The Tartan Travelogue

A Little Belated...Back Home in Singapore

2009-06-26T10:50:00.001-07:00

Well I'm back home in Singapore! It's been almost a month since I returned to the balmy weather back home; and yes, it has been almost a month since I last blogged! It's such a cliche to say this, but time really flies.

So I thought I'd give a quick update about my life since you last heard from me. After all, I have nothing else to do while waiting for my hair to dry before I go to bed (hehe)

1. Volunteering at AWARE: You might recall that I was quite affected by the AWARE saga some time in May. I followed the controversy surrounding this local NGO while in Edinburgh through twitter, facebook and the We-are-AWARE site, to the point where it almost became an obsession. I was elated with the outcome of the leadership tussle within the organization. I did feel (as with many other Singaporeans) that the triumph of the "old guard" was quite a watershed in civil society.

Since coming back, I've signed up as a volunteer with AWARE. I've been helping out now and then with their ongoing Needs Assessment survey amongst members - many of whom have only joined in the last few months as a result of the much hyped-up controversy.

I was happy to attend the Open Space forum held the first weekend after I got back. I met really nice, articulate and smart ladies from all walks of life who discussed pertinent concerns facing Singaporean women today. I also had the opportunity to meet several 'veteran' members of AWARE, some of whom were vocal supporters in the We-are-AWARE camp during the April/May saga - it was rather strange to actually meet the people I'd been hearing so much about from all the media reports; ultimately however, I found them really pleasant and down-to-earth, especially Dana Lam, the current President of AWARE :)

Tomorrow, I'm heading out to Little India as part of a small informal tour organized by AWARE. We're hoping to gain some insight into the lives of migrant workers in Singapore. I'm also supposed to write a short article about the trip itself - really excited!

2. More about AWARE: Transcribing the EGM Part of my volunteer stint at AWARE involves transcribing the taped proceedings of the Extraordinary General Meeting (EGM), held on May 2nd. This was the pivotal meeting which saw the new exco being dealt a shattering blow of no confidence by AWARE members. I was just looking back at my previous posts which bemoaned my inability to attend the EGM in person - how uncanny that I'm now actually able to experience the meeting in all its vividness, its passion, its drama - albeit retrogressively and through film.

In any case it's been an great experience, never mind the occasional mundanity of re-listening to parts of the audio over and over again to catch an indistinct word. I've discovered so many brilliant speeches by AWARE members made during the EGM which were not captured or reported by the news. I'm hoping to complete the transcript by the end of July.

3. Interning at a TV Production Company: It was really quite a stroke of luck that I nabbed this internship. I arrived back in Singapore thinking I might possibly bum away the holidays after being rejected for an internship in Venice. However within a week of my return I suddenly got a call from a local TV company offering me a post as a research intern for the summer. Thanks to NUS Museums for forwarding my resume and contact details! This really was quite a shot out of the blue.

I'm really glad I accepted the job. I've only been working about 3 weeks thus far, but so far it's been a very good experience. I'm currently attached to a documentary project due for release on National Day 2009. The research I've been conducting has been challenging, and is pushing me a fair bit - in a good way though. There have been frustrating moments when I've encountered plenty of dead-ends. However, I find that I'm learning more each day - not just about TV production companies, but also about Singapore itself given how its a documentary about Singapore history. I find increasingly that there are many things about a seemingly familiar locality (even one I call "home" by default) which are new, novel and indeed, very fascinating.

In the past two weeks, I've been asked to do research on a now largely-forgotten sea sporting event which saw seafarers from as far as the Riau Islands and Indonesian archipelago converging in the harbour every year. I've discovered Chinese fire-walking ceremonies in Singapore, and the existence of a tiny South-western island called Pulau Sudong which was once populated by a thriving kampong village - it was completely cleared in the 1980s and is now a live-firing range. Can you believe that? And best of all, I've had the opportunity to view rare archival film footage as part of my job - it is amazing to see such images of ordinary people going about their day-to-day affairs captured in vivid colour and stored for posterity's sake. I'm really excited about this project and I can't wait to see the final product!

4. Scribbling: In between I have also been occupying myself with what I think of as short scribbling stints. I'm back as one of the senior editors for my faculty's journal, which I'm hoping will be launched in the first semester of the new school term (August). Apart from my editorial duties, I've also recently signed up as a volunteer at the NUS Museums. I'm supposed to pen reviews of their latest exhibitions for their online newsletter.

I've just viewed a great exhibit which is actually on-going at the Museum. It showcases the work of 4 students from the Architecture faculty. The exhibit explores how each student/artist has conceptualized an iconic local landmark - the Singapore river. I thought it was really good stuff. In particular, I enjoyed the installation which interpreted the river aurally, through a combination of oral clips and music. I need to sit down over the weekend and start penning this review so I can meet the deadline! Eek.

Right, hair is dry. Am off to bed because it's really late and I need to be in school early tomorrow for some faculty event. Am meeting some freshmen for a kind of Q&A session about school life! Should be exciting :) Talk to you all soon.

Goodbye Edinburgh

2009-05-30T14:11:00.000-07:00

Will be leaving for the airport in about 6 hours time. Still wondering if I ought to get some sleep now, or to just stay up so I'll be able to doze off on the plane.

Spent a quiet evening having dinner, before heading off quite spontaneously to Holyrood Park. Walked along the Salisbury Craigs, and watched the sunset. It was simply breath-taking. Afterwards, I lay on the grass for a while just soaking in the cool evening air. Eventually, I pulled myself away and headed back to Pollock Halls.

A fitting end to an amazing exchange. I will really miss Edinburgh - 'tis a wonderful city.

This will probably be my last entry in Edinburgh. Next time you hear from me, I'll be on the other side of the world in Singapore.

Three years ago when I was a freshman at NUS, I never imagined I would actually make it all the way up North to Scotland. But it happened, and I'm glad it did.

Thanks to all who've been following and leaving comments on this blog. I hope you enjoyed reading about my journey in these past 5 months. See you all soon.

Finding Gary

2009-05-30T09:38:00.000-07:00

A short note on something else I did this morning, which I didn't mention in the previous post.

I walked toward the general direction of Princes Street around 11am today. I had gone to Tescos to buy some breakfast for Gary (see earlier post) - just some fruit granola bars and orange juice. Nothing fancy.

He had said he would be begging along North Bridge Road this morning. As I made my way through the crush of people however, I saw no sign of him. Stood for a while at the juction of Princes Street, looking around me. However I didn't spot a huddled figure with a bruised left eye anywhere. Gave up and walked back toward George Square in search of some breakfast for myself thinking I would find him later, or give the food away to some other homeless person.

It is a strange feeling. I usually scan the area around Princes Street for a familiar landmark or an interesting shop. This is the first time I've gone there with my eyes fixed somewhere near the ground, searching out an actual person.

Strangely enough as I was walking back, didn't see any homeless people along the Nicolson Street stretch (there usually are). Didn't even see the Big Issue guy outside Tescos. Maybe the heat got to all of them.

I still have the granola bars. I might drink the juice later.

Pre-Departure Notes...Random Thoughts while Walking Around

2009-05-30T08:58:00.000-07:00

Am done packing and cleaning out my room!

Most of my neighbours have left already. There are sparse crowds in the dining room these days. Pollock halls is quieter than ever before. It's strange to know that at this moment, I might be the only one left in my corridor.

The sun was unbearably strong today. I never thought I would say this, but the weather was hot enough to beat me back indoors by 2pm!

However, found time to say farewell to some familiar spots in Edinburgh before making a hasty retreat back to Pollock halls - I walked around Nicolson Street, George Square, the Meadows ...and even the school library! (printed out some last minute documents) And as I did my rounds this clear summer day, I couldn't help but picture a shadow of myself in January, bundled up in my thick winter parka, gingerly treading across these now all-too-familiar roads.

Did some last minute souvenir shopping at the Farmer's Market, and along Clerk street. Ever since that disastrous afternoon where I window shopped for souvenirs along the Royal Mile and bought practically nothing, I have decided never to set foot inside another tartan-swathed, bagpipe-bellowing shop ever again. And looking at the crowds thronging the Royal Mile this morning, I think I was wise to steer clear of Heritage of Scotland today.

At the Farmer's market, I picked up some lovely hand-made chocolate products for my former boss. Also purchased a pack of buttery short-bread made in Langholm by a smiling old lady for my research supervisor at NUS. My final stop was at Anteaques to pick up some loose tea (the Edinburgh Blue Lady!), which I managed to get in a nice red tea caddy at 50% off - score!

I like the fact that these gifts were purchased from places which I discovered, and from producers/retailers whom I was able to chat with personally; they all consequently have some kind of interesting 'back story' behind them, which I think is pretty neat.

Pleased with my buys. I just hope they survive the trip back home - the shortbread in particular looks crumbly.

On another note, Summer's really kicking in here in Edinburgh. As I've mentioned, the weather's become 'festive' (ie: hot), and there are bus-loads of tourists coming into the city. Buskers and street stalls have started to appear along the Royal Mile since April, and have practically mushroomed in number this month. And today, I even witnessed the Orange Walk - a procession commemorating the victory of the Protestant William of Orange over King James II in the 17th-century. A woman I spoke to noted derisively that this walk is considered sectarian, and not everyone likes it - have since learnt that the Orange procession also occurs in Northern Ireland, and has been greeted with abuse in some Catholic neighbourhoods.

However sectarian or not, I have to admit it was somewhat exciting to witness the military bands marching in all the way from the Meadows. A great sense of occasion in the air, though I suppose the cause celebrated is rather contentious.

Have about 10 more hours till I leave for the airport. I'm starting to feel a little nostalgic and unwilling to leave. At the same time, I'm pleased with myself for having made it through 5 months on my own :)

It's amazing how much the city has changed since that cold dark wintery night when I teethered precariously along Waverley Bridge to find a cab. And I'm sure in some small way, I've changed along with it.

Second Last Day in Edinburgh

2009-05-29T16:50:00.001-07:00

Is it possible to feel so much in just one day?

At 11am, I was making my way to South Queensferry, riding high on a fresh, crisp morning breeze; I was totally psyched and excited about my mini day-trip to Inchcolm Island.

On Inchcolm Island, I found myself surrounded in a oasis of peace and quiet. I ate my packed lunch whilst lounging on a field overlooking the Firth of Forth. A colony of gulls circled the rock-face in front of me.

The late afternoon saw me falling deeper into a state of lazy indolence as the glare of the sun got stronger. I hitched a ride from a very kind stranger to Dalmeny station, where I waited for the 3.50pm train back to Waverley. It was a surreal feeling, waiting alone along a hot, dusty railroad which shimmered weirdly under the sun's rays. The tracks seemed to go on for forever, before dissolving into a pool of searing light (almost mirage-like) at the horizon.

By 5pm, I was gratefully nursing a cup of freshly brewed tea at Anteaques with buttered scones on the side. I drank out of delicate china, and stirred sugar into my tea with an ornate silver tea-spoon. I was surrounded by the strains of opera, and a low murmur of voices, punctuated by the occasional clink of tea cups.

At 7pm, I was changed, refreshed and ready to head out again.

At 7.30pm I found myself in a warm, cosy den at the Waverley Bar where I attended the monthly session of Guid Crack - a local story-telling club. I was delighted and utterly charmed by the various stories told that evening: a little old lady recalled an amazing voyage she undertook across Scandinavia in the days after World war 2 - her memories foraging for food while on the road, and sleeping under the stars were recounted with palpable excitement, as evinced in the tremor of her voice and the animated light in her eyes. Fables from Greenland and Iceland were also told with gusto by the other story-tellers of the night, while everyone joined in to sing Ally Bally, a popular Scottish lullaby.

By 9pm, I was making my way to Cartlon Hill determined to catch the sunset. I felt an inexplicable surge of adrenaline as I ran across Market Street, spying the silhouette of the Scott Monument framed against an already ochre sky. Strangely enough, I felt as if I were rushing desperately against time - racing toward the hill while it was still light...and also perhaps, a response to my impending departure? In any case, I ran up Carlton Hill just to see the sun sink gracefully behind the distant mountains - possibly the last sunset I would ever see in Edinburgh.

As I made my way down Carlton Hill, I bumped into a new visitor to Edinburgh from Thailand. Joe has been in the UK for 2 weeks, and just arrived in Edinburgh today. I chatted with him a little about Singapore art, studying History in NUS and understanding the Scottish accent. I also advised him on how to find Portobello Beach, and gave suggestions about what he could do tomorrow - it is gratifying to know that after 5 months, I'm able to generally guide newcomers to the city. And not too long ago, I was in Joe's position, wondering whether there were any subways in Edinburgh.

At 10pm, I had a rather saddening encounter with Gary, a homeless person who begs along North Bridge road. A cash offering resulted in a long conversation where he relayed his problems to me including a recent attack by a hammer-wielding punk. He's been on the streets for 10 years which I was shocked by. Squatted next to him while chatting, and received quizzical looks from passer-bys; I cannot imagine being the target of such gazes every day for ten years. Gary notes that he's embarassed and has lost all self-confidence, but simply doesn't know how to get out of it.

It is sobering to think that the couple of pounds I spend so easily on a meal makes a world of a difference to people like Gary. He couldn't stop shaking my hand after I offered him money, and that was what initiated the whole conversation. I think he was really desperate to talk to someone and to prove (in his words) that he's a 'good man' who wants to get off the streets, but isn't able to/sure how to. And the worst part is, (and he's uncomfortably right) most well-to-do Edinburghers don't care about people like him.

I'll admit it's hard, but next time you see a homeless person (there are quite a few here), do try talking to them. Every little bit of concern helps.

Surprising Finds Closer to Home...

2009-05-28T12:02:00.000-07:00

So after venturing to neighbourhoods/districts further afield earlier this week, I decided to take things easy today. Did a bit more packing, and took a stroll through South Clerk and Clerk Street.

This is the road I've been taking for months now to school, and I've seen it so often that I'm almost sick of it. Yet despite always being in a rush to get to my lectures (late-riser that I am), I've frequently been surprised by the appearance of 'new' shops along this seemingly all-too-familiar route - it's enough for me to slow down and take a closer look.

Of course these stores aren't new. They've been there all along, but are generally overlooked as I walk briskly past them, head down. However every now and then, some of them suddenly come to light thanks to a casual glimpse or head-turn at just the right moment.

My walk today also surfaced more outlets which have managed to remain hidden for a whole 5 months...

1. Engine Shed Cafe, St Leonard's Lane

Okay fine, so this isn't on Clerk Street but it is situated along St Leonard's road which is just parallel to the former! This is also an alternative route I take to school - favoured, because there are less traffic lights and vehicles, and the road is downward sloping (hehe). At the same time, I've always thought it was a bit of a quiet street with not all that much going on for it.

Took a sidestreet today, and found myself on St Leonard's lane. Walked a little further and found The Engine Shed Cafe.

The second floor houses a cheerful little cafe, which used to be linked to a now demolished railway station (hence the industrial-sounding name). It's a large and airy space with high ceilings, and plenty of windows which flood the place with natural sunlight. The Engine shed cafe offers fuss-free self service dining, canteen style - the menu is written on a blackboard next to the serving counter and includes a host of organic and vegetarian dishes including Moroccan vegetable stew with cous-cous, and home-made hommus dips with oatcakes.

One interesting feature about the Engine Shed Cafe is its commitment to hiring staff with learning difficulties. The cafe aims to train and empower these individuals by giving them work experience, and equipping them with practical and transferable skills. I think it's a good concept, and I would encourage you to come with an open mind, plenty of patience and a big smile for the staff!

I had a large bowl of carrot and coconut soup with a fresh roll - an unusual combination but tasted quite good. To top it off, I ordered a chocolate cake which was really nice! They have quite a selection of sweet treats on the counter including raspberry flapjacks and carrot cakes, some of which are vegan-friendly.

In general, you can come here for nice, healthy and simple meals at reasonable prices (paid 3.50pounds for the entire thing). There's also a bakery on the first floor, which produces a selection of breads, some of which are suitable for yeast or wheat free diets. And finally, the Engine Shed also sells a range of tofus and oatcakes! Mm, vegetarian food has never sounded so good.

2. The Himalaya: Charity Shop and Cafe
South Clerk Street

So this ranks as one of the more unusual charity shops I've seen thus far. You're immediately hit by the cloying smell of incense the moment you enter. The front of the store stocks a host of exotic-looking products including Buddhist prayer beads, hand-made jewelry from Tibet, fine silk scarves and Indian-style cushion covers.

But this is not just a place to pick up quirky Asian curios. The Himalaya also appears to be quite a socially and politically conscious enterprise. According to a sign in the shop, the proceeds go toward a variety of charitable causes which help children in the Himalayan region. The shop also features photographs of the Dalai Lama, and sells a variety of 'Free Tibet' t-shirts.

There's also a cosy sort of cafe round the back, and a basement space where various activities are held including yoga and massage workshops. An interesting place definitely worth checking out!

3. Anteaques, Clerk Street

So there are a handful of stores in Edinburgh which specialize in unusual product pairings. Elvis Shakespeare along Leith walk is one, selling second-hand music and books. And now I've found Anteaques which is closer to home!

It looks utterly quaint. A shop that combines teas and antique furniture/curios! I'm already intrigued.

Sadly, Anteaques only opens on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays! (more intriguing) So I haven't managed to go in and have a look around yet. Will pop by tomorrow or the day after, time-willing!

By way of personal reflection, my various new 'discoveries' along the one road in Edinburgh I should be most familiar with has been enlightening. It just goes to show that you can live in a place for a fairly long time, and still be surprised by something new everday. If anything, these past few weeks have taught me to really get off my bum and get out there, and start exploring what's around me.

It's this kind of energy and curiousity which I hope I'll bring back to Singapore. Admittedly, most of my time since growing up has been spent in school, at home or in nearby recreational areas with friends like the mall or the cinema. School holidays usually see me going abroad for vacation with the family; hanging out in the same-ish shopping / eating / drinking districts with friends or just chilling at home. So I guess I can't say confidently that I really know Singapore inside-out.

Edinburgh is about 1/3 the size of Singapore, and I've only just begun to scratch beneath the surface in the past few weeks - and I have to admit, it's only happened because of the amount of free time I have now, and the force with which I'm pushing myself to see things before I leave. And even then, I'm still encountering new things everyday, even in places which I think I've seen enough of.

It really leads me to wonder: at what point does Time stop being an important factor when deciding how well you 'know' a place? Living in Singapore for 21 years, but having a mere fraction of the energy I have now to explore, how much have I left undiscovered in the place I call 'home'?

An Indoorsy Wednesday: Auction Houses and Dance Studios

2009-05-28T08:22:00.000-07:00

Did a weird assortment of things on Wednesday, jumping from place to place. Headed off to Broughton Place on a bit of a whim, to catch my first ever art auction!

After that, poked around Valvona and Crolla along Elm Row, a 70-odd year institution set up by Italian immigrants; apparently, this food emporium was so successful that it became the first port of call for waves of other Italian immigrants in the early 20th-century. Today, you can go in and marvel at the floor-to-ceiling shelves which are stocked with an international array of food products, in addition to a tasty looking cheese-counter and wine section! Bought some prettily-packaged tea leaves for my teachers back home - I think a soothing brew will be what they need when pouring over our research papers.

After that, I hopped down for some takeaway fish and chips at the Montgomery fish bar (very friendly and very loud Italian cook; pretty good fish!); went for a dance class at Grassmarket and ended the day with a nice dinner at Pinsheng's place where we had home-cooked food (though I got lazy and just brought some wine :P) and a very intense game of Monopoly where everyone except Jules went spectacularly bankrupt.

Some of the above proved to be rather interesting indoorsy places to wile the time away - wish I had known about them earlier, especially during the winter season! They would have been nice alternatives to staying cooped up in the library or my room, facebooking incessantly. So if ever you're stuck in Edinburgh on a cold, wintery day wondering what to do, you can consider getting yourself down to these places for some nice, indoorsy activities!

1. Lyon and Turnbull, 33 Broughton Place

Okay so this might not be to everyone's taste, but I scoured the web on Tuesday night and realized there was an auction occuring in Edinburgh on Wednesday - I had to go! I've never been to an auction before despite spending a whole week discussing and studying the Art market in my art history class. In addition, the auction in question featured fine jewelry and silver! xD (cue nerdy grin)

Best of all, I called ahead on Wednesday morning, and the friendly lady I spoke to informed me that anyone could come down for the auction even if they weren't intending to buy anything. With those reassurances, I felt emboldened to make my way down to the very sophisticated sounding Lyon and Turnbull, Scotland's oldest firm of auctioneers and appraisers.

Lyon and Turnbull is situated in a nice neoclassical building along a quiet street. The salesroom is the first thing you'll see when you get inside, and it's true that anyone can just walk in, no questions asked. So that I did, feeling rather excited as I took my place between rather genteel-looking ladies of leisure. Some interesting observations I made during my first auction:

1. Seating: There are plush-looking seats arranged in the centre of the room for visitors, but I was surprised to see quite a few people sitting right at the back of the salesroom on the steps! I wondered why they were doing that, until the auction got underway.

There are some benefits to sitting on the steps: from your place at the back of the room, you can observe everyone else and see clearly who's placing the bids - from what I noticed, the auctioning process is extremely rapid. Call me silly but I was expecting bidders to wave their auction cards wildly like they sometimes do in those Hollywood movies. However from what I saw, bidders tend to communicate with the auctioneer using fairly subtle gestures - a slight nod of the head or a discrete flick of the wrist combined with eye contact. It was sometimes hard to see who was bidding from where I sat, and almost impossible to tell if someone on the steps was placing a bid unless I craned my neck right around. So yes, sitting at the back on the stairs - smart move if you want to observe the proceedings better.

2. The Noise: I realize that a lot goes on in an auction, apart from the sale itself. In the salesroom for instance, staff from Lyon and Turnbull are stationed at two rows of tables which flank the sitting area. They are constantly on the phone with clients, giving them real-time updates on the auction, information on the latest bids placed and also placing bids on their behalf. An antique Jewish wedding ring in particular, saw an exciting bidding war waged between 4 phone bidders communicating through their representatives at L&T. The lot, estimated at 1500 - 2000 pounds on the catalogue, was eventually sold for a whooping 15 000pounds to one of the four very persistent bidders! And we never got to find out who it was >.<

Apart from the phone business, there are also quite a few people who mill around checking out the lots, which are displayed on either side of the salesroom - here, another revelation: they don't physically bring the lots up onstage during the auction. If you want to view the items or obtain more information about them, you should either attend a viewing session prior to the auction, or consult the catalogue. Nevertheless, some people will roam around the salesroom just before the auction starts. In addition, there's also a viewing gallery on the second floor which overlooks the salesroom. On Wednesday, the gallery featured several paintings about to be auctioned off at a later date. Consequently, there were a handful of viewers walking about on the second floor, with the occasional curious individual peering over the balustrade to look at us.

So as you can tell, there's a lot of clatter and chatter going on at any one time during an auction. People frequently stand up to move about as well. This makes it rather lively, and there are always interesting observations to be made! Glad I went down for a look see. You can view upcoming auctions at Lyon and Turnbull here!

2. Dance Base, 14 - 16 Grassmarket

This place touts itself as Scotland's National Centre for Dance, and has an amazing line-up of dance programmes. I'm most impressed by their daily selection of 'drop-in' classes - basically, you just turn up on the day itself half an hour before the class you're interested in; make payment, change into comfortable attire and just dance! There's no need for bookings or reservations. Consequently, it's a great way to sample a whole range of classes on offer, with no obligation to continue.

Wednesday's line-up included Ballet for Lunch, Ceilidh dancing, Contact Improvisation, Free-style Contemporary, Hip Hop for Beginners and Pilates! Each class also has a difficulty level assigned to it, so you can make an informed choice based on your fitness levels and how much dance experience you have.

I opted for the Gentle Jazz class (5 pounds, student concession) at 5pm, which is graded at Level 1 (easy-peasy!) and thus suitable for beginners. Really fun stuff! The class was taken by a young-ish lady named Grainne who was so nice and enthusiastic. It wasn't a very popular class - just a handful of people in a huge studio, so it was quite nerve-wracking knowing that I wouldn't be able to hide my mistakes behind a whole crowd of other people! However Grainne was very patient and encouraging, which helped mitigate the self-consciousness. All in all, a good afternoon with little nuggets of jazz set to the soundtrack of Hairspray! Enjoyed it quite a bit! :)

I really recommend going down for a class on those days where you've got nothing else to do except sit at home and mooch around. It's a fun and healthy form of exercise; you get to meet new people; and the selection of classes is quite wide so there's definitely something for everyone, whether you're young, old, a newbie, or a seasoned dancer. Check out their drop-in programme here! The classes have been organized in various categories for easy browsing and selection.

Of Wontons and Brownies

2009-05-26T14:54:00.000-07:00

4 months of repetitive dining hall food has put me on a rampage across Edinburgh to find good grub, savoury snacks and delectable desserts at student-friendly prices. Here are a couple more comments on eats around the city.

1. The Lee On, 3 - 5 Bruntsfield Place

After visiting Chop Chop I knew I had to come here if only to compare the Chinese cuisine! At the same time, I also wanted to test an online review I'd come across before which bemoaned the sorry state of East Asian cuisine in Edinburgh.

The Lee On has apparently been serving Cantonese-style dishes for 40 years now! That's a mark of amazing longevity, and I had the opportunity to check this place out on Tuesday.

The shopfront is a distinctive red, with a series of port-holes revealing Chinese-style lanterns hanging from the ceiling inside. An English-language menu displayed on the window also serves to entice hungry travellers inside.

