Of Wontons and Brownies

4 months of repetitive dining hall food has put me on a rampage across Edinburgh to find good grub, savoury snacks and delectable desserts at student-friendly prices. Here are a couple more comments on eats around the city.

1. The Lee On, 3 - 5 Bruntsfield Place

After visiting Chop Chop I knew I had to come here if only to compare the Chinese cuisine! At the same time, I also wanted to test an online review I'd come across before which bemoaned the sorry state of East Asian cuisine in Edinburgh.

The Lee On has apparently been serving Cantonese-style dishes for 40 years now! That's a mark of amazing longevity, and I had the opportunity to check this place out on Tuesday.

The shopfront is a distinctive red, with a series of port-holes revealing Chinese-style lanterns hanging from the ceiling inside. An English-language menu displayed on the window also serves to entice hungry travellers inside.

Surprisingly, the main dining area in the restaurant is situated all the way down in the basement. It's a little subterranean network of rooms, all of which are well lit and neatly furnished with (what else?) cheerful red table cloths. I dined in a room which included two other French men sipping red wine, and a group of Scottish regulars discussing Britain's Got Talent over vegetable spring roll starters.

After being handed a menu written in Chinese, I requested to see the English one which had been displayed on the storefront - I already had my eye on a particular dish, and wasn't sure what it would be called in Mandarin. However after some hesitation, the Chinese waitress admitted that the two menus are actually different - apparently the Chinese menu contains dishes aimed at a specifically Chinese clientale. Some of these options are not available on the English menu. This was quite interesting and I told her I would consult both menus before deciding!

Strangely enough however, the dishes on the Chinese menu appeared the pricier of the two. I had expected the reverse to be true, but oh well.

In the end, I submitted to my craving for comfort food and ordered a wonton noodle soup off the Chinese menu. The noodle dishes on the English menu appeared limited, and were mostly of the fried 'chow mein' variety - didn't see any soupy options sadly.


First off this is some pricey noodle dish - the stated price in the menu was about 8pounds if I remember correctly. You can get the same dish for a fraction of that in Singapore - though admittedly not in a restaurant setting. However that said, these wonton noodles were good - about as close as you can get to the ones back home. Nice springy noodles with a good 'bite,' fresh leafy vegetables (yum! The right kind as well.) and best of all, delectable won tons with silky smooth skins. And to Lee On's credit, there were a lot of wontons - I counted at least eight of those pork, chive and mushroom dumplings. It's nice to see a restaurant that doesn't sting on the good stuff!

Other little things made my experience at Lee On a pretty good one: firstly, I was immediately handed a huge pot of Chinese tea the minute I sat down. This turned out to be complimentary, which I felt was pretty generous seeing how I was a solo diner. Strangely enough, I did not notice any pots on the neighbouring tables - hmm.

Secondly, got a pleasant surprise when I received the hand-written bill. For some reason they had knocked off a whole 1.50pound from the meal. I'm not sure why. In any case, I wasn't complaining at all. Perhaps they liked me hehehe.

I think it helps to converse with the predominantly Chinese staff in Mandarin - even inexpertly, like myself. I have a feeling it helps break down barriers and open some doors, if you know what I mean.

One downside about dining in Lee On - as mentioned earlier, most of the seating area is located in the basement. Throughout my meal, I heard thundering footsteps on the wooden staircase as waitresses zipped back and forth, welcoming new guests and showing them down to the tables. A little distracting - definitely not the right place for a quiet date. But otherwise, was pleased overall with The Lee On. The noodles at least have gotten my stamp of approval!

2. Back yet Again! Brownies at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe

The chocolate craving finally hit as I knew it would someday. So it was off to the Fruitmarket Gallery to sample their brownies this afternoon!

It's not the best brownie I've had, but it is still good. The brownie has a thick, slightly crunchy crust ontop, and the rest of it has a chewy, almost fudgy texture. It's my personal preference for brownies to be more moist, however I really enjoyed this one all the same! Nevertheless I think it's hard to top the Fruitmarket cafe's rhubarb tart - it ranks as one of the best sweet treats I've had in a long while!

In any case, after three good experiences here this month, two of which pertained to their lip-smacking desserts, I have nothing but praise for the Fruitmarket gallery. Come here to view the art, browse the bookshop, or just head straight to the cafe for cakes or lunch - their meals look great as well. I'm tempted by the crayfish and avocado salad, and the Seafood platter! Mmmm. So much good food, so little time.

