Breakin' Conventions, 190509

Took a break from revision and went for Breakin' Convention last night - described by the organizers as an 'international festival of hip hop dance theatre,' Breakin' Convention sees 6 different hip-hop acts touring the UK this month - half are comprised of local performers, and the other 3 are international ones hailing from France, South Korea and the US.

I went mainly because it sounded like it might be interesting - hip hop theatre? That's something new. You don't often see popping and locking in such classy, formal settings. I had to see it for myself.

Pre-performance entertainment occured in the foyer, and included an open stage for local breakdancers to show off their moves. Really entertaining, especially after boys in the audience as young as 8 or 9 joined in the fun!





Presenting El Diaz - one of the break-dancers entertaining the floor before the show started. He's really fit.


Performer and emcee Tony Thrills taking the stage just before the show started proper. He's really good.

A kid getting in on the action. He couldn't have been older than 11!

The show started promptly at 7.30pm, and was emceed by artistic director, Jonzi D and one of the performers, Tony Thrills of Random Aspekts. Overall impressions of the show: wasn't impressed with a couple of the acts, but was totally and stupendously floored by some. Ultimately however, the stereotypes I had involving baggy man-shirts and flashy bling were completely smashed and I came out with a greater appreciation of how versatile hip hop as a dance form can be.

Even if I didn't like all the performances, I have to say it was a very carefully chosen line-up which demonstrated a great diversity of styles. The local act which stood out was Random Aspekts, and its highly entertaining and equally charged dance narrative which was an instant crowd-pleaser. Sin Cru delivered a rather confusing but nevertheless, bold experimental attempt to marry hip hop with modern/contemporary dance and live dialogue - it was hip hop gone avant-garde, and judging by the giggles from the audience, not everyone 'got it' (have to admit, I was a bit at sea too). Nevertheless, Sin Cru received very loud applause at the end. I did not expect to see acts interpreting hip hop as a 'serious' art form, so this was certainly very novel.

The surprises continued as the international acts dominated the second half of the performance. I was a little disappointed with the group from the States, however the other two made the 13 pound ticket worth it.

Salah from France is a.m.a.z.i.n.g. His performance was essentially a combination of stand-up comedy, mime and dance, which drew both laughter and gasps of amazement from the audience. He adopts a persona called 'Gluby' for his performance - some kind of child who talks in a high-pitched voice and banters with the audience. It's highly amusing, but also serves to heighten the impact (or shock) when he suddenly breaks out into dance at various parts of his comic routine.

This is an excerpt from my favourite part of his performance: he's dancing with a tissue (seriously). And no, the video was not sped up at certain parts - he really has incredible movement and body control.

The other big highlight of the night was MyoSung, a troop of dancers all the way from South Korea. Theirs was the longest performance, but was the most impressive in my opinion. The choreography was tight and top-notch - imagine break-dancing infused with elements of ballet and Irish river-dancing, set against a soundtrack which includes John Lenon's "Imagine" and a string-plucked version of Pachelbel's Canon. It was sheer eclectic brilliance, and the dancing itself was phenomenal - hats off to the lads from South Korea! They got a well-deserved standing ovation.

Here's just a small sample of their opening dance - incidently, the Kim Il Jung lookalike (complete with bad hair) in the clip is Mr Zino Seol, their choreographer.

A fantastic evening of entertainment, and one which really showed me the breadth and range of Hip hop onstage. Kudos to Breakin' Convention for really...well...breaking conventions.

Migrant Issues in Edinburgh: A Polish Encounter

One surprise I've had coming to Edinburgh is that I haven't encountered as many Scottish students as I thought I would. If anything, most of my classmates and the people I bump into in Pollock Halls (judging by their accents) are English. There is also a fairly sizeable international population, with many students hailing from Asia.

Despite its relatively small size, Edinburgh is commonly referred to as a global and cosmopolitan city. Curious to know more, I spent my morning yesterday searching online for information on the ethnic composition of Scotland's capital. The most recent population census I could find was dated in 2001, which listed the largest non-White ethnic minorities as Chinese, Indian and Pakistani. Click here to find out a little more.

However my little internet search also threw up scores of news articles in more recent years dealing with the phenomenal influx of Polish migrants into Scotland. It seems immigration numbers have been on the rise ever since Poland joined the EU in 2004.

