Will be leaving for the airport in about 6 hours time. Still wondering if I ought to get some sleep now, or to just stay up so I'll be able to doze off on the plane.
Spent a quiet evening having dinner, before heading off quite spontaneously to Holyrood Park. Walked along the Salisbury Craigs, and watched the sunset. It was simply breath-taking. Afterwards, I lay on the grass for a while just soaking in the cool evening air. Eventually, I pulled myself away and headed back to Pollock Halls.
A fitting end to an amazing exchange. I will really miss Edinburgh - 'tis a wonderful city.
This will probably be my last entry in Edinburgh. Next time you hear from me, I'll be on the other side of the world in Singapore.
Three years ago when I was a freshman at NUS, I never imagined I would actually make it all the way up North to Scotland. But it happened, and I'm glad it did.
Thanks to all who've been following and leaving comments on this blog. I hope you enjoyed reading about my journey in these past 5 months. See you all soon.
Saturday, 30 May 2009
Finding Gary
A short note on something else I did this morning, which I didn't mention in the previous post.
I walked toward the general direction of Princes Street around 11am today. I had gone to Tescos to buy some breakfast for Gary (see earlier post) - just some fruit granola bars and orange juice. Nothing fancy.
He had said he would be begging along North Bridge Road this morning. As I made my way through the crush of people however, I saw no sign of him. Stood for a while at the juction of Princes Street, looking around me. However I didn't spot a huddled figure with a bruised left eye anywhere. Gave up and walked back toward George Square in search of some breakfast for myself thinking I would find him later, or give the food away to some other homeless person.
It is a strange feeling. I usually scan the area around Princes Street for a familiar landmark or an interesting shop. This is the first time I've gone there with my eyes fixed somewhere near the ground, searching out an actual person.
Strangely enough as I was walking back, didn't see any homeless people along the Nicolson Street stretch (there usually are). Didn't even see the Big Issue guy outside Tescos. Maybe the heat got to all of them.
I still have the granola bars. I might drink the juice later.
I walked toward the general direction of Princes Street around 11am today. I had gone to Tescos to buy some breakfast for Gary (see earlier post) - just some fruit granola bars and orange juice. Nothing fancy.
He had said he would be begging along North Bridge Road this morning. As I made my way through the crush of people however, I saw no sign of him. Stood for a while at the juction of Princes Street, looking around me. However I didn't spot a huddled figure with a bruised left eye anywhere. Gave up and walked back toward George Square in search of some breakfast for myself thinking I would find him later, or give the food away to some other homeless person.
It is a strange feeling. I usually scan the area around Princes Street for a familiar landmark or an interesting shop. This is the first time I've gone there with my eyes fixed somewhere near the ground, searching out an actual person.
Strangely enough as I was walking back, didn't see any homeless people along the Nicolson Street stretch (there usually are). Didn't even see the Big Issue guy outside Tescos. Maybe the heat got to all of them.
I still have the granola bars. I might drink the juice later.
Pre-Departure Notes...Random Thoughts while Walking Around
Am done packing and cleaning out my room!
Most of my neighbours have left already. There are sparse crowds in the dining room these days. Pollock halls is quieter than ever before. It's strange to know that at this moment, I might be the only one left in my corridor.
The sun was unbearably strong today. I never thought I would say this, but the weather was hot enough to beat me back indoors by 2pm!
However, found time to say farewell to some familiar spots in Edinburgh before making a hasty retreat back to Pollock halls - I walked around Nicolson Street, George Square, the Meadows ...and even the school library! (printed out some last minute documents) And as I did my rounds this clear summer day, I couldn't help but picture a shadow of myself in January, bundled up in my thick winter parka, gingerly treading across these now all-too-familiar roads.
Did some last minute souvenir shopping at the Farmer's Market, and along Clerk street. Ever since that disastrous afternoon where I window shopped for souvenirs along the Royal Mile and bought practically nothing, I have decided never to set foot inside another tartan-swathed, bagpipe-bellowing shop ever again. And looking at the crowds thronging the Royal Mile this morning, I think I was wise to steer clear of Heritage of Scotland today.
At the Farmer's market, I picked up some lovely hand-made chocolate products for my former boss. Also purchased a pack of buttery short-bread made in Langholm by a smiling old lady for my research supervisor at NUS. My final stop was at Anteaques to pick up some loose tea (the Edinburgh Blue Lady!), which I managed to get in a nice red tea caddy at 50% off - score!
I like the fact that these gifts were purchased from places which I discovered, and from producers/retailers whom I was able to chat with personally; they all consequently have some kind of interesting 'back story' behind them, which I think is pretty neat.
Pleased with my buys. I just hope they survive the trip back home - the shortbread in particular looks crumbly.
On another note, Summer's really kicking in here in Edinburgh. As I've mentioned, the weather's become 'festive' (ie: hot), and there are bus-loads of tourists coming into the city. Buskers and street stalls have started to appear along the Royal Mile since April, and have practically mushroomed in number this month. And today, I even witnessed the Orange Walk - a procession commemorating the victory of the Protestant William of Orange over King James II in the 17th-century. A woman I spoke to noted derisively that this walk is considered sectarian, and not everyone likes it - have since learnt that the Orange procession also occurs in Northern Ireland, and has been greeted with abuse in some Catholic neighbourhoods.
However sectarian or not, I have to admit it was somewhat exciting to witness the military bands marching in all the way from the Meadows. A great sense of occasion in the air, though I suppose the cause celebrated is rather contentious.
Have about 10 more hours till I leave for the airport. I'm starting to feel a little nostalgic and unwilling to leave. At the same time, I'm pleased with myself for having made it through 5 months on my own :)
It's amazing how much the city has changed since that cold dark wintery night when I teethered precariously along Waverley Bridge to find a cab. And I'm sure in some small way, I've changed along with it.
Most of my neighbours have left already. There are sparse crowds in the dining room these days. Pollock halls is quieter than ever before. It's strange to know that at this moment, I might be the only one left in my corridor.