Surprisingly, the main dining area in the restaurant is situated all the way down in the basement. It's a little subterranean network of rooms, all of which are well lit and neatly furnished with (what else?) cheerful red table cloths. I dined in a room which included two other French men sipping red wine, and a group of Scottish regulars discussing Britain's Got Talent over vegetable spring roll starters.

After being handed a menu written in Chinese, I requested to see the English one which had been displayed on the storefront - I already had my eye on a particular dish, and wasn't sure what it would be called in Mandarin. However after some hesitation, the Chinese waitress admitted that the two menus are actually different - apparently the Chinese menu contains dishes aimed at a specifically Chinese clientale. Some of these options are not available on the English menu. This was quite interesting and I told her I would consult both menus before deciding!

Strangely enough however, the dishes on the Chinese menu appeared the pricier of the two. I had expected the reverse to be true, but oh well.

In the end, I submitted to my craving for comfort food and ordered a wonton noodle soup off the Chinese menu. The noodle dishes on the English menu appeared limited, and were mostly of the fried 'chow mein' variety - didn't see any soupy options sadly.

First off this is some pricey noodle dish - the stated price in the menu was about 8pounds if I remember correctly. You can get the same dish for a fraction of that in Singapore - though admittedly not in a restaurant setting. However that said, these wonton noodles were good - about as close as you can get to the ones back home. Nice springy noodles with a good 'bite,' fresh leafy vegetables (yum! The right kind as well.) and best of all, delectable won tons with silky smooth skins. And to Lee On's credit, there were a lot of wontons - I counted at least eight of those pork, chive and mushroom dumplings. It's nice to see a restaurant that doesn't sting on the good stuff!

Other little things made my experience at Lee On a pretty good one: firstly, I was immediately handed a huge pot of Chinese tea the minute I sat down. This turned out to be complimentary, which I felt was pretty generous seeing how I was a solo diner. Strangely enough, I did not notice any pots on the neighbouring tables - hmm.

Secondly, got a pleasant surprise when I received the hand-written bill. For some reason they had knocked off a whole 1.50pound from the meal. I'm not sure why. In any case, I wasn't complaining at all. Perhaps they liked me hehehe.

I think it helps to converse with the predominantly Chinese staff in Mandarin - even inexpertly, like myself. I have a feeling it helps break down barriers and open some doors, if you know what I mean.

One downside about dining in Lee On - as mentioned earlier, most of the seating area is located in the basement. Throughout my meal, I heard thundering footsteps on the wooden staircase as waitresses zipped back and forth, welcoming new guests and showing them down to the tables. A little distracting - definitely not the right place for a quiet date. But otherwise, was pleased overall with The Lee On. The noodles at least have gotten my stamp of approval!

2. Back yet Again! Brownies at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe

The chocolate craving finally hit as I knew it would someday. So it was off to the Fruitmarket Gallery to sample their brownies this afternoon!

It's not the best brownie I've had, but it is still good. The brownie has a thick, slightly crunchy crust ontop, and the rest of it has a chewy, almost fudgy texture. It's my personal preference for brownies to be more moist, however I really enjoyed this one all the same! Nevertheless I think it's hard to top the Fruitmarket cafe's rhubarb tart - it ranks as one of the best sweet treats I've had in a long while!

In any case, after three good experiences here this month, two of which pertained to their lip-smacking desserts, I have nothing but praise for the Fruitmarket gallery. Come here to view the art, browse the bookshop, or just head straight to the cafe for cakes or lunch - their meals look great as well. I'm tempted by the crayfish and avocado salad, and the Seafood platter! Mmmm. So much good food, so little time.

Pre-departure Mundanities: Packing

2009-05-26T14:23:00.000-07:00

With just 4 days left in Edinburgh, I decided I ought to start on some packing today. Have gotten along pretty well - have packed about half my clothes (the clean ones). The other half will go through laundry before making their way into my suitcase.

In the meantime have also accumulated a massive amount of used paper which I shall chuck in the recycle bin tomorrow. I don't have a habit of keeping old brochures and lecture notes haha.

Am experiencing a distinct sense of deja vu as I pack. It wasn't too long ago that I was folding the same clothes and placing them in my suitcase back in Singapore.

A mild sense of poignancy as I look through some of my earlier "pre-departure" blog entries in January.

This too, is another pre-departure note I suppose. Only now, I'm preparing to go back home :)

Trip down Morningside: Visiting the Hermitage of Braid and Blackford Hill

2009-05-25T14:46:00.000-07:00

Was exceedingly proud of myself today for several reasons:

1. Without the aid of a map, I found my way to Morningside - a fairly posh neighbourhood in Edinburgh which lies outside the boundaries of my city map. Furthermore, I also managed to get directions to the Hermitage of Braid, which lies even further south!

It's in times like these when I really appreciate Edinburghers. They are (with little exception) friendly to the fault, and are ever willing to help strangers on the street. Thanks to the man on Leven street who kindly asked if I needed directions (I must've looked quite lost), and to the lady at the bus stop who actually went onboard a bus to ask the driver what the quickest way to the Hermitage was! Bless her.

Also had a good experience when I digressed and found myself in Christ Church; the friendly warden informed me that the church was closed but turned on the lights in the main nave, so I could see the altar better - and it was indeed, quite a pretty church. I think he would've even let me have had a go at the pipe organ, only I vigorously assured him that I couldn't play a tune to save my life.

2. Managed to successfully reach the summit of Blackford Hill, which is located within the Hermitage itself. It was not a particularly hard climb, however I'm pleased that I reached the top anyway and all on my own two feet!

The summit of Blackford Hill...sadly, that figure off in the distance isn't me (yet. Haha)

Blackford hill is really great - the top of the hill is quite a flat, grassy plateau, save for a large-ish rocky outcrop from which you can get excellent views of Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Craigs and the general city scape. In addition to that, you can enjoy sweet views of the Hermitage itself, which is I think, the most awesome part of the deal because it's simply beautiful. Finally, the Craigmillar Park golf course is also right next to the Hermitage, and you can see the sprawling expanse of the course from the top of Blackford Hill as well.

Arthur's Seat...taken just before I ascended the summit.

View from the summit of Blackford Hill

Really stupendous. You could stay for hours at the summit taking everything in. Once you get bored, there are still plenty of wide open grassy spaces at the top of the hill where you can lounge or entertain yourself. I saw large, extended families walking their dogs at the top of the hill, before settling down for a serious game of football. I imagine you could also pull up a bit of grass and have a picnic with friends.

Best part about Blackford hill is that it's generally quiet and peaceful - not too many people come up here, and those that do are mainly young families or dog-walkers on a placid, leisurely stroll. I didn't see the camera-clickers (apart from myself haha), or scary fitness freaks who crawl the sides of Arthur's Seat.

Blackford hill is highly recommended. The easiest way to ascend it is via the side where the Royal Observatory is situated. There are some wooden, rickety steps which should help you up the first stretch. After that, it's generally quite a gentle walk up - enjoy!

3. Finding and exploring the Hermitage, period. Thanks once again to the guidebook I picked up at the Red Door gallery - it's such a petite read, but it's utterly invaluable! I would have never known about the Hermitage otherwise.

Apart from Blackford Hill, the Hermitage boasts a lovely walking trail through the woods. The pathway hugs the river closely, and if you're lucky, you'll spy dogs happily jumping into the (shallow) water, enthusiastically investigating the rocks on the river bed. On Blackford Hill itself, keep your eyes peeled for various colourful birds and even the occassional elusive brown hare! Furthermore, I thought I spied several white ponies off in the distance...but I can't be sure. You be the judge:

So in all, another great nature and walking spot discovered this week. Most pleased with myself :)

By the Sea: Newhaven Quay and Portobello Beach

2009-05-25T12:54:00.000-07:00

We had gorgeous weather yesterday: it was bright if a little cloudy in the morning, but by mid-day the sun had emerged, blazing hot. I've been really pleased with the weather in the past couple of days, and yesterday was really tops. With golden rays of sun streaming in merrily through my otherwise dreary room, I decided I absolutely had to hit the beach.

When I first arrived in early January, 'beach' and 'Scotland' seemed polar opposites and never the twain shall meet. However I have found out that Scotland has its fair share of lovely beaches - my Scottish Lit teacher insists vigorously that the sands of Morar are pure white and absolutely stunning. Sadly, a trip back to the Highlands seems doubtful, so I had to be content with beaches nearer to home...hence, after some quick googling, I decided I would be off to the east of Edinburgh, to Portobello Beach!

1. But not before a small diversion...to Newhaven Quay

One thing I'd forgotten about public buses is that they tend to come less frequently on Sundays compared to weekdays. So sadly, I arrived at the bus-stop only to realize that the next bus to Portobello would come in a very tedious-sounding 40 minutes! In the end, I opted for an earlier bus to Newhaven, (small village next to Leith) thinking I would make my way down to Portobello from there later in the day.

The bus dropped me off somewhere near Newhaven Quay - it was just a short walk up the street. The quay is quite small, with a few good, raised steps and benches facing it. I think it's a nice place to have a sandwich or to sip a coffee whilst gazing at the boats which rock lazily in the water.

I've learnt that Newhaven used to see better days as a bustling port and shipbuilding centre. However it's pretty quiet these days, as I observed when I went - or perhaps that's just Newhaven on a Sunday afternoon?

In any case, I really liked the lighthouse which stands at the edge of the quay - it was built in 1869, and has since fallen into disrepair. I don't think the lighthouse is in use now, but it still remains - evocative of better days in this maritime village perhaps? In any case, a pretty and somewhat romantic feature to contemplate.

Took a stroll along the promenade which is connected to the Quay area. Very nice walk, as long as you don't mind getting a bit wind-swept. It was a clear day so I could see all the way across the Firth of Forth. I think I could even make out the outlines of mountains far off in the distance!

At the same time, it was also somewhat surreal to be flanked on either side by completely different-looking structures - tiny, homely villages across the Firth of Forth toward the left, and modern waterfront condominiums on my immediate right. The latter in particular, would not look out of place at all in Singapore!

Finally made my way to Ocean Terminal shopping centre at Leith. Took a short break before wandering off to find a bus to Portobello...

2. Finally! Arriving at the Beach

Portobello gives out an entirely different vibe from Newhaven. Like the latter, it is also located on the coast of the Firth of Forth. However unlike Newhaven, Portobello gives the impression of a fashionable early 20th-century seaside resort - the kind of place the 'middle classes' would escape to over the weekend for a little bit of sun and sand. There are quaint looking signs along Portobello High Street which direct visitors to the Beach and other leisure facilities in the vicinity.

The beach itself is quite nice. Obviously the Firth of Forth does not have the incomparable beauty of the sparkling Riveria, or its glitzy waterfront glamour. However, I was very impressed by the cleanliness of Portobello despite the number of families with young children running around...some people were even having a barbeque on the beach! Nevertheless, didn't encounter any noticeable debris or rubbish while walking around on the sand - truly remarkable.

And that's one thing Portobello has which the fancy plages in Nice don't - bountiful amounts of lovely, soft tan-coloured sand. Nice's beaches are rocky and generally not very nice to walk or lie on, especially when the pebbles are heated up by the noon-time sun (ouch!) Portobello however, is perfect for a leisurely seaside stroll. You can kick of your shoes and walk about freely, feeling the sand run through your toes...as mentioned earlier, the beach is quite clean so little worries that you'll step on a broken beer bottle or the like.

There are also plenty of benches and rocky ledges along the promenade where you can sit down with an ice-cream or takeaway fish 'n chips (there are eateries along the beach), and just soak in the sun. Really enjoyed just sitting by the beach, reading my book and listening to the sound of the incoming tide. Ah, bliss!

Perfect place to rest, relax and recharge yourself. The beach is popular with families but it's not excessively crowded (well, not yet perhaps). Take a walk down the promenade to find the quieter stretches along the beach. But crowded or not, I'm glad I finally found some sun, sand and surf in Scotland!

Weather Update

2009-05-24T03:00:00.000-07:00

Okay, so the weather in Scotland has officially confounded me. Just last week I was moaning about how it would never get warm, but it looks like I'll have to eat my words yet again.

Temperatures in the past few days have climbed to around 16 to 17 degrees celsius. For the first time since I got here, I've been able to walk around in just a light cardigan and not get cold spasms! And for the first time two days ago, I began to crave ice cream.

It's just sad that the weather got so nice just when I'm about to leave :(

Thoughts on Cultural Generalizations

2009-05-23T13:22:00.001-07:00

Attended a small party the other week, and left feeling just mildly disturbed. Shall not go into details, but suffice to say I was slightly unsettled by the cultural stereotypes some people I met held about Asia in general. I should qualify that these are all lovely and pleasant people, some of whom are my friends. The "stereotypes" in question were also not ones which were particularly offensive or insulting. However, they do reflect some degree of misinformation or ignorance which I had not expected.

At the same time, couldn't help but be amused by some remarks raised during the little party. These included questions about whether Chinese men are really short ("I hear that whenever they find someone in China who's really tall, they force them to join the basketball team immediately!"), and if Chinese people eat their meals on the floor.

To the first, I assured her that they are not as short as she thinks they are. She was really surprised when I said that 1.70-ish meters is quite average for Singaporean men, and it is not considered exceptionally tall. I also suggested that there might be regional differences in height and build within China itself, and in overseas Chinese communities.

To the second, a post-grad American student in Japanese linguistics noted that it is Japanese people who eat sitting on the floor. However whilst I realize that it is a tradition in Japan to eat sitting down on tatami mats, I was a little uneasy that the party in question (mostly European) might go away with the idea that Japanese people always eat sitting down. I've been to Japan on several occasions and from memory, the restaurants/cafes I visited all had tables, chairs, and Western cutlery depending on the food served.

I feel sometimes there is a tendency to highlight exotic, Orientalized (and frankly, somewhat dated) cultural differences, whilst ignoring the similarities which bind people today. Similarities tend to be taken as the exception, rather than a very real and current product of the increasing interconnectivity between metropolitan communities.

At the same time, I don't think that similarities should simply be explained away using terms like "westernization" or "western hegemony" (as was also the case that night). Such labels can be helpful but only to a certain extent - to me it feels that after a while, they just become simplistic shorthands for complex cultural processes.

Nevertheless no matter how strange I find questions like "do you eat sitting on the floor" etc, it is still interesting to see what kind of images the world has of Asia and Singapore. Furthermore it's worth reminding myself that these questions show a willingness to know more about another culture. They can consequently be good openings for dialogue and greater understanding. I can only hope that I will be able to convey my opinions lucidly and fairly as a representative of that culture, and that the other party is willing to listen with an open mind - sadly not always the case as I realized that night. But that's another story for another time.

Saturday's Food Picks

2009-05-23T10:35:00.000-07:00

Edinburgh has been called Scotland's Larder, and in the past few weeks I'm beginning to see why. Here are some tasty treats I sampled today.

1. Returning to the Farmer's Market with Fel this afternoon, I got my hands on a Buffalo Burger. For 3 pounds you get a sizzling patty fresh off the grill. You also have a choice of sauces and relishes, to spice up the burger. It was good - much better than my ostrich burger the last time! Fel had a stoats porridge with belgium chocolate and hazelnut, which was also very nice and comforting.

The market was a lot busier this afternoon compared to last week, when I went in the morning - more people out of bed I imagine! A nice buzz in the air as we strolled through the various stalls. Along the way, we sampled some 'Tablets,' or home-made sweets which were quite delicious - I'm thinking of going back next week to buy some as presents for friends in Singapore.

2. Amazing Rhubarb Tart at the Fruitmarket Gallery Cafe! I have tried rhubarb pie before, but was never particularly a fan of it. This little gem however, has got me converted.

The tart comes with a small bowl of creme fraiche with ginger stems (pictured above). It's an optional accompaniment that costs just a pound more - however it sounded so unusual, that I just had to try it. And I'm quite glad I did...the crystallized blocks of ginger and creme fraiche actually go well together. Even better, it pairs very well with the rhubarb tart! Yumminess. Washed it down with a nice hot pot of Cranberry and Orange tea.

Have also heard that the Fruitmarket Gallery cafe serves the best brownies in Edinburgh. Shall definitely check it out if I suddenly get struck by a chocolate craving.

Friday's Find: The Union Canal

2009-05-23T09:44:00.001-07:00

Another one of Edinburgh's "secrets," tucked away in a quiet corner at Fountainbridge. I made my way down to the Union canal yesterday afternoon after watching a French thriller at the Filmhouse ("Mark of an Angel," by Safy Nebbou. Hm. A little disappointing). Started my canal walk at Edinburgh Quay, and walked down the canal for about half an hour before doubling back home via Polwarth.

The canal is a little marred by the graffiti along the walkway, but I think it still ranks as one of my favourite 'nature retreats' right up there with the Water of Leith. The canal walkway is generally quiet and peaceful, making it a great place to spend a hot, lazy Sunday afternoon. And in spite of the graffiti, the scenery is quite picturesque - at some points, I felt like I was wandering down a rustic village road!

The canal pathway is popular with cyclists which can be a bit annoying if you're a pedestrian - the road is quite narrow at certain points, so always take care you don't get knocked down by an over-zealous cyclist.

If you're up for it, consider a spot of rowing! There's a boathouse situated along the canal, and you can rent a boat there on Sundays. On that note, I noticed that the canal is also frequented by students in the University's boating society and other younger students (around 12 years old) who seem to be in some canoeing society/ course. Fun times.

I didn't finish the entire route, but I'm told that the canal terminates at the Falkirk wheel. So if you're up for it, grab a bike (or boat) one day and whiz down the entire length!! xD

Going Northern Chinese: Chop Chop

2009-05-22T16:33:00.000-07:00

Never mind the slightly cheesy name. .Chop Chop on Morrison Street was voted the Best Chinese Restaurant in Scotland (2008). With credentials like that, I would be crazy to give it a miss especially when I'm currently pining for good Asian cuisine. So having finished my exams, I decided to treat myself to a Chinese lunch at Chop Chop!

They do business lunches which go at a very, very reasonable 5.50pound. For that amount, you get a bowl of noodles, two side dishes and a serving of their famous dumplings which are distributed throughout Sainsbury's.

So I've posted two pictures to be fair. The first is a shot of my 2 side dishes (beansprouts, fried potato things) and egg noodle soup. The second picture features the dumplings which came halfway through my meal after I had already plowed through the noodles - hence their rather messy and unphotogenic state.

Well there is no comparison to the Chinese food you get in Singapore. But then again, I really have no right to be a food snob and pontificate about Chinese food in Scotland! After all, I'm sure my friends from mainland China have their own grouses about Sze Chuan and Shanghainese food in Singapore (and indeed, some have expressed them). Likewise, I was surprised when I discovered that "Japanese" food in Singapore is pretty different from the kind you actually get in Japan. So hey, I'm probably not even the best person to judge Chinese/Asian food because the versions we get in Singapore are not necessarily "authentic" either.

So I'll restrict myself to saying that all things considered, Chop Chop serves decent and acceptable Chinese fare. At the same time, don't expect it to be the same as Chinese food you get in Singapore (or China). In all, be prepared for differences and go with an open mind!

The noodles were not too bad in terms of their texture and feel - I really do like my noodles in general. The dish came with a very generous sprinkling of vegetables including diced capsicums (unusual) and Chinese parsley. I wish they had been more generous with the soup though. The egg itself formed a fluffy layer ontop of the noodles and it had some mirin in it I believe - it's done in the style you get when you order Katsu-don from a Japanese restaurant. This was a little odd to me initially. But whatever - Asian is Asian, and I'll accept anything after 5 months of sausages and stews at Pollock halls!

As for the fried dumplings (pork with chives), they were okay. I've had better, but at least the skin was crispy and not soggy. The filling was quite acceptable I felt. The dumplings also came with condiments including vinegar, chilli and garlic...although I must say that it's more common for me and my friends to douse our dumplings in vinegar with strips of ginseng rather than garlic.

The side dishes were so-so in my estimation. The bean sprouts were okay if a little sweet, but the fried potato things (I'm not even sure what they were) were just weird. More like...oily, deep fried crisps. I didn't like it too much. I really cannot think of an equivalent dish back home in Crystal Jade or any other of my favourite Chinese restaurants. Plus it didn't even taste too good, or go with the noodles and dumplings.

On the bright side, had a good experience with the service at Chop Chop. The very earnest waiter advised me on the correct proportions which go into making the perfect dumpling dipping sauce (1 part vinegar, 2 parts soy sauce, garlic, chilli). Again I have to admit that the Chinese food snob in me reared its head - I know how I like my dipping sauce, duh. But the waiter was so friendly that I felt kind of bad for thinking that.

Upon chatting with him, I found out that my waiter hails from Lithuania! Possibly the second Lithuanian I've come across in my life actually! He reckons that there are probably only 100 other Lithuanians in Edinburgh, which is quite a small number. I told him that he should consider himself special which he agreed with in a mock-serious tone. Haha.

So overall I think Chop Chop is good value for above-average Chinese food in Scotland. Time-willing, I will sample the Chinese restaurant on Bruntsfield place as a form of comparison! Now that one has been there for about 40 years I'm told! Sounds promising indeed...my chinese palette always seeks out greener pastures...mmm...

Escaping the City: My Favourite Nature Spots

2009-05-22T15:40:00.000-07:00

Was feeling rather depressed on Wednesday after revising for my History paper. This involved reading about a variety of delightful topics including the 14th-century Plague, witchcraft, heresy and failed peasant rebellions.

To get into a more optimistic mood, I took a trip to the Northern part of town, intending to revisit the Water of Leith walkway and possibly making a stop at the Royal Botanical Gardens. Was glad I took a time-out from medieval doom and gloom. Had a very relaxing and enjoying afternoon, getting "in touch" with nature. It's quite amazing to know that these beauty spots in Edinburgh are just a stone's throw away from the main city centre - fairly accessible.

Some highlights of my afternoon:

1. Water of Leith: Dean Village to Stockbridge

An instance where my first impressions were right: the Water of Leith is gorgeous and totally worth a walk. I entered the walkway via Belford Road at Dean village and took the direction toward Leith. Didn't complete the entire route though - I exited somewhere along Saunders Street in Stockbridge.

Nevertheless, it was a very pleasant walk - almost...rejuvenating I would say? The route is peaceful and scenic, leading you past the banks of the River, and up through pathways which are bordered by picturesque residences and interesting structures here and there. Perfect for a contemplative afternoon or when you just need some peace to sort out your thoughts.

Other people gravitate to the Water of Leith as well - joggers, cyclists...and even a man in a business suit who had escaped to the river for a quiet lunch, whilst admiring the fauna along the river bank. He looked so pleased and content munching on his sandwich, that I couldn't help but smile myself.

Altogether a lovely place. There are some benches along the walkway (though not a whole lot) - perfect to sit down, rest your feet and just indulge in a bit of quiet 'me' time.

2. Lunch at Herbies of Edinburgh

Felt a bit peckish after my walk, and randomly headed for the nicest looking place I could find. This turned out to be Herbie of Edinburgh situated along Northwest Circus Place (New Town). Herbie combines a small cafe with a food store selling a variety of attractive produce including olive oils, meats (Iberian ham!), bread, jams and other preserves. It's delicious even to look at.

I ordered a rare roast beef with harissa mayonnaise wrap, priced at 4.95 pounds. The portion isn't very big although it comes with a decent sized salad. However it does taste really good - the beef is thinly sliced and extremely tender. So tender it melts in your mouth. The harissa mayonnaise complements it well.

Nice place to have a bite to eat with your girlfriends, or your mum. The service is polite, if not exactly warm. A tad uppity perhaps.

3. Inverleith Park

Found myself within Inverleith park after lunch. In particular, I was very taken by the lake, and its rather largish and charming population of pure white swans. Beautiful to look at really.

The lake is situated at the trough of a large gently sloping field - I loved this! It's the perfect place to lie down (because you're on a comfortable incline) and just relax. Also, you get a good view of the New Town skyline and the adjacent sports field which, on the day I went, was being used by a men's rugby team for practice. Fantastic place to just unwind with a cold drink in hand.

4. Royal Botanic Gardens

The botanic gardens are situated just next to Inverleith park. It's really pretty and I do recommend you make the trip down. In particular, I liked the 'themed' gardens within the park. I saw one dedicated to alpine flora and fauna, and another to Chinese plant varieties which was quite interesting. The gardens are beautifully landscaped and are a pleasure to behold.
The Alpine garden

The Chinese Garden

The gardens seem to be popular with families and young children, in addition to people around my age. Quite a few visitors opted to lounge around on the grass taking advantage of the sun, and tempting the occassional squirrel with a few well-chosen nuts.

Overall had a great afternoon. The walk was just what I needed to balance out half a day's worth of intensive revision, coupled with ghastly images of Plague victims. I do recommend you go to these places if you're looking for a quick escape away from civilization - this is about as close as you can get to nature within the city centre itself.

A Week of Farewells and My Advice for Visiting Students

2009-05-22T13:09:00.001-07:00

Term's officially winding up the following Sunday. A lot people are starting to leave (or have left). Attended various farewell "get-togethers" in the past week with a sense of poignancy.

Dinner at Patricia's flat just before she went back home to Germany, 21st May

Celebrating Chee May's birthday at Kampong Ah Lee, 2 days before she flew to Holland! 18th May.

At Marianne's farewell cocktail party, held at Under The Stairs, 18th May. Zipped here right after cutting Chee May's cake!

