We are AWARE...even when abroad

Doing a little to show my support for AWARE - a Singaporean NGO which has done admirable advocacy work for women in Singapore since 1984.

Sadly, this organization has been fissured by a controversial change in leadership earlier this year. The new leaders of AWARE have thrust a single issue into the limelight, which they claim is evidence of the old AWARE's declining vision and focus - namely, the organization's supposed 'homosexual' agenda. The new leadership states that they have come to bring AWARE 'back' to its original aims and focus - that is, everyday women's issues. Although how they got the idea that lesbians do not factor in 'women's' issues especially in this day and age is puzzling.

This has become a huge point of contention and provoked knee-jerk reactions from certain sections of society. Whilst it has understandably raised concerns, I think it is unfortunate that one issue should negate and overshadow AWARE's extensive track record over the past 25 years, which you can view here http://www.we-are-aware.sg/achievements

If you are not comfortable with AWARE's liberal and open stance toward homosexuality and sexual education, that is fine. However, surely that cannot be the only criteria by which you judge this institution which has done so much more over the last quarter of a century to improve the lives of women. No organization is perfect, but I admire the open spirit which has guided AWARE, and which has given it the flexibility to evolve over the years and accommodate the new challenges that women in Singapore face.

And surely AWARE's stance toward alternative sexualities cannot be the only reason to endorse a new set of women who, however well-meaning, have claimed leadership over an organization whose ethos they do not even subscribe to (from what I see) - or selectively subscribe to only when it fits their personal religious convictions first and foremost. I should stress that I don't believe in interrogating someone's personal religious beliefs, unless they start to exert an undue influence over the management of a secular, liberal and non-discriminatory organization.

If you're an overseas Singaporean like me and wish to show your support for the old AWARE, you can pop by here to view and sign their online petition: http://www.gopetition.com/online/27163.html

Incidentally, the petition was started by a veteran member of AWARE who is also currently residing overseas! It's great that we can still have a say and take a stand even when away from home.

And for all those ladies back home. If you support the old AWARE and what it stands for, do sign up and go vote at the EGM this Saturday!!! I really wish I could've been there, but alas...here I am.

If you wish to find out more about the AWARE saga, I've really enjoyed viewing the press conferences which both the new and old leadership have given in the last week. See http://www.channelnewsasia.com/aware/videoarchives.htm for the video archives!

Updates from my room

Am recovering from a rather tiring trip to Spain, and a painful dental procedure which I went for yesterday to clean out the gum area around an infected wisdom tooth. The post-procedure pain has largely ebbed thankfully, although there is still slight discomfort in the tooth area, and swelling around my jaw area. Hopefully that will subside in the days to come.

I am in the midst of completing a take-home essay examination for my Scottish Literature module. It is going well, albeit rather slowly, because my room (and laptop) provides ample sources of distraction - blogging happens to be one of them. At the moment, I am hooked on following the AWARE saga in Singapore - it feels so good to be connected to going-ons back home via the internet!

For more information about the saga, this has been the website I visit most regularly for updates: http://www.we-are-aware.sg Check it out if you have time. The case itself is interesting in its own right, but beyond that, it also provides intriguing insight into the state of contemporary civil society in Singapore. I am excited to see the amount of lively debate and intelligent comments the case has brought about - well, not to say that there haven't been un-intelligent responses but those are generally inevitable.

I will be following the press releases after May 2 (slated date of the Extraordinary General meeting) with much enthusiasm! My only regret is that I cannot be in Singapore to catch the proceedings in person - there is, however, an online petition which we can sign to show moral support for the old AWARE. It really is extraordinary how overseas Singaporeans can continue to follow and participate in happenings back home nowadays.