The sun was unbearably strong today. I never thought I would say this, but the weather was hot enough to beat me back indoors by 2pm!
However, found time to say farewell to some familiar spots in Edinburgh before making a hasty retreat back to Pollock halls - I walked around Nicolson Street, George Square, the Meadows ...and even the school library! (printed out some last minute documents) And as I did my rounds this clear summer day, I couldn't help but picture a shadow of myself in January, bundled up in my thick winter parka, gingerly treading across these now all-too-familiar roads.
Did some last minute souvenir shopping at the Farmer's Market, and along Clerk street. Ever since that disastrous afternoon where I window shopped for souvenirs along the Royal Mile and bought practically nothing, I have decided never to set foot inside another tartan-swathed, bagpipe-bellowing shop ever again. And looking at the crowds thronging the Royal Mile this morning, I think I was wise to steer clear of Heritage of Scotland today.
At the Farmer's market, I picked up some lovely hand-made chocolate products for my former boss. Also purchased a pack of buttery short-bread made in Langholm by a smiling old lady for my research supervisor at NUS. My final stop was at Anteaques to pick up some loose tea (the Edinburgh Blue Lady!), which I managed to get in a nice red tea caddy at 50% off - score!
I like the fact that these gifts were purchased from places which I discovered, and from producers/retailers whom I was able to chat with personally; they all consequently have some kind of interesting 'back story' behind them, which I think is pretty neat.
Pleased with my buys. I just hope they survive the trip back home - the shortbread in particular looks crumbly.
On another note, Summer's really kicking in here in Edinburgh. As I've mentioned, the weather's become 'festive' (ie: hot), and there are bus-loads of tourists coming into the city. Buskers and street stalls have started to appear along the Royal Mile since April, and have practically mushroomed in number this month. And today, I even witnessed the Orange Walk - a procession commemorating the victory of the Protestant William of Orange over King James II in the 17th-century. A woman I spoke to noted derisively that this walk is considered sectarian, and not everyone likes it - have since learnt that the Orange procession also occurs in Northern Ireland, and has been greeted with abuse in some Catholic neighbourhoods.
However sectarian or not, I have to admit it was somewhat exciting to witness the military bands marching in all the way from the Meadows. A great sense of occasion in the air, though I suppose the cause celebrated is rather contentious.
Have about 10 more hours till I leave for the airport. I'm starting to feel a little nostalgic and unwilling to leave. At the same time, I'm pleased with myself for having made it through 5 months on my own :)
It's amazing how much the city has changed since that cold dark wintery night when I teethered precariously along Waverley Bridge to find a cab. And I'm sure in some small way, I've changed along with it.
Friday, 29 May 2009
Second Last Day in Edinburgh
Is it possible to feel so much in just one day?
At 11am, I was making my way to South Queensferry, riding high on a fresh, crisp morning breeze; I was totally psyched and excited about my mini day-trip to Inchcolm Island.
On Inchcolm Island, I found myself surrounded in a oasis of peace and quiet. I ate my packed lunch whilst lounging on a field overlooking the Firth of Forth. A colony of gulls circled the rock-face in front of me.
The late afternoon saw me falling deeper into a state of lazy indolence as the glare of the sun got stronger. I hitched a ride from a very kind stranger to Dalmeny station, where I waited for the 3.50pm train back to Waverley. It was a surreal feeling, waiting alone along a hot, dusty railroad which shimmered weirdly under the sun's rays. The tracks seemed to go on for forever, before dissolving into a pool of searing light (almost mirage-like) at the horizon.
By 5pm, I was gratefully nursing a cup of freshly brewed tea at Anteaques with buttered scones on the side. I drank out of delicate china, and stirred sugar into my tea with an ornate silver tea-spoon. I was surrounded by the strains of opera, and a low murmur of voices, punctuated by the occasional clink of tea cups.
At 7pm, I was changed, refreshed and ready to head out again.
At 7.30pm I found myself in a warm, cosy den at the Waverley Bar where I attended the monthly session of Guid Crack - a local story-telling club. I was delighted and utterly charmed by the various stories told that evening: a little old lady recalled an amazing voyage she undertook across Scandinavia in the days after World war 2 - her memories foraging for food while on the road, and sleeping under the stars were recounted with palpable excitement, as evinced in the tremor of her voice and the animated light in her eyes. Fables from Greenland and Iceland were also told with gusto by the other story-tellers of the night, while everyone joined in to sing Ally Bally, a popular Scottish lullaby.
By 9pm, I was making my way to Cartlon Hill determined to catch the sunset. I felt an inexplicable surge of adrenaline as I ran across Market Street, spying the silhouette of the Scott Monument framed against an already ochre sky. Strangely enough, I felt as if I were rushing desperately against time - racing toward the hill while it was still light...and also perhaps, a response to my impending departure? In any case, I ran up Carlton Hill just to see the sun sink gracefully behind the distant mountains - possibly the last sunset I would ever see in Edinburgh.
As I made my way down Carlton Hill, I bumped into a new visitor to Edinburgh from Thailand. Joe has been in the UK for 2 weeks, and just arrived in Edinburgh today. I chatted with him a little about Singapore art, studying History in NUS and understanding the Scottish accent. I also advised him on how to find Portobello Beach, and gave suggestions about what he could do tomorrow - it is gratifying to know that after 5 months, I'm able to generally guide newcomers to the city. And not too long ago, I was in Joe's position, wondering whether there were any subways in Edinburgh.
At 10pm, I had a rather saddening encounter with Gary, a homeless person who begs along North Bridge road. A cash offering resulted in a long conversation where he relayed his problems to me including a recent attack by a hammer-wielding punk. He's been on the streets for 10 years which I was shocked by. Squatted next to him while chatting, and received quizzical looks from passer-bys; I cannot imagine being the target of such gazes every day for ten years. Gary notes that he's embarassed and has lost all self-confidence, but simply doesn't know how to get out of it.