Pre-departure Mundanities: Packing

With just 4 days left in Edinburgh, I decided I ought to start on some packing today. Have gotten along pretty well - have packed about half my clothes (the clean ones). The other half will go through laundry before making their way into my suitcase.

In the meantime have also accumulated a massive amount of used paper which I shall chuck in the recycle bin tomorrow. I don't have a habit of keeping old brochures and lecture notes haha.

Am experiencing a distinct sense of deja vu as I pack. It wasn't too long ago that I was folding the same clothes and placing them in my suitcase back in Singapore.

A mild sense of poignancy as I look through some of my earlier "pre-departure" blog entries in January.

This too, is another pre-departure note I suppose. Only now, I'm preparing to go back home :)

Trip down Morningside: Visiting the Hermitage of Braid and Blackford Hill

Was exceedingly proud of myself today for several reasons:

1. Without the aid of a map, I found my way to Morningside - a fairly posh neighbourhood in Edinburgh which lies outside the boundaries of my city map. Furthermore, I also managed to get directions to the Hermitage of Braid, which lies even further south!

It's in times like these when I really appreciate Edinburghers. They are (with little exception) friendly to the fault, and are ever willing to help strangers on the street. Thanks to the man on Leven street who kindly asked if I needed directions (I must've looked quite lost), and to the lady at the bus stop who actually went onboard a bus to ask the driver what the quickest way to the Hermitage was! Bless her.

Also had a good experience when I digressed and found myself in Christ Church; the friendly warden informed me that the church was closed but turned on the lights in the main nave, so I could see the altar better - and it was indeed, quite a pretty church. I think he would've even let me have had a go at the pipe organ, only I vigorously assured him that I couldn't play a tune to save my life.

2. Managed to successfully reach the summit of Blackford Hill, which is located within the Hermitage itself. It was not a particularly hard climb, however I'm pleased that I reached the top anyway and all on my own two feet!

The summit of Blackford Hill...sadly, that figure off in the distance isn't me (yet. Haha)


Blackford hill is really great - the top of the hill is quite a flat, grassy plateau, save for a large-ish rocky outcrop from which you can get excellent views of Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Craigs and the general city scape. In addition to that, you can enjoy sweet views of the Hermitage itself, which is I think, the most awesome part of the deal because it's simply beautiful. Finally, the Craigmillar Park golf course is also right next to the Hermitage, and you can see the sprawling expanse of the course from the top of Blackford Hill as well.


Arthur's Seat...taken just before I ascended the summit.


View from the summit of Blackford Hill

Really stupendous. You could stay for hours at the summit taking everything in. Once you get bored, there are still plenty of wide open grassy spaces at the top of the hill where you can lounge or entertain yourself. I saw large, extended families walking their dogs at the top of the hill, before settling down for a serious game of football. I imagine you could also pull up a bit of grass and have a picnic with friends.

Best part about Blackford hill is that it's generally quiet and peaceful - not too many people come up here, and those that do are mainly young families or dog-walkers on a placid, leisurely stroll. I didn't see the camera-clickers (apart from myself haha), or scary fitness freaks who crawl the sides of Arthur's Seat.

Blackford hill is highly recommended. The easiest way to ascend it is via the side where the Royal Observatory is situated. There are some wooden, rickety steps which should help you up the first stretch. After that, it's generally quite a gentle walk up - enjoy!

3. Finding and exploring the Hermitage, period. Thanks once again to the guidebook I picked up at the Red Door gallery - it's such a petite read, but it's utterly invaluable! I would have never known about the Hermitage otherwise.


Apart from Blackford Hill, the Hermitage boasts a lovely walking trail through the woods. The pathway hugs the river closely, and if you're lucky, you'll spy dogs happily jumping into the (shallow) water, enthusiastically investigating the rocks on the river bed. On Blackford Hill itself, keep your eyes peeled for various colourful birds and even the occassional elusive brown hare! Furthermore, I thought I spied several white ponies off in the distance...but I can't be sure. You be the judge:

So in all, another great nature and walking spot discovered this week. Most pleased with myself :)

By the Sea: Newhaven Quay and Portobello Beach

We had gorgeous weather yesterday: it was bright if a little cloudy in the morning, but by mid-day the sun had emerged, blazing hot. I've been really pleased with the weather in the past couple of days, and yesterday was really tops. With golden rays of sun streaming in merrily through my otherwise dreary room, I decided I absolutely had to hit the beach.