Other than that, I am glad to finally settle back down in my room. Not to say that Spain wasn't fun (although we did have awful room-mates in the hostel), but it is comforting to be back in familiar surroundings. It doesn't hurt also to be back in a place where the people speak English - Huishan, you were so right when you spoke about linguistic capital when travelling. Simply understanding and being understood can make such a big difference to your confidence levels, especially in places where the people aren't exactly famed for their patience, manners or tolerance toward foreigners (I'm speaking generally here).

Well back to work then. More updates soon!

A London Diary

I couldn't do it for France and forget all about London. So here it is! The highs and the lows of London:

Five Best Experiences in London

1. Shopping with Mum

Retail therapy is a great opportunity for mother-daughter bonding. I enjoyed walking around the major shopping belts with my mum, and just getting a glimpse of daily life on the busy arteries of London's major streets.


We picked up most of our buys along Oxford Street, however I really liked wandering around these two places in particular: Neal's Yard (above) and Camden Lock. The former is a little square tucked away from the main road. The place is a violent riot of colours when you enter, with young Londoners milling about and sitting on the public benches. It's a pleasure to walk around this rather bohemian area. Grab a bite while you're at it - there is a fun selection of cafes within the yard serving a mixture of cuisines.

I think the Camden Town area is a must for anyone with a remote interest in fashion and shopping. Camden Market (Buck Street) is similar to Bugis Village with its loud flashy signage and youthful fashion, but Camden Lock Market appealed to me more. It sits prettily near Regent's Canal (pictured above), and houses a wide assortment of merchandise encompassing prints, clothes, accessories, furniture, and of course, an international spread of street food. The canal is also lined with a host of trendy F&B outlets ranging from cavernous pubs to mod-looking Japanese restaurants. I imagine the place would be very vibrant in the evening.

2. Getting Cultured for the Price of Nothing


The cityscape of London is nowhere as picturesque as Paris or even some parts of Edinburgh. However, it is unparalleled in the sheer number of cultural institutions which are free and accessible to all. As Stephanie says, there's always something to do in London, and you can be entertained for close to nothing on a lazy weekend.

Free galleries and museums abound in London, including big-wigs like the British Museum (pictured above) and the Natural History Museum. A tip if you're racking your brains for souvenirs in London: forget the Union Jack fridge magnets and 'I LOVE LONDON' tee-shirts - I apologize if this sounds snobbish, but my philosophy is that apart from edibles, cheap souvenirs always wind up as tacky dust-collectors or ill-fitting Pajamas. Save the earth's resources (and your own) and invest in good gifts which the receiver is more likely to appreciate. If you concur, I'd suggest heading straight for the museum giftshops/bookstores. The merchandise I've seen is excellent, and usually encompasses more than in-house publications. The Natural History Museum in particular is great if you're shopping for kids - all sorts of knick-knacks, which are not only delightful but educational. You can't argue with that! I also liked the photography books which the Natural History giftstore had - excellent quality photographs of wildlife in artsy, coffee table-ish books. Of course, these gifts are admittedly a little pricey - not for those relatives you secretly don't like too much!

But giftstores aside, my favourite museum was the Victoria and Albert (V&A) pictured below. It is quite a gem, and I really enjoyed sampling their vast and eclectic collection which included rooms dedicated to fashion, textiles and theatre amongst other things. There was even a special exhibition on Hats going on when I visited, complete with museum staff walking around in the most outlandish and hilarious hats ever! Spent a fun and engaging time there. And yes, the giftstore is heaven-on-earth.


3. Tea for Two


I like supermarket shopping with my boyfriend, and I think he would've gone wild in Harrods. The selection is impeccable, ranging from antique furniture to quality groceries. The food halls in particular are gorgeously decorated, and the teas and chocolates are popular gift items.

But while you're in one of these ultra posh departmental stores, rest your shopping-weary legs in one of their ubiquitous tea-rooms and give yourself a treat. Apart from their fragrant brews, don't miss the famous macaroons at Laduree Cafe in Harrods. The Fountain restaurant in Fortnum and Mason also serves up an excellent plate of scones complete with jam and clotted cream (pictured below). For myself, I ordered the Sticky Date Toffee pudding which was excellent, although I think Marmalade Pantry's version is actually as good.