It is sobering to think that the couple of pounds I spend so easily on a meal makes a world of a difference to people like Gary. He couldn't stop shaking my hand after I offered him money, and that was what initiated the whole conversation. I think he was really desperate to talk to someone and to prove (in his words) that he's a 'good man' who wants to get off the streets, but isn't able to/sure how to. And the worst part is, (and he's uncomfortably right) most well-to-do Edinburghers don't care about people like him.
I'll admit it's hard, but next time you see a homeless person (there are quite a few here), do try talking to them. Every little bit of concern helps.
At 11am, I was making my way to South Queensferry, riding high on a fresh, crisp morning breeze; I was totally psyched and excited about my mini day-trip to Inchcolm Island.
On Inchcolm Island, I found myself surrounded in a oasis of peace and quiet. I ate my packed lunch whilst lounging on a field overlooking the Firth of Forth. A colony of gulls circled the rock-face in front of me.
The late afternoon saw me falling deeper into a state of lazy indolence as the glare of the sun got stronger. I hitched a ride from a very kind stranger to Dalmeny station, where I waited for the 3.50pm train back to Waverley. It was a surreal feeling, waiting alone along a hot, dusty railroad which shimmered weirdly under the sun's rays. The tracks seemed to go on for forever, before dissolving into a pool of searing light (almost mirage-like) at the horizon.
By 5pm, I was gratefully nursing a cup of freshly brewed tea at Anteaques with buttered scones on the side. I drank out of delicate china, and stirred sugar into my tea with an ornate silver tea-spoon. I was surrounded by the strains of opera, and a low murmur of voices, punctuated by the occasional clink of tea cups.
At 7pm, I was changed, refreshed and ready to head out again.
At 7.30pm I found myself in a warm, cosy den at the Waverley Bar where I attended the monthly session of Guid Crack - a local story-telling club. I was delighted and utterly charmed by the various stories told that evening: a little old lady recalled an amazing voyage she undertook across Scandinavia in the days after World war 2 - her memories foraging for food while on the road, and sleeping under the stars were recounted with palpable excitement, as evinced in the tremor of her voice and the animated light in her eyes. Fables from Greenland and Iceland were also told with gusto by the other story-tellers of the night, while everyone joined in to sing Ally Bally, a popular Scottish lullaby.
By 9pm, I was making my way to Cartlon Hill determined to catch the sunset. I felt an inexplicable surge of adrenaline as I ran across Market Street, spying the silhouette of the Scott Monument framed against an already ochre sky. Strangely enough, I felt as if I were rushing desperately against time - racing toward the hill while it was still light...and also perhaps, a response to my impending departure? In any case, I ran up Carlton Hill just to see the sun sink gracefully behind the distant mountains - possibly the last sunset I would ever see in Edinburgh.
As I made my way down Carlton Hill, I bumped into a new visitor to Edinburgh from Thailand. Joe has been in the UK for 2 weeks, and just arrived in Edinburgh today. I chatted with him a little about Singapore art, studying History in NUS and understanding the Scottish accent. I also advised him on how to find Portobello Beach, and gave suggestions about what he could do tomorrow - it is gratifying to know that after 5 months, I'm able to generally guide newcomers to the city. And not too long ago, I was in Joe's position, wondering whether there were any subways in Edinburgh.
At 10pm, I had a rather saddening encounter with Gary, a homeless person who begs along North Bridge road. A cash offering resulted in a long conversation where he relayed his problems to me including a recent attack by a hammer-wielding punk. He's been on the streets for 10 years which I was shocked by. Squatted next to him while chatting, and received quizzical looks from passer-bys; I cannot imagine being the target of such gazes every day for ten years. Gary notes that he's embarassed and has lost all self-confidence, but simply doesn't know how to get out of it.
It is sobering to think that the couple of pounds I spend so easily on a meal makes a world of a difference to people like Gary. He couldn't stop shaking my hand after I offered him money, and that was what initiated the whole conversation. I think he was really desperate to talk to someone and to prove (in his words) that he's a 'good man' who wants to get off the streets, but isn't able to/sure how to. And the worst part is, (and he's uncomfortably right) most well-to-do Edinburghers don't care about people like him.
I'll admit it's hard, but next time you see a homeless person (there are quite a few here), do try talking to them. Every little bit of concern helps.
Thursday, 28 May 2009
Surprising Finds Closer to Home...
So after venturing to neighbourhoods/districts further afield earlier this week, I decided to take things easy today. Did a bit more packing, and took a stroll through South Clerk and Clerk Street.
This is the road I've been taking for months now to school, and I've seen it so often that I'm almost sick of it. Yet despite always being in a rush to get to my lectures (late-riser that I am), I've frequently been surprised by the appearance of 'new' shops along this seemingly all-too-familiar route - it's enough for me to slow down and take a closer look.
Of course these stores aren't new. They've been there all along, but are generally overlooked as I walk briskly past them, head down. However every now and then, some of them suddenly come to light thanks to a casual glimpse or head-turn at just the right moment.
My walk today also surfaced more outlets which have managed to remain hidden for a whole 5 months...
1. Engine Shed Cafe, St Leonard's Lane
Okay fine, so this isn't on Clerk Street but it is situated along St Leonard's road which is just parallel to the former! This is also an alternative route I take to school - favoured, because there are less traffic lights and vehicles, and the road is downward sloping (hehe). At the same time, I've always thought it was a bit of a quiet street with not all that much going on for it.
Took a sidestreet today, and found myself on St Leonard's lane. Walked a little further and found The Engine Shed Cafe.
The second floor houses a cheerful little cafe, which used to be linked to a now demolished railway station (hence the industrial-sounding name). It's a large and airy space with high ceilings, and plenty of windows which flood the place with natural sunlight. The Engine shed cafe offers fuss-free self service dining, canteen style - the menu is written on a blackboard next to the serving counter and includes a host of organic and vegetarian dishes including Moroccan vegetable stew with cous-cous, and home-made hommus dips with oatcakes.