When I first arrived in early January, 'beach' and 'Scotland' seemed polar opposites and never the twain shall meet. However I have found out that Scotland has its fair share of lovely beaches - my Scottish Lit teacher insists vigorously that the sands of Morar are pure white and absolutely stunning. Sadly, a trip back to the Highlands seems doubtful, so I had to be content with beaches nearer to home...hence, after some quick googling, I decided I would be off to the east of Edinburgh, to Portobello Beach!

1. But not before a small diversion...to Newhaven Quay

One thing I'd forgotten about public buses is that they tend to come less frequently on Sundays compared to weekdays. So sadly, I arrived at the bus-stop only to realize that the next bus to Portobello would come in a very tedious-sounding 40 minutes! In the end, I opted for an earlier bus to Newhaven, (small village next to Leith) thinking I would make my way down to Portobello from there later in the day.

The bus dropped me off somewhere near Newhaven Quay - it was just a short walk up the street. The quay is quite small, with a few good, raised steps and benches facing it. I think it's a nice place to have a sandwich or to sip a coffee whilst gazing at the boats which rock lazily in the water.

I've learnt that Newhaven used to see better days as a bustling port and shipbuilding centre. However it's pretty quiet these days, as I observed when I went - or perhaps that's just Newhaven on a Sunday afternoon?

In any case, I really liked the lighthouse which stands at the edge of the quay - it was built in 1869, and has since fallen into disrepair. I don't think the lighthouse is in use now, but it still remains - evocative of better days in this maritime village perhaps? In any case, a pretty and somewhat romantic feature to contemplate.

Took a stroll along the promenade which is connected to the Quay area. Very nice walk, as long as you don't mind getting a bit wind-swept. It was a clear day so I could see all the way across the Firth of Forth. I think I could even make out the outlines of mountains far off in the distance!

At the same time, it was also somewhat surreal to be flanked on either side by completely different-looking structures - tiny, homely villages across the Firth of Forth toward the left, and modern waterfront condominiums on my immediate right. The latter in particular, would not look out of place at all in Singapore!


Finally made my way to Ocean Terminal shopping centre at Leith. Took a short break before wandering off to find a bus to Portobello...

2. Finally! Arriving at the Beach

Portobello gives out an entirely different vibe from Newhaven. Like the latter, it is also located on the coast of the Firth of Forth. However unlike Newhaven, Portobello gives the impression of a fashionable early 20th-century seaside resort - the kind of place the 'middle classes' would escape to over the weekend for a little bit of sun and sand. There are quaint looking signs along Portobello High Street which direct visitors to the Beach and other leisure facilities in the vicinity.


The beach itself is quite nice. Obviously the Firth of Forth does not have the incomparable beauty of the sparkling Riveria, or its glitzy waterfront glamour. However, I was very impressed by the cleanliness of Portobello despite the number of families with young children running around...some people were even having a barbeque on the beach! Nevertheless, didn't encounter any noticeable debris or rubbish while walking around on the sand - truly remarkable.

And that's one thing Portobello has which the fancy plages in Nice don't - bountiful amounts of lovely, soft tan-coloured sand. Nice's beaches are rocky and generally not very nice to walk or lie on, especially when the pebbles are heated up by the noon-time sun (ouch!) Portobello however, is perfect for a leisurely seaside stroll. You can kick of your shoes and walk about freely, feeling the sand run through your toes...as mentioned earlier, the beach is quite clean so little worries that you'll step on a broken beer bottle or the like.

There are also plenty of benches and rocky ledges along the promenade where you can sit down with an ice-cream or takeaway fish 'n chips (there are eateries along the beach), and just soak in the sun. Really enjoyed just sitting by the beach, reading my book and listening to the sound of the incoming tide. Ah, bliss!

Perfect place to rest, relax and recharge yourself. The beach is popular with families but it's not excessively crowded (well, not yet perhaps). Take a walk down the promenade to find the quieter stretches along the beach. But crowded or not, I'm glad I finally found some sun, sand and surf in Scotland!