Sending Martin off at Vodka Revolution, 16th May. Don't ask about all the empty shot glasses.

As for myself, I'm leaving Edinburgh for Singapore in 8 days. I'm feeling rather ambivalent about the whole thing. On one hand, the prospect of flying off so soon is scary, and I'm starting to wonder if I should've extended my stay just a little longer...

On the other hand, my philosophy has always been that all good things must and should come to an end. They cannot continue indefinitely, if not they wind up becoming draggy and routinized.

I'm also looking forward to see the people (and food) back home, and I'm keen to spend my summer break catching up with friends and re-acquainting myself with the sunny island I call home!

At this juncture, it's inevitable that I'll reflect on my exchange and start to analyze it from start to end. I'm really not the kind of person who will rhapsodize and say that my exchange was fantastic and that there was nothing about it I would change. I really genuinely enjoyed it, but at the same time, it's inevitable that there are several "I-should've-done-that's" and "I-wish-I-had's" at this stage. Several issues come into mind:

1) Choosing a Residence: If you're coming to Edinburgh for exchange, unless you're here in your first semester, I would personally advise against staying in Pollock halls. It's hard to meet people when they're mostly shut up in their rooms - most of the time, I don't see my neighbours, I just hear them (or their music).

Also consider that as a new student arriving in the second semester, it's harder to break into cliques which have already formed in the beginning of the year. Not that people here are unfriendly, but they are less likely to go all out to know you when they have already settled down in their own social groups.

I wish I had opted for a flat because I think the level of interaction would've been better. I would rather know a small handful of flatmates really well and intimately, rather than have many acquaintances in Pollock who are of the "hi," "bye," variety.

One good thing about Pollock halls is the meal plan but consider if you really value eating convenience over and above community and socializing. I was lucky to be with other Singaporean students in Pollock whom I had known beforehand, but if you don't know anyone think about it - what good is a meal plan if you're eating your meals alone in the cafeteria?

As a point of comparison, I went for a 5-week summer programme in Yale last year. The layout of the dorm was excellent as it had a common space on each floor for socializing, and the bedrooms were all organized around the common room - I got to know my 5 dorm-mates there way better in 5 weeks than I have most of neighbours for 5 months here.

So my advice is: opt for the flats. It's cheaper, the location will probably be better, and you'll have a better chance of forging closer friendships.

2) When to come: Well this is less clear-cut for me. One problem about coming in the second semester is that you arrive in the thick of winter. And being so far North, winter lasts for an unusually long time in Edinburgh. This makes going out and exploring the city a bit of a drag - during term time, I spent most of the free periods I had in between classes shut up indoors or going to places I was familiar with. Getting lost in a strange neighbourhood in the wintery cold is not an inviting prospect.

In fact, it's only recently (after Spring break) that I've been really out and about Edinburgh, and discovering all its fascinating nooks and crannies - it's not an exaggeration to say that the weather is a huge deciding factor when venturing out.

At the same time however, coming in the second semester means you get to experience a three-week long spring break, and in my case, 2 examinations spread out over 5 weeks. This is an impossible luxury in Singaporean universities where term time is hectic to put it very mildly.

I would think that most of my fellow students from Singapore would be extremely keen to incorporate some continental tour when on exchange in the UK. If so, it's a good idea to come in the second semester - you have loads more free time on your hands once lessons end in late March. And spring (I feel) is really the nicest time to travel - not too hot, not too cold and flowers will be in bloom. Just perfect :)

But if you have the option, you might want to consider a full-year exchange...although you might have a lot of catching up to do once you're back. The average workload per semester here is the equivalent of 3 courses. Back in NUS, it's 5 and some people choose to do 6 or 7. So bridging this discrepancy might be an issue, especially if you want to graduate on time.

3) Surviving and Enjoying Winter: However even if you do come in the winter like me, I'd advise you not to coop yourself indoors too much even though it's tempting to!

At the same time, I don't encourage you to put yourself at the mercy of the elements in the spirit of 'fun' - especially if you're more used to tropical climes and need time to adjust. In retrospect, I find it a little funny that my friends and I decided to do a whole bunch of outdoorsy things in the bitter cold of January - including the visit to Edinburgh castle, trekking in Roslin and walking around Glasgow.

It's tempting to get the exciting things out of the way as soon as possible, to make time for...other exciting things outside of Scotland/the UK. But after coming close to frostbite in several of our little winter 'jaunts' (Dunfermline and Roslin come to mind), I'd say it's not a bad idea to slow things down. Shift the more outdoor-oriented activities to spring-time - there's really no rush...unless you're talking about winter sports and snow fights.

But apart from that, you might want to use winter to check out nice cafes, pubs, shops, galleries and other indoorsy, chill-out spots. How about visiting a heated outdoor pool for instance? Or curling up in the filmhouse's small, intimate theatres for a good indie flick? Sampling a hot soup at Henderson's little vegetarian empire over at Hanover Street? Sprawling on the gigantic bed at the Brass Monkey pub with a beer in hand? Checking out various live music venues in town?

There are possibilities even in winter - don't let the weather restrict you too much. And at the same time, don't fight it; work with it and plan appropriate activities/ itineries to get the most out of your time.

Okay I hope I don't sound naggy! Will upload more thoughts about leaving and my exchange experience when they come to me!

DONE!

2009-05-22T10:44:00.000-07:00

I'm finally done with all my exams!!! I'm so happy and relieved that it's over :)

Other students celebrated today by throwing flour at each other outside the examination hall.

It feels nice to have no commitments or projects on the horizon. Not that I was extremely preoccupied with exams in the past 2 weeks, but they were certainly a niggling worry at the back of my mind. I'm free, free, free!!

Took a rather long walk today to relax and "de-examinify" myself - walked to Lothian Road; caught a film at the filmhouse; had my first Northern Chinese meal here at Morrison Street; strolled down the Union Canal; had a fruit smoothie at Bruntsfield; got lost at Marchmount; got myself back to Pollock 6 hours later! An exhausting end to my day.

Shall consider grabbing dinner (my feet still hurt), and will offload a backlog of blog entries after that. See you world.

Breakin' Conventions, 190509

2009-05-20T10:04:00.000-07:00

Took a break from revision and went for Breakin' Convention last night - described by the organizers as an 'international festival of hip hop dance theatre,' Breakin' Convention sees 6 different hip-hop acts touring the UK this month - half are comprised of local performers, and the other 3 are international ones hailing from France, South Korea and the US.

I went mainly because it sounded like it might be interesting - hip hop theatre? That's something new. You don't often see popping and locking in such classy, formal settings. I had to see it for myself.

Pre-performance entertainment occured in the foyer, and included an open stage for local breakdancers to show off their moves. Really entertaining, especially after boys in the audience as young as 8 or 9 joined in the fun!

Presenting El Diaz - one of the break-dancers entertaining the floor before the show started. He's really fit.

Performer and emcee Tony Thrills taking the stage just before the show started proper. He's really good.

A kid getting in on the action. He couldn't have been older than 11!

The show started promptly at 7.30pm, and was emceed by artistic director, Jonzi D and one of the performers, Tony Thrills of Random Aspekts. Overall impressions of the show: wasn't impressed with a couple of the acts, but was totally and stupendously floored by some. Ultimately however, the stereotypes I had involving baggy man-shirts and flashy bling were completely smashed and I came out with a greater appreciation of how versatile hip hop as a dance form can be.

Even if I didn't like all the performances, I have to say it was a very carefully chosen line-up which demonstrated a great diversity of styles. The local act which stood out was Random Aspekts, and its highly entertaining and equally charged dance narrative which was an instant crowd-pleaser. Sin Cru delivered a rather confusing but nevertheless, bold experimental attempt to marry hip hop with modern/contemporary dance and live dialogue - it was hip hop gone avant-garde, and judging by the giggles from the audience, not everyone 'got it' (have to admit, I was a bit at sea too). Nevertheless, Sin Cru received very loud applause at the end. I did not expect to see acts interpreting hip hop as a 'serious' art form, so this was certainly very novel.

The surprises continued as the international acts dominated the second half of the performance. I was a little disappointed with the group from the States, however the other two made the 13 pound ticket worth it.

Salah from France is a.m.a.z.i.n.g. His performance was essentially a combination of stand-up comedy, mime and dance, which drew both laughter and gasps of amazement from the audience. He adopts a persona called 'Gluby' for his performance - some kind of child who talks in a high-pitched voice and banters with the audience. It's highly amusing, but also serves to heighten the impact (or shock) when he suddenly breaks out into dance at various parts of his comic routine.

This is an excerpt from my favourite part of his performance: he's dancing with a tissue (seriously). And no, the video was not sped up at certain parts - he really has incredible movement and body control.

The other big highlight of the night was MyoSung, a troop of dancers all the way from South Korea. Theirs was the longest performance, but was the most impressive in my opinion. The choreography was tight and top-notch - imagine break-dancing infused with elements of ballet and Irish river-dancing, set against a soundtrack which includes John Lenon's "Imagine" and a string-plucked version of Pachelbel's Canon. It was sheer eclectic brilliance, and the dancing itself was phenomenal - hats off to the lads from South Korea! They got a well-deserved standing ovation.

Here's just a small sample of their opening dance - incidently, the Kim Il Jung lookalike (complete with bad hair) in the clip is Mr Zino Seol, their choreographer.

A fantastic evening of entertainment, and one which really showed me the breadth and range of Hip hop onstage. Kudos to Breakin' Convention for really...well...breaking conventions.

Migrant Issues in Edinburgh: A Polish Encounter

2009-05-19T08:11:00.001-07:00

One surprise I've had coming to Edinburgh is that I haven't encountered as many Scottish students as I thought I would. If anything, most of my classmates and the people I bump into in Pollock Halls (judging by their accents) are English. There is also a fairly sizeable international population, with many students hailing from Asia.

Despite its relatively small size, Edinburgh is commonly referred to as a global and cosmopolitan city. Curious to know more, I spent my morning yesterday searching online for information on the ethnic composition of Scotland's capital. The most recent population census I could find was dated in 2001, which listed the largest non-White ethnic minorities as Chinese, Indian and Pakistani. Click here to find out a little more.

However my little internet search also threw up scores of news articles in more recent years dealing with the phenomenal influx of Polish migrants into Scotland. It seems immigration numbers have been on the rise ever since Poland joined the EU in 2004.

Even if you're not keeping up with the news, you can definitely feel the Polish presence in Edinburgh, and it's contentious place with (some) Scots - whether it be through the parodic portrayals of Polish migrants at comedy clubs, or the offhand remarks made in guidebooks about nice Polish delis springing up in Leith despite general 'complaints' about immigrants. Skimming through some of these articles yesterday helped confirm and clarify my vague sense of there being a sizeable migrant community viewed in ambivalent terms by the locals.

Some articles I bookmarked can be found here and here. In particular, I like reading the comments posted in response to the articles - even though some of them are not the most coherent or PC, they give a sense of the opinion on the ground which is usually at variance with what's officially reported.

Something intriguing I notice is the frequent distinction drawn between industrious and hardworking Poles, and the 'lazy,' 'idle' Scots who won't do menial jobs - how far are these stereotypes true though? Are they fair and useful distinctions to make, and on what basis do they rest?

So after getting my fill of news, I headed down on impulse to Leith Walk that same afternoon - not for window shopping this time, but to try and find first-hand evidence of the Polish community in Edinburgh. I've previously mentioned how the numerous ethnic eateries in Leith really express Edinburgh's diverse population - so with that in mind, I revisited the area keeping a curious eye out for a specifically Polish presence.

Stepping out of bus 14 on Leith Walk, it didn't take me long to bump into my first few Polish outposts in Edinburgh. Polish supermarkets like Polski Smak and Deli Polonia are not particularly large, but are nevertheless quite visible along the stretch. Had fun poking around both stores (though Deli Polonia is larger and has more things to see) - the sheer range of imported products really makes you feel like you've been transplanted to Warsaw or something. It's almost jarring to realize that Marks and Spencer - bastion of quintessential British-ness - is a mere 15-minute walk away.

I enjoyed just checking out the foodstuff in Deli Polonia - everything from the vats of pickled gherkins, to the sausages to the packets of ready-made pierogi (traditional Slavic dumplings) was quite novel. I broke in my virgin Polish palette with a gigantic poppy-seed roll, purchased at the Deli for just 0.75pence. Not quite my favourite snack I think, but interesting to try.

Ended up with a late lunch at Bigos on Leith walk - named after the national dish of Poland! This was my first time trying Polish food, so I don't have any way of judging if the dishes were 'good,' 'bad' or '(in)authentic.' However it was certainly quite cheap (7 pounds, 2 courses). It was not exactly filling, the main ingredient in both courses being vegetables, however the meal was quite tasty and satisfying. The service was also friendly and exceedingly polite, despite the rather alarming-looking bear skin rug on the wall.

I had a vegetable soup for starters which was nice and warm - perfect, as the weather outside was stormy.

And I also ordered Bigos (a cabbage stew) for my main. The menu advertises this as a sauerkraut stew with various meats mixed in with red wine. However it's really more cabbage than anything else - I was definitely expecting more meat than what was on the plate. However, I generally like sauerkraut, so not too many complaints there. It was pretty tasty as well.

Bigos is a nice, cosy place to curl up over a hot meal. They do other 'traditional' Polish dishes as well, in addition to a large selection of more generic pizzas and snacks.

I'm glad I made the trip down to Leith. Food's always a nice introduction to a different culture, whilst keeping you happy, filled and nourished. It was also nice to glimpse hints of a kind of community spirit in the stores I visited - apart from the food, stacks of free magazines in Polish sit next to the counter of Deli Polonia, presumbly aimed at Polish migrants. Store-owners also chat freely with their customers in Polish, whilst handing them fresh rolls of artisan breads - normal Scottish bread is an abomination to them apparently.

It would certainly be interesting to probe the migrant experience in Edinburgh more deeply. The articles I read about qualified Polish economists and accountants taking up jobs as chamber-maids and chippie shop assistants in Scotland disturbed me a little. It also seems to bear uncomfortable parallels with the situation of some migrant labourers in Singapore.

Perhaps I ought to take a more active interest in migrant welfare and issues when I get home. In the meantime, this has given me a new perspective of Edinburgh; it's not just a 'Scottish' city, but one that is becoming increasingly diverse, and struggling to negotiate that diversity.

On a more personal note, this is a timely reminder for myself that Edinburgh's not just a place for me to enjoy indiscriminately (a temptation when on exchange, very guilty as charged). It's also a society with its own set of problems, and I should at least try and acquaint myself with them having lived here for half a year.

Another Secret: Edinburgh Farmer's Market

2009-05-16T09:31:00.000-07:00

In London, street markets selling anything from antiques to clothing to agricultural produce are almost de rigeur. The Portobello and Camden markets are famous tourist pit-stops in their own right, and see thronging crowds on weekends.

So that got me thinking: surely Edinburgh must have some markets of its own?

A quick search on google earlier this week threw up the Edinburgh Farmer's Market which occurs (impressively), every Saturday from 9am - 2pm. Local farmers converge at Castle Terrace, under the imposing shadow of the Edinburgh castle selling nothing but the freshest and finest specimens of Scottish produce.

Forcing myself out of bed at 9am (early for me), I took a brisk walk to the Castle Terrace. Upon arrival, I spied a row of cheerful umbrella-ed stalls, each bearing the name of the farmer/producer and the wares on sale.

This is an excellent place to pick up fresh groceries whilst ensuring your money goes right back to local producers. Some products you can get at the market include organic beers, free-range eggs, fruits and veges, artisan breads and chocolates, honey, a selection of meats, and even fresh seafood from the Isle of Arran. The stallholders are lovely, and there's a great camaraderie between them and the regulars who come armed with large grocery bags and little shopping trolleys.

The market is not very large, but you can just take your time to browse and soak in the atmosphere. A tip: come on an empty stomach. There's tons of food available at the market, and most of it is freshly cooked or prepared in front of you.

I picked up an Ostrich meat burger, simply because it sounded so exotic! Not too bad but a bit dry and not as juicy as I thought. I would recommend you try out the Aberdeen Angus Burger if it's available, simply because it looked and smelt so good. If however, you're still inclined toward the unconventional, try the Buffalo meat burger. It's whipped up personally by a rather photogenic young farmer from West Fife - who says farmers have to look old and weather-beaten? Hehe.

Also finally managed to try Stoats Porridge! The mobile Stoats Porridge Bar sets up shop at the Farmer's Market, and by the looks of it, is a smash hit with visitors. They do porridge with a variety of toppings, ranging from just plain brown sugar, to a selection of choice fruits and maple syrup. The most popular recipe is the 'Cranachan' which is porridge accompanied by honey, single cream, toasted sweet oats and topped with fresh Scottish raspberries.

The Cranachan, 3 pounds

This is pure comfort food - warm, humble and totally homely. Something your granny would've served you in bed on those cold dreary days.

So whether you're a foodie, or into supporting local farmers, or just curious, I recommend you definitely check out the farmer's market on a Saturday. Go early before all the good stuff is gone, grab a tasty burger, a soup or a rhubarb pie, and munch slowly as you do your rounds. It's worth waking up a little early for!

Graffiti in Edinburgh?

2009-05-15T10:09:00.000-07:00

A quick answer to the title of this post is: Not a whole lot. As far as graffiti is concerned, the buildings and walls in Edinburgh (especially the city centre) are generally quite 'clean.'

However a good place to glimpse some rare street art would be along the footpath at Potterow, near the University of Edinburgh. I believe it's the only public wall in the city centre where graffiti art is legal, and hence presumably, easier to control and regulate.

Taken on a fine afternoon at Potterow.

Curious to find more examples of such art, I was led to the Henderson Gallery this afternoon. There, I acquainted myself with Edinburgh's answer to Banksy - local graffiti artist, Elph.

Henderson's is a small contemporary art gallery on Thistle Street which is currently hosting an exhibition of Elph's works in conjunction with the 2009 Scotland Homecoming celebrations. Fittingly, the exhibition chronicles Elph's engagement with Scotland's best known son (and Homecoming '09 icon) - Robert Burns.

Lest Bogles Catch them Unawares: Elph vs Burns is currently running till June 6. It's a small collection, but the bright, idiosyncratic images which interpret Burns and his works were just what I needed to cheer me up on an otherwise dreary Friday afternoon (the weather was horrendous).

I have never seen Elph's works on the streets, but it looks like he doesn't just rely on spray paints for his gallery works. Other mediums are incorporated including acrylic paint, watercolours and markers. Henderson's is also displaying (and selling) a large selection of Elph's sketches done in pencil and ink.

I don't ever think I've seen a graffiti artist featured in a gallery before, so this was certainly something new. I really liked how some of Elph's compositions continue outside of the canvas and onto the gallery walls themselves! The pictures consequently don't remain "within" any borders but actually manage to interact with each other, and with the gallery space itself.

You can view pictures of the exhibition here!

Elsewhere in Edinburgh, yet another graffiti artist Derm is exhibiting a series of mixed media works. Derm's Focal Range is currently housed in Pageant - a menswear store tucked away in Lauriston Street (yet another multi-purpose space!) Focal Range explores the prevalence of CCTV cameras in modern society. I was a bit underwhelmed by the exhibition personally, but if you're in the area you might as well pop in to check it out. The staff are good fun, and really friendly.

Have probably barely scratched the surface of what I'm sure is a thriving subculture of street art in Scotland. But I'm glad that I've at least wet my toes.

At the same time, I wonder if there are any tensions when graffiti - a medium so associated with the anti-establishment - becomes housed in institutionalized spaces like galleries. On one hand, I suppose it's reflective of how street art is no longer dismissed as 'vandalism,' but is being appreciated for its aesthetic qualities.

On the other hand, containing graffiti within mainstream/socially sanctioned spaces is also a rather sly way to "defang" it of its more incendiary potential as a medium of counter-cultural expression. I wonder if that's necessarily a good thing.

More questions to ponder on. In the meantime, I will also keep my eyes peeled for examples of street art in their natural, original setting - on the streets themselves! Just hope I get to them before the Edinburgh City Council cleans them off.

A Single Regret? On Charity Shops in Edinburgh

2009-05-14T17:16:00.001-07:00

Something I wish I had looked into earlier on in my exchange: I wish I had more actively explored opportunities for volunteerism within Edinburgh.

In particular, as an avid window shopper and browser, I've been quite impressed by the concept of charity shops in the UK. Basically these shops are run by charities, and form part of their fund-raising programme. Typically, the charity shop accepts second-hand donations in kind, which might include anything such as books, old DVDs, clothes and furniture. These items are then organized and categorized by shop volunteers and eventually sold, with all proceeds going toward the charitable cause in question.

The benefits of patronizing charity shops would include, (i) supporting a charitable cause which you might personally be invested in, (ii) benefiting from the reduced prices of quality second-hand goods, (iii) helping to recycle products which might otherwise have gone into the trash.

From Oxfam to Shelter to Barnados to PDSA, there are charity stores galore in the Clerk Street/Nicolson Street area. From time to time, I've even popped into some of them to poke around. The products on sale are generally in very good condition despite being second-hand - some clothes are brand new, and carry big-store tags like Marks and Spencer's. I've been quite pleased with my finds thus far!

Some of my charity finds in the past month: Sling bag from Marie Curie Cancer Cure (I think), £3. Checked shirt from Shelter, £4.

So now on hindsight, I wish I had spotted opportunities to volunteer within these stores which I've come to admire...perhaps in Shelter (fighting homelessness) or Baranados (believe in children!) Sadly the commitment period required from store volunteers is usually a couple of months - definitely out of the question since I only have 16 more days there!

Well, if you're coming to Edinburgh on an exchange and are looking for ways to give back to the community, do consider popping by one of these charity stores - whether as a buyer, or as a volunteer. For more information check out http://www.changeworks.org.uk/content.php?linkid=347 for a map of all the charity stores within Edinburgh! :) The individual charities would also have their own websites if you want more specific information.

A Brief Note on Indie Music Stores in Edinburgh

2009-05-14T11:03:00.001-07:00

(I use 'indie' in the sense of 'Independent,' as opposed to the genre and sub-culture associated with the term.)

So I am not a music junkie at all. I have an ipod but it is the least used thing I own. I haven't followed radio in years, and what little knowledge I have is shamelessly confined to Top 40.

That said, I popped into several Indie music stores today just to check out what was on offer beyond HMV.

Underground Solu'shn on Cockburn Street. Avalanche Records is also on the same street, and Ripping Records is just a stone's throw away on South Bridge Road.

Vinyl Villains, situated on Elm Row along Leith Walk.

Some observations I made:

1. Vinyl Villains on Elm Row doesn't just do CDs. It also has a huge selection of old vinyl records featuring artists like ACDC, Metallica, Electric Light Orchestra etc etc...

Closer to the recent past, Vinyl Villains also has a shelf full of second-hand cassette tapes dating back to the days when Prince was still known as Prince! And if that's not enough of a retro-spin for you, they even have a selection of old VHS tapes. Ah the nostalgia!

2. If you want a taste of the local Indie music scene, Avalanche Records on Cockburn Street has a prominently marked out section of Scottish bands. Other activities run by Avalanche include the newly launched 'album club,' whereby the store will send subscribers a specially-picked album each month along with additional material such as record label freebies and news of exclusive offers etc.

I've heard of such a concept before being applied to other areas like magazine subscriptions and even customized t-shirts: it sounds like an interesting idea, and I think it's kind of fun that you won't know what product to expect in your mail!

3. On the other hand, if it's live gigs you're after, make Ripping Records on Southbridge your first stop in town. In addition to CDs, Ripping Records also sells tickets for upcoming acts in Scotland - ie: effectively, Edinburgh and Glasgow. Check out the chalkboard on their counter for upcoming acts in the months to come - it's a pretty extensive list :)

Or view it online at http://www.rippingrecords.com/

Oasis and Coldplay/Jay Z are coming up in the summer months!!

4. Unlike the other record shops I visited, Underground Solu'shn (Cockburn street) seems to cater specifically to DJs. There's a large selection of House and Techno vinyl records, in addition to other DJ accessories like sound mixers which line the walls.

5. And finally, if you're new in town and wondering where are the best places to club or to catch some live music, make any independent record shop your first port-of-call. I've realized that they are one of the best sources of information about music and nightlife in general.

There's Ripping Records' gig list, but all the other record shops I visited also stock flyers and promotional material for some of the hottest clubs in town, and the various gigs and DJs they're hosting.

Some materials I picked up today.

Most of these shops would also carry various lifestyle magazines, in addition to publications which deal more specifically with the music scene in Scotland or the United Kingdom. Some of these are also free including The Fly. So you can just grab one to go, and pour over it later if you wish to find out more about up-and-coming artists and live concerts occuring around the UK.

So happy browsin'! :)

Leith Walk and Broughton Street: Retail Picks

2009-05-14T10:00:00.000-07:00

I would definitely recommend the stretch along Broughton Street and Leith Walk as food strips (see earlier entry), however there are a clutch of interesting stores as well ranging from independent boutiques to second-hand bookstores. Here were my top 3 favourite browsing experiences today:

1. Threadbare, Broughton Street

You would have thought, from the last few entries, that I'd have exhausted my appetite for Vintage. I thought I had, until I chanced upon Threadbare.

Walking through Threadbare is a perilous activity: the aisles are so narrow you can barely walk through. The racks are bursting with clothes which continually threaten to encroach onto the already claustrophic walking space.