One interesting feature about the Engine Shed Cafe is its commitment to hiring staff with learning difficulties. The cafe aims to train and empower these individuals by giving them work experience, and equipping them with practical and transferable skills. I think it's a good concept, and I would encourage you to come with an open mind, plenty of patience and a big smile for the staff!
I had a large bowl of carrot and coconut soup with a fresh roll - an unusual combination but tasted quite good. To top it off, I ordered a chocolate cake which was really nice! They have quite a selection of sweet treats on the counter including raspberry flapjacks and carrot cakes, some of which are vegan-friendly.
In general, you can come here for nice, healthy and simple meals at reasonable prices (paid 3.50pounds for the entire thing). There's also a bakery on the first floor, which produces a selection of breads, some of which are suitable for yeast or wheat free diets. And finally, the Engine Shed also sells a range of tofus and oatcakes! Mm, vegetarian food has never sounded so good.
2. The Himalaya: Charity Shop and Cafe
South Clerk Street
So this ranks as one of the more unusual charity shops I've seen thus far. You're immediately hit by the cloying smell of incense the moment you enter. The front of the store stocks a host of exotic-looking products including Buddhist prayer beads, hand-made jewelry from Tibet, fine silk scarves and Indian-style cushion covers.
But this is not just a place to pick up quirky Asian curios. The Himalaya also appears to be quite a socially and politically conscious enterprise. According to a sign in the shop, the proceeds go toward a variety of charitable causes which help children in the Himalayan region. The shop also features photographs of the Dalai Lama, and sells a variety of 'Free Tibet' t-shirts.
There's also a cosy sort of cafe round the back, and a basement space where various activities are held including yoga and massage workshops. An interesting place definitely worth checking out!
3. Anteaques, Clerk Street
So there are a handful of stores in Edinburgh which specialize in unusual product pairings. Elvis Shakespeare along Leith walk is one, selling second-hand music and books. And now I've found Anteaques which is closer to home!
It looks utterly quaint. A shop that combines teas and antique furniture/curios! I'm already intrigued.
Sadly, Anteaques only opens on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays! (more intriguing) So I haven't managed to go in and have a look around yet. Will pop by tomorrow or the day after, time-willing!
By way of personal reflection, my various new 'discoveries' along the one road in Edinburgh I should be most familiar with has been enlightening. It just goes to show that you can live in a place for a fairly long time, and still be surprised by something new everday. If anything, these past few weeks have taught me to really get off my bum and get out there, and start exploring what's around me.
It's this kind of energy and curiousity which I hope I'll bring back to Singapore. Admittedly, most of my time since growing up has been spent in school, at home or in nearby recreational areas with friends like the mall or the cinema. School holidays usually see me going abroad for vacation with the family; hanging out in the same-ish shopping / eating / drinking districts with friends or just chilling at home. So I guess I can't say confidently that I really know Singapore inside-out.
Edinburgh is about 1/3 the size of Singapore, and I've only just begun to scratch beneath the surface in the past few weeks - and I have to admit, it's only happened because of the amount of free time I have now, and the force with which I'm pushing myself to see things before I leave. And even then, I'm still encountering new things everyday, even in places which I think I've seen enough of.
It really leads me to wonder: at what point does Time stop being an important factor when deciding how well you 'know' a place? Living in Singapore for 21 years, but having a mere fraction of the energy I have now to explore, how much have I left undiscovered in the place I call 'home'?
This is the road I've been taking for months now to school, and I've seen it so often that I'm almost sick of it. Yet despite always being in a rush to get to my lectures (late-riser that I am), I've frequently been surprised by the appearance of 'new' shops along this seemingly all-too-familiar route - it's enough for me to slow down and take a closer look.
Of course these stores aren't new. They've been there all along, but are generally overlooked as I walk briskly past them, head down. However every now and then, some of them suddenly come to light thanks to a casual glimpse or head-turn at just the right moment.
My walk today also surfaced more outlets which have managed to remain hidden for a whole 5 months...
1. Engine Shed Cafe, St Leonard's Lane
Okay fine, so this isn't on Clerk Street but it is situated along St Leonard's road which is just parallel to the former! This is also an alternative route I take to school - favoured, because there are less traffic lights and vehicles, and the road is downward sloping (hehe). At the same time, I've always thought it was a bit of a quiet street with not all that much going on for it.
Took a sidestreet today, and found myself on St Leonard's lane. Walked a little further and found The Engine Shed Cafe.
The second floor houses a cheerful little cafe, which used to be linked to a now demolished railway station (hence the industrial-sounding name). It's a large and airy space with high ceilings, and plenty of windows which flood the place with natural sunlight. The Engine shed cafe offers fuss-free self service dining, canteen style - the menu is written on a blackboard next to the serving counter and includes a host of organic and vegetarian dishes including Moroccan vegetable stew with cous-cous, and home-made hommus dips with oatcakes.
One interesting feature about the Engine Shed Cafe is its commitment to hiring staff with learning difficulties. The cafe aims to train and empower these individuals by giving them work experience, and equipping them with practical and transferable skills. I think it's a good concept, and I would encourage you to come with an open mind, plenty of patience and a big smile for the staff! 
I had a large bowl of carrot and coconut soup with a fresh roll - an unusual combination but tasted quite good. To top it off, I ordered a chocolate cake which was really nice! They have quite a selection of sweet treats on the counter including raspberry flapjacks and carrot cakes, some of which are vegan-friendly.In general, you can come here for nice, healthy and simple meals at reasonable prices (paid 3.50pounds for the entire thing). There's also a bakery on the first floor, which produces a selection of breads, some of which are suitable for yeast or wheat free diets. And finally, the Engine Shed also sells a range of tofus and oatcakes! Mm, vegetarian food has never sounded so good.