Weather Update

Okay, so the weather in Scotland has officially confounded me. Just last week I was moaning about how it would never get warm, but it looks like I'll have to eat my words yet again.

Temperatures in the past few days have climbed to around 16 to 17 degrees celsius. For the first time since I got here, I've been able to walk around in just a light cardigan and not get cold spasms! And for the first time two days ago, I began to crave ice cream.

It's just sad that the weather got so nice just when I'm about to leave :(

Thoughts on Cultural Generalizations

Attended a small party the other week, and left feeling just mildly disturbed. Shall not go into details, but suffice to say I was slightly unsettled by the cultural stereotypes some people I met held about Asia in general. I should qualify that these are all lovely and pleasant people, some of whom are my friends. The "stereotypes" in question were also not ones which were particularly offensive or insulting. However, they do reflect some degree of misinformation or ignorance which I had not expected.

At the same time, couldn't help but be amused by some remarks raised during the little party. These included questions about whether Chinese men are really short ("I hear that whenever they find someone in China who's really tall, they force them to join the basketball team immediately!"), and if Chinese people eat their meals on the floor.

To the first, I assured her that they are not as short as she thinks they are. She was really surprised when I said that 1.70-ish meters is quite average for Singaporean men, and it is not considered exceptionally tall. I also suggested that there might be regional differences in height and build within China itself, and in overseas Chinese communities.

To the second, a post-grad American student in Japanese linguistics noted that it is Japanese people who eat sitting on the floor. However whilst I realize that it is a tradition in Japan to eat sitting down on tatami mats, I was a little uneasy that the party in question (mostly European) might go away with the idea that Japanese people always eat sitting down. I've been to Japan on several occasions and from memory, the restaurants/cafes I visited all had tables, chairs, and Western cutlery depending on the food served.

I feel sometimes there is a tendency to highlight exotic, Orientalized (and frankly, somewhat dated) cultural differences, whilst ignoring the similarities which bind people today. Similarities tend to be taken as the exception, rather than a very real and current product of the increasing interconnectivity between metropolitan communities.

At the same time, I don't think that similarities should simply be explained away using terms like "westernization" or "western hegemony" (as was also the case that night). Such labels can be helpful but only to a certain extent - to me it feels that after a while, they just become simplistic shorthands for complex cultural processes.

Nevertheless no matter how strange I find questions like "do you eat sitting on the floor" etc, it is still interesting to see what kind of images the world has of Asia and Singapore. Furthermore it's worth reminding myself that these questions show a willingness to know more about another culture. They can consequently be good openings for dialogue and greater understanding. I can only hope that I will be able to convey my opinions lucidly and fairly as a representative of that culture, and that the other party is willing to listen with an open mind - sadly not always the case as I realized that night. But that's another story for another time.

Saturday's Food Picks

Edinburgh has been called Scotland's Larder, and in the past few weeks I'm beginning to see why. Here are some tasty treats I sampled today.

1. Returning to the Farmer's Market with Fel this afternoon, I got my hands on a Buffalo Burger. For 3 pounds you get a sizzling patty fresh off the grill. You also have a choice of sauces and relishes, to spice up the burger. It was good - much better than my ostrich burger the last time! Fel had a stoats porridge with belgium chocolate and hazelnut, which was also very nice and comforting.

The market was a lot busier this afternoon compared to last week, when I went in the morning - more people out of bed I imagine! A nice buzz in the air as we strolled through the various stalls. Along the way, we sampled some 'Tablets,' or home-made sweets which were quite delicious - I'm thinking of going back next week to buy some as presents for friends in Singapore.

2. Amazing Rhubarb Tart at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe! I have tried rhubarb pie before, but was never particularly a fan of it. This little gem however, has got me converted.


The tart comes with a small bowl of creme fraiche with ginger stems (pictured above). It's an optional accompaniment that costs just a pound more - however it sounded so unusual, that I just had to try it. And I'm quite glad I did...the crystallized blocks of ginger and creme fraiche actually go well together. Even better, it pairs very well with the rhubarb tart! Yumminess. Washed it down with a nice hot pot of Cranberry and Orange tea.

Have also heard that the Fruitmarket Gallery cafe serves the best brownies in Edinburgh. Shall definitely check it out if I suddenly get struck by a chocolate craving.