4. Picnicing in Hyde Park

Strictly a good-weather activity. When I returned to London after my sojourn in France, Stephanie and I spontaneously decided to have a picnic in Hyde Park! The park itself is lovely, especially when the sun's out. Also, there are usually a variety of interesting characters who will keep you occupied; these include inquisitive squirrels who will eat out of your hand, and the occassional break-dancing troupe which decides to debut their moves on the green - yes, we experienced both when picnicing there. What did I tell you about free entertainment in London?

5. Eating Out in London


This gets a mention simply because it was such a welcome change from 3 months of dining hall food. English food is nothing to shout about, and I would say that it is cetainly overwhelmed by the sheer diversity of international cuisines all jostling for your attention in London. The choice is really quite staggering. Chinese, Indian and Italian food are obvious finds, but there's also Malaysian, Eastern European and Korean food to suit even the most selective of tastebuds. Of course whether or not the food meets up to your expectations is a different matter, but the variety itself is a good and promising start! Thanks to Mum, Dad, Suresh and Stephanie for treating my tastebuds to Dimsum, U-don, Kimchi soup, Chinese Roast duck, Portuguese-style chicken, Tea cakes and Thali amongst other things! And of course, who could forget that excellent grilled sea bass in the Italian restaurant - thanks for letting me pinch off your plate daddy!

Not-too-good Experiences in London

1. Tower of London

Expensive and not all that exciting for me. However, redeemed by the Yeoman Warden tours which are exceedingly entertaining.

2. The Metro

Generally quite efficient when its working, however we experienced many line closures when there, especially over the weekend. Always set off earlier for your destination lest you wind up stranded in a station where service has been interrupted or delayed suddenly.

3. Football Fans

Loud, noisy, boorish and generally drunk. They sing annoying songs as well. Avoid them at all costs.

4. The Crush of People

Found in all Tube stations at peak hour, and on Sundays along Oxford Street. The crowds are massive, pushy and jostling. London is definitely a city that lives on the fast (and hectic) lane, and they aren't very tolerant of tourists who mill around aimlessly on the streets obstructing pedestrian flow. Avoid standing on the wrong side of escalators lest you receive rude glances from impatient office workers rushing to work - you'll be reminded in no uncertain terms to keep to the right.

Remembering France

In a nutshell:

Five Best Experiences in France

1. Walking along the Seine



One of the most surprising discoveries I made in Paris: Life seems to move as slowly as the sinuous Seine. After coming from London which is hectic to put it very mildly, I expected Parisians to live life equally fast and furious.


The city-scape is clearly one that befits a modern metropolis, yet the pace of life (as I experienced it) was pleasantly mellow. Walking along the banks of the river Seine captures this perfectly: the boulevards are wide, breezy and lined with trees; elderly couples stroll casually in front of you, arms linked like bashful school children; artists peddle their wares by the river-side unobtrusively; and Parisiens sip coffee from the shaded recesses of roadside cafes simply watching the world go by.


We had just 3 days in Paris which is clearly not enough to clearly see everything. Before coming I had steeled myself for a rushed whistle-stop tour of the city's main sights - but Paris has the effect of enveloping you with its charm, causing you to slow down and literally, smell the roses. And that we did. Quite a lot, with red wine and cheese in hand. Is this the famed French joie de vivre kicking in? Paris ended up one of the most relaxing and enjoyable trips ever.

2. Visiting the Eiffel Tower at Night

The Eiffel Tower is not over-rated in my book - though it is undeniably a converging point for trigger-happy tourists and shady looking salespeople jingling Eiffel Tower keychains in your face. We didn't manage to go up the tower, but no matter - it is simply gorgeous to behold from any angle at night when it's lit up. Watch out for the hourly light show when the tower literally sparkles for five minutes. The best part about it is the split second you experience when everyone's too stunned to take any pictures. Then you hear a collective sigh of delight rising from the snaking queue waiting to take the elevator up the tower. It's really quite amazing.

