Lost and Found in the New Town: An Afternoon in Pictures

Decided to take a walk on Monday afternoon around the New Town in Edinburgh. I didn't have any destination, but I thought I would try and pass the famed George Street. Well, famed for different reasons. It's named after an English monarch for one. It was also designed as the city's main thoroughfare till Princes Street claimed that position. But for most of my schoolmates, George Street is simply known for the posh clubs along the stretch.

And so it was at George Street that I began my rather modest walk in the heart of New Town.

The street itself is nothing exceptional, save for the monument to James Clerk Maxwell, a Scottish physicist. Maxwell presides at the head of George's Street, and I've since learnt that this monument was only unveiled in November last year.

An interesting fact about Edinburgh is that you can't walk 50 steps without bumping into a statue of one of the city's many illustrous sons (sadly, haven't seen any daughters yet). A local mentioned this once, which I think is fairly true: you don't see relatively many statues commemorating great generals, founding fathers or political figures - ie: those in the big, grand equestrian mould! There are however, a prolific number of intellectual and cultural figures immortalized including Sir Walter Scott, John Knox, David Hume and Adam Smith. Make of this what you will.

Incidentally, if you look carefully at Maxwell's feet, you'll see his dog Toby as well! Apparently Maxwell was famed for talking to Toby about his scientific theories.



Ah. Whynot. An apt name for a place where the beautiful people go to drink, make merry and toss restraint out of the window. Why not indeed? One of the clubs I keep hearing about but have yet to check out.



Walking further, I entered St Andrews Square Garden and encountered this magnificent column. It is truly quite a sight, if only because of its immense height which makes it visible all the way from the head of George Street. It's a tribute to Henry Dundas, the first Viscount Melville who died some 200 years back. Check out the inscription at the base of the column.



The name might make you do a double-take. Yes, Robert Stevenson was the grandfather of the other more famous individual who shared his name - Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde fame!



Hung around at the Gardens for a while, snapping photos and people-watching. And then I was off to ...nowhere in particular. Along my journey, I transited at:



The nicely-paved Multrees Walks which is a boulevard of fashion. It has a quiet, genteel air about it unlike the animated buzz along Princes Street. Multrees is cool, trendy, and luxuriating in boutique outlets, counting Calvin Klein and Louis Vuitton as permanent residents.



Don't be fooled by its non-descript and somewhat underwhelming appearance. The Stand, on York Street, is one of Scotland's premier stand-up comedy clubs. Have been meaning to go for ages. With tickets starting as low as 2 pounds ('Red Raw' beginners' nights), why not?


Whilst looking for Queen's Street, I accidently chanced upon this narrow sideroad which opened up into a small but charming little square, known as Findlay Court. It was sandwiched between two buildings, one of which I assumed to be a red-bricked church.

It was only after I exited the courtyard that I realized the 'church' was in fact the Scottish National Portrait Gallery! It has a really venerable and intricate facade, complete with gothic arches and fancy niches filled with sculptures. The inner foyer is just as lovely, affirming the resemblance to a lavish cathedral. The balustrades are adorned with this amazing fresco-like artwork, which depicts some kind of procession. The second-floor walls have painted murals on them, while the stairways contain lovely arched, stained-glass windows. The pictures below do no justice to the gallery at all!




Do you spy the unmistakeable likeness of Queen Victoria in the stained glass?

Gorgeous. Something else I love about the gallery is its colours - everything from the striking red sandstone facade, to the unusual but lovely pairing of warm, pinkish-rose walls and green (bordering on teal) carpeted floors. And the portrait collection itself is really quite fascinating. I never thought portraiture could be all that interesting, but I think I have changed my mind especially after browsing the more contemporary works on the 2nd floor. The My favourite work was titled Three Oncologists:

Strange, surreal. It's almost hypnotic. I love the play on light in this picture, and how it makes the figures look almost spectral. Do go visit the gallery if you can, but before April 2009. The gallery will be shut from then till 2011 as it undergoes renovation...though why they want to refurbish such an amazing building I do not know. Sigh.

And so that's how I accidently found myself on Queen Street, within the plush interior of one of the prettiest galleries I've ever encountered. Certainly a visit which was well worth the walk, even though I hadn't intended to stumble across it. But that lends the experience a spontaneous beauty itself I suppose.

The gallery marked a fitting endpoint to my rather long, rambly walk and now (since I'm tired), a close to this equally long, rambly post. Thanks for walking with me :)