Even if you're not keeping up with the news, you can definitely feel the Polish presence in Edinburgh, and it's contentious place with (some) Scots - whether it be through the parodic portrayals of Polish migrants at comedy clubs, or the offhand remarks made in guidebooks about nice Polish delis springing up in Leith despite general 'complaints' about immigrants. Skimming through some of these articles yesterday helped confirm and clarify my vague sense of there being a sizeable migrant community viewed in ambivalent terms by the locals.

Some articles I bookmarked can be found here and here. In particular, I like reading the comments posted in response to the articles - even though some of them are not the most coherent or PC, they give a sense of the opinion on the ground which is usually at variance with what's officially reported.

Something intriguing I notice is the frequent distinction drawn between industrious and hardworking Poles, and the 'lazy,' 'idle' Scots who won't do menial jobs - how far are these stereotypes true though? Are they fair and useful distinctions to make, and on what basis do they rest?

So after getting my fill of news, I headed down on impulse to Leith Walk that same afternoon - not for window shopping this time, but to try and find first-hand evidence of the Polish community in Edinburgh. I've previously mentioned how the numerous ethnic eateries in Leith really express Edinburgh's diverse population - so with that in mind, I revisited the area keeping a curious eye out for a specifically Polish presence.

Stepping out of bus 14 on Leith Walk, it didn't take me long to bump into my first few Polish outposts in Edinburgh. Polish supermarkets like Polski Smak and Deli Polonia are not particularly large, but are nevertheless quite visible along the stretch. Had fun poking around both stores (though Deli Polonia is larger and has more things to see) - the sheer range of imported products really makes you feel like you've been transplanted to Warsaw or something. It's almost jarring to realize that Marks and Spencer - bastion of quintessential British-ness - is a mere 15-minute walk away.

I enjoyed just checking out the foodstuff in Deli Polonia - everything from the vats of pickled gherkins, to the sausages to the packets of ready-made pierogi (traditional Slavic dumplings) was quite novel. I broke in my virgin Polish palette with a gigantic poppy-seed roll, purchased at the Deli for just 0.75pence. Not quite my favourite snack I think, but interesting to try.

Ended up with a late lunch at Bigos on Leith walk - named after the national dish of Poland! This was my first time trying Polish food, so I don't have any way of judging if the dishes were 'good,' 'bad' or '(in)authentic.' However it was certainly quite cheap (7 pounds, 2 courses). It was not exactly filling, the main ingredient in both courses being vegetables, however the meal was quite tasty and satisfying. The service was also friendly and exceedingly polite, despite the rather alarming-looking bear skin rug on the wall.

I had a vegetable soup for starters which was nice and warm - perfect, as the weather outside was stormy.


And I also ordered Bigos (a cabbage stew) for my main. The menu advertises this as a sauerkraut stew with various meats mixed in with red wine. However it's really more cabbage than anything else - I was definitely expecting more meat than what was on the plate. However, I generally like sauerkraut, so not too many complaints there. It was pretty tasty as well.


Bigos is a nice, cosy place to curl up over a hot meal. They do other 'traditional' Polish dishes as well, in addition to a large selection of more generic pizzas and snacks.

I'm glad I made the trip down to Leith. Food's always a nice introduction to a different culture, whilst keeping you happy, filled and nourished. It was also nice to glimpse hints of a kind of community spirit in the stores I visited - apart from the food, stacks of free magazines in Polish sit next to the counter of Deli Polonia, presumbly aimed at Polish migrants. Store-owners also chat freely with their customers in Polish, whilst handing them fresh rolls of artisan breads - normal Scottish bread is an abomination to them apparently.

It would certainly be interesting to probe the migrant experience in Edinburgh more deeply. The articles I read about qualified Polish economists and accountants taking up jobs as chamber-maids and chippie shop assistants in Scotland disturbed me a little. It also seems to bear uncomfortable parallels with the situation of some migrant labourers in Singapore.

Perhaps I ought to take a more active interest in migrant welfare and issues when I get home. In the meantime, this has given me a new perspective of Edinburgh; it's not just a 'Scottish' city, but one that is becoming increasingly diverse, and struggling to negotiate that diversity.

On a more personal note, this is a timely reminder for myself that Edinburgh's not just a place for me to enjoy indiscriminately (a temptation when on exchange, very guilty as charged). It's also a society with its own set of problems, and I should at least try and acquaint myself with them having lived here for half a year.

Another Secret: Edinburgh Farmer's Market

In London, street markets selling anything from antiques to clothing to agricultural produce are almost de rigeur. The Portobello and Camden markets are famous tourist pit-stops in their own right, and see thronging crowds on weekends.

So that got me thinking: surely Edinburgh must have some markets of its own?