Then a second later all the cameras are raised again, in a frenzy of flashes. But hey, the Tower's still the brightest star of them all.

3. Parcs et jardins

Parks and gardens are sacred grounds of pilgrimage for weary travellers. Spring is an excellent time to visit any of them as the flowers are in full bloom, and the weather is generally perfect for afternoon picnics on the grass. My favourite gardens are the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris, and the Cimiez Monastery Park in Nice. The latter in particular (pictured above), not only has beautifully tended rose-beds, but it also commands sweeping views of Nice - one of the best I dare say.

4. Overnight train ride to Nice

After hearing nightmarish stories of sleeper berths in trains having nothing more than 'mattressed planks,' I was understandably apprehensive about sleeping in a couchette during our 10 hour train journey from Paris to Nice. However, the couchettes proved extremely comfortable and were thoughtfully supplied with individual blankets, eyemasks, ear plugs, mineral water and breath-mints.

Apart from the comfortable bed however, the best part of the journey was waking up early (around 6.30am) and watching the sun rise over the French provencal landscape, and glittering over the Rivera coastline. You share this experience with other bleary-eyed and hushed travellers, lined up in the narrow corridor of the train. Quite remarkable.

5. Nice

Nice is beautiful! It is blessed with more charisma than it's stately counterpart, Paris, and is also (surprisingly) far less touristy. Don't get me wrong - there are tons of tourists milling about the beaches, but evidence of locals pandering to the tourist dollar are generally minimal. Nice is also much more affordable than Paris, and that might explain why the locals also seem friendlier. However like Paris (or perhaps, even more so), the pace of life is exceedingly slow and relaxed. An excellent place for serious relaxation.

Nice is understandably famous for its beach and coastline - it is the capital of the Rivera after all. I won't dispute that too much - the Baie des Angeles is a must-see. Don't be put off by the high noon-time sun; that's the absolute best time in my opinion, to stroll down the famed Promenades des Anglais to see the beach in full swing and in full colour. Morning and evening strolls by the beach work fine too, but you won't get the full flavour of the place - the rollerbladers have retired their skates, the chattering local boys who cheekily flirt with you in broken Mandarin have disappeared, the bronzed sun-bathers have rolled up their beach mats, and the circus-like buzz along the promenade which swirls merrily around you has faded along with the evening sun.

But apart from the Promenade, Vieux Nice is also another must-see. The old quarter of the city, it is filled with little, narrow streets and brightly painted buildings which are festooned with laundry strung on sagging clothes lines. Unlike the Baie des Angeles, I'd recommend the opposite for Vieux Nice: of course, you must go for the colourful flower market on Cours Saleya, and sample Nicois cuisine in the more bustling Rue Saint Francois de Paul; however, I think the most charming parts of Vieux Nice lie in the quiet backroads which are mainly residential areas free of shops peddling bikinis. These are great places to get lost in.

Check out some of the churches in Vieux Nice as well. The church at the end of Rue de Jesus has a stunning baroque interior which will enthrall you for quite a while. And this is coming from someone who is close to exhausting her appetite for churches in Europe.

Worst Experiences in France

Nothing's perfect though my holiday in France came pretty darn close. Here are some little things which prevented me from coining this an absolute 5-star holiday.

1. Parisiens

It's not entirely true that the French refuse to speak English - most will know some basic words/phrases which helps communication quite a bit. But then most stereotypes have some basis in fact. The Parisiens I encountered were not the warmest of people, especially the service staff. They can come across as rather aloof and stand-offish. Bad and unclear French can be met with impatient eye-rolls. Service with a smile is not exactly a popular philosophy here.

