spot if you want to escape from the hubbub of the city. Even the neighbourhood it's situated in is remarkably peaceful.

This is just a sampling of what Newcastle has to offer - there's really quite a bit you could do and see, and practically all the attractions are free! It's an amazing city...it tired me out, but all the same, I really loved it!

Verdict: Newcastle sizzles. And not just for Newcastle UFC fans. You really must go if you can, especially if you're keen on culture and the arts. Go, go, go!