2. The Himalaya: Charity Shop and Cafe
South Clerk Street
So this ranks as one of the more unusual charity shops I've seen thus far. You're immediately hit by the cloying smell of incense the moment you enter. The front of the store stocks a host of exotic-looking products including Buddhist prayer beads, hand-made jewelry from Tibet, fine silk scarves and Indian-style cushion covers.
But this is not just a place to pick up quirky Asian curios. The Himalaya also appears to be quite a socially and politically conscious enterprise. According to a sign in the shop, the proceeds go toward a variety of charitable causes which help children in the Himalayan region. The shop also features photographs of the Dalai Lama, and sells a variety of 'Free Tibet' t-shirts.
There's also a cosy sort of cafe round the back, and a basement space where various activities are held including yoga and massage workshops. An interesting place definitely worth checking out!
3. Anteaques, Clerk Street
So there are a handful of stores in Edinburgh which specialize in unusual product pairings. Elvis Shakespeare along Leith walk is one, selling second-hand music and books. And now I've found Anteaques which is closer to home!
It looks utterly quaint. A shop that combines teas and antique furniture/curios! I'm already intrigued.
Sadly, Anteaques only opens on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays! (more intriguing) So I haven't managed to go in and have a look around yet. Will pop by tomorrow or the day after, time-willing!
By way of personal reflection, my various new 'discoveries' along the one road in Edinburgh I should be most familiar with has been enlightening. It just goes to show that you can live in a place for a fairly long time, and still be surprised by something new everday. If anything, these past few weeks have taught me to really get off my bum and get out there, and start exploring what's around me.
It's this kind of energy and curiousity which I hope I'll bring back to Singapore. Admittedly, most of my time since growing up has been spent in school, at home or in nearby recreational areas with friends like the mall or the cinema. School holidays usually see me going abroad for vacation with the family; hanging out in the same-ish shopping / eating / drinking districts with friends or just chilling at home. So I guess I can't say confidently that I really know Singapore inside-out.
Edinburgh is about 1/3 the size of Singapore, and I've only just begun to scratch beneath the surface in the past few weeks - and I have to admit, it's only happened because of the amount of free time I have now, and the force with which I'm pushing myself to see things before I leave. And even then, I'm still encountering new things everyday, even in places which I think I've seen enough of.
It really leads me to wonder: at what point does Time stop being an important factor when deciding how well you 'know' a place? Living in Singapore for 21 years, but having a mere fraction of the energy I have now to explore, how much have I left undiscovered in the place I call 'home'?
An Indoorsy Wednesday: Auction Houses and Dance Studios
Did a weird assortment of things on Wednesday, jumping from place to place. Headed off to Broughton Place on a bit of a whim, to catch my first ever art auction!
After that, poked around Valvona and Crolla along Elm Row, a 70-odd year institution set up by Italian immigrants; apparently, this food emporium was so successful that it became the first port of call for waves of other Italian immigrants in the early 20th-century. Today, you can go in and marvel at the floor-to-ceiling shelves which are stocked with an international array of food products, in addition to a tasty looking cheese-counter and wine section! Bought some prettily-packaged tea leaves for my teachers back home - I think a soothing brew will be what they need when pouring over our research papers.
After that, I hopped down for some takeaway fish and chips at the Montgomery fish bar (very friendly and very loud Italian cook; pretty good fish!); went for a dance class at Grassmarket and ended the day with a nice dinner at Pinsheng's place where we had home-cooked food (though I got lazy and just brought some wine :P) and a very intense game of Monopoly where everyone except Jules went spectacularly bankrupt.
Some of the above proved to be rather interesting indoorsy places to wile the time away - wish I had known about them earlier, especially during the winter season! They would have been nice alternatives to staying cooped up in the library or my room, facebooking incessantly. So if ever you're stuck in Edinburgh on a cold, wintery day wondering what to do, you can consider getting yourself down to these places for some nice, indoorsy activities!
1. Lyon and Turnbull, 33 Broughton Place
Okay so this might not be to everyone's taste, but I scoured the web on Tuesday night and realized there was an auction occuring in Edinburgh on Wednesday - I had to go! I've never been to an auction before despite spending a whole week discussing and studying the Art market in my art history class. In addition, the auction in question featured fine jewelry and silver! xD (cue nerdy grin)
Best of all, I called ahead on Wednesday morning, and the friendly lady I spoke to informed me that anyone could come down for the auction even if they weren't intending to buy anything. With those reassurances, I felt emboldened to make my way down to the very sophisticated sounding Lyon and Turnbull, Scotland's oldest firm of auctioneers and appraisers.
Lyon and Turnbull is situated in a nice neoclassical building along a quiet street. The salesroom is the first thing you'll see when you get inside, and it's true that anyone can just walk in, no questions asked. So that I did, feeling rather excited as I took my place between rather genteel-looking ladies of leisure. Some interesting observations I made during my first auction:
1. Seating: There are plush-looking seats arranged in the centre of the room for visitors, but I was surprised to see quite a few people sitting right at the back of the salesroom on the steps! I wondered why they were doing that, until the auction got underway.
There are some benefits to sitting on the steps: from your place at the back of the room, you can observe everyone else and see clearly who's placing the bids - from what I noticed, the auctioning process is extremely rapid. Call me silly but I was expecting bidders to wave their auction cards wildly like they sometimes do in those Hollywood movies. However from what I saw, bidders tend to communicate with the auctioneer using fairly subtle gestures - a slight nod of the head or a discrete flick of the wrist combined with eye contact. It was sometimes hard to see who was bidding from where I sat, and almost impossible to tell if someone on the steps was placing a bid unless I craned my neck right around. So yes, sitting at the back on the stairs - smart move if you want to observe the proceedings better.