On the bright side, I notice that the standards of English in Nice were much better. But more importantly, the locals were also far friendlier down in the South. A nice elderly gentleman struck up a conversation with me in Nice and was patient enough to listen as I tried to form sentences in my extremely poor French!

2. Crowd management at the Lourve

Poor. Over an hour's waiting time which encompassed the queue for entry into the Lourve lobby and another separate queue for admission tickets within the lobby itself manned by a grand total of one frazzled looking lady. I should add that I don't mind waiting for popular attractions, but I have seen much more efficient crowd management where you actually feel like you're moving at a regular and consistent speed even though there are thousands of people in front of you.

Signage and information brochures were ambiguous, leading us to think that admission prices would be free for under-26s on certain evenings, when this actually only applied to EU citizens.

Flash photography is rampant even though this is technically prohibited and should be since it is destructive for the paintings. Understandably, the size of the Lourve makes this hard to police but I have to say that in the Vatican museum which is positively sprawling, even the part-time guides will tell you off if they see you snapping away with your flash on though it's not really their business. The Sistine chapel itself has security guards who literally shout at you from their podium to keep quiet and stop taking pictures.

Not so with the Mona Lisa. Everyone takes photos with their flash on. There wasn't even a custodian in the room to manage or discipline the crowd. What is up with that?

3. Notre-Dame

Nice cathedral - nicer on the outside. The inside is a literal market-place. I hated it. While I am guilty of taking (non-flash) pictures inside cathedrals sometimes, I think basic decorum should be observed when a service or mass is in progress - which it was when we entered Notre-Dame. That means, give your camera a break or at the very least turn off the flash so it won't be so distracting. That sadly didn't happen inside the Church which is clearly, massively popular with trigger-happy tourists. If I remember correctly, even the gift shop's merchandise encroached quite a far bit into the worship space, which is seriously tacky.

There needs to be more stern policing done. Sacre-Coeur was a much better experience - large signs and guards at the entrance remind you to not take photos, and to observe silence when walking around the church. A dress code is also enforced at Sacre-Coeur which is fair.

4. Versailles

25 Euros for a day passport into the Gardens, Chateau and Marie Antoinette's apartments. But our friends showed their student IDs and got in for free even though they weren't EU citizens. The unfairness of it all!

But in any case, I think I might have reached my saturation point as far as castles and palaces are concerned. Or perhaps I just wasn't very impressed by Versailles itself. The so-called Fountain Musical performance in the Versailles gardens was over-rated. I don't think you should label something a 'performance' or a 'show' unless it has some discernable entertainment value. Turning on the water simultaneously in all the fountains is not exactly entertaining after the first 2 minutes. I expected at the very least, jets of water, leaping in sync with the Baroque music for the 8 euro admission fee into the gardens itself. No such luck.

France in Quick Retrospect

I'm currently in Stephanie's apartment in London, after my 7 day break in France. The itinery encompassed 3 days in Paris, and 3 days down South in Nice. A rather modest schedule but this turned out to be one of the best holidays I've ever had and I'm really glad I went. More detailed post coming soon - hopefully when I get back to Edinburgh.

But in the meantime, my heart pines for France and (strangely enough) pain au chocolat!

Quick Quips: Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon

Took a short guided day trip to Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon on Tuesday. As with all guided tours, it was unfortunately very rushed, very touch-and-go and left at best, rather fleeting memories. So I suppose I ought to try and record down some brief impressions before they fade!

1. Oxford

Oxford is really quite a pretty city. If I have the opportunity, I would love to come back here and wander around myself.

We toured Christ Church chapel, which was where several scenes from Harry Potter were filmed. The Great Hall was pretty cool, but positively swamped with camera-armed tourists. Squeezing past them was not very fun at all. The walk around the campus itself was far more pleasant; the architecture is really quite pleasing to the eye. I liked the library (pictured above) quite a bit!



Apart from the university, the city itself is also lovely in its own right, save for the giant tour buses which trawl the streets. But hey, you can't have everything can you?