A quick search on google earlier this week threw up the Edinburgh Farmer's Market which occurs (impressively), every Saturday from 9am - 2pm. Local farmers converge at Castle Terrace, under the imposing shadow of the Edinburgh castle selling nothing but the freshest and finest specimens of Scottish produce.

Forcing myself out of bed at 9am (early for me), I took a brisk walk to the Castle Terrace. Upon arrival, I spied a row of cheerful umbrella-ed stalls, each bearing the name of the farmer/producer and the wares on sale.

This is an excellent place to pick up fresh groceries whilst ensuring your money goes right back to local producers. Some products you can get at the market include organic beers, free-range eggs, fruits and veges, artisan breads and chocolates, honey, a selection of meats, and even fresh seafood from the Isle of Arran. The stallholders are lovely, and there's a great camaraderie between them and the regulars who come armed with large grocery bags and little shopping trolleys.

The market is not very large, but you can just take your time to browse and soak in the atmosphere. A tip: come on an empty stomach. There's tons of food available at the market, and most of it is freshly cooked or prepared in front of you.

I picked up an Ostrich meat burger, simply because it sounded so exotic! Not too bad but a bit dry and not as juicy as I thought. I would recommend you try out the Aberdeen Angus Burger if it's available, simply because it looked and smelt so good. If however, you're still inclined toward the unconventional, try the Buffalo meat burger. It's whipped up personally by a rather photogenic young farmer from West Fife - who says farmers have to look old and weather-beaten? Hehe.

Also finally managed to try Stoats Porridge! The mobile Stoats Porridge Bar sets up shop at the Farmer's Market, and by the looks of it, is a smash hit with visitors. They do porridge with a variety of toppings, ranging from just plain brown sugar, to a selection of choice fruits and maple syrup. The most popular recipe is the 'Cranachan' which is porridge accompanied by honey, single cream, toasted sweet oats and topped with fresh Scottish raspberries.

The Cranachan, 3 pounds

This is pure comfort food - warm, humble and totally homely. Something your granny would've served you in bed on those cold dreary days.

So whether you're a foodie, or into supporting local farmers, or just curious, I recommend you definitely check out the farmer's market on a Saturday. Go early before all the good stuff is gone, grab a tasty burger, a soup or a rhubarb pie, and munch slowly as you do your rounds. It's worth waking up a little early for!

Graffiti in Edinburgh?

A quick answer to the title of this post is: Not a whole lot. As far as graffiti is concerned, the buildings and walls in Edinburgh (especially the city centre) are generally quite 'clean.'

However a good place to glimpse some rare street art would be along the footpath at Potterow, near the University of Edinburgh. I believe it's the only public wall in the city centre where graffiti art is legal, and hence presumably, easier to control and regulate.


Taken on a fine afternoon at Potterow.

Curious to find more examples of such art, I was led to the Henderson Gallery this afternoon. There, I acquainted myself with Edinburgh's answer to Banksy - local graffiti artist, Elph.

Henderson's is a small contemporary art gallery on Thistle Street which is currently hosting an exhibition of Elph's works in conjunction with the 2009 Scotland Homecoming celebrations. Fittingly, the exhibition chronicles Elph's engagement with Scotland's best known son (and Homecoming '09 icon) - Robert Burns.

Lest Bogles Catch them Unawares: Elph vs Burns is currently running till June 6. It's a small collection, but the bright, idiosyncratic images which interpret Burns and his works were just what I needed to cheer me up on an otherwise dreary Friday afternoon (the weather was horrendous).

I have never seen Elph's works on the streets, but it looks like he doesn't just rely on spray paints for his gallery works. Other mediums are incorporated including acrylic paint, watercolours and markers. Henderson's is also displaying (and selling) a large selection of Elph's sketches done in pencil and ink.

I don't ever think I've seen a graffiti artist featured in a gallery before, so this was certainly something new. I really liked how some of Elph's compositions continue outside of the canvas and onto the gallery walls themselves! The pictures consequently don't remain "within" any borders but actually manage to interact with each other, and with the gallery space itself.

You can view pictures of the exhibition here!

Elsewhere in Edinburgh, yet another graffiti artist Derm is exhibiting a series of mixed media works. Derm's Focal Range is currently housed in Pageant - a menswear store tucked away in Lauriston Street (yet another multi-purpose space!) Focal Range explores the prevalence of CCTV cameras in modern society. I was a bit underwhelmed by the exhibition personally, but if you're in the area you might as well pop in to check it out. The staff are good fun, and really friendly.