2. The Noise: I realize that a lot goes on in an auction, apart from the sale itself. In the salesroom for instance, staff from Lyon and Turnbull are stationed at two rows of tables which flank the sitting area. They are constantly on the phone with clients, giving them real-time updates on the auction, information on the latest bids placed and also placing bids on their behalf. An antique Jewish wedding ring in particular, saw an exciting bidding war waged between 4 phone bidders communicating through their representatives at L&T. The lot, estimated at 1500 - 2000 pounds on the catalogue, was eventually sold for a whooping 15 000pounds to one of the four very persistent bidders! And we never got to find out who it was >.<
Apart from the phone business, there are also quite a few people who mill around checking out the lots, which are displayed on either side of the salesroom - here, another revelation: they don't physically bring the lots up onstage during the auction. If you want to view the items or obtain more information about them, you should either attend a viewing session prior to the auction, or consult the catalogue. Nevertheless, some people will roam around the salesroom just before the auction starts. In addition, there's also a viewing gallery on the second floor which overlooks the salesroom. On Wednesday, the gallery featured several paintings about to be auctioned off at a later date. Consequently, there were a handful of viewers walking about on the second floor, with the occasional curious individual peering over the balustrade to look at us.
So as you can tell, there's a lot of clatter and chatter going on at any one time during an auction. People frequently stand up to move about as well. This makes it rather lively, and there are always interesting observations to be made! Glad I went down for a look see. You can view upcoming auctions at Lyon and Turnbull here!
2. Dance Base, 14 - 16 Grassmarket
This place touts itself as Scotland's National Centre for Dance, and has an amazing line-up of dance programmes. I'm most impressed by their daily selection of 'drop-in' classes - basically, you just turn up on the day itself half an hour before the class you're interested in; make payment, change into comfortable attire and just dance! There's no need for bookings or reservations. Consequently, it's a great way to sample a whole range of classes on offer, with no obligation to continue.
Wednesday's line-up included Ballet for Lunch, Ceilidh dancing, Contact Improvisation, Free-style Contemporary, Hip Hop for Beginners and Pilates! Each class also has a difficulty level assigned to it, so you can make an informed choice based on your fitness levels and how much dance experience you have.
I opted for the Gentle Jazz class (5 pounds, student concession) at 5pm, which is graded at Level 1 (easy-peasy!) and thus suitable for beginners. Really fun stuff! The class was taken by a young-ish lady named Grainne who was so nice and enthusiastic. It wasn't a very popular class - just a handful of people in a huge studio, so it was quite nerve-wracking knowing that I wouldn't be able to hide my mistakes behind a whole crowd of other people! However Grainne was very patient and encouraging, which helped mitigate the self-consciousness. All in all, a good afternoon with little nuggets of jazz set to the soundtrack of Hairspray! Enjoyed it quite a bit! :)
I really recommend going down for a class on those days where you've got nothing else to do except sit at home and mooch around. It's a fun and healthy form of exercise; you get to meet new people; and the selection of classes is quite wide so there's definitely something for everyone, whether you're young, old, a newbie, or a seasoned dancer. Check out their drop-in programme here! The classes have been organized in various categories for easy browsing and selection.
After that, poked around Valvona and Crolla along Elm Row, a 70-odd year institution set up by Italian immigrants; apparently, this food emporium was so successful that it became the first port of call for waves of other Italian immigrants in the early 20th-century. Today, you can go in and marvel at the floor-to-ceiling shelves which are stocked with an international array of food products, in addition to a tasty looking cheese-counter and wine section! Bought some prettily-packaged tea leaves for my teachers back home - I think a soothing brew will be what they need when pouring over our research papers.
After that, I hopped down for some takeaway fish and chips at the Montgomery fish bar (very friendly and very loud Italian cook; pretty good fish!); went for a dance class at Grassmarket and ended the day with a nice dinner at Pinsheng's place where we had home-cooked food (though I got lazy and just brought some wine :P) and a very intense game of Monopoly where everyone except Jules went spectacularly bankrupt.
Some of the above proved to be rather interesting indoorsy places to wile the time away - wish I had known about them earlier, especially during the winter season! They would have been nice alternatives to staying cooped up in the library or my room, facebooking incessantly. So if ever you're stuck in Edinburgh on a cold, wintery day wondering what to do, you can consider getting yourself down to these places for some nice, indoorsy activities!
1. Lyon and Turnbull, 33 Broughton Place
Okay so this might not be to everyone's taste, but I scoured the web on Tuesday night and realized there was an auction occuring in Edinburgh on Wednesday - I had to go! I've never been to an auction before despite spending a whole week discussing and studying the Art market in my art history class. In addition, the auction in question featured fine jewelry and silver! xD (cue nerdy grin)
Best of all, I called ahead on Wednesday morning, and the friendly lady I spoke to informed me that anyone could come down for the auction even if they weren't intending to buy anything. With those reassurances, I felt emboldened to make my way down to the very sophisticated sounding Lyon and Turnbull, Scotland's oldest firm of auctioneers and appraisers.
Lyon and Turnbull is situated in a nice neoclassical building along a quiet street. The salesroom is the first thing you'll see when you get inside, and it's true that anyone can just walk in, no questions asked. So that I did, feeling rather excited as I took my place between rather genteel-looking ladies of leisure. Some interesting observations I made during my first auction:
1. Seating: There are plush-looking seats arranged in the centre of the room for visitors, but I was surprised to see quite a few people sitting right at the back of the salesroom on the steps! I wondered why they were doing that, until the auction got underway.
There are some benefits to sitting on the steps: from your place at the back of the room, you can observe everyone else and see clearly who's placing the bids - from what I noticed, the auctioning process is extremely rapid. Call me silly but I was expecting bidders to wave their auction cards wildly like they sometimes do in those Hollywood movies. However from what I saw, bidders tend to communicate with the auctioneer using fairly subtle gestures - a slight nod of the head or a discrete flick of the wrist combined with eye contact. It was sometimes hard to see who was bidding from where I sat, and almost impossible to tell if someone on the steps was placing a bid unless I craned my neck right around. So yes, sitting at the back on the stairs - smart move if you want to observe the proceedings better.