2. Stratford-upon-Avon

More famously known as the birthplace and residence of the Bard. Shakespeare references abound in this little town, including the 'As you like it' cafe, and the 'Iago' jewelry shop. Otherwise, the town is somewhat dull. However I must say that the main street which houses Shakespeare's house has been quite beautifully refurbished with trendy shops and bistros housed within quaint, white-washed Tudor facades. No doubt deliberately made picture-perfect for the postcards!


Even prettier however, was Anne Hathaway's cottage - birthplace of Shakespeare's wife! The house is well-restored and is simply gorgeous to behold, especially the gardens! I'd upload a picture but I'm lazy and blogger is lagging, so I'll do it another time! :P

Another interesting feature about Stratford-upon-Avon were the spontaneous performances of Shakespeare's plays (excerpts) which occured within the birthplace compound and spilt out onto the streets. Actresses togged in period garb re-enacted scenes from A Midsummer Night's Dream as tourists munching on baguettes watched on from the 'Food of Love' cafe. It's really a kind of heaven (if somewhat tacky) for die-hard Shakespeare enthusiasts.

Have to go off now. See you sometime soon world!

Brief Thoughts from London

London is sprawling, noisy and - by the look of my clothes - rather polluted. Nevertheless I can see why it's often heralded the Metropolis of the world. It's been a fun 9 days here with my family and I've loved it! Will be leaving tomorrow for France. A little sad, but not quite - will be back again on the 16th with Stephanie. Girl, if you're reading this, you gotta show me a good time ;)

The Highlands in Colour

After rummaging through my luggage, it turns out that I did bring my memory card reader!

So in no particular order, some photographic highlights from my second Highlands trip:

1. Hamish, the Highland Cow: My first hairy cow upclose and personal! He's so swishy looking.

2. The Lowlands: I think this was taken somewhere around Stirling. The lowland landscape is gently undulating and full of rolling green hills. Picture perfect!

3. The Highlands: Past the Highland faultline and we're in a completely different country altogether.

The highlands are wild, untamed and dramatic. Breath-taking to behold even from inside an airconditioned coach.

But nothing's ever just 'pretty' in the highlands. It's deadly. Ben Nevis is just 1/8 the size of Mount Everest, but has claimed more lives.

I'm no mountaineer but I can say that stepping out of the coach itself can already kill the unsuspecting - it's Spring but the winds are still as crazy as ever! They can literally blow you off a cliff if you're not careful.

4. The Five Sisters: These 5 mountain peaks formed one of the most picturesque moments of our trip.

5. Eilean Donan Castle: Highlander was filmed here! It's a small castle but it looked stunning against the sunset.

6. Isle of Skye, Lealt Falls: I rest my case, Skye is looking fine. Took a familiar route, however made a detour to Lealt Falls which I hadn't been to the last time. Joined a group of English geologists and admired this great crashing waterfall.



7. The White Heather: Charming B&B in Kyleakin which we put up in for the night. Lovely view from our room!



8. Creelers Seafood Restaurant, Broadford, Isle of Skye: I had the most amazing scallops in this joint. Quiet, unassuming family-run business which will make your tastebuds go wild.
9. The Culloden Battlefield: Did I mention our guide was a Scot and hates the English with a passion? It's a no-brainer therefore that we ended up here.

The Culloden Battle was the beginning of the end of Highland culture. This is the field where the highland clans were slaughtered by the British army. There is an excellent museum on-site which contributes overall to an extremely poignant experience. Descendents of the ill-fated Highlanders still come here to mourn.

10. The Hermitage: Our final stop just before heading back to Edinburgh, and in many ways, the icing on the cake. The little hut-like structure on the left was a former opium-den. It's been converted into a gorgeous viewing gallery. Glass doors open up, offering a fantastic view of the waterfall below.

11. The Waterfall: Voila voila.