This is a shop where you really have to get down and dirty, sifting through the straining mass of fabric, and contorting your body into awkward positions to peer behind those mannequin torsos scattered around. I found the most gorgeous dress ever quite by accident - it was hanging off an antique mirror which was in turn obscured by a rack of clothes. I was later told that the dress was a new arrival (just in yesterday!) It was truly pretty - red rose-print on a white background. Sadly, too big for me!

The cluttered, creche-like space is presided over by a loveable, helpful lady who gives off an air of slight kookiness. When I arrived she was in the middle of sorting out her jewelry collection at the counter, which was in her words, 'in a mess.' Just before I left, I noticed she had settled for arranging them in order of progressive 'bling-ness' - shiniest on the left.

Threadbare is a wee bit pricier than Armstrong's I think, but excellent for those shopaholics who love the thrill of scouring through a confusing morass of clothes for that perfect 'find.' Worth a look-see.

2. Joey D, Broughton Street

If Dr Frankenstein were in the fashion business, he'd have set up his laboratory in Joey D. This is a literally fashion factory - and indeed, there seems to be a workshop at the back where you can see staff getting down on their knees and hacking away at fabric.

Old clothes are deconstructed and given new life in Joey D's eclectic creations. A simple denim skirt is anything but 'simple' - rather it's a patische of different strips of coloured denim, and some leftover vintage scraps which are sewn together in Frankenstein fashion, to constitute a new skirt. There are also Joey D's men's shirts (one pictured above) which resemble something Two-Face from the Batman series would wear. I also stood for quite a while contemplating a Joey D bustier halter top, which went round the mannequin's neck with nothing more than a recycled leather belt strap.

If loud reanimated fashion is your thing, you should probably stop by Joey D. Not entirely my cup of tea, but I'd recommend it simply because it's so unusual and different - for me anyways.

3. McNaughtan's Bookshop, Haddington Place
(along Leith Walk)

A must-see in Edinburgh if you're into second-hand, antiquarian books. This is a quiet, dignified establishment, which is (random as this sounds) exceedingly well designed and presented. Love the continuous shelves which run all across the shop, and end up enclosing little private niche-like areas with chairs - perfect to sit down and browse through a nice, good book.

The amount of books is quite staggering, and they generally go at reasonable prices. I never thought I would open another Thomas Hardy book after one year of JC with the thoroughly revolting Clym Yeobright and Eustacia Vye. However I couldn't resist flipping through The Return of the Native in McNaughtan's. It was in excellent condition, and sheathed in its own book box. The novel was also illustrated with exquisite wood print engravings. And all that for 10 pounds.

Also spied plenty of art history books, the complete 48-volume set of Walter Scott's Waverley novels (at 225pounds), and 19th-century editions of Jean Froissart's Chronicles. Book lovers might go a little crazy in here.

Leith Walk and Broughton Street: Soul Food

2009-05-14T08:34:00.001-07:00

Walked around the edge of the New Town today, focusing on Broughton Street and Leith Walk. So many things to see! So many things to talk about. It makes sense however, to start with an issue of primal concern: Food.

There are tons of ethnic food restaurants along Leith Walk including Bangladeshi, Polish, Cantonese, Punjabi and Italian eateries. Take your pick. Broughton street also plays host to a wide range of pubs, cafes and delis including Artisan Roast, which I hear has one of the best coffees in town, and Urban Angel, which is apparently the place for brunch in the New Town.

I was intending to head down to The Fish Bar at Montgomery Street which reportedly has one of the best fish & chips in Edinburgh - you do not argue with the recommendation of a cab driver. Eventually however, I took a tiny detour off Broughton Street to Barony Street, after spying this:

The Broughton Deli and Cafe is tucked away in a quiet corner. Press clippings are pasted on the window, and practically ooze praise for the deli's selection of crepes and freshly made foods. There was however, another motivation to enter: the nice lady I'd met yesterday at the Red Door Gallery mentioned that she worked here part-time, and urged me to come. "It's really as organic as you can get!" She gushed whilst handing me my Local's Guide to Edinburgh.

So since it was right in front of me - why not?

The deli has a take-away and sit-down menu. In addition to sandwiches and soups, they do sweet and savoury crepes. The latter are stuffed with a selection of deli fillings which look really mouth-watering. In the end, I decided to get something sweet, and settled for one of their freshly baked cakes. A Victorian Sponge with Strawberries and Vanilla cream it was.

I wish I had taken a picture of the cake before I tucked into it, because it was simply the most amazing strawberry cake I've ever had! Sweet strawberries with a little bit of a sharp tanginess to balance out the slight heaviness of the cream. And the cake itself was good - light and fluffy. Perfect dessert to go with a pot of hot tea!

The cafe's sitting area is quite small so you might want to come early to grab a place. It's a cheerful set-up overall - a bright, airy room with high ceilings and smallish tables covered in red polka-dotted table cloths. The atmosphere is matched by friendly and chirpy service. Great for an afternoon out with your girlfriends. I highly recommend!

If on the otherhand, you're on the look out for groceries, consider popping into Real Foods along Broughton Street. They are a supermarket specializing in organic, fair-trade and vegetarian foods, in addition to other products.

It's nice to just browse through the shelves even if you aren't sure of what to buy. They do a lot of organic chocolate including a large shelf of colourfully wrapped slabs from Green & Blacks. Mmmm. I was also very intrigued by their 'Nomato' Ketchup which is ketchup made without tomatoes!

Real Foods also stocks non-edibles including eco-friendly washing liquids, and an extensive selection of Burt's Bees products which I was so pleased to see! I don't really recall seeing any stores in Singapore which have the Burt's Bees range...I've only ever managed to find the lip balm, but perhaps I wasn't looking hard enough...

So to wrap up, I shall slyly throw in another pick, but this one is related not to food, but quite a different primal urge.

How refreshing to see a sex shop which doesn't alienate women but welcomes them with scented votive candles to boot. Organic Pleasures is dedicated solely to women and their, ah, orgasmic needs! Heehee. It's not hidden away by tinted windows, nor is it plastered with sleazy images. The interior of the shop is tasteful and refined, almost a little muted. Anybody can freely walk in and the first thing you'll see are rather innocuous bath products including baby massage oils (for new mothers). They also sell corsets, lingerie, accessories like silk scarves and slips, and a line of female sex toys.

What is most intriguing however, is their shop's philosophy which affirms a dedication to providing good "eco-luxe" products which are "totally organic" and "non-toxic." I had no idea such products could be toxic or in any way dangerous. And I also had no idea that the whole 'organic' craze in shopping had spread right up to erotic shops! Well, you learn something new everyday I suppose.

If you've ever been curious about what lurks within the depths of those shady XXX shops which seem dominated by men or conjoined couples, Organic Pleasures will be a nice change. You can browse openly and freely, without furtively looking over your shoulder. The staff are also friendly and quietly unobtrusive. Makes for an entertaining browse!

Back to Grassmarket: Discovering a Retail Paradise

2009-05-13T08:05:00.000-07:00

It's official. Move over temples of High street fashion on Princes Street. Bow your heads in shame tourist tats along the Royal Mile. I have crowned the Grassmarket area my new favourite shoppin' & browsin' spot in Edinburgh!

This marks my second trip back to the Grassmarket area in a week. While I scoured the adjoining Westport street for independent vintage finds on Sunday, this time I focused on Grassmarket itself, in addition to making little detours off to West Bow, Victoria Street and Candlemaker row. In sum: bigger and better vintage, awesome boutiques, antique shops, trendy bistros, and too-hip art book stores.

Sampled quite a few shops on my walkabout, and here are my top picks for retail fiends.

1. Armstrong's, 83 Grassmarket

Barnados Vintage along West Bow, is a sweet vintage charity store which uses all proceeds to aid young children and their families. However, it simply cannot compare to the behemoth just across the street on Grassmarket: Armstrong's is the grand dame of Vintage fashion and it's not hard to see why. It is a giant emporium stacked floor to ceiling with an assortment of vintage costumes, accessories, jewelry and day-to-day wear which is simply unbeatable.

There are pieces which are clearly intended for the stage (or a fancy-dress party): ornate mandarin-collared tunics, neon pink frilly showgirl pieces, ostentatious tartan kilts, and even 1970s-esque wigs drip off the racks. There is even a little corner dedicated to Vintage wedding dresses, all creamy white and flouncy.

If your tastes are less kitsch, head toward the back of the store and you'll find a large selection of daily wear (men's and women's), which are indeed, very wearable and at very reasonable prices to boot. I spied adorable dresses for around 15 pounds, and strings of faux pearls at just a pound.

I was very tempted by a grey checked top, with a delicate lace inner-lining. But quite sadly, washing instructions stipulated dry cleaning only. Not too practical in Singapore's sweat-inducing weather - sigh.

The grey checked top - 12 pounds

Swinging mini-skirt - five pounds.

So cute! Printed pussy-bow dress on mannequin. Forgot the price.

So definitely make Armstrong's a must-see when going on your retail rounds. It's not just a store. It's an institution.

They also have another smaller outlet along Clerk Street, and a spin-off at Teviot Place called Rusty Zip.

2. Red Door Gallery and Analogue,
42 Victoria Street and 102 West Bow respectively

Artsy bookstores which also double up as small gallery spaces. Analogue is a sparsely designed shop which stocks books pertaining to fashion, design and writing/publishing. Red Door has a quirky assortment of house-hold knick knacks, cards, planners and stationery including 'Film Diaries' by Otsu, with thoughtful blanks labelled 'Movie title,' 'Director,' 'Producer' and 'Analysis/Critique/Notes.' Perfect for that film student or movie buff!

Picked up The Locals' Guide to Edinburgh while at the Red Door and flipped through it briefly over lunch. It's given me new ideas about where to go and what to do in the next few days! Love how the places and activities featured come straight from native Edinburgh-ers, including students, taxi drivers and local DJs. The book is also lovingly designed and is a pretty companion to carry around in your handbag.

3. Swish and Joe
Somewhere along Victoria St, and Greyfriars place respectively

Swish is a tad pricy, but it stocks totally cute dresses with little, idiosyncratic twists. Had fun browsing even though the 40 - 60 pound price tags were out of my reach.

Joe features colourful jewelry and knick-knacks, including a gorgeous selection of bags against the wall which I simply loved.

In the course of my shopping trip, I've been amazed at the retail geography of Edinburgh. In addition to the usual mass chains along Princes Street, and the designer labels on Multrees Walk, I've also discovered so many cheap charity shops and independent boutiques. The latter in particular, are also really active in promoting local designers - drawn perhaps, from the nearby arts college on Lauriston place.

There is also a large emphasis on 'ethical' shopping - vintage shops invariably remind shoppers of the environmental benefits of buying second-hand, and the profusion of charity shops (like Barnados) also allow shoppers guilt-free retail trips as they know their money will go toward charitable causes. And of course, 'fairtrade' is a sacrosanct word which earns approving nods from consumers.

Overall a very different shopping and browsing experience compared to Singapore. Shoppers here seem more conscious about where and how they want to spend their dollar.

Food Finds: Curry in a Mosque & Desserts at a Bohemian Cafe

2009-05-12T14:50:00.001-07:00

I find it a little surprising that I managed to spend 4 hours in the library today finishing some readings for my Medieval History course. This harkens back to term time, during that dreaded 4-hour interval between my classes. I mostly passed the time cloistered up in the library because the winter weather killed any desire to venture out.

I sandwiched two eating trips between my 4-hour reading marathon. I'm determined to put to the test my current bland perception of food in the UK (outside of London). I'm happy to say that a possible conversion *might* be underway...but we'll see what the following days /weeks bring!

In the meantime, very happy to have sussed out two, relatively inexpensive food stops just a stone's throw away from campus.

First up was lunch at The Mosque Kitchen.

Yes it is literally a mosque, and you can't miss the towering minaret if you're walking along or around Potterow. Don't feel intimidated or uncomfortable if you're not there to worship; just head to the back of the compound and you'll find a cavernous tented dining area. There is a menu of halal curries, kebabs and vegetarian dishes for as low as 3 quid which is really a bargain in Edinburgh.

I ordered a chicken curry rice for 3 pound 50. You get a pretty substantial mound of steaming, fragrant basmati rice and a generous dollop of chicken curry. This meal also lasted me all the way to dinner-time, and even then I was still a little full - they aren't stingy with the rice.

As for the gravy, it is quite mild - spice fans may be disappointed. However the chicken meat is moist, juicy and satisfying. It is also possible to combine the meat with other side dishes I believe, and still fork out about 5 pounds which is relatively good value.

Of course you have to realize that the plastic cutlery, self-service and no-frills dining (outdoor seating, communal tables, plastic chairs) also contribute to the low price. But nevertheless still worth a trip I feel, if you want decent, reasonably-priced food. They also have a vegetarian menu for those interested.

Cheap and good - it's no wonder I saw so many students patronizing the place. But they weren't the only ones either!

So do come down sometime if you're on the look-out for budget-friendly and healthy-sized portions. All your money also goes straight to the Mosque and its various religious/community activities. Doesn't that make you feel good?

Balanced my savoury encounter at the Mosque Kitchen for something sweeter and lighter at The Forest which online 'zines like The Skinny had been raving about. The Forest is located along Bristo Square.

This is certainly one of the most unusual places I've stepped into. The cafe is a dingy-looking but kooky hideaway full of mismatched, second-hand tables and chairs. Food-wise, I just ordered a fruitjuice and brownie (still full of curry) which was not fantastic. The brownie was a bit hard and sweet in a very cloying sort of way. However their regular dishes might be better - they do a wide range of vegetarian meals.

What stands out about this place though, is really...the place itself. The Forest is a non-profit set-up run by volunteers - which might explain the average food. It not only houses a cafe at the back with a stage for live gigs, but also a surprising amount of space in the front, encompassing two whole rooms - one seems to be an extension of the cafe with an assortment of squashy little sofas huddled around small tables. The other room is currently an empty, white-washed space which appears to have multiple uses based on the owner's whims - workshops and exhibitions have been held at The Forest before so I'm assuming that's what the extra space is utilized as.

There are also plenty of random flyers stuck up on the walls advertising everything, including flats for rent. The Forest also seems to have a very liberal policy toward supporting local musicians - any band wishing to play at The Forest can just call ahead to book. Aspiring artists are also allowed to sell their CDs and distribute promotional material to the crowd. A list of gigs for the week is written on a chalkboard within the cafe area. Apart from live bands however the programme also includes other things like film screenings, and the rather unusual sounding "drunken" jazz/opera.

The people themselves also give The Forest a rather eccentric, quirky vibe. Sitting in the cafe, I got the distinct air of being temporally displaced to an earlier era as androgynous hippy-like characters sporting guitars sailed in and were greeted by effusive hugs from the smiling staff. The music was momentarily paused as a proud member of staff announced that 'David,' who had just arrived, had successfully completed his final year exams - news that was greeted by loud applause from the cafe-goers.

You get a very laidback, chilled out vibe at The Forest - anything seems to go here. Just sit back, relax in their poofy sofas, and enjoy the (rather loud) music. You could probably vegetate there for hours, and never feel pressured to leave or order anything. Definitely worth checking out just for the unusual atmosphere.

Spread the Word: Book-hunting in Edinburgh

2009-05-11T09:31:00.000-07:00

Waterstones, Blackwells, Borders, WH Smith? Pfft. So mainstream.

At least, that's what Word Power would have you think. This indie bookstore is situated right next to campus, along West Nicolson street. It prides itself on supporting young writers and small publication houses, in addition to stocking a range of thought-provoking, "alternative" material.

I was greeted by a large but docile dog upon entering Word Power this afternoon. It followed me obediently for a few minutes as I checked out the shelves which were labelled thematically: 'Politics,' 'Sociology,' 'Feminism,' 'Sustainable living,' 'Travel,' 'Environment'...you get the picture. There is also an adjacent room stocking fiction, but I mainly confined myself to the non-fiction section.

Some of the titles are quite fascinating, and I do urge you to go down and just browse at your leisure. I lingered quite a bit at the Feminism section, reading blurbs of various books which chronicled the global sex trade in devastating detail. Moving on to the Sustainable Living/Environment section, I finally learnt that Rough Guides doesn't focus only on travel books (yes, call me ignorant). They also produce guides on a whole range of subjects including Rough Guides to Ethical Living, Ethical Shopping and Climate Change, which I was interested to see.

Similarly, the Travel section doesn't just stock your usual assortment of guidebooks, but also has a selection of travelogues and literature pertaining to responsible tourism.

Its manifesto may be a bit strident for some, but Word Power truly is a welcome balance to large chain bookstores which are chock-a-block with the latest 'blockbuster' novel. Well worth a look-see.

On a different note, photography aficionados out there might do well to linger along Cockburn street which houses both a specialist gallery and bookstore.

Entering the Stills Gallery, you'd be forgiven for mistaking it as yet another too-posh, White Cube set-up. What's not immediately apparent is this is not just a gallery devoted to photography, but a virtual resource centre for all photographers and photography enthusiasts. The gallery itself is rather small; it's currently devoted to an exhibition of Barbara Probst's works. Once you're done taking in Probst's works, skip on down to the lower or upper levels where you'll find an assortment of facilities including:

A wee reference library dedicated to photography - free and open to all. Just walk-in, no problems

FREE WIFI

Darkrooms, open to the public to use...though I think you have to book ahead

Computer labs

Coffee and tea to nourish you while you wait for your photographs develop...

Hung around in the library and poured through a critical reader on contemporary photography. I have to admit I spent more time looking at the photographs than reading the text! But in any case, I think the entire gallery-cum-resource centre is a great idea, and does show a commitment to nurturing photographic talents within the community. Did I mention that Skills also conducts training workshops and educational programmes? Hats off!

If you need more of a photo fix, head on down to Beyond Words, which is just up the street from Stills.

Beyond Words is a bookshop specializing in photographic books. Beautiful hardcover tomes featuring breath-taking photos on a variety of subjects including the urban architecture of France, panoramic landscapes, Japanese 'gothic Lolitas' and female nudes. Lovely to thumb through.

So shall settle down tonight with my new book from Word Power. Feel pleased with myself! See you world.

Independent Film: The Edinburgh Filmhouse

2009-05-10T15:47:00.000-07:00

So after browsing through vintage fashion and comic books (see earlier entries), I decided to head down somewhere to rest my legs and catch a good film.

If you need a change from formulaic Hollywood blockbusters, I strongly suggest you check in at the Edinburgh Filmhouse. It's an independent cinema with a pretty impressive selection of films. The filmhouse also gets brownie points for its programme's diversity and international breadth; films from Iraq, Tibet and the Czech Republic rest comfortably alongside this month's headlining English-language Cheri, which features Michelle Pfeiffer.

I caught The Class, which is a 2008 French film directed by Laurent Cantet. The trailers all prominently advertised the film's good showing at the Cannes Film Festival (swept the Palme d'Or), so I was curious to see what the fuss was about.

Well I really enjoyed it quite a bit. As you might have inferred from the trailer, it follows "Mr Marin" (or Francois) as he negotiates challenging and often tumultuous relations with his students. The ethnically diverse cast who comprise Francois' class is deliberate, and the film confronts several uncomfortable truths about multiracial France.

In addition to that, the film is also a must-see for teachers and educators; Francois' interactions with his students explore issues pertaining to schooling, authority, punishment and the struggle for mutual respect within the classroom.

I think the best part about The Class is that it doesn't really appear to be a film. Rather, you get the sense that you're watching a documentary unfold. The script is refreshingly simple; the scenes are familiar and true-to-life, and the young cast is convincing with its frank candour.

Best of all, The Class doesn't fall into the rut of its Hollywood counterparts including 'Take the Lead': Francois is no earnest, saintly teacher who plunges himself into 'the ghetto,' and winds up inspiring his jaded students. Francois is far from perfect, and his students are not typical mouthy miscreants. Various nuances unfold onscreen, but 'The Class' avoids moralizing or imposing any didactic message. Instead it raises questions with no conclusive answers.

So I do recommend you catch this! Ticket prices are just over 3 pounds for students, and about 4-ish for adults. Good, thought-provoking entertainment. The Palme d'Or was well-earned.

Deadhead: Comics along Candlemaker Row

2009-05-10T14:27:00.000-07:00

So I had originally intended to visit Word Power - the bookshop stocking Marxist and dissident literature on West Nicolson street. But apparently bookstores that spurn 'mainstream' culture are closed on Sunday afternoons. Or at least, they were shuttered when I arrived at 12.30pm. Oh well!

So I headed down to quite a different kind of bookstore to do some long, serious shelf-browsing: Deadhead Comics.

The title kind of says it all. This discreet shop tucked along Candlemaker row has apparently been serving Edinburgh for a good number of years. And really, it seems the perfect meeting place for devotees of comics and graphic novels. You can almost see them reverently surrounding Deadhead's huge selection of mint comics in sealed sleeves; or gawping at the glossy covers on the latest release shelf.

The lanky guy manning the shop is also Edinburgh's own version of comic book guy: he shuffles awkwardly behind the counter, and generally stares at his computer screen through curtains of long, scraggly hair.

But jokes aside, coming from someone who isn't particularly a fan of comics, this is quite an absorbing place to lose yourself. I went a bit wild looking at the mint editions of Neil Gaiman's Sandman series. I've read the compiled paperback editions, but I've never seen it in its original monthly serial format.

The cover art for all the issues is gorgeous, and at 2.99pounds for each issue I was sorely tempted. But I suspect I would also be very tempted to rip through the protective packaging just to have a read through the comic itself. I can never be a serious comic book collector.

Spent a nice part of mid-day browsing through the rather dusty shelves. Thumbing through X-men comics is somehow very therapeutic on a lazy, overcast Sunday afternoon. The selection seems quite large. Comic fans, you've found your mecca.

Vintage Hunting in Grassmarket

2009-05-10T12:08:00.000-07:00

I have mixed views about Vintage clothing. On the one hand, I think the past can be a great source of unique, one-of-a-kind creations. I also like (selectively) the loud colours and prints on vintage dresses, in addition to the details on jewelry, bags and other accessories!

At the same time, I am distrustful of the almost hallowed, chi-chi cult status Vintage fashion has been given in recent years. Whatever their intentions, you can't deny that 'Vintage,' as a label, is a good way to justify selling old, second-hand clothes at expensive prices. And I also don't think all vintage is necessarily chic. Some of those floral print go-go dresses must be accompanied by a whole lot of attitude and smart accessorizing, lest you end up looking like mouldy curtains.

So as far as I'm concerned, one treads a flimsy line between looking stylishly retro on one hand...and playing dress-up with grandma's discards on the other.

Despite my reservations, I do enjoy sifting through the racks at Vintage stores just to see the colourful, often quirky and occassionally flamboyant creations from an era long gone. The vintage outlets I've seen usually take the form of cosy, little boutiques which make for a pleasantly different shopping experience than the kind you get at Top-shop, Zara and other similar high-end, mass outlets.

Roamed around Westport Street today in the Grassmarket area. Fashion-lovers may be pleased to know that there are several vintage outlets sprinkled in the vicinity. Here are two which I sampled:

1. Herman Brown
151 West Port, Edinburgh

Racks of clothing line either side of this store which stocks "Vintage & Retro to Modern Clothing, Jewelry & Accessories." They've got a selection of totally cute dresses hanging up on the walls as well. Amongst other things, I was quite taken by their selection of gingham frocks. The sad thing about Vintage however, is that being unique and "one of a kind," they don't usually do sizes. So many dresses which I wanted to try on simply did not fit!

However I did take this with me into the dressing room:

So apparently it dates back to the 1960s and has a 'Harrods' label on it! It was cute but pretty plain compared with some of the others on the rack which had more detail - however all too big for me! I also shimmied into a 70's-era black shiny top which wouldn't look out of the place in a club today!

2. Godiva Boutique
9 West Port, Edinburgh

The vintage fashion here is loud, outrageous and screams attention. Think billowing mini skirts resembling multi-coloured stripped circus tents, and polka-dotted mini dresses ending in an explosion of white ruffles at the hems. It's fun, bordering a little on the theatrical. Personally I don't think I would have the guts to pull most of it off!

They also stock a line of jeans called Hi-DEE which was pretty darn attractive - I really coveted the stretch skinny jeans in an absolutely gorgeous shade of fire-engine red. Roar.

But vintage clothing aside, Godiva's Made to Measure line is what really stood out for me. Basically, you choose a plain 'template' dress from their Made to Measure rack and try it on to see the cut. If you like it, you'll get measured up and the store will arrange a consultation session with the designer. You'll be allowed to discuss your specifications for the dress right down to the kind of fabric, any additional details, or minor tweaks you wish to make to the design - say you want the sleeves off or an extra bow at the back etc.

And two weeks later, voila - you get your own customized frock!

The helpful salesgirl informed me that Made to Measure is extremely popular with ladies wanting something a little special for that summer party, or fancy wedding dinner they've been invited to.

This made to order service is not exactly cheap. The dresses range from about 60 to 150 pounds, excluding the fabric and other bells-and-whistles you might want to add.

On the bright side, I guess you can be assured that fashion faux pas will be eliminated with Made to Measure - no chance of you showing up with the same dress as someone else! It'll also fit perfectly since it was made for you and only you in mind. Finally, it's also a rather environmentally-friendly concept; dresses are only made on order and are produced within Edinburgh by local designers, minimizing waste and air miles in the process.

That's fashion with a conscience for you.

The Plan for the Last 22 Days

2009-05-09T15:29:00.000-07:00

Term officially ends on 31st May, and it's possible I'll go home to Singapore after that due in part to popular request (yes Jaesson, you are the sum of the "popular requests").