Have probably barely scratched the surface of what I'm sure is a thriving subculture of street art in Scotland. But I'm glad that I've at least wet my toes.

At the same time, I wonder if there are any tensions when graffiti - a medium so associated with the anti-establishment - becomes housed in institutionalized spaces like galleries. On one hand, I suppose it's reflective of how street art is no longer dismissed as 'vandalism,' but is being appreciated for its aesthetic qualities.

On the other hand, containing graffiti within mainstream/socially sanctioned spaces is also a rather sly way to "defang" it of its more incendiary potential as a medium of counter-cultural expression. I wonder if that's necessarily a good thing.

More questions to ponder on. In the meantime, I will also keep my eyes peeled for examples of street art in their natural, original setting - on the streets themselves! Just hope I get to them before the Edinburgh City Council cleans them off.

A Single Regret? On Charity Shops in Edinburgh

Something I wish I had looked into earlier on in my exchange: I wish I had more actively explored opportunities for volunteerism within Edinburgh.

In particular, as an avid window shopper and browser, I've been quite impressed by the concept of charity shops in the UK. Basically these shops are run by charities, and form part of their fund-raising programme. Typically, the charity shop accepts second-hand donations in kind, which might include anything such as books, old DVDs, clothes and furniture. These items are then organized and categorized by shop volunteers and eventually sold, with all proceeds going toward the charitable cause in question.

The benefits of patronizing charity shops would include, (i) supporting a charitable cause which you might personally be invested in, (ii) benefiting from the reduced prices of quality second-hand goods, (iii) helping to recycle products which might otherwise have gone into the trash.

From Oxfam to Shelter to Barnados to PDSA, there are charity stores galore in the Clerk Street/Nicolson Street area. From time to time, I've even popped into some of them to poke around. The products on sale are generally in very good condition despite being second-hand - some clothes are brand new, and carry big-store tags like Marks and Spencer's. I've been quite pleased with my finds thus far!



Some of my charity finds in the past month: Sling bag from Marie Curie Cancer Cure (I think), £3. Checked shirt from Shelter, £4.

So now on hindsight, I wish I had spotted opportunities to volunteer within these stores which I've come to admire...perhaps in Shelter (fighting homelessness) or Baranados (believe in children!) Sadly the commitment period required from store volunteers is usually a couple of months - definitely out of the question since I only have 16 more days there!

Well, if you're coming to Edinburgh on an exchange and are looking for ways to give back to the community, do consider popping by one of these charity stores - whether as a buyer, or as a volunteer. For more information check out http://www.changeworks.org.uk/content.php?linkid=347 for a map of all the charity stores within Edinburgh! :) The individual charities would also have their own websites if you want more specific information.

A Brief Note on Indie Music Stores in Edinburgh

(I use 'indie' in the sense of 'Independent,' as opposed to the genre and sub-culture associated with the term.)

So I am not a music junkie at all. I have an ipod but it is the least used thing I own. I haven't followed radio in years, and what little knowledge I have is shamelessly confined to Top 40.

That said, I popped into several Indie music stores today just to check out what was on offer beyond HMV.

Underground Solu'shn on Cockburn Street. Avalanche Records is also on the same street, and Ripping Records is just a stone's throw away on South Bridge Road.

Vinyl Villains, situated on Elm Row along Leith Walk.

Some observations I made:

1. Vinyl Villains on Elm Row doesn't just do CDs. It also has a huge selection of old vinyl records featuring artists like ACDC, Metallica, Electric Light Orchestra etc etc...

Closer to the recent past, Vinyl Villains also has a shelf full of second-hand cassette tapes dating back to the days when Prince was still known as Prince! And if that's not enough of a retro-spin for you, they even have a selection of old VHS tapes. Ah the nostalgia!

2. If you want a taste of the local Indie music scene, Avalanche Records on Cockburn Street has a prominently marked out section of Scottish bands. Other activities run by Avalanche include the newly launched 'album club,' whereby the store will send subscribers a specially-picked album each month along with additional material such as record label freebies and news of exclusive offers etc.

I've heard of such a concept before being applied to other areas like magazine subscriptions and even customized t-shirts: it sounds like an interesting idea, and I think it's kind of fun that you won't know what product to expect in your mail!

3. On the other hand, if it's live gigs you're after, make Ripping Records on Southbridge your first stop in town. In addition to CDs, Ripping Records also sells tickets for upcoming acts in Scotland - ie: effectively, Edinburgh and Glasgow. Check out the chalkboard on their counter for upcoming acts in the months to come - it's a pretty extensive list :)

Or view it online at http://www.rippingrecords.com/

Oasis and Coldplay/Jay Z are coming up in the summer months!!