2. The Noise: I realize that a lot goes on in an auction, apart from the sale itself. In the salesroom for instance, staff from Lyon and Turnbull are stationed at two rows of tables which flank the sitting area. They are constantly on the phone with clients, giving them real-time updates on the auction, information on the latest bids placed and also placing bids on their behalf. An antique Jewish wedding ring in particular, saw an exciting bidding war waged between 4 phone bidders communicating through their representatives at L&T. The lot, estimated at 1500 - 2000 pounds on the catalogue, was eventually sold for a whooping 15 000pounds to one of the four very persistent bidders! And we never got to find out who it was >.<
Apart from the phone business, there are also quite a few people who mill around checking out the lots, which are displayed on either side of the salesroom - here, another revelation: they don't physically bring the lots up onstage during the auction. If you want to view the items or obtain more information about them, you should either attend a viewing session prior to the auction, or consult the catalogue. Nevertheless, some people will roam around the salesroom just before the auction starts. In addition, there's also a viewing gallery on the second floor which overlooks the salesroom. On Wednesday, the gallery featured several paintings about to be auctioned off at a later date. Consequently, there were a handful of viewers walking about on the second floor, with the occasional curious individual peering over the balustrade to look at us.
So as you can tell, there's a lot of clatter and chatter going on at any one time during an auction. People frequently stand up to move about as well. This makes it rather lively, and there are always interesting observations to be made! Glad I went down for a look see. You can view upcoming auctions at Lyon and Turnbull here!
2. Dance Base, 14 - 16 Grassmarket
This place touts itself as Scotland's National Centre for Dance, and has an amazing line-up of dance programmes. I'm most impressed by their daily selection of 'drop-in' classes - basically, you just turn up on the day itself half an hour before the class you're interested in; make payment, change into comfortable attire and just dance! There's no need for bookings or reservations. Consequently, it's a great way to sample a whole range of classes on offer, with no obligation to continue.
Wednesday's line-up included Ballet for Lunch, Ceilidh dancing, Contact Improvisation, Free-style Contemporary, Hip Hop for Beginners and Pilates! Each class also has a difficulty level assigned to it, so you can make an informed choice based on your fitness levels and how much dance experience you have.
I opted for the Gentle Jazz class (5 pounds, student concession) at 5pm, which is graded at Level 1 (easy-peasy!) and thus suitable for beginners. Really fun stuff! The class was taken by a young-ish lady named Grainne who was so nice and enthusiastic. It wasn't a very popular class - just a handful of people in a huge studio, so it was quite nerve-wracking knowing that I wouldn't be able to hide my mistakes behind a whole crowd of other people! However Grainne was very patient and encouraging, which helped mitigate the self-consciousness. All in all, a good afternoon with little nuggets of jazz set to the soundtrack of Hairspray! Enjoyed it quite a bit! :)
I really recommend going down for a class on those days where you've got nothing else to do except sit at home and mooch around. It's a fun and healthy form of exercise; you get to meet new people; and the selection of classes is quite wide so there's definitely something for everyone, whether you're young, old, a newbie, or a seasoned dancer. Check out their drop-in programme here! The classes have been organized in various categories for easy browsing and selection.
Tuesday, 26 May 2009
Of Wontons and Brownies
4 months of repetitive dining hall food has put me on a rampage across Edinburgh to find good grub, savoury snacks and delectable desserts at student-friendly prices. Here are a couple more comments on eats around the city.
1. The Lee On, 3 - 5 Bruntsfield Place
After visiting Chop Chop I knew I had to come here if only to compare the Chinese cuisine! At the same time, I also wanted to test an online review I'd come across before which bemoaned the sorry state of East Asian cuisine in Edinburgh.
The Lee On has apparently been serving Cantonese-style dishes for 40 years now! That's a mark of amazing longevity, and I had the opportunity to check this place out on Tuesday.
The shopfront is a distinctive red, with a series of port-holes revealing Chinese-style lanterns hanging from the ceiling inside. An English-language menu displayed on the window also serves to entice hungry travellers inside.
Surprisingly, the main dining area in the restaurant is situated all the way down in the basement. It's a little subterranean network of rooms, all of which are well lit and neatly furnished with (what else?) cheerful red table cloths. I dined in a room which included two other French men sipping red wine, and a group of Scottish regulars discussing Britain's Got Talent over vegetable spring roll starters.
After being handed a menu written in Chinese, I requested to see the English one which had been displayed on the storefront - I already had my eye on a particular dish, and wasn't sure what it would be called in Mandarin. However after some hesitation, the Chinese waitress admitted that the two menus are actually different - apparently the Chinese menu contains dishes aimed at a specifically Chinese clientale. Some of these options are not available on the English menu. This was quite interesting and I told her I would consult both menus before deciding!
Strangely enough however, the dishes on the Chinese menu appeared the pricier of the two. I had expected the reverse to be true, but oh well.
In the end, I submitted to my craving for comfort food and ordered a wonton noodle soup off the Chinese menu. The noodle dishes on the English menu appeared limited, and were mostly of the fried 'chow mein' variety - didn't see any soupy options sadly.
First off this is some pricey noodle dish - the stated price in the menu was about 8pounds if I remember correctly. You can get the same dish for a fraction of that in Singapore - though admittedly not in a restaurant setting. However that said, these wonton noodles were good - about as close as you can get to the ones back home. Nice springy noodles with a good 'bite,' fresh leafy vegetables (yum! The right kind as well.) and best of all, delectable won tons with silky smooth skins. And to Lee On's credit, there were a lot of wontons - I counted at least eight of those pork, chive and mushroom dumplings. It's nice to see a restaurant that doesn't sting on the good stuff!
Other little things made my experience at Lee On a pretty good one: firstly, I was immediately handed a huge pot of Chinese tea the minute I sat down. This turned out to be complimentary, which I felt was pretty generous seeing how I was a solo diner. Strangely enough, I did not notice any pots on the neighbouring tables - hmm.