Whatever the case, it's certain that I only have 22 days left in Edinburgh before I get evicted from my dorm. I have been thinking about how to occupy my time in those precious 22 days - thinking very hard indeed, oh yeesss.

So as it stands, I've more or less exhausted the 'tourist attractions' in Edinburgh - those I'm interested in anyway - and I don't think I want to visit the remainder which don't appeal to me like erh...the Edinburgh Dungeons (tacky, anyone?) Travelling out of Scotland is an option, but frankly I'm getting tired of planning trips, spending hours checking out the cheapest flights, sleeping in crappy hostels and eating equally blah food to save on a couple of Euros :( Yes, I'm spoilt that way.

Don't get me wrong, I loved my spring break, I loved my random day trips and I like exploring new places in general. But sometimes I privately wonder if I'm shortchanging my experience because I don't have enough money and time to fully take in and enjoy a place.

And then there was that whole pseudo-nihilistic moment in Madrid, which was...well a bit of a dampener.

But! In any case, I have made it my unofficial mission in the next 22 days to try and know Edinburgh beyond Frommers, Lonely Planet and Rough Guides.

I want to get into all those kooky stores I've seen on the way to school, but never had the chance to look in.

I want to sample those funky boutique cafes I've heard about, but never got around to visiting. I want to stop hanging around Nicolson Street/the Royal Mile/Princes Street and explore those little side roads and neighbourhoods I've yet to set foot in.

I want to try and glimpse a real, living culture (whatever that may be) as opposed to The 'Culture' with a capital C - the officially managed kind you find in Castles, Churches and yes, as much as I like them, public museums.

Coming from Singapore, I think the curse of settling down too comfortably in a place is that you think about it in two ways: (a) you've lived there all your life, you know everything there is to know about it, or (b) you're going to be there for the rest of your life, you'll eventually get down to checking out this place, or that place...and you never do eventually.

So in the end, you live in a place, but you never step beyond your comfort zone to truly know it inside-out. And I guess that is an ironic result of having to live there - because it's 'home,' you can never see it as something new, shiny and exotic to explore. These qualities all get projected outward, to far distant lands you have yet to encounter...

I am determined to redress this mentality in the time I still have here! So watch out Edinburgh, Jeanne's coming for you.

Spending a Rainy Saturday with JMW Turner

2009-05-09T14:04:00.000-07:00

Awful, awful weather today. It was wet and miserably chilly for most of the afternoon, and venturing out was a really unappealing prospect. However the alternative of staying shut up in my room - which I had already done for the past week while mugging for my Art history exam - was even more distasteful. So between the cloisters and the rain, I chose the latter.

My destination was the National Gallery complex on The Mound, which is currently hosting a blockbuster exhibition, Turner & Italy. As the title suggests, the exhibition documents and celebrates English painter JMW Turner's enduring love affair with Italy, and its influence on his artworks.

Overall I quite enjoyed the exhibition. There are natural crowd pleasers in the form of large oil paintings including Modern Rome - Campo Vaccino, The Fountain of Indolence and Approach to Venice. I love Turner's luminous palatte, and his fixation with portraying light. His oil landscapes are all awash with a beautiful warm glow that simply dazzles.

JMW Turner's "Modern Rome - Campo Vaccino," one of my personal favourites in the exhibition!

In addition to the oil paintings, there are also many watercolour sketches and engravings which deserve closer attention. Turner's watercolour palette and paintbox also make an appearance, lending the exhibition a personal touch!

The works on display also chart Turner's changing style - by approaching the exhibition chronologically, you can see how Turner gradually blurs all figures and lines until they eventually dissolve into amorphous swirls of paint by the final room. Turner replaces solid form with incandescent light, movement and colour - and in so doing, he comes remarkably close to predicting the rise of modern abstract art in the following century.

I never really knew about Turner till coming to Britain, and I must say that this exhibition really allowed me to find out more about his life and his visionary art. Kudos to the National Gallery for staging this!

The Turner exhibit runs till June 7, and I think you should go check it out if you're in town. Student rates at 6 pounds, otherwise its 8 pounds for adults :) At a time when Edinburgh seems plagued by showers, Turner's dreamy, light-filled compositions will really be the silver lining on an otherwise bleak horizon.

Best View of Edinburgh: Carlton Hill

2009-05-09T03:48:00.000-07:00

Went up Carlton Hill yesterday for the first time. The hill lies East of Princes Street and is an extremely easy climb - perhaps climb isn't the best word actually. It's an easy walk up. Carlton Hill is very user-friendly and accessible. There are stairs which easily aid your ascent up the hill. Once you're up, you'll get what I feel is the best (free) view of Edinburgh. The 'viewing' space is also definitely better than Arthur's seat as its flat ground - no fears of being blown off a precipice. And there are plenty of interesting structures on the Hill itself to keep you occupied once you've had your fill of the Edinburgh cityscape.

But apart from the view, Carlton Hill also makes an interesting entry-point to the subject of the Scottish Enlightenment. Briefly, the Scottish Enlightenment was a movement in the 18th-century, which saw Scotland produce a staggering number of intellectuals from various fields including the sciences, philosophy, economics and literature.

But back to the present. Today, Carlton Hill is the site of a couple of interesting monuments attesting to the Scottish Enlightenment. At the foot of the hill for instance, you can pay homage to one of the stalwarts of the period:

David Hume's statue lies somewhere along the Royal Mile, but I had no idea he was buried within the city centre until yesterday. The tomb itself is quite pretty - its a simple round structure, and you can go in and pay your respects to this distinguished individual.

At the top of Carlton Hill itself, there are several kooky looking structures which appear to have been transplanted straight from Athens:

This thing on the right is a monument to Dugald Stewart whom I've learnt was another philosopher who worked during the Enlightenment era. The monument was actually modelled upon the Choragic Monument near the Acropolis, hence its rather classical appearance. This allows it to fit in perfectly with the other Greek-inspired structures including the rather imposing National Monument:

It has the mysterious appearance of being unfinished - was it based on the Parthenon in Athens? Who knows...In any case, it's quite magnificent, and you'll always see people happily scrambling up its monumental looking steps for photographs.

In all, Carlton Hill is a nice place to stretch your legs, and get a great view of Edinburgh. On the last point, I would say better than the one you get from Arthur's seat, because you can see more starkly the boundary between the Old Town and the New Town from the vantage point at Carlton Hill.

However perhaps because it is so easily accessible, the hill does seem to be in need of a clean up - closer examination of the ground reveals lots of cigarette butts and beer bottles. Evidence of the activities which go on at night I suppose.

But go in the day and I assure you the only rowdiness you'll find are from Italian and Japanese tourists all jostling to get the best shot of the cityscape.

Notes on the Weather

2009-05-09T03:31:00.000-07:00

So I've written much about the weather in Edinburgh ever since I first got here. It's been a constant preoccupation, and no day starts without without me checking BBC Weather for the 24-hour forecast. Since January, my days have been planned around the possibility of snowfall, and foreshortened based on how early the sun sets.

So now that we're in Spring and supposedly approaching summer, what can I say about Scotland's weather?

I have posted several times in March and April about the coming of 'spring.' Well, we're in May now and I think I can say with some resignation that Scotland will always be cold - well at least for the time I'm here.

I first arrived in January when temperatures hovered around 7 - 9degrees celsius. It dipped down to 0 - 3 degrees in the thick of Winter by February, but slowly climbed back up to January temperatures by late March. This week in May, temperatures are at a chilly 9 -11 degrees. We don't have to worry about snow and frost anymore, but there's been tons of rain accompanied by Edinburgh's famous winds. Although to be fair, on sunny days, the sun does get pretty strong - but never quite enough for one to have a comfortable picnic in the park!

Well, perhaps I'll end this note on the gloomy Scottish weather more optimistically by quoting what my highland tour guide once said: "There's no bad weather! Just bad clothes!"

Fruitmarket Gallery: Making Contemporary Art "Accessible"

2009-05-08T15:39:00.000-07:00

Exhilarated after completing my History of Art paper this morning, I decided to take a walk around town, which included a visit to the Writer's Museum, and the Fruitmarket Gallery which I absolutely adored.

But first, the Writer's Museum. It's one of the surprise gems you'll find down one of the Royal Mile's many closes. The museum is located just down Lady Stairs Close, and is tucked within the stately 17th-century Stair House - a refurbished period residence which still retains some original fixtures including a 'trick stair'! Not telling you what it is - go see for yourself! Suffice to say that it was a primitive sort of burglar alarm!

The museum is dedicated to the 3 writers who have been principally associated with Scottish literature - no not J.K. Rowling. Rather, the dazzling trio are Robert Burns the 'Caledonian Bard,' Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.

The museum houses memorabilia pertaining to the three writers. There are hand-written letters to publishers, first editions of their books with annotations in the margins, and a fine collection of their personal belongings. In particular, someone must've had a magpie complex as far as Stevenson was concerned! The museum has everything right down to a lock of his hair, his walking stick, his boots and the mahogany bed stand which stood at the foot of the bed he was born in! Interestingly enough, it also acquired a cabinet which once stood in Stevenson's bedroom, and was crafted by none other than the infamous Deacon Brodie - the inspiration behind Stevenson's Dr Jekyll and My Hyde.

I'd recommend this museum for huge fans of the writers. Otherwise it's an interesting stop for all those keen to know a little more about the giants in Scottish literary history. However I would say that the museum contributes quite a bit to the whole quasi-deification of these writers - particularly Burns and Scott. No doubt there are strong arguments for their contributions to Scottish literature (and beyond), however I can't help but wonder if its a case of too much hype, especially after seeing Burn's profile plastered on everything from pub windows to T-shirts in Edinburgh.

It is also interesting to note the museum's pointed silence on the less-than-positive reviews Scott gained after his death - including charges that he had essentially manufactured an overly sentimentalized, sugar-coated view of Scotland for the world. I don't think the museum is bound to agree with these criticisms, but it is strange that they did not even address them as an undeniable (if unfortunate) part of his legacy.

Following which, I pressed onward to the Fruitmarket Gallery on Market Street. I've been meaning to go for some time, and since I was in the vicinity - why not!

The Fruitmarket Gallery is a contemporary art space which espouses a rather ambitious philosophy on its website:

"The Fruitmarket Gallery aims to make contemporary art accessible, without compromising art or under-estimating audiences. The Gallery presents world-class, thought-provoking and challenging art made by both Scottish and international artists in an environment that is welcoming, engaging, informative and always free."

Does it match up?

Currently, the Fruitmarket Gallery is housing an exhibition of selected photography and film by Irish artist, Willie Doherty. The main highlights are the two films on the lower level: "Ghost Story" (2007) which was premiered at the Venice Biennale; and "Buried" (2009) which was specially made for this exhibition.

Of the two, I preferred "Ghost Story," even though "Buried" is a good work in its own right. My take on "Ghost Story" is that it's a mesmerizing journey through the individual and shared memory of violence in Northern Ireland. The film cleverly defers confrontation with any actual 'ghosts,' although you get the sense that the narrator is haunted by the inexorable knowledge of bloodshed and pain which saturates the landscape. The build-up of suspense and fear is masterful, accentuated by a chillingly dispassionate voice-over. The voice-over in turn, profoundly impacts the viewer's engagement with the visuals. Indeed, at certain points of the film, I was led to feel that I could indeed see 'ghosts.' Scary!

So I was generally impressed by the Doherty exhibition. What was also welcoming, was the room on the second floor featuring a short 13-minute filmed interview with Doherty as he explains the motivations behind his works. The room also contains various books pertaining to Doherty's film projects, thus providing various interpretive 'tools' for the visitor. To me, this certainly lived up to the Fruitmarket Gallery's stated aim of making contemporary art 'accessible' as opposed to alienating (as it often is). Cheers to that! To their credit, I did come out of the gallery knowing more about Willie Doherty and his creative response to the contemporary problems in Northern Ireland.

So top on my recommendations list this week: The Fruitmarket Gallery! And definitely check out "Ghost Story" if you can! It is truly chilling.

Observing the Scottish Parliament

2009-05-08T13:32:00.000-07:00

So I open with a question that I've been nursing ever since my first glimpse of the Scottish Parliament building. In this day and age when anything seems to go, what makes a piece of architecture 'good' or 'bad'? How does a building ascend the unassailable ranks of the 'avant-garde,' and avoid being relegated to the plain -ugh-?

The Scottish parliament building has been beleaguered by criticisms ever since it was first unveiled in 2004. Coming to Edinburgh, I've learnt that locals have conferred upon the building a whole constellation of dubious titles. One city guide memorably called it a '400 million pound eyesore.' Ouch! Well I'll let you be the judge:

Admittedly this is one of the nicer glamour shots I managed to find online. If you look closer, you'll notice that rows of bamboo poles line the entrance, the roof and some of the windows- one of the Parliament's more bizzare features. Part of Catalan architect, Enric Miralles' vision to integrate the building with its surroundings, such that it appears to 'grow out of the land'?

In spite of the generally hostile public reception, I was interested to know that the Scottish Parliament has been feted within the architectural community. It's even received several awards! Definitely a structure that has polarized opinion.

Whatever your views on the building are, the Scottish Parliament is a visitor's attraction in its own right. And after popping by yesterday, I would strongly recommend you go not just to gawp at the soaring heights of Miralle's imagination (detractors would say insanity), but to experience what the Parliament itself houses. It's worth remembering that this monumental project is first and foremost, a triumphant symbol of Scottish home rule. The year 1997 saw Westminster agreeing to the creation of a devolved Scottish parliament - the first of its kind since Scotland's union with England in 1707. And today, anybody today can walk into Miralle's building and watch the Scottish Parliament in action, as I did two days ago.

I arrived at the premises around 10.30am and easily got a free timed ticket into the Parliament's debating chamber. I soon learnt that Thursday is the best day to visit as that's when the Parliament is in full session. You can also catch them on Wednesdays as well, but the chamber only meets for half a day then - more importantly, you'll also miss one of the most exciting parts of the parliamentary session (which I'm coming to.)

The public gallery in the debating chamber was relatively empty when I first arrived. The speakers present were debating the issue of community justice centres, from what I could catch. However closer to around 11.30am, swarms of people poured into the gallery, including a whole gaggle of school children. The sudden influx of people was explained when the Presiding Officer announced promptly at 11.40am, the start of Question and Answer time!

My timed ticket expired at 11.40am but it seemed no one was enforcing this. I consequently ended up staying till around just after 12pm, which was great because I managed to catch a little of the First Minister's Question Time - undeniably one of the most entertaining spectacles of the week. It's identical to the Prime Minister's Question Time in the House of Commons: members of parliament take turns to pose questions to the First Minister, Alex Salmond of the Scottish National Party, whilst simultaneously inserting a catty comment or two about his administration. The resulting dialogue is a lively spar with both sides jousting with clever barbs and witty retorts.

MP: ...So that said, my question to the First Minister is: Is he ignorant, or was he lying?

Presiding Officer: We will not have accusations of lying in this Chamber. I ask that you withdraw your statement, sir.

MP: Alright, I'll withdraw that but substitute it with something else. Was the First Minister ignorant... or was he economical with the truth?

Haha somehow that stuck.

If you are interested in gaining entry into the chamber to catch the First Minister's Question Time, it is advisable to book your gallery ticket ahead as it is very popular with the public. Alternatively, parliamentary proceedings are screened in various locations within the building itself. So if you can't get a ticket, you can watch the action on the medium its most suited for: a plasma screen TV.

Finally I have to say that the staff at the Scottish Parliament are one of the friendliest and most helpful I have encountered. They will take the initiative to approach you without prior prompting - whether it be to enquire if you need assistance, or to inform you that they have spare gallery tickets for Question Time. Magnificient people. I was very impressed.

Contentious appearance notwithstanding, I'd say the real debate and fireworks lie inside Miralle's creation itself. So definitely, make the Parliament one of your stops in Edinburgh.

A Taste of the Modern: Dean Gallery and Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

2009-05-06T15:04:00.000-07:00

Scottish National Modern Art Gallery - taken from the landscape lawn

So with my visit to the Dean and Modern art gallery last friday, I can now proudly say that I have visited all 5 gallery complexes under the National Galleries of Scotland!

The Dean and Modern art gallery are located all the way Northwest in Dean Village (see earlier post). The surroundings are quite beautiful - both galleries are set in the midst of parkland. The Modern art gallery itself has an interesting landscaped lawn, which is full of sinuous curves and water features - you can walk on it yourself and get a mild dizzy high while standing at the peak of the landscaped mound which overlooks the entire lawn.

Sadly, I wish the experience inside the modern art gallery had been as inspiring as its exteriors. I must qualify first that I like and support how museums and galleries are gradually evolving away from their 19th-century image as unassailable temples of reason, perpetuating linear narratives of cultural progress. At the same time, this is no excuse for a movement into post-modern chaos! Or should I say, a generally poor organization of the collection.

My main gripes with the Modern art gallery were that it included no ready floor plan (none I could see) to help orientation within the gallery space, and also poor labelling of the works - descriptions should never be repeated (or appear repetitive) even if they pertain to the same artist!

In general, I came out of the gallery feeling as if I hadn't really learnt or benefitted much as there was too little of the right information, and a weak sense of narrative coherence suggested between the different exhibits in the permanent collection.

The highlight for me though, was finally getting to see in person the handiwork of the infamous Damien Hirst. Frankly speaking, I was not impressed by some of Hirst's works. Call me ignorant or unappreciative of contemporary art, but I don't think an enlarged periodic table should be taking up so much space in an art gallery. Its significance (to me) seems to be drawn from the fact that it once hung in Hirst's restaurant, rather than from any intrinsic artistic or cultural value. It did not draw or engage me into any deeper kind of contemplation either.

Some works of Hirst which I did like however, included "Trinity: Pharmacology, Physiology, Pathology" which is a contemporary and rather playful take on a medieval triptych. I also quite liked his sculpture, "Wretched War" which was disturbing, but nevertheless compelled a powerful emotive response. From what I gather based on the exhibited works, some themes Hirst repeatedly engages is the tenuous interface between life and death, and an observation of the quasi-devotional significance society places on drugs and medicines (reflected best I thought, in "Trinity") At the same time, I don't think he deserves to have so many rooms devoted to him, compared to the other individual artists who were featured. Neither do I think that these fascinating ideas are best explored through animals suspended in vitrine. That's my opinion anyway.

The Dean gallery next door was a better experience for me. If you do go there I would recommend heading straight up to the current exhibition featuring '4 Scottish artists.'

In particular, I enjoyed viewing the small but fascinationg collection of works attributed to John Bellany. They make the Gallery well worth a trip. Check out his interpretation of the Crucifixion scene in 'Allegory.' It is a provoking work that fuses Christological imagery with scenes of realism drawn from Bellany's own experience growing up in a rural fishing community. Really quite something altogether.

Alright have to scoot off now world - ta ta!

Things to Sink Your Teeth Into (Quite Literally)

2009-05-06T13:34:00.000-07:00

1. Sink your Teeth into...Dental Care in Edinburgh

So if you're coming to Edinburgh and planning to hang around for a bit like myself, do the right thing and get registered for healthcare services.

This might be quite intuitive for some, but coming from Singapore where I'm used to waltzing into the 24-hour clinic at Clementi and expecting next-to-immediate attention, this was a minor (okay, a major) annoyance.

Getting registered at your nearest GP or dentist at the earliest possible date saves you precious waiting time when you have an emergency.

If you're a future student coming to the University of Edinburgh, make the Richard Verney Health Centre on campus one of your first stops - persist and double-check if the counter staff say registering is unnecessary (as they did to me in January). It is necessary as I found out 4 months later.

On the bright side, not registering in this case isn't such a big deal - they'll simply ask you to come about half an hour before your appointment to fill in your details. However, what's a bummer is if you're in need of dental care - the University does not have any dental services on campus so you'll have to scout around for the nearest dental clinic near you.

So the long and short of it was that I experienced major tooth-achage in my wisdom tooth on the eve of my Spain trip. I survived the holiday taking Ibruprofen and gargling with salt water. By the time I returned to Edinburgh it had subsided but I thought it would be a good idea to get it checked out just in case. So I called up the nearest dental clinic, which promptly informed me that I would have to be registered. Shockingly, the earliest appointment they could arrange was in a month's time, unless my case constituted an 'emergency' (ie: serious pain)

However she kindly directed me to Chalmers Dental Centre on 3 Chalmers Street (near Tollcross), which is a clinic for individuals who are not registered with any dental practice, and who might need immediate attention.

If you do end up making a visit to Chalmers Dental Centre, here are some things to note:

i. Go as early as you can. I arrived at the clinic around 10.20am and filled in some forms about my medical history. Half an hour later, I was attended to by a nurse who recorded my symptoms and assessed my situation, before referring me to one of the clinic's dentists. The wait-time in between the nurse and the dentist was at least an hour. It's first come first served, so obviously the earlier you go, the further in front of the line you'll be. And yes, the clinic is busy.

ii. Service: Once you finally get to meet the dentist, the service is generally friendly and professional. I felt like I was in fairly safe hands during the entire procedure - though that might've been helped by the anaesthetic injections which numbed me to any pain!

The gum area around my wisdom tooth was cleaned to prevent further incidences of local infection. Some anti-bacterial gel was also applied to the affected area. The entire procedure cost just 6 pounds.

iii. Patient after-care: Another difference between the UK and Singapore is that medicine is not dispensed within the clinics. The doctor will give you a prescription, but you have to make a trip to the nearest pharmacy in order to pick up the required medication. Again this can be a bummer.

Perhaps this separation of the clinic and pharmacy explains why patient after-care is slightly lacking. For one, I wish the dentist had prescribed me some good pain-killers. The pain after the anaesthetic wore out was truly terrible (I hadn't expected it) and even the ibruprofen I had didn't help. It largely ebbed by the next morning although the area remained sore and tender.

The dentist handed me a slip of paper with the name of an anti-bacterial gel (corsodyl), but no explicit instructions were given on how to use it. So clarify all doubts before leaving the clinic to ensure you have as much information as possible. The pharmacist will be able to answer your questions but obviously having treated you, the dentist would be better-placed and more well-informed about your situation.

2. Sink your Teeth into...A Tasty Tandoori Treat

So a week later, my tooth has fully healed. No more gnashing of teeth, it's time to celebrate with a proper meal!

I headed down to Kebab Mahal on Nicolson Square, a small sit-down restaurant specializing in traditional Tandoori dishes. Kebab Mahal's been around for about 20 years now, so that's something you have to respect. The menu is also entirely halal.

I ordered a Shish Kebab which came with a side of salad (mainly onions as pictured), and a slice of naan. The naan was not particularly memorable, however the meat was excellent. Cubes of juicy, flavourful beef coated in a bright red sauce - I don't exactly know what the sauce consisted of but it does make your tongue tingle quite literally. And it is rather intense I must say! Order a lassi (cold yoghurt-based drink) to temper the spice.

All in all, a satisfying meal can be had for 3 pounds. Go if you want a zing unattainable from the comparatively (dare I say?) bland flavours of English food - this is sure to whet your appetite! Although note the closure of the restaurant on Fridays from noon to 1pm for afternoon prayers.

Edinburgh's Best Kept Secret: Water of Leith Walkway

2009-05-06T12:18:00.000-07:00

The wonderful thing about Edinburgh is that it's a city you can never truly exhaust. Beyond the obvious attractions, it holds many surprises if you give it a chance. Always keep your eyes peeled for the discreet detours. And don't be afraid to jump down the rabbit-hole - you might just land up in your own little wonderland.

I went off to Dean Village last Friday, to make my long-awaited trip to the Modern Art gallery. Dean Village is roughly 20 minutes by foot from the City centre. Start from Princes Street, and head North-west; you'll segue nicely from the impenetrable mass of shoppers to rows of sweet, well-tended residences which sit snugly along Belford Road. It's a nice place by itself to stroll around.

The museum lies somewhere down Belford Road, but what's inside it is a subject for another time. As you cross the road to enter the museum grounds, you might notice a sign by the side of the road:

Head down the wooden flight of stairs which lead to the Water of Leith Walkway. I have a feeling you won't regret it.

You'll find yourself on a little pathway right next to the river. Trees on either side of the Water of Leith enclose you in a quiet, contemplative world where the only sounds are the footfalls of the occassional jogger - muffled by the soft, mossy ground - and of course, the whimisical bubbling of the water as it makes its way down the river bed. It's picturesque, enchanting and a wonderful place to just wander along and get away from it all.

I've since learnt that the walk way extends for quite a distance, and leads all the way to Leith. I only walked a smidgen of it on Friday, before making a detour to get back home before dark. If I could, I would definitely go back again and attempt to cover the entire length of the walkway!

So if ever you need some respite from city life (not that Edinburgh's stressful actually), head straight to the water. Just stand there and take all the time you need to soak it in. You'll be charmed.

Recalling Spain. Caution: Long-winded Meditation on Travelling included

2009-05-04T14:00:00.001-07:00

This is a much overdue update about my short 5 day trip to Spain. Well, I have to be honest and say that it doesn’t particularly stand out as one of my favourite getaways for several reasons:

I was on painkillers throughout most of the trip because of my tooth problems, so that was a natural dampener
I spent one cold night sleeping on the floor of the airport, after being told ‘vamos’ repeatedly by an irate café owner
The attractions were just alright in my estimation. In particular, Madrid turned out to be pretty disappointing –don’t stone me please, but I think it’s boring! 
I had heard a lot about street crime in Madrid, so I was on the look-out constantly for my belongings which did breed a certain amount of stress when in crowds
Poor weather in Barcelona, poorer bunk mates in the hostel!