4. Unlike the other record shops I visited, Underground Solu'shn (Cockburn street) seems to cater specifically to DJs. There's a large selection of House and Techno vinyl records, in addition to other DJ accessories like sound mixers which line the walls.

5. And finally, if you're new in town and wondering where are the best places to club or to catch some live music, make any independent record shop your first port-of-call. I've realized that they are one of the best sources of information about music and nightlife in general.

There's Ripping Records' gig list, but all the other record shops I visited also stock flyers and promotional material for some of the hottest clubs in town, and the various gigs and DJs they're hosting.

Some materials I picked up today.

Most of these shops would also carry various lifestyle magazines, in addition to publications which deal more specifically with the music scene in Scotland or the United Kingdom. Some of these are also free including The Fly. So you can just grab one to go, and pour over it later if you wish to find out more about up-and-coming artists and live concerts occuring around the UK.

So happy browsin'! :)

Leith Walk and Broughton Street: Retail Picks

I would definitely recommend the stretch along Broughton Street and Leith Walk as food strips (see earlier entry), however there are a clutch of interesting stores as well ranging from independent boutiques to second-hand bookstores. Here were my top 3 favourite browsing experiences today:

1. Threadbare, Broughton Street

You would have thought, from the last few entries, that I'd have exhausted my appetite for Vintage. I thought I had, until I chanced upon Threadbare.

Walking through Threadbare is a perilous activity: the aisles are so narrow you can barely walk through. The racks are bursting with clothes which continually threaten to encroach onto the already claustrophic walking space.

This is a shop where you really have to get down and dirty, sifting through the straining mass of fabric, and contorting your body into awkward positions to peer behind those mannequin torsos scattered around. I found the most gorgeous dress ever quite by accident - it was hanging off an antique mirror which was in turn obscured by a rack of clothes. I was later told that the dress was a new arrival (just in yesterday!) It was truly pretty - red rose-print on a white background. Sadly, too big for me!

The cluttered, creche-like space is presided over by a loveable, helpful lady who gives off an air of slight kookiness. When I arrived she was in the middle of sorting out her jewelry collection at the counter, which was in her words, 'in a mess.' Just before I left, I noticed she had settled for arranging them in order of progressive 'bling-ness' - shiniest on the left.

Threadbare is a wee bit pricier than Armstrong's I think, but excellent for those shopaholics who love the thrill of scouring through a confusing morass of clothes for that perfect 'find.' Worth a look-see.

2. Joey D, Broughton Street


If Dr Frankenstein were in the fashion business, he'd have set up his laboratory in Joey D. This is a literally fashion factory - and indeed, there seems to be a workshop at the back where you can see staff getting down on their knees and hacking away at fabric.

Old clothes are deconstructed and given new life in Joey D's eclectic creations. A simple denim skirt is anything but 'simple' - rather it's a patische of different strips of coloured denim, and some leftover vintage scraps which are sewn together in Frankenstein fashion, to constitute a new skirt. There are also Joey D's men's shirts (one pictured above) which resemble something Two-Face from the Batman series would wear. I also stood for quite a while contemplating a Joey D bustier halter top, which went round the mannequin's neck with nothing more than a recycled leather belt strap.

If loud reanimated fashion is your thing, you should probably stop by Joey D. Not entirely my cup of tea, but I'd recommend it simply because it's so unusual and different - for me anyways.

3. McNaughtan's Bookshop, Haddington Place
(along Leith Walk)

A must-see in Edinburgh if you're into second-hand, antiquarian books. This is a quiet, dignified establishment, which is (random as this sounds) exceedingly well designed and presented. Love the continuous shelves which run all across the shop, and end up enclosing little private niche-like areas with chairs - perfect to sit down and browse through a nice, good book.

The amount of books is quite staggering, and they generally go at reasonable prices. I never thought I would open another Thomas Hardy book after one year of JC with the thoroughly revolting Clym Yeobright and Eustacia Vye. However I couldn't resist flipping through The Return of the Native in McNaughtan's. It was in excellent condition, and sheathed in its own book box. The novel was also illustrated with exquisite wood print engravings. And all that for 10 pounds.

Also spied plenty of art history books, the complete 48-volume set of Walter Scott's Waverley novels (at 225pounds), and 19th-century editions of Jean Froissart's Chronicles. Book lovers might go a little crazy in here.