Secondly, got a pleasant surprise when I received the hand-written bill. For some reason they had knocked off a whole 1.50pound from the meal. I'm not sure why. In any case, I wasn't complaining at all. Perhaps they liked me hehehe.
I think it helps to converse with the predominantly Chinese staff in Mandarin - even inexpertly, like myself. I have a feeling it helps break down barriers and open some doors, if you know what I mean.
One downside about dining in Lee On - as mentioned earlier, most of the seating area is located in the basement. Throughout my meal, I heard thundering footsteps on the wooden staircase as waitresses zipped back and forth, welcoming new guests and showing them down to the tables. A little distracting - definitely not the right place for a quiet date. But otherwise, was pleased overall with The Lee On. The noodles at least have gotten my stamp of approval!
2. Back yet Again! Brownies at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe
The chocolate craving finally hit as I knew it would someday. So it was off to the Fruitmarket Gallery to sample their brownies this afternoon!
It's not the best brownie I've had, but it is still good. The brownie has a thick, slightly crunchy crust ontop, and the rest of it has a chewy, almost fudgy texture. It's my personal preference for brownies to be more moist, however I really enjoyed this one all the same! Nevertheless I think it's hard to top the Fruitmarket cafe's rhubarb tart - it ranks as one of the best sweet treats I've had in a long while!
In any case, after three good experiences here this month, two of which pertained to their lip-smacking desserts, I have nothing but praise for the Fruitmarket gallery. Come here to view the art, browse the bookshop, or just head straight to the cafe for cakes or lunch - their meals look great as well. I'm tempted by the crayfish and avocado salad, and the Seafood platter! Mmmm. So much good food, so little time.
1. The Lee On, 3 - 5 Bruntsfield Place
After visiting Chop Chop I knew I had to come here if only to compare the Chinese cuisine! At the same time, I also wanted to test an online review I'd come across before which bemoaned the sorry state of East Asian cuisine in Edinburgh.The Lee On has apparently been serving Cantonese-style dishes for 40 years now! That's a mark of amazing longevity, and I had the opportunity to check this place out on Tuesday.
The shopfront is a distinctive red, with a series of port-holes revealing Chinese-style lanterns hanging from the ceiling inside. An English-language menu displayed on the window also serves to entice hungry travellers inside.
Surprisingly, the main dining area in the restaurant is situated all the way down in the basement. It's a little subterranean network of rooms, all of which are well lit and neatly furnished with (what else?) cheerful red table cloths. I dined in a room which included two other French men sipping red wine, and a group of Scottish regulars discussing Britain's Got Talent over vegetable spring roll starters.
After being handed a menu written in Chinese, I requested to see the English one which had been displayed on the storefront - I already had my eye on a particular dish, and wasn't sure what it would be called in Mandarin. However after some hesitation, the Chinese waitress admitted that the two menus are actually different - apparently the Chinese menu contains dishes aimed at a specifically Chinese clientale. Some of these options are not available on the English menu. This was quite interesting and I told her I would consult both menus before deciding!
Strangely enough however, the dishes on the Chinese menu appeared the pricier of the two. I had expected the reverse to be true, but oh well.
In the end, I submitted to my craving for comfort food and ordered a wonton noodle soup off the Chinese menu. The noodle dishes on the English menu appeared limited, and were mostly of the fried 'chow mein' variety - didn't see any soupy options sadly.
First off this is some pricey noodle dish - the stated price in the menu was about 8pounds if I remember correctly. You can get the same dish for a fraction of that in Singapore - though admittedly not in a restaurant setting. However that said, these wonton noodles were good - about as close as you can get to the ones back home. Nice springy noodles with a good 'bite,' fresh leafy vegetables (yum! The right kind as well.) and best of all, delectable won tons with silky smooth skins. And to Lee On's credit, there were a lot of wontons - I counted at least eight of those pork, chive and mushroom dumplings. It's nice to see a restaurant that doesn't sting on the good stuff!
Other little things made my experience at Lee On a pretty good one: firstly, I was immediately handed a huge pot of Chinese tea the minute I sat down. This turned out to be complimentary, which I felt was pretty generous seeing how I was a solo diner. Strangely enough, I did not notice any pots on the neighbouring tables - hmm.
Secondly, got a pleasant surprise when I received the hand-written bill. For some reason they had knocked off a whole 1.50pound from the meal. I'm not sure why. In any case, I wasn't complaining at all. Perhaps they liked me hehehe.
I think it helps to converse with the predominantly Chinese staff in Mandarin - even inexpertly, like myself. I have a feeling it helps break down barriers and open some doors, if you know what I mean.
One downside about dining in Lee On - as mentioned earlier, most of the seating area is located in the basement. Throughout my meal, I heard thundering footsteps on the wooden staircase as waitresses zipped back and forth, welcoming new guests and showing them down to the tables. A little distracting - definitely not the right place for a quiet date. But otherwise, was pleased overall with The Lee On. The noodles at least have gotten my stamp of approval!
2. Back yet Again! Brownies at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe
The chocolate craving finally hit as I knew it would someday. So it was off to the Fruitmarket Gallery to sample their brownies this afternoon!
It's not the best brownie I've had, but it is still good. The brownie has a thick, slightly crunchy crust ontop, and the rest of it has a chewy, almost fudgy texture. It's my personal preference for brownies to be more moist, however I really enjoyed this one all the same! Nevertheless I think it's hard to top the Fruitmarket cafe's rhubarb tart - it ranks as one of the best sweet treats I've had in a long while!In any case, after three good experiences here this month, two of which pertained to their lip-smacking desserts, I have nothing but praise for the Fruitmarket gallery. Come here to view the art, browse the bookshop, or just head straight to the cafe for cakes or lunch - their meals look great as well. I'm tempted by the crayfish and avocado salad, and the Seafood platter! Mmmm. So much good food, so little time.
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