At the same time, I will admit that having only briefly sampled two places – Madrid and Barcelona – it is perhaps unfair of me to make any conclusive statements about Spain in general.

I actually want to add on to that last sentence, at the risk of overanalyzing a holiday; it is precisely this inability to know a place and a culture that has been bothering me for a while now. No doubt travelling can and does ‘broaden your horizons’ – I firmly believe it is an endeavour with the potential to enlighten, enrich and transform.

Yet at the same time, how far does the business of travelling obfuscate a locality by reducing it to a fixed set of stereotypes? Tourism is after all, about the careful management of a place– if a place lacks any exotic appeal, some must be manufactured. If the destination is however, too ‘different,’ this difference must be attenuated so that it does not alienate the tourist.

So when I say I’ve been somewhere, was I really there? Or was I simply re-enacting a particular vision of the place promulgated by travel literature?

As an independent traveler, did I really have full autonomy over my own holiday, or did I choose from sanctioned routes already chosen for me?

What then, is the purpose of travelling if I wind up consuming and then, perpetuating these same myths about places?

I blame Madrid for foisting these uncomfortable thoughts upon me – but really, what else can you do whilst chilling in the Plaza de Oriente? Your mind invariably wanders, and stumbles upon these awkward questions when you’re supposed to be enjoying an afternoon siesta!

So did I end up knowing Spain and Spaniards any better? Perhaps, perhaps not.

In my mind, there are further implications of this not all of which I really want to discuss. This is something I will have to continue thinking about. For the rest of this review however, I will limit myself to the qualification that I ‘did’ Spain the way it’s spoken about and visualized from the outside – sangria, flamenco, tapas. You name it.

So recognizing that commercial tourism celebrates the creation of showpieces, I will confine myself to judging it by its same self-generated tropes:

The Land of Paella and Sangria

Yes. Paella does feature on a lot of menus in Spanish restaurants. We had our first Paella in a Madrid pub. I personally have never thought Paella inspired fireworks, and I hold firm to this view after we sampled the dish in Madrid – it was decent, but not particularly memorable.

However, we did have Paella again in a Barcelona restaurant managed by Chinese – this time we opted for Black Paella (Arros Negre), which is a variation cooked in squid ink.

I have to be perfectly honest and say I was doubtful about whether Chinese people could ‘do’ Spanish food, but the Black Paella turned out excellent and better than anything else I had tasted thus far. So this was really a case of me eating my words.

Sangria is readily available in all the bars, pubs and restaurants, and you can get a whole pitcher if you want. Of course quality, taste and even fizziness differs from place to place, so there’s obviously no consistent recipe stuck to.

As I found out while on my medication, it is a bit tricky if you try ordering anything non-alcoholic in Spanish pubs - or anything vegetarian for that matter. However, try asking for cerveza sin alcohol (beer without alcohol) and hope they have it. It tastes exactly like normal beer.

If you’re vegetarian, good luck negotiating the Spaniards’ love affair with meat. And watch the ham.

Tapas

If I could explain Tapas to a friend back home, I would say it’s a cross between Chinese dim sum and bar food. From what I understand, tapas refer collectively to a selection of appetizers served in small portions, usually shared amongst a group of friends.

And most importantly as I found out, tapas is strictly served at bars and pubs. Don’t waltz into a café or restaurant asking for a tapas menu unless you want to attract stares. And as with alcohol purchased at the bar, it is not unusual to eat tapas standing up and walking around.

So I would say it is simple, fuss-free food in an informal context. For that reason, don’t think or expect tapas to be a ‘cuisine.’ A modest plate of olives, mini sandwiches, potato salad or meatballs can alone constitute tapas. At the same time, croquettas, calamari, and slices of Iberian ham usually feature on the tapas list. Of these, I would recommend trying Iberian ham as it is pretty unique to Spain and has an excellent flavor.

Other than that, do your tapas crawl, but bear in mind the context that it is usually consumed in – tapas in general, are deemed secondary accompaniments to drinking and socializing in Spain.

The Flamenco

We’ve all heard about this dramatic dance of passion. How does it stack up?

Well, a lot of Flamenco in Spain is staged for tourists, there’s no two-ways about that. Cover charges into Flamenco clubs can consequently be pretty expensive.

When in Barcelona, we had the opportunity to attend a Flamenco and Opera performance (literally entitled Flamenco y Opera). For about 30 euros, you literally get a fusion of everything quintessentially ‘Spanish’ in the performing arts – flamenco of course, and also a rendition of the celebrated Habanera from Carmen (yes, you know which one), in addition to singing accompanied by that famous Spanish guitar.

I don’t know enough about opera to comment, and frankly it intimidates me sometimes. In any case, I was most struck by the Flamenco dancers. The choreography for the show was designed for either the male or female to take centre-stage at any one time; they did not dance together that much as a result. This produced mixed reactions – my friends had hoped to see them dance more often as a couple. However I was enthralled by the individual dances, and in particular, how much passion and strength the female dancer exhibited singularly. She was sensual without coming across as a sex object – a rare combination today I feel. She exuded power, confidence and dignity – all without the help of a man. Bravisimmo!

Sunshine and Beaches

Spain is no doubt warmer than where I’m currently at. But no, it’s not all sun and fun. There are beaches in Barcelona which are excellent for surfing, however not everyday’s a perfect beach day. Always go prepared for dreary, wet weather especially in spring time.

While wet weather plans are essential in Barcelona, you might need similar ones in Madrid – not to escape the rain, but rather, the dry, oppressive heat. Madrid is known for its art museums, so I suggest you head right down to either The Prado or the Reina Sofia (if you like modern art) on those unbearably hot afternoons.

Gaudi in Barcelona

Barcelona tourism has a lot to thank Antonio Gaudi for. His inventive and often surreal architectural creations are the city’s main draws, and I believe Barcelona is one of the few places where a construction site is considered a local symbol. Gaudi’s unfinished Sagrada Familia attracts millions, and I will admit that the exterior is astounding to behold. However I had doubts about paying 13 euros to view the interior which I understand, after reading online reviews, is mostly covered in scaffolding.

Apart from the Sagrada Familia, there are plenty of other Gaudi creations in Barcelona. They are beautiful no doubt, but I feel they are overpriced. Park Guell is one of the few that are free to enter, and I do recommend you go there to get a sampling of Gaudi’s genius.

However the park is sadly marred by the tons of buskers and street vendors who converge on its walkways, taking advantage of the high visitor traffic.

A bit of a disappointment not because the park is deficient aesthetically. I would however put it down to way too much pre-visitation hype, which Barcelona tourism invariably encourages.

In a nutshell: I would recommend that unless you are a big fan of nightlife, do not linger in Madrid. It did not excite me, and we found ourselves running out of things to do and see by the end of the first day.

Barcelona is more interesting in comparison, though I personally feel that the cult of Gaudi (not Gaudi himself) is overrated.

The food I had in Spain did not blow my mind, although you might as well try it when there. Between the so-called ‘Spanish’ culutral activities of Flamenco and bullfighting, I would recommend the former not simply because I enjoyed it, but also because I personally think bullfighting is cruel! So there you go. That’s how I ‘did’ Spain.

AWARE Saga Concluded and Remembered

2009-05-02T16:23:00.000-07:00

You must forgive all these posts on AWARE, but hey, in my opinion I think May 2 2009 has been an important day back home in Singapore for several reasons:

1. A vote of no confidence was passed against Josie Lau and her committee. At a staggering 2:1, it was a resounding call for them to step down. This can (and has been) read in many ways: the Old Guard rightfully reclaiming their organization; a triumph for secularism; a slap on the wrist for aggressive proselytizing in the public sphere; a step forward in tolerance and social inclusiveness; a maturation of public debate...however you spin it -

2. - I think it can nevertheless be called a historical watershed in civil society. Time will tell if this statement holds up. But in the meantime, thank you to all the women and men who went down to the EGM, and made their voices count!

I was interested to read some of the comments thrown to the New Exco here http://wayangparty.com/?p=8732

"I decided to pay $40, line up for 2 hours just for one purpose - to cast my vote of NO CONFIDENCE, and I ask them, after this meeting, how do you carry on? Dr Thio, you said you are a feminist mentor to women in Singapore. With due respect to you, I would not like you to be my mentor."

Ouch!

On a separate note, t is heartening how this incident has prompted many of my friends to declare their pride at being Singaporean today - something I would have never heard in years. Overt statements of national pride are generally not in vogue amongst my set.

3.

From the hilarious youtube spoofs of the saga (see typical Cantonese melodrama above) to the numerous facebook notes which have popped up, it is truly the dawn of a new media. It showed even today - the new executive committee shut out the media from the EGM proceedings, but they couldn't stop the one from within.

So let's hear it for the Twitterers who gave us all real-time updates in the cyberworld. It was thrilling, sitting glued to my twitterfeed getting a blow-by-blow of the events unfolding within Suntec itself. They made Channel News Asia, Straits Times and the lot appear slow. Your iphone batteries might have nearly died in the process, but you've recorded a valuable piece of social history twitterers! This needs to go into the archives somehow.

I also find it amusing that for several hours, the #awaresg thread dominated twitter, causing curious American users to go 'What on earth is awaresg??? I can't find it on wikipedia!!' This is worth stressing - for 5 hours, #awaresg was the top trending topic on twitter in the world.

4. The EGM has unleashed a host of deliciously juicy soundbites bound to be repeated and bandied about in the weeks to come. See below for Dr Thio's (in)famous "Page 73" remarks - first reported and immortalized by Twitter users.

I love how Margaret Thomas (founding member AWARE, blue shirt) is simultaneously raising her hand to calm the crowd, yet can't suppress a look of supreme disdain. See 0:33 - 0:36!

They've already created special edition t-shirts based on Dr Thio and co's gems! I present Ms Sally Ang's fateful words which have since been widely repeated (with some glee) by online users:

See more at http://www.printeet.com/shop/ Hilarious really.

***

A chapter has closed, but I hope this saga will signal the start of something larger in civil society. Critics have said that Singaporeans will simply recede back into normalcy ie: apathy once the controversy has blown over - let's take them up on this. Let's gather the energy and momentum this issue has created, reflect on it, and then bring it forward to make positive changes in our community.

Following the AWARE saga on Twitterfall

2009-05-02T03:40:00.000-07:00

Singaporeans following the AWARE EGM in real time are ruling Twitter for once. Waiting for the votes to be tallied now - it's taking so long!

Anyway, my favourite posts on the AWARE saga thus far on twitter - most of whom are from fellow Singaporeans tired of waiting nearly 2 hours for the votes to be counted:

"the delay is obviously a conspiracy by suntec to maximize their
parking fare returns"

"I think we're going to see a unexpected net profit in Breadtalk's books this quarter (they own foodrepublic)"

"Reminder: Parking at Suntec City is $1.07 per hour."

"Exco quoting study on abstinence by group in Utah. Duh! They are Mormons."

"the mens room has been converted to the ladies...there are guys hanging around looking flustered"

"Singapore cannot be a Counting Hub"

"I am imagining this person counting the votes, and this other person constantly jumping out yelling "BOO!" to make her lose count."

"are they waiting for the helicopter for the emergency evacuation before releasing the results or what?"

"This is like getting updates from the Titanic... Batteries dead or dying. Few updates... It's so c c cold Jack..."

Hurry up and get the votes in already!

If you're reading this now, follow the tweets on http://twitterfall.com/?oauth_token=s7jKG7Rz8q8ATVAbmDCMBFdfY9z24znBUHuh82XVZ9E

We are AWARE...even when abroad

2009-04-30T03:31:00.001-07:00

Doing a little to show my support for AWARE - a Singaporean NGO which has done admirable advocacy work for women in Singapore since 1984.

Sadly, this organization has been fissured by a controversial change in leadership earlier this year. The new leaders of AWARE have thrust a single issue into the limelight, which they claim is evidence of the old AWARE's declining vision and focus - namely, the organization's supposed 'homosexual' agenda. The new leadership states that they have come to bring AWARE 'back' to its original aims and focus - that is, everyday women's issues. Although how they got the idea that lesbians do not factor in 'women's' issues especially in this day and age is puzzling.

This has become a huge point of contention and provoked knee-jerk reactions from certain sections of society. Whilst it has understandably raised concerns, I think it is unfortunate that one issue should negate and overshadow AWARE's extensive track record over the past 25 years, which you can view here http://www.we-are-aware.sg/achievements

If you are not comfortable with AWARE's liberal and open stance toward homosexuality and sexual education, that is fine. However, surely that cannot be the only criteria by which you judge this institution which has done so much more over the last quarter of a century to improve the lives of women. No organization is perfect, but I admire the open spirit which has guided AWARE, and which has given it the flexibility to evolve over the years and accommodate the new challenges that women in Singapore face.

And surely AWARE's stance toward alternative sexualities cannot be the only reason to endorse a new set of women who, however well-meaning, have claimed leadership over an organization whose ethos they do not even subscribe to (from what I see) - or selectively subscribe to only when it fits their personal religious convictions first and foremost. I should stress that I don't believe in interrogating someone's personal religious beliefs, unless they start to exert an undue influence over the management of a secular, liberal and non-discriminatory organization.

If you're an overseas Singaporean like me and wish to show your support for the old AWARE, you can pop by here to view and sign their online petition: http://www.gopetition.com/online/27163.html

Incidentally, the petition was started by a veteran member of AWARE who is also currently residing overseas! It's great that we can still have a say and take a stand even when away from home.

And for all those ladies back home. If you support the old AWARE and what it stands for, do sign up and go vote at the EGM this Saturday!!! I really wish I could've been there, but alas...here I am.

If you wish to find out more about the AWARE saga, I've really enjoyed viewing the press conferences which both the new and old leadership have given in the last week. See http://www.channelnewsasia.com/aware/videoarchives.htm for the video archives!

Updates from my room

2009-04-29T07:15:00.001-07:00

Am recovering from a rather tiring trip to Spain, and a painful dental procedure which I went for yesterday to clean out the gum area around an infected wisdom tooth. The post-procedure pain has largely ebbed thankfully, although there is still slight discomfort in the tooth area, and swelling around my jaw area. Hopefully that will subside in the days to come.

I am in the midst of completing a take-home essay examination for my Scottish Literature module. It is going well, albeit rather slowly, because my room (and laptop) provides ample sources of distraction - blogging happens to be one of them. At the moment, I am hooked on following the AWARE saga in Singapore - it feels so good to be connected to going-ons back home via the internet!

For more information about the saga, this has been the website I visit most regularly for updates: http://www.we-are-aware.sg Check it out if you have time. The case itself is interesting in its own right, but beyond that, it also provides intriguing insight into the state of contemporary civil society in Singapore. I am excited to see the amount of lively debate and intelligent comments the case has brought about - well, not to say that there haven't been un-intelligent responses but those are generally inevitable.

I will be following the press releases after May 2 (slated date of the Extraordinary General meeting) with much enthusiasm! My only regret is that I cannot be in Singapore to catch the proceedings in person - there is, however, an online petition which we can sign to show moral support for the old AWARE. It really is extraordinary how overseas Singaporeans can continue to follow and participate in happenings back home nowadays.

Other than that, I am glad to finally settle back down in my room. Not to say that Spain wasn't fun (although we did have awful room-mates in the hostel), but it is comforting to be back in familiar surroundings. It doesn't hurt also to be back in a place where the people speak English - Huishan, you were so right when you spoke about linguistic capital when travelling. Simply understanding and being understood can make such a big difference to your confidence levels, especially in places where the people aren't exactly famed for their patience, manners or tolerance toward foreigners (I'm speaking generally here).

Well back to work then. More updates soon!

A London Diary

2009-04-20T16:43:00.000-07:00

I couldn't do it for France and forget all about London. So here it is! The highs and the lows of London:

Five Best Experiences in London

1. Shopping with Mum

Retail therapy is a great opportunity for mother-daughter bonding. I enjoyed walking around the major shopping belts with my mum, and just getting a glimpse of daily life on the busy arteries of London's major streets.

We picked up most of our buys along Oxford Street, however I really liked wandering around these two places in particular: Neal's Yard (above) and Camden Lock. The former is a little square tucked away from the main road. The place is a violent riot of colours when you enter, with young Londoners milling about and sitting on the public benches. It's a pleasure to walk around this rather bohemian area. Grab a bite while you're at it - there is a fun selection of cafes within the yard serving a mixture of cuisines.

I think the Camden Town area is a must for anyone with a remote interest in fashion and shopping. Camden Market (Buck Street) is similar to Bugis Village with its loud flashy signage and youthful fashion, but Camden Lock Market appealed to me more. It sits prettily near Regent's Canal (pictured above), and houses a wide assortment of merchandise encompassing prints, clothes, accessories, furniture, and of course, an international spread of street food. The canal is also lined with a host of trendy F&B outlets ranging from cavernous pubs to mod-looking Japanese restaurants. I imagine the place would be very vibrant in the evening.

2. Getting Cultured for the Price of Nothing

The cityscape of London is nowhere as picturesque as Paris or even some parts of Edinburgh. However, it is unparalleled in the sheer number of cultural institutions which are free and accessible to all. As Stephanie says, there's always something to do in London, and you can be entertained for close to nothing on a lazy weekend.

Free galleries and museums abound in London, including big-wigs like the British Museum (pictured above) and the Natural History Museum. A tip if you're racking your brains for souvenirs in London: forget the Union Jack fridge magnets and 'I LOVE LONDON' tee-shirts - I apologize if this sounds snobbish, but my philosophy is that apart from edibles, cheap souvenirs always wind up as tacky dust-collectors or ill-fitting Pajamas. Save the earth's resources (and your own) and invest in good gifts which the receiver is more likely to appreciate. If you concur, I'd suggest heading straight for the museum giftshops/bookstores. The merchandise I've seen is excellent, and usually encompasses more than in-house publications. The Natural History Museum in particular is great if you're shopping for kids - all sorts of knick-knacks, which are not only delightful but educational. You can't argue with that! I also liked the photography books which the Natural History giftstore had - excellent quality photographs of wildlife in artsy, coffee table-ish books. Of course, these gifts are admittedly a little pricey - not for those relatives you secretly don't like too much!

But giftstores aside, my favourite museum was the Victoria and Albert (V&A) pictured below. It is quite a gem, and I really enjoyed sampling their vast and eclectic collection which included rooms dedicated to fashion, textiles and theatre amongst other things. There was even a special exhibition on Hats going on when I visited, complete with museum staff walking around in the most outlandish and hilarious hats ever! Spent a fun and engaging time there. And yes, the giftstore is heaven-on-earth.

3. Tea for Two

I like supermarket shopping with my boyfriend, and I think he would've gone wild in Harrods. The selection is impeccable, ranging from antique furniture to quality groceries. The food halls in particular are gorgeously decorated, and the teas and chocolates are popular gift items.

But while you're in one of these ultra posh departmental stores, rest your shopping-weary legs in one of their ubiquitous tea-rooms and give yourself a treat. Apart from their fragrant brews, don't miss the famous macaroons at Laduree Cafe in Harrods. The Fountain restaurant in Fortnum and Mason also serves up an excellent plate of scones complete with jam and clotted cream (pictured below). For myself, I ordered the Sticky Date Toffee pudding which was excellent, although I think Marmalade Pantry's version is actually as good.

4. Picnicing in Hyde Park

Strictly a good-weather activity. When I returned to London after my sojourn in France, Stephanie and I spontaneously decided to have a picnic in Hyde Park! The park itself is lovely, especially when the sun's out. Also, there are usually a variety of interesting characters who will keep you occupied; these include inquisitive squirrels who will eat out of your hand, and the occassional break-dancing troupe which decides to debut their moves on the green - yes, we experienced both when picnicing there. What did I tell you about free entertainment in London?

5. Eating Out in London

This gets a mention simply because it was such a welcome change from 3 months of dining hall food. English food is nothing to shout about, and I would say that it is cetainly overwhelmed by the sheer diversity of international cuisines all jostling for your attention in London. The choice is really quite staggering. Chinese, Indian and Italian food are obvious finds, but there's also Malaysian, Eastern European and Korean food to suit even the most selective of tastebuds. Of course whether or not the food meets up to your expectations is a different matter, but the variety itself is a good and promising start! Thanks to Mum, Dad, Suresh and Stephanie for treating my tastebuds to Dimsum, U-don, Kimchi soup, Chinese Roast duck, Portuguese-style chicken, Tea cakes and Thali amongst other things! And of course, who could forget that excellent grilled sea bass in the Italian restaurant - thanks for letting me pinch off your plate daddy!

Not-too-good Experiences in London

1. Tower of London

Expensive and not all that exciting for me. However, redeemed by the Yeoman Warden tours which are exceedingly entertaining.

2. The Metro

Generally quite efficient when its working, however we experienced many line closures when there, especially over the weekend. Always set off earlier for your destination lest you wind up stranded in a station where service has been interrupted or delayed suddenly.

3. Football Fans

Loud, noisy, boorish and generally drunk. They sing annoying songs as well. Avoid them at all costs.

4. The Crush of People

Found in all Tube stations at peak hour, and on Sundays along Oxford Street. The crowds are massive, pushy and jostling. London is definitely a city that lives on the fast (and hectic) lane, and they aren't very tolerant of tourists who mill around aimlessly on the streets obstructing pedestrian flow. Avoid standing on the wrong side of escalators lest you receive rude glances from impatient office workers rushing to work - you'll be reminded in no uncertain terms to keep to the right.

Remembering France

2009-04-18T04:06:00.000-07:00

In a nutshell:

Five Best Experiences in France

1. Walking along the Seine

One of the most surprising discoveries I made in Paris: Life seems to move as slowly as the sinuous Seine. After coming from London which is hectic to put it very mildly, I expected Parisians to live life equally fast and furious.

The city-scape is clearly one that befits a modern metropolis, yet the pace of life (as I experienced it) was pleasantly mellow. Walking along the banks of the river Seine captures this perfectly: the boulevards are wide, breezy and lined with trees; elderly couples stroll casually in front of you, arms linked like bashful school children; artists peddle their wares by the river-side unobtrusively; and Parisiens sip coffee from the shaded recesses of roadside cafes simply watching the world go by.

We had just 3 days in Paris which is clearly not enough to clearly see everything. Before coming I had steeled myself for a rushed whistle-stop tour of the city's main sights - but Paris has the effect of enveloping you with its charm, causing you to slow down and literally, smell the roses. And that we did. Quite a lot, with red wine and cheese in hand. Is this the famed French joie de vivre kicking in? Paris ended up one of the most relaxing and enjoyable trips ever.

2. Visiting the Eiffel Tower at Night

The Eiffel Tower is not over-rated in my book - though it is undeniably a converging point for trigger-happy tourists and shady looking salespeople jingling Eiffel Tower keychains in your face. We didn't manage to go up the tower, but no matter - it is simply gorgeous to behold from any angle at night when it's lit up. Watch out for the hourly light show when the tower literally sparkles for five minutes. The best part about it is the split second you experience when everyone's too stunned to take any pictures. Then you hear a collective sigh of delight rising from the snaking queue waiting to take the elevator up the tower. It's really quite amazing.

Then a second later all the cameras are raised again, in a frenzy of flashes. But hey, the Tower's still the brightest star of them all.

3. Parcs et jardins

Parks and gardens are sacred grounds of pilgrimage for weary travellers. Spring is an excellent time to visit any of them as the flowers are in full bloom, and the weather is generally perfect for afternoon picnics on the grass. My favourite gardens are the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris, and the Cimiez Monastery Park in Nice. The latter in particular (pictured above), not only has beautifully tended rose-beds, but it also commands sweeping views of Nice - one of the best I dare say.

4. Overnight train ride to Nice

After hearing nightmarish stories of sleeper berths in trains having nothing more than 'mattressed planks,' I was understandably apprehensive about sleeping in a couchette during our 10 hour train journey from Paris to Nice. However, the couchettes proved extremely comfortable and were thoughtfully supplied with individual blankets, eyemasks, ear plugs, mineral water and breath-mints.

Apart from the comfortable bed however, the best part of the journey was waking up early (around 6.30am) and watching the sun rise over the French provencal landscape, and glittering over the Rivera coastline. You share this experience with other bleary-eyed and hushed travellers, lined up in the narrow corridor of the train. Quite remarkable.

5. Nice

Nice is beautiful! It is blessed with more charisma than it's stately counterpart, Paris, and is also (surprisingly) far less touristy. Don't get me wrong - there are tons of tourists milling about the beaches, but evidence of locals pandering to the tourist dollar are generally minimal. Nice is also much more affordable than Paris, and that might explain why the locals also seem friendlier. However like Paris (or perhaps, even more so), the pace of life is exceedingly slow and relaxed. An excellent place for serious relaxation.

Nice is understandably famous for its beach and coastline - it is the capital of the Rivera after all. I won't dispute that too much - the Baie des Angeles is a must-see. Don't be put off by the high noon-time sun; that's the absolute best time in my opinion, to stroll down the famed Promenades des Anglais to see the beach in full swing and in full colour. Morning and evening strolls by the beach work fine too, but you won't get the full flavour of the place - the rollerbladers have retired their skates, the chattering local boys who cheekily flirt with you in broken Mandarin have disappeared, the bronzed sun-bathers have rolled up their beach mats, and the circus-like buzz along the promenade which swirls merrily around you has faded along with the evening sun.

But apart from the Promenade, Vieux Nice is also another must-see. The old quarter of the city, it is filled with little, narrow streets and brightly painted buildings which are festooned with laundry strung on sagging clothes lines. Unlike the Baie des Angeles, I'd recommend the opposite for Vieux Nice: of course, you must go for the colourful flower market on Cours Saleya, and sample Nicois cuisine in the more bustling Rue Saint Francois de Paul; however, I think the most charming parts of Vieux Nice lie in the quiet backroads which are mainly residential areas free of shops peddling bikinis. These are great places to get lost in.

Check out some of the churches in Vieux Nice as well. The church at the end of Rue de Jesus has a stunning baroque interior which will enthrall you for quite a while. And this is coming from someone who is close to exhausting her appetite for churches in Europe.

Worst Experiences in France

Nothing's perfect though my holiday in France came pretty darn close. Here are some little things which prevented me from coining this an absolute 5-star holiday.

1. Parisiens

It's not entirely true that the French refuse to speak English - most will know some basic words/phrases which helps communication quite a bit. But then most stereotypes have some basis in fact. The Parisiens I encountered were not the warmest of people, especially the service staff. They can come across as rather aloof and stand-offish. Bad and unclear French can be met with impatient eye-rolls. Service with a smile is not exactly a popular philosophy here.

On the bright side, I notice that the standards of English in Nice were much better. But more importantly, the locals were also far friendlier down in the South. A nice elderly gentleman struck up a conversation with me in Nice and was patient enough to listen as I tried to form sentences in my extremely poor French!

2. Crowd management at the Lourve

Poor. Over an hour's waiting time which encompassed the queue for entry into the Lourve lobby and another separate queue for admission tickets within the lobby itself manned by a grand total of one frazzled looking lady. I should add that I don't mind waiting for popular attractions, but I have seen much more efficient crowd management where you actually feel like you're moving at a regular and consistent speed even though there are thousands of people in front of you.

Signage and information brochures were ambiguous, leading us to think that admission prices would be free for under-26s on certain evenings, when this actually only applied to EU citizens.

Flash photography is rampant even though this is technically prohibited and should be since it is destructive for the paintings. Understandably, the size of the Lourve makes this hard to police but I have to say that in the Vatican museum which is positively sprawling, even the part-time guides will tell you off if they see you snapping away with your flash on though it's not really their business. The Sistine chapel itself has security guards who literally shout at you from their podium to keep quiet and stop taking pictures.

Not so with the Mona Lisa. Everyone takes photos with their flash on. There wasn't even a custodian in the room to manage or discipline the crowd. What is up with that?

3. Notre-Dame

Nice cathedral - nicer on the outside. The inside is a literal market-place. I hated it. While I am guilty of taking (non-flash) pictures inside cathedrals sometimes, I think basic decorum should be observed when a service or mass is in progress - which it was when we entered Notre-Dame. That means, give your camera a break or at the very least turn off the flash so it won't be so distracting. That sadly didn't happen inside the Church which is clearly, massively popular with trigger-happy tourists. If I remember correctly, even the gift shop's merchandise encroached quite a far bit into the worship space, which is seriously tacky.

There needs to be more stern policing done. Sacre-Coeur was a much better experience - large signs and guards at the entrance remind you to not take photos, and to observe silence when walking around the church. A dress code is also enforced at Sacre-Coeur which is fair.

4. Versailles

25 Euros for a day passport into the Gardens, Chateau and Marie Antoinette's apartments. But our friends showed their student IDs and got in for free even though they weren't EU citizens. The unfairness of it all!

But in any case, I think I might have reached my saturation point as far as castles and palaces are concerned. Or perhaps I just wasn't very impressed by Versailles itself. The so-called Fountain Musical performance in the Versailles gardens was over-rated. I don't think you should label something a 'performance' or a 'show' unless it has some discernable entertainment value. Turning on the water simultaneously in all the fountains is not exactly entertaining after the first 2 minutes. I expected at the very least, jets of water, leaping in sync with the Baroque music for the 8 euro admission fee into the gardens itself. No such luck.

France in Quick Retrospect

2009-04-16T16:16:00.000-07:00

I'm currently in Stephanie's apartment in London, after my 7 day break in France. The itinery encompassed 3 days in Paris, and 3 days down South in Nice. A rather modest schedule but this turned out to be one of the best holidays I've ever had and I'm really glad I went. More detailed post coming soon - hopefully when I get back to Edinburgh.

But in the meantime, my heart pines for France and (strangely enough) pain au chocolat!

Quick Quips: Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon

2009-04-09T10:01:00.000-07:00

Took a short guided day trip to Oxford and Stratford-upon-Avon on Tuesday. As with all guided tours, it was unfortunately very rushed, very touch-and-go and left at best, rather fleeting memories. So I suppose I ought to try and record down some brief impressions before they fade!

1. Oxford

Oxford is really quite a pretty city. If I have the opportunity, I would love to come back here and wander around myself.

We toured Christ Church chapel, which was where several scenes from Harry Potter were filmed. The Great Hall was pretty cool, but positively swamped with camera-armed tourists. Squeezing past them was not very fun at all. The walk around the campus itself was far more pleasant; the architecture is really quite pleasing to the eye. I liked the library (pictured above) quite a bit!

Apart from the university, the city itself is also lovely in its own right, save for the giant tour buses which trawl the streets. But hey, you can't have everything can you?

2. Stratford-upon-Avon

More famously known as the birthplace and residence of the Bard. Shakespeare references abound in this little town, including the 'As you like it' cafe, and the 'Iago' jewelry shop. Otherwise, the town is somewhat dull. However I must say that the main street which houses Shakespeare's house has been quite beautifully refurbished with trendy shops and bistros housed within quaint, white-washed Tudor facades. No doubt deliberately made picture-perfect for the postcards!

Even prettier however, was Anne Hathaway's cottage - birthplace of Shakespeare's wife! The house is well-restored and is simply gorgeous to behold, especially the gardens! I'd upload a picture but I'm lazy and blogger is lagging, so I'll do it another time! :P

Another interesting feature about Stratford-upon-Avon were the spontaneous performances of Shakespeare's plays (excerpts) which occured within the birthplace compound and spilt out onto the streets. Actresses togged in period garb re-enacted scenes from A Midsummer Night's Dream as tourists munching on baguettes watched on from the 'Food of Love' cafe. It's really a kind of heaven (if somewhat tacky) for die-hard Shakespeare enthusiasts.

Have to go off now. See you sometime soon world!

Brief Thoughts from London

2009-04-08T01:49:00.000-07:00

London is sprawling, noisy and - by the look of my clothes - rather polluted. Nevertheless I can see why it's often heralded the Metropolis of the world. It's been a fun 9 days here with my family and I've loved it! Will be leaving tomorrow for France. A little sad, but not quite - will be back again on the 16th with Stephanie. Girl, if you're reading this, you gotta show me a good time ;)

The Highlands in Colour

2009-04-04T09:16:00.000-07:00

After rummaging through my luggage, it turns out that I did bring my memory card reader!

So in no particular order, some photographic highlights from my second Highlands trip:

1. Hamish, the Highland Cow: My first hairy cow upclose and personal! He's so swishy looking.

2. The Lowlands: I think this was taken somewhere around Stirling. The lowland landscape is gently undulating and full of rolling green hills. Picture perfect!

3. The Highlands: Past the Highland faultline and we're in a completely different country altogether.

The highlands are wild, untamed and dramatic. Breath-taking to behold even from inside an airconditioned coach.

But nothing's ever just 'pretty' in the highlands. It's deadly. Ben Nevis is just 1/8 the size of Mount Everest, but has claimed more lives.

I'm no mountaineer but I can say that stepping out of the coach itself can already kill the unsuspecting - it's Spring but the winds are still as crazy as ever! They can literally blow you off a cliff if you're not careful.

4. The Five Sisters: These 5 mountain peaks formed one of the most picturesque moments of our trip.

5. Eilean Donan Castle: Highlander was filmed here! It's a small castle but it looked stunning against the sunset.

6. Isle of Skye, Lealt Falls: I rest my case, Skye is looking fine. Took a familiar route, however made a detour to Lealt Falls which I hadn't been to the last time. Joined a group of English geologists and admired this great crashing waterfall.

7. The White Heather: Charming B&B in Kyleakin which we put up in for the night. Lovely view from our room!

8. Creelers Seafood Restaurant, Broadford, Isle of Skye: I had the most amazing scallops in this joint. Quiet, unassuming family-run business which will make your tastebuds go wild.
9. The Culloden Battlefield: Did I mention our guide was a Scot and hates the English with a passion? It's a no-brainer therefore that we ended up here.

The Culloden Battle was the beginning of the end of Highland culture. This is the field where the highland clans were slaughtered by the British army. There is an excellent museum on-site which contributes overall to an extremely poignant experience. Descendents of the ill-fated Highlanders still come here to mourn.

10. The Hermitage: Our final stop just before heading back to Edinburgh, and in many ways, the icing on the cake. The little hut-like structure on the left was a former opium-den. It's been converted into a gorgeous viewing gallery. Glass doors open up, offering a fantastic view of the waterfall below.

11. The Waterfall: Voila voila.

On the Road: The Highlands once more

2009-03-28T15:27:00.000-07:00

I'm currently in a delightful Bed and Breakfast outfit called The White Heather. It's close to sub-zero temperatures in Kyleakin, on the Isle of Skye but today was absolutely awesome! I'm mentally kicking myself for not bringing along my SD card reader because by the looks of it, I'm going to have a massive amount of pictures after my 3 week Easter break - 114 pictures today and I think that's modest compared to my dad who has amassed over a thousand images since Wednesday!

Am on a 3-day Scottish highlands tour with my family. The route covered by the tour bus is almost identical to the one I took about 3 weeks ago with my own friends, however, now that the snow has melted (somewhat), and the Spring colours are emerging, I'm discovering a vastly different landscape. It doesn't hurt that today was an absolutely gorgeous day contrary to the more wintry scenes we encountered the last time. Now it's all clear blue skies and bright sunshine - one of the rare 47 days in a year when the summit of Ben Nevis is actually visible!

I will get around to uploading photos once I have the chance to do so - but in the absence of images, I can only gush rather incoherently. Absolutely, absolutely breath-taking scenery. Simply s.p.e.c.t.a.c.u.l.a.r. I'm so glad I'm back here!!!

And dinner gets a special mention here. If you ever find yourself in the Isle of Skye, pop by Creeler's Restaurant in the town of Broadford for seafood. We had scallops, lobsters, monk fish and seafood gumbo - the food is orgasmic and is coupled by faultless service in a cosy and intimate setting. And best of all, the food served is made using fresh local produce from the Island itself! Yum.

Alright, will go bathe and get some rest. Tomorrow, we tour Skye and I can't wait! I just hope the forecast for 'liquid sunshine' doesn't actually materialize though :( Will keep my fingers crossed for good weather!

Spring Vacation

2009-03-27T02:35:00.000-07:00

Easter Break Vacation:

28th March - 31st March: In the Highlands with family

1st April - 9th April: London with family

10th April - 12th April: Paris

13th April - 16th April: Nice

16th April - 19th April: London with Stephanie!!!!

19th April - 22th April: Edinburgh

22th April - 24th April: Madrid

24th April - 27th April: Barcelona

27th April: Back again to Edinburgh for exams

When the fun Really begins

2009-03-26T04:46:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow is the last day of school.

My suitcase is open and ready to be packed.

I drop off my hostel keys by Saturday.

My parents arrived in Edinburgh yesterday (yay!)

And there are 9 weeks of holidays till the end of term (with 3 exams in between).

O.M.G Let the fun begin.

When Irish eyes are smiling: Dublin (230309 - 240309)

2009-03-25T16:38:00.000-07:00

Evening scene of the River Liffey

Dublin! What can I say?

It has it's lovely spots here and there as all destinations surely do if you look hard enough, but in general I was not impressed. Stone me for saying this, but as a short 2-day tourist destination, I seriously think Singapore would be more interesting.

Let's get the bad stuff out of the way so I don't dwell on it excessively and unnecessarily for the rest of the post. The weather was wintery in the thick of March. The city is horribly expensive (Normal cheese-and-ham sandwich for 4 euros. Minimum). There are some pretty buildings here and there, but the whole does not surpass its parts in general - unless you have an undying passion for bullet-ridden building facades. After oo-ing and aah-ing over the Millenium and Tyne Bridge in Newcastle, seeing the Liffey river and the ha'penny bridge was quite underwhelming. The main thoroughfare in Dublin, O'Connell Street, is nothing compared to its equivalents in Edinburgh, although I have to say the Millenium Spire was quite cool and worth a good long gape.

Sadly, the Dubliners whom I encountered on the streets were none too helpful, and were prone to push and shove, and ignore our questions regarding road directions. City-living perhaps; everyone looked like they were in a rush. Though thankfully the people who did matter, including the customs officer and tour guide, were friendly to the fault.

In terms of night-life, I suppose we picked a bad day going on a Monday/Tuesday but I did expect more people out and about after sunset, instead of the sparse crowds we encountered.

Now the good stuff. If you do go to Dublin, here's what I'd recommend you do, Jeanne-style!

1. Irish Dancing Night, Arlington Hotel

It's your own mini River Dance. I strongly recommend you head down to the Arlington Hotel at 10pm, whichever night you're in Dublin to catch the free Irish dancing. You can grab dinner here, or simply do what we did, which was to order a drink each and watch the show unfold.

I'm told by Felyna that the act isn't as professional as the original River Dance, but it should make an entertaining, half-hour slice of Irish culture :) Gotta give it up to the dancers - 30 solid minutes of feet-stomping, prancing, leaping and twirling! And all seemingly done without a sweat.

2. Chester Beatty Library, Dublin Castle

Entry into the Castle itself is 3.50 euros (student rate) - it's more of a stately house than a castle, and a very exquisitely funished one at that. However, the real gem within the grounds is the Chester Beatty library, named after a prolific (prolifically rich as well) book and manuscript collector who amassed an astounding amount of material. This collection includes the largest set of Qurans outside of the Middle East, fragments of the Pauline letters, and beautiful scrolls depicting scenes from Murasaki Shikibu's Tale of Genji.

Chester Beatty's amazing collection is housed within the Library, and is on display for free - I might add this is rare in Dublin where you pay through your nose for most things. This cultural treasure trove is definitely worth a look.

3. Beauty Spots: Trinity College campus and St Patrick's Cathedral

I want to be a student at Trinity after viewing the campus! You enter the gates, into a seriously gorgeous oasis of calm right smack in the middle of town. There are neatly manicured lawns dotted with the most beautiful selection of trees ever and elegant buildings including the pretty structure you see in the picture above, built specially to give the campus 'a touch of class.' As if it didn't already have enough!

Sadly the lawns are off-limits to everyone and you could be thrown out by security if you're found on it. So beautiful. So inaccessible. But it makes a good photo-op. And sometimes that's all that matters...in a sad, ironic way.

Another really pretty place is St Patrick's Cathedral. Specifically the gardens outside of St Pat's which are exquisite especially since the flowers are now in bloom.

Didn't manage to go into the Cathedral because of limited time, but I imagine it would be fairly nice as well!

4. Pub Grub: Beef and Guinness Stew

Trust me that after a cold, wet day, nothing beats sitting down to a pipping hot bowl of stew; and this Irish beef stew which I had in the Temple Bar area was absolutely amazing and homely. They don't skimp on the beef, which is incidentally very tender and juicy. Mmm. Treat yourself a little for a meal like this - so worth it.

Looking happy!

So in all, I'm glad I went to Ireland, and that I can say I've been to Ireland (and again, sometimes that's all that matters in a sad-ironic way). Nevertheless, I won't go back again and I wouldn't recommend it in gushing tones. If you have a choice, come to Edinburgh.

Back to the Rice Bowl

2009-03-22T11:34:00.000-07:00

Returning exhausted from Newcastle yesterday, I succumbed and decided to treat myself to my first Chinese meal in Scotland. I'd been tempted by the smell of Roasted duck when walking through Newcastle's Chinatown, and my Asian palate simply had to be satisfied.

Edinburgh doesn't have a Chinatown (not that I'm aware of), so I headed off for the next best thing - Kampong Ah Lee on Nicholson Street.

I swear for the past 4 weeks, this place has been calling out to me, with its bright red facde, and the newspaper clippings plastered proudly across the store front. The reviews did seem pretty promising, however sue me for saying this, but I'm dubious whenever I hear Western food writers who have never lived in the region praising Malaysian/Singaporean food as 'authentic.' Perhaps I'm a snob that way.

But in any case, my conversion started the minute I entered the humble premises of Kampong Ah Lee. Some surefire signs you're in good company? The clientale is Asian, the music is Jay Chou and the decoration is kitschy miniature Petronas Twin Towers. A bonus if general atmosphere is homely and unpretentious - loud talking, people using fingers to eat chicken wings etc.

The menu is quite extensive covering a whole gamut of dishes, including the usual suspects like Nasi Lemak, Laksa and Hor Fan. However, here I must express some regret that they also had Singaporean noodles on the menu. What on earth are these mysterious Singaporean noodles?? I saw them everywhere in New York's Chinatown but have yet to figure out what they are. Apparently some exotic concoction involving bee hoon, curry and other random spices, which can be found everywhere else except Singapore.

Price-wise, all dishes are about 6 pounds upward. It's definitely not cheap compared to their equivalents back home, but that's life abroad I suppose.

Because I had a craving for salted fish, I placed my order for the pork and salted fish rice dish with a young-ish Chinese waiter who spoke with a delightful Scottish accent, and then switched to Cantonese when behind the counter with his mother.

Sadly I didn't take a picture of the food because I was so hungry that I just tucked in the moment it arrived steaming hot on the table. However, for 5.80pounds you get a massive mound of Thai rice which is slightly disproportionate to the amount of meat and veg you get. But I'm not complaining - I finished practically all of it. In addition to pork and salted fish, the meal for some reason, was also accompanied by chicken and beef slices. The entire thing was garnished with sliced onions and green peppers, and rounded off with a generous topping of gravy.

It was in a word, shiok. I suppose it is hard to go wrong with pork, salted fish and rice, but in any case I enjoyed it. It wasn't fantastic but it was good enough to satisfy my craving for Asian food. The pork even had those fatty bits which are just mmmmmmmmmmmm....

Go when you get hit by that insatiable craving of good ol' home-cooked food! Throw in a bubble-tea as well for instance gratification.

The Weekly Round-up

2009-03-22T07:02:00.000-07:00

Expenses for 16th - 22nd March

Food and Bev: £10.75
Passport photos: £4
Laundry token: £1
Postage: £1.47

Total: £17.22

Trip to Newcastle (21st March 2009)

Return trainfare: £16.80
Angel Bus (return): £3.20
Busker donation: £1
Lunch: £0.79

Total: £21.79

Newcastle: MY Top Pick of the Week!

2009-03-21T14:21:00.000-07:00

I decided on a particularly dull Thursday afternoon to take a spontaneous day trip somewhere over the weekend. My only stipulations were that it had to be near, accessible and, in the favourite words of my Art History teacher, "cheap as chips." My decision was somewhat arbitrary - I looked at googlemaps and just chose the Northern-most English city, closest to Edinburgh which didn't sound boring or dangerous.

And so Newcastle it was!

Newcastle is just 1.5hrs away from Edinburgh, and you can get single tickets for as low as £5.60. I packed up chocolates and a very pixellated and low-resolution map which I had found online, and went to catch the 7.30am train out of Waverly station.

As the train approached Newcastle, I spied rows upon rows of uninspired looking maroon houses all with the same ugly chimeney fixture. My heart sank, and I thought 'Oh God, I've arrived in the heartlands of the Industrial Revolution.'

But thankfully, in this case, my first impressions were almost immediately squashed. Gone are the greasy shipyards and grimy factories belching smoke - the once declining industrial town has undergone a cultural renaissance, and Newcastle has emerged feverishly H.I.P.!

Newcastle has a little bit of everything. Grainger Town, the historic heart of Newcastle, is full of regal old-world buildings. It also houses Grey Street, which was apparently voted by Radio Four listeners as their favourite street in England.

It's certainly very elegant, flanked on either side by stately looking architecture, leading up a gentle curve to the imposing Grey Monument, commemorating Charles Grey, the second Earl Grey - yes, the tea is named after him!

Crowds gathered at the base of Grey Monument listening to a guy with pink hair championing a Socialist Revolution

And once you've had your taste of old-world charm, go soak up the breezy, ultra-stylish vibe that positively throbs through the Quayside. It's an amazing place!

I cannot stress it enough, Newcastle makes a fantastic citybreak within the UK. Perhaps The Times wasn't too off the mark when it described Newcastle as the 'New Capital of Britain.' It's got everything I imagine a topclass city would have. Here were some of the highlights of my day:

1. Zipping through the Bridges along the Quayside

My absolute favourite part of the day. You must go to the Quayside and stroll along the banks of the River Tyne. Check out the public art on either side of the River; best of all, stand and admire the renowned bridges which dot the River Tyne.

There's the Tyne Bridge:

And of course, the quintessential symbol of the new Newcastle...the Gateshead Millenium Bridge!

It's supposed to look like a giant eyelid apparently. An interesting piece of architecture to marvel at! Walk along the bridge to get excellent views of the city and the River Tyne.

2. Walking around Grainger Town: Grey Street, and the Grey Monument

Mentioned above already. It was the street I used to orientate myself when in Newcastle. The tourist information point also lies somewhere off Grey Street, through this lovely Central Arcade:

If only shopping centers were all this beautiful!

3. Art Venues

There's no doubt about it - Newcastle's cultural scene is exploding. There are a vast array of art galleries, most of which are FREE which is excellent. When at the Quayside, I sampled the BALTIC Gallery which houses a rotating collection of modern art, and popped into the Sage Gatehead - a premier venue for musical performances.
The Sage Gateshead complex

Check out the Sage even if you aren't attending a concert there. It's an intriguing structure, characterized by curves, glass and stainless steel. The interior is as impressive as the outside, with a large concourse offering a good view of the River Tyne. It's not a conventionally pretty building, but I think in this day and age, structures with the ability to surprise, shock and provoke discourse/thought are way more interesting that those which simply look "nice." Art should not provoke a bland, monolithic response - it should challenge!

(I like the Scottish Parliament building for the same reason, even though it's been decried by some as a blight on the landscape haha.)

Make the BALTIC gallery a must-see on your trip to Newcastle. Even if you can't appreciate modern art, head up to the 5th floor viewing gallery of this converted flour mill to get excellent views of the Quayside. The exhibits constantly rotate, so you'll always be in for a surprise when you visit. When I went, there was a themed exhibition about 'Conflict and Peace.' Very interesting pieces there, which included several cinematic works. I also really liked the gallery's eco-friendly policies - they encourage you to return exhibit brochures and leaflets to the counter, where they are then reissued to new visitors to save on paper. The ecowarrior in me approves wholeheartedly!

4. The Angel of the North

The Angel of the North stands, a faceless sentinel over the adjacent freeway, silently overlooking the scores of vehicles which trickle into the nearby Gateshead.

You have to head about 20 minutes out of the Newcastle City center to see this, but I really recommend it. Not for nothing is the Angel of the North deemed one of the 'Icons' of England. Its an immense piece of public art/sculpture with an inherent 'wow' factor due to its sheer size.

The width of the Angel's wings make it wider than the Statue of Liberty is tall. Truly impressive. Worth the detour and 3.20pound return bus fare!

5. Away from the Maddening Crowd

If the shopping crowds along Northumberland Street start to make you edgy, skip on down to Blackfriars, a literal oasis of calm in the middle of the city.

It's not really a park or garden, but a little courtyard bound by the walls of an old monastic building. It's a really tranquil spot if you want to escape from the hubbub of the city. Even the neighbourhood it's situated in is remarkably peaceful.

This is just a sampling of what Newcastle has to offer - there's really quite a bit you could do and see, and practically all the attractions are free! It's an amazing city...it tired me out, but all the same, I really loved it!

Verdict: Newcastle sizzles. And not just for Newcastle UFC fans. You really must go if you can, especially if you're keen on culture and the arts. Go, go, go!

At the Post-office

2009-03-20T10:30:00.000-07:00

Went to the post-office today with Felyna to obtain some Euros for our trip to Dublin. The exchange rate was almost 1 to 1; 1 Euro to 0.994 of a Pound.

"It's the worst the pound's ever been," said the lady who grimly slid 60 euros toward me.

I feel guilty about saying this, but I pick a good time to come to the UK on exchange.

Weather Update

2009-03-20T10:13:00.000-07:00

I think I can say with some confidence, that Spring is in the air!

Weather in the past 3 days has been wonderful. It is finally sunny, and the BBC is finally reporting more consistent double-digit temperatures (in celsius).

One final testament to the change in seasons: people have ventured out into public parks simply to lie on the grass and soak up the sun.

Yay!

The Bi-weekly Roundup

2009-03-17T14:12:00.000-07:00

Expenses from 2nd - 15th March

Food and Bev: £19.34

Phone top-up card: £10

Recreation and entertainment
Clubbing at Lulu's: £8
The Stand entry: £4

Total: £41.34

Trip to York

Train fare: £24.10
York Minster entry: £7
Food and Bev: £7.36

Total: £38.46

Highlands Trip

Car and gas: £75 (pending...)
Attractions: £20.68
Food and Bev: £7.60

Total: £103.28

Daytrip in York!

2009-03-15T11:07:00.000-07:00

Remnants of the old Roman walls encircle cobble-stone streets, as fleets of cars whiz by. Somewhere, the sounds of a riotous street percussion performance blend with the mournful toll of York Minster's mid-day bells. Endless rows of breezy fashion outlets line the cramped medieval lanes, punctuated occassionally by quaint, old-world tea rooms.

Welcome to York, where the past and present collapse into each other in charming fashion!

York is a 2.5 hour train ride away from Edinburgh. It's a small city - the streets invariably lead back to each other and you get the distinct sense of deja vu after about an hour's worth of walking/ sight-seeing. However its thankfully not a small and sleepy city like Dunfermline, which would have been very maddening. I went on a Saturday when the streets were positively thronging with people. The place has a good vibe to it - it's bustling, but at the same time, it's not stressful. The roads in the city centre have restricted vehicle access so everyone just mills around the roads in a care-free fashion.

I loved the sounds of the city. When I was there, I was treated to a loud outdoor performance in an open square, as revellers bounded by in a snaking congo line. Then I escaped the madness momentarily by ducking into a nearby church which offered almost unearthly quiet and sanctuary. You'll see lots of old churches in York.

So some highlights!

1. Ditch the Map

The mark of any self-respecting tourist destination: good signage. And if York is anything, it is touristy. This can be good and bad. Well, on the good side, these little sign posts are everywhere in the city - you can't turn around a corner without having your destination flagged prominently for you. It helps also that the city's fairly compact and easy to navigate.

So if you're up for it, leave those maps at home. You can wander around the side streets comfortably lost, and emerge on a main trunk road fairly sure you'll be pointed somewhere familiar.

Alternatively, when you've stepped off your train, head straight to the visitor centre which is within the station itself, and pick up your free mini guide and map of the city!

2. York Minster

Some say this is the raison d'etre to visit York. The largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe, I have to say York Minster really holds its own against its illustrous counterparts in Italy.

View of York Minster from the front

An on-going service inside the Minster

The entire complex consists of the Minster itself, the Undercroft and the Tower. You can purchase a variety of entry tickets depending on which combination of attractions you want to visit. I chose the 'Minster Plus' which allowed access into both the Minster and the Undercroft. My advice - skip the Undercroft unless you really want to see a random collection of Roman artefacts. It's not that exciting. If you're up for it, choose the Minster and the Tower combination - although note, you have to climb about 200 over steps to reach the top of the Tower!

The Minster itself however, is gorgeous. The stained glass windows are first-class - all 128 of them. Unfortunately the famous Great East Window is currently under restoration. You can, however, see a full-size graphic of the window hanging over its original location. Whilst its a poor replacement, it gives you a sense of the window's immense scale and breath-taking detail - fitting, given how it is after all, the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world.

A tip - bring along binoculars to take a closer look at the stained glass. There are rather hilarious irregularities. The Virgin Mary as depicted on the Five Sisters Window, supposedly has a beard! Possibly a restorationist or cleaner accidently damaged a panel, and decided to replace Mary's face with a man's hoping no one would notice! Similarly, a medallion on the roof depicts Mary feeding the infant Jesus with a milk bottle! The early Victorians who cleaned up the Minster felt the original image of the breast-feeding Virgin was scandalous and decided to make it more palatable. Hence the inclusion of the rather amusing bottle.

The Five sisters window, which was completed in 1260.

3. York for nothing

If you're planning to visit all the major attractions in York, be prepared to spend. Not much is cheap. I think Edinburgh's amazing collection of free museums and galleries made me rather adverse to paying a 7 pound admission fee for similar institutions in York. Nevertheless, there are things you can do in York for absolute nothing!

I highly recommend going to the Museum Gardens, which is a lovely patch of green just five or ten minutes away from York Minster. Here, you can feed the pigeons and watch ducks waddle contently along the slow, placid banks of the River Ouse.

On site, you can also see some artistic ruins, including Saint Leonard's Hospital - once the largest and most important medieval hospital in Northern England. All that's left of it are the crumbling remains of the chapel, and the crypt. There's also the Multangular tower which forms part of the famed city walls.

The best part of the Gardens for me however was glimpsing Saint Mary's Abbey, one of the most influential Benedictine abbeys in Northern England during the 11th-century. Like the hospital, it lies in ruins but particularly pretty ruins I must say!

I adore the pointed arches and the honey-coloured facade. And I love how it just seems to rise organically in the middle of, well, nowhere. Definitely worth a look-see.

While on the subject of parks and gardens, something else I'd recommend is walking along the nearby River Ouse - if only because I like water!

If you're up for paying a little more, hire a YorkBoat and take an evening cruise up the Ouse. I'm sure it'll be delightful :)

And finally, my last suggestion for York on a shoestring: Definitely definitely definitely do a walk around the city walls. These are seriously ancient walls dating back to the Roman era - possibly the best preserved stretch in England. Just run your hands across them and feel the history wash over you. Peer through the cross-shaped archer's slits which now look out at modern roads and red-bricked residences, and have a quick poke around the 'bars' - the main gatehouses which restricted entry into the city. You could do the entire perimeter of the city just by walking around these walls, and it doesn't cost a thing.

4. Walk the Streets, Splurge at Betty's

Check out the winding medieval streets of York, including The Shambles, which was actually mentioned in the Domesday book. It's a fairly short street, with overhanging timber roofs that lean so close together, they're just barely an arm's length apart.

There are plenty of shops along this side of town, including the invariable touristy ones which push souvenirs. Just a little further, at St Helen's square, lies one of the biggest tourist draws - the venerable Betty's Cafe.

The queue outside Betty's. It continues outside the frame.

Store front of Betty's. Who can resist?

I ignored the online review which bemoaned Betty's as "death's waiting room," compared to the livelier pubs down the stretch. I'm in York damnit - I want the quintessential English experience of sipping tea off dainty saucers, in a cosy tea room! Nevermind if that's the favourite past-time of over-60s. Unfortunately, the queue outside Betty's was far longer than I was willing to wait. So I skipped down to the nearby Stonegate, to patronize it's sister establishment...Little Betty's.

You'll enter a small little shop on the first floor which sells a delectable assortment of chocolates, cakes and biscuits, in addition to a wide range of teas. It's fun just browsing even if you're not intending to head up to the cafe on the second floor.

There was a short queue for Little Betty's but thankfully of a more reasonable length than the one of St Helen's square. Was ushered by a waitress to a little round table in the corner, and shown the rather pricey menu. Having already had my lunch, I just ordered a pot of Ceylon Blue Sapphire tea and a Lemon and Lime Sponge cake. Voila voila.

Ever given pretend tea-parties when you were young? Relive those childhood fantasies for real here. The set-up is utterly quaint and cute! Betty's is the place which makes you sit up a little straighter and take dainty sips out of your tea cup. You almost have to resist the urge to say in a posh British accent if you'd like "one lump or two." The tea, by the way, was pretty good and came with a whole little saucer of honey, and an extra pot of hot water for refills - great if you can drink like a camel. The sponge, whilst small (and hence expensive) was lovely, with an excellent zesty tinge.

It's an old-world establishment - an image which it strives quite consciously to maintain I suppose. The place is popular as I've already hinted - this also means that the staff are busy and rather frazzled-looking. You do get the feeling sometimes of being rushed a little through the experience - though to their credit, the staff are generally friendly and welcoming. But oh well, who said you could have everything.

Go if you're willing to spend and wait a little. But I think you should go. It wouldn't be a trip to York without some good tea with honey, even if it is completely predictable and old-fashioned. But who cares haha.

Alright, I've exhausted my blogging session for the day. I would end this post on a bit more polished note but I do need to run. So apologies for the abruptness but see you world!

Pre-departure

2009-03-13T16:04:00.000-07:00

I'm leaving for York tomorrow morning! And for reasons which I can't remember, I chose the earliest train departing from Edinburgh, which means I need to get myself to bed NOW.

G'night world!

The Highlands (Day 3)

2009-03-11T03:26:00.001-07:00

I have to say that this day was generally uneventful compared to the previous two. However it was certainly insightful as it taught me the true extent of just how erratic the weather in Scotland is - as if I hadn't already gotten a hint of that in the past 9 weeks!

Behold our first view of Urquhart Castle and the Loch Ness at 9.15am on 8th March.

Horrible horrible weather. It was the first time I've experienced hail in Scotland. The castle looked like a very sad fortress in a giant churning vat of tar.

Because of the rather violent weather, we waited 10 minutes in the car for the visitor centre to open at 9.30am. After that short interval of 15 minutes, we emerged from our cars and revisited Urquhart castle and the Loch at the exact same photo point. And look how it had changed:

The hail had gratefully let up. Sunlight peeked out from behind the clouds and washed over Urquhart castle, which now stood prettily poised for that perfect postcard shot! And the Loch itself - if there really is a monster living beneath its depths, I understand why. It makes a beautiful home with its sparkling deep-blue waters which just seem to stretch out forever into the horizon.

We could've stayed longer in the carpark taking shots of Urquhart and the Loch from afar. But eventually we went into the visitor centre, paid our 6 pound fee which got us admission inside the castle itself.

This is a place designed specifically for tourists in mind, you can be sure of that. The gift shop is the first place you're led into. It is stocked with every imaginable thing including shocking pink Urquhart lollipops, picture books dedicated to Highland Cows and tapestries depicting fair maidens and chivalric knights. While inside the marvellously-stocked shop, we were led into a miniature theatrette where we enjoyed a polished 8-minute film, styled as a 'historical re-enactment' of the Castle's checkered past. At the end of the film, the screen rolled up slowly in the still-darkened theatrette. This was followed by what must be the most predictable move ever designed for impact: the curtains behind the screen dramatically pulled themselves apart with flourish revealing...Urquhart Castle itself in the distance!

It's really quite tacky and groan-inducing, but I must say the castle did look quite splendid from inside the theatrette, basking rather smugly in the sun.

The management of the Castle must have some formidable 'weather' button to ensure tourists get the best possible views of Urquhart when those curtains part. Because just as we entered the castle itself to poke around, the glorious sun vanished and was replaced by slushy snow and howling gusts of winds. What a drastic turnaround! Spent a wet, teeth-chattering one hour walking around the castle grounds before being beaten back into the gift shop. And just 5 minutes after we entered the warmth of the adjoining cafeteria, the sun came out again just as a new wave of tourists filtered out from the theatrette. Coincidence? I think not!

Anyway, back to Urquhart Castle itself. Perhaps the term castle is a misnomer. It should really be called Urquhart ruins because the original castle was more or less blown up by its own inhabitants several centuries back - a useful nugget of information from the 8 minute film!

The ruins themselves are about as exciting as ruins can get I suppose. There are spots signposted as former chambers or chapels which are literally just foundational stones, which gaze up vacuously into the sky because there's no longer any ceiling. You can get some nice views of the Loch up-and-close by climbing up this former gate tower in Urquhart (at least I think it was a tower), but the castle/ruins itself is nothing that big to shout about. It's the kind of place you'd go to simply because its right on the banks of the Loch Ness, and signposted as an 'attraction' in its own right.

View of the Ness from the tower

After Urquhart, we headed up toward Inverness the capital of the highlands! It's a rather non-descript looking city and we more or less drove past it en route to the Cairngorms national park, our next would-be-attraction for the day. I say that because we once again experienced the temperamental power of Highland weather there. The park was blanketed in snow which continued to fall thick and fast. So much for the rich, green landscape featured in Martin's guidebook - we got a blinding white deal even on the cusp of Spring! I didn't take any pictures because i) we didn't want to leave the car except for a mad dash to the nearest cafe for hot chocolate and warm spiced wine and ii) there wasn't all that much to take pictures of anyway except for snow-capped ski mountains which I already had my fill of on the first day. A bit of a disappointment! But that's life for you.

So after a quick drive around the Cairngorms and getting our tyres stuck in the snow more than once, we made a hasty exit home-bound, with several stops and snow fights along the way. We stopped briefly in Perth along the way to look for dinner.

I mention Perth only to give a word of advice: never go there on a Sunday night. Or perhaps, never go to Perth at all. It was literally a ghost town when we went. The kind of street scene you expect after an army of zombies have invaded and infected everyone. Nothing was open at 5.30pm except Pizza Hut, and to cap it off, there were a couple of yobbish-looking people who extorted a grand total of 1 quid from one of us.

Given the slim pickings at Perth, we headed back to Edinburgh for our posh dinner. Found ourselves at the All Bar One on George Street, which proved much more satisfactory and happifying. It was so good to finally get some warm food!

Thus we ended our Highlands trip over a hearty meal and a bottle of white wine. Cheers to us for making it that far! I couldn't have asked for a better road trip (except for the weather I guess).

The Highlands (Day 2)

2009-03-09T16:39:00.001-07:00

I'm going to break out of my attempt to be objective and say that the Isle of Skye was absolutely amazing. In terms of the natural landscape, it is breath-taking and unsurpassed by anything else I have ever seen.

On the flipside, the weather is horribly erratic. The guidebooks weren't lying when they said Skye is the place you can experience all four seasons in just one day. We encountered an extremely disappointing start to the second day of our highlands trip, as Skye greeted us with lashing winds and torrential rainfall. However, the sun miraculously came out by mid-day and dispelled the clouds. The pervasive mist parted and we were treated to some of the most stunning scenery ever.

1. The Quiraing

A series of rock slips, containing rather bizarre land formations - welcome to The Quiraing. We had originally wanted to hike around this area, however, the rain and the wind kind of ruined this for us. Nevertheless, we managed to drive uphill - I'm not exactly sure where though. We got out of the car braving some of the scariest winds I have ever encountered in Scotland and clambered to the edge of the plateau we were on to get a sight of what lay below us.

You'd think that photography offers a straight-forward snapshot of life, but it really doesn't (well maybe just my camera). The frustrating thing is that it can never fully capture reality, but only proffer a hazy suggestion of what it is - quite literally here, as the pictures are quite foggy.

But in any case, that's my point - only a suggestion or glimmer of reality. And I suppose the same thing applies for language and art. There are natural limits to expression and representation, and I find that even more salient now as I try to describe the scene from The Quiraing. Someone jokingly remarked that it reminded her of The Land before Time. A humourous comparison certainly, but true on so many levels. It was an almost primordial, transcendental landscape we'd chanced upon. Save for the wind and the rain, there was also a remarkable and yawning quiet in the air which seemed to just go on for miles and miles. It seemed like nothing could have dared interrupted it. The scene was majestic and just utterly grand. There are no other words for it.

2. Faerie Glen

Faerie Glen lies somewhere off the village of Uig. If The Quiraing is commanding and almost regal, then Faerie Glen is its absolutely charming and dare I say, cute sibling. The rain had stopped by the time we reached the Glen, so we took the opportunity to stretch our legs and go for a little hike up the numerous, conical hills which dot the Glen landscape. The Glen offered a pretty easy walk - it wasn't as flat as the online guides claimed, but it was certainly manageable and very enjoyable. This is coming from someone who usually does not like hiking and most physical activity! But I was literally hopping from place to place in Faery Glen, and scrambling to get over the next hill...and the next...and the next...

Good times. Slipped quite a bit in the mud, and ended up with a sore arm the next morning (while breaking my fall). But for this, I'd say worth 10 slips in the mud and torn jeans - which incidentally, one in our party suffered. Again I stress with some hints of regret: come to Scotland with good, sturdy shoes, and then pray for dry weather.

3.The Old Man of Storr

From Faerie Glen, we doubled back to Staffin and headed down toward the direction of Portree to catch a glimpse of this famous rock pinnacle. Something worth mentioning along the way was the beautiful Staffin Bay. I hadn't expected it to look so lovely but it did. Sadly didn't get my camera out on time, and it was obscured by roadside trees in a matter of seconds, but definitely an image that will stay with me for some time.

A picture of The Storr, a series of rocky hills, as taken from inside the car. The Old man of Storr is the sharp-ish looking outcrop on the extreme right of the picture!

We parked and walked through a forest path to get to the base of the Storr. The forest was really pretty. It is exactly the kind of forest you'd imagine an Enid Blyton story would be set in. Perhaps I ought to thank the rain, because it left the forest with a very enchanting and misty quality; I almost expected wood nymphs to pop up someplace!

For the hiking-averse, you'll be pleased to know that the Storr forest is extremely user-friendly. The path is broad and very clearly defined. It's also pretty flat, and easy to walk. Once you exit the forest however, its an ascending path all the way up to the Old Man of Storr, with several loose rocks littering the way. Again, sturdy shoes are paramount.

Vertigo hit me halfway up the climb, so I stopped and took a rest while the others went up. Enjoyed really really nice views of the forest and rocky path down below, and the sea just beyond. Like the scene at the Quiraing, it was shot through with an almost unnatural stillness and calm. The sun was out by this time, so it was quite comfortable just sitting there enjoying the view.

Eventually descended. We packed back into the car and headed off for our accommodation in Broadford.

Technically the end of our 'day,' however I must make special mention of the Broadford Youth Hostel - IT WAS A MARVELOUS EXPERIENCE. There was WARM water, a spacious and clean kitchen, a reception which was open up till 10.30pm, a comfy lounge with squashy arm chairs and clean beds with no lumps. And the thing I was most impressed by was the DOUBLE CURTAIN PARTITIONING in the shower stalls! That means our clothes and bath towel were protected and kept dry while we showered! Also, even though we were not there long enough to enjoy it, the hostel was set just by the coast with nice views of the sea. I highly recommend this place to anyone stopping by the Trotternish peninsula in the Isle of Skye. Do not underestimate the difference of a good and comfortable hostel with regular heating!

The Highlands (Day 1)

2009-03-09T14:54:00.001-07:00

Blogging about my Highlands trip in retrospect is pretty hard, because I have to suppress the urge to gush about it in rather sentimentalized terms, whilst utilizing alarming-looking CAPITAL LETTERS WITH NO BREAKS AND EXCITED PUNCTUATION!!!!! However I shall try going about this chronologically so I don't miss anything out, and yes, as a historian-in-the-making I always endeavour to be as truthful and objective as possible.

So here goes - March 6 2009, Day 1 of my Highlands trip!

Driving past:

The Falkirk Wheel - Stirling - Loch Lomond in the Trossachs - Glen Coe

So after a slight delay when picking up the cars in the morning, we set off from Edinburgh about an hour later than projected. Nevertheless, hail the GPS system we had decided to rent. It got us to our first destination without frustrating detours and aimless wandering, and served us exceedingly well over the next 3 days. When in doubt, always always always get the GPS.

1. Falkirk Wheel

Our first stop for the day.

Now, I know I said that I would try to be truthful, but everyone knows that complete objectivity is impossible. Nevertheless, I'll do the next best thing and alert you to my personal biases and prejudices so you know where I'm coming from. I am an Arts student interested in pretty landscapes, casual walks, galleries and cultural monuments. I went along to the Falkirk wheel after having heard inspired comments like "marvel of Scottish engineering," and "you will just go there and stare at it in awe." So I went expecting to nothing short of floored.

This is the Falkirk wheel. It is a rotating boat lift. The most objective assessment I can give in a word is: Yawn. I'd recommend it only if you're an engineer, or it's along the way. And if you go, don't linger.

To counter this rather bland appraisal, I should say that some of my friends thought the wheel was very interesting and 'cool.' I suppose it is indeed an engineering feat though I'm not sure how exactly to appreciate it. So there you go - two sides of the story. Decide for yourself.

2. Stirling Castle, Stirling

Now this is something worth going for. Make the drive uphill to Stirling castle. You'll be greeted by a statue of Robert the Bruce, one of Scotland's most famous kings on the castle esplanade. The castle is not as big as Edinburgh castle, and parts of it are sadly under renovation and will continue to be for quite some time. Nevertheless, go if only for the magnificent panaromic landscape you'll enjoy from the castle rock. Unlike the busy cityscape you spy from Edinburgh castle, Stirling offers much more greenery and large expanses of countrified scenes. Admittedly not as breath-taking compared to other sights later on in my trip (won't jump the gun here!), but very pleasing and relaxing.

Other than the awesome views, there are lots of little nooks and crannies within the castle which you can check out. My favourite was the Chapel simply because it looked warm, inviting and was bedecked with lovely wall tapestries.

I wish we could've spent more time in Stirling, but we had to leave after an hour to make it in time for our next destination...

3. Tarbet, Loch Lomond

Would have easily been the highlight of the day if not for the weather. You might have discerned this already from the picture, but we were unfortunate enough to pick an overcast day for our cruise down Loch Lomond, supposedly one of the most beautiful lochs in Scotland.

But clouds and drizzle aside, it's definitely possible to see why Loch Lomond is said to surpass even its more well-known sister, the Loch Ness. The loch is ringed by picturesque hills clothed in a canopy of trees - a scene I imagine would look strikingly vivid on a sunny day, with bursts of colour along the banks, and patches of golden sunlight illuminating the waters of the Loch.

As it was however, the weather put quite a damper on our plans. The Loch was misty and the grey colour of iron when we sailed through it. Nevertheless, definitely glad to have gone on the cruise. We got a dimmed version of the Loch's beauty, but it was pretty nevertheless. The weather actually gave it a rather enigmatic and picturesque cast. I'd go back again if I could and watch the sun rise over the Loch.

4. En Route to Glen Coe

Headed off to our accommodation in Glen coe - Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban was filmed around this area though I don't think we passed through the exact site where Harry, Ron and Hermione gallavanted.

The landscape we drove through was absolutely surreal. There were wild, precipitous mountains, capped in layers of pure white snow. At some points I felt I was passing through an unearthly moonscape. We didn't exactly get out to look around since it was obviously very cold, but driving through this other-worldly space was definitely a memorable part of the first day for me. Now that's the kind of thing that really makes you stop and stare in awe. Sadly I only managed to take pictures from inside the car while we were moving - they really do not capture the vast, almost deathly beauty of the mountains.

An awesome conclusion to our Friday drive. We spent the night at the Glen Coe Independent Hostel which is located in the very small, sleepy town of - you guessed it - Glen coe. I frankly don't have much to say about the place except that it was cold and the showers didn't come with hot water. However I slept extremely soundly helped no doubt by the celebratory beer we had for dinner that night - a fitting and bubbly end to our first eventful day, and a toast to the days ahead.

The Highlands Call...

2009-03-05T23:14:00.000-08:00

I am leaving for the Scottish highlands in exactly an hour's time! I can't wait!

Will be back on Sunday night so catch you all then :)

In the meantime, have a great weekend y'all!

A Night of Laughter at The Stand

2009-03-05T12:17:00.000-08:00

Was greatly entertained last night at The Stand, on York Street. For 4 pounds, I entered a cosy and unpretentious lair where I enjoyed 2 hours worth of solid comedy. And I'm talking about the kind that induces serious damage in the form of side-splitting and jaw-aching laughter. It was really good and I honestly wished it could have gone on longer!

The acts rotate every night, but last night's performance saw a group of actors performing a series of short sketches one after another. I loved the hysterically improbable scenarios enacted onstage. Some gems included,

Gary, the smallest paedophile in the world ("Ah Teacher we meet again...on the battlefield of the age of consent!")

The murderous mother who feeds her son the evidence of her crimes - literally. ("Mum?! Is that a corpse in my sandwich??" ... "Oh no dear, that's a panini.")

The sanctimonious radio programme for home-schooled Scottish children ("Children, we're going to learn about Love today and its opposite - Gonorrhea.")

The nostalgic local who believes 'nothing ever changes' in his home town ("Jesus Christ, you knocked over a kid!!" ..."Oh no, there's always been a dead kid on this part of the road...")

And the Cow and Farmer who are embroiled in a highly unusual business transaction ("Farmer, I have come to collect on my debt. This debt of milk must be paid in human semen.")

Absolutely fantastic. I'd highly recommend this to anyone who isn't offended by the occasional (okay, quite frequent) dirty, nudge-wink kind of joke. It's so worth your money and time. Just be sure to go early so you can grab seats.

Verdict: GO FOR IT.

Down the Closes

2009-03-04T17:12:00.001-08:00

A random activity anyone can do in Edinburgh.

Place yourself anywhere along the Royal Mile.

Look around you.

Now look closer.

For some strange reason, I'm reminded of how J.K. Rowling described Harry Potter's first encounter of the Leaky Cauldron. 'Slide' is the word she used, and how appropriate it is. Your eyes are indeed tempted to slide between the loud and fancy storefronts, ignoring the non-descript pub in between. But it's there nevertheless - a quiet, unassuming portal to another world.

These narrow, little alleyways are leftovers of the Royal Mile's medieval past. They are literally everywhere on the Royal Mile, sandwiched in between various tartan and souvenier shops. They are generally overlooked by busy pedestrians and tourists headed for more photogenic sights at Edinburgh Castle or the Holyroodplace Palace. But they are there nevertheless, silent archways suspended in time. And every now and then, someone abruptly turns and vanishes into them.

In a bid to satisfy my curiousity, I decided to take a few turns myself down the closes on Monday afternoon. No close leads to the same place, but most of the ones I took transported me into tranquil courtyards and peaceful residential areas - all rather different worlds from the busy trunk street I had just exited.

I won't lie and promise that you'll find anything special or particularly exciting. But the point is not to go with expectations. Rather, relish the sense of the unknown as you roam down the winding and claustrophobic lanes. Realize with a start, that you're walking down roads taken by people 500 years ago and which are literally soaked in history. Ponder on some of the more enigmatic names you'll see - what exactly went on at Fleshmarket's Close? Did the world really seem to end at the World's End Close? Who was 'Dunbar' and why did he have a Close named after him?

Above all, just embrace the feeling of being happily lost. Suspend the need to follow any clear route, and abandon attempts to find yourself on a map - you'll probably search in vain anyway.

And if you're lucky, you just might find yourself somewhere special when you emerge into the light. If you're not, that's fine. You can still take a chance on the next lane which presents